Mozzaplex is the favored catch-all term for three adjacent restaurants run by Nancy Silverton. While they all have differing wine and food menus, Silverton’s assured hand runs through all three, perfecting the pizza dough, kneading the mozzarella into myriad menu variations and overseeing wood-fire grilling at Chi Spacca, a temple to grilled meats. Sarah Clarke has authored the wine programs for the group since 2015. Then, they were groundbreaking lists in LA for their rigor, depth and utter fidelity to traditional Italian wine (and little else, beyond Champagne). Today, they are the standard for every Italian wine program in the city.