Night + Market now has three LA locations: WeHo, in West Hollywood, Song, in Silver Lake, and Sahm, in Venice Beach. Each is a loud, riotously colorful evocation of dining in a Thai neighborhood joint. Kris Yenbamroong’s menu is devoted to northern Thai dishes, like pork toro with jaew, a northern Thai chile dip, or drunken noodles strewn with ribbons of pastrami from Langer’s (a local institution). Sarah Yenbamroong manages a small but lively selection of natural-leaning wines, such as Louis-Antoine Luyt’s Chilean blend, Cuvée Benoît. She also goes big on magnums, with at least a dozen available at each restaurant.