The Conductor’s Building, a standalone sliver of brick off Harvard Square, was the 1912 headquarters for the Boston Elevated Railway. When Les Sablons opened in the building, sommelier Lauren Daddona designed a wine list around what was in fashion when the structure was built. It’s a bucket list of wines from Bordeaux, Burgundy and Germany, like Haut-Brion, and Barth Rheingau rieslings. They play well with chef Jeremy Sewall’s continental cuisine, like the crisp potato pancake topped with a generous scoop of caviar. Downstairs, Daddona takes a more playful approach at the bar, where she might pair the raw bar selections with a delicate Morphos sparkling wine from Maine’s Oyster River Winegrowers.