If République is pan-Angeleno, Maude is, in a sense, its opposite, a tiny, cozy, 26-seat Beverly Hills jewel box manned by Aussie Curtis Stone, who happens to be Top Chef’s current emcee. Celebrity chefs bring with them an expectation of swank and glamour, whether in their modish interiors or their ornamental platings, but you get neither here: The feel inside is like a living room with tables, tranquil and intimate; the service comes o with an ease and grace that will make you forget that you had any expectations at all. Each month Stone executes a themed seasonal tasting menu: November was given over to truffles, simply rendered compositions like scallop crudo on tru e “soil” or a hen’s egg cradled in brioche and creamed leeks and veiled in Alba tru e shavings. Ben Aviram and Kamden Watson collaborate on a distinctively classical wine list, drawing from all over the world (including selections from Stone’s home country, like Jamsheed’s ethereal Garden Gully Syrah); course pairings often come from the Coravin, featuring older vintages of wines like Barolo from Bussia Soprana and Chambolle from Leroux.

Ocean trout crudo

Restaurant Info

212 S. Beverly Dr., Beverly Hills, Los Angeles, California

New American


This review appears in the print edtion of the February 2015 issue.
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