With his brother Mario, Sal Marino reinhabits the Hollywood ristorante he grew up in, under the wing of his father, Ciro. Sal prepares pristine seasonal Italian dishes and oversees an eclectic, deeply personal wine program especially strong in Barolo and Chianti. It’s the sort of list where you may veer in an unintended direction when you see the number of goldkapsel rieslings he’s acquired, or the bottles of Heitz Martha’s Cabernet reaching back to 1984. Reserve during tomato season, when Sal’s garden provides much of the produce.

This review appears in the print edtion of the April 2019 issue.
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