From the team behind The Catbird Seat comes Le Sel. With a black penny-tiled bar and salmon-colored banquettes, French hiphop flowing through the speakers and neon in the artwork, it’s a playful and uniquely Nashville take on a French restaurant. Chef Rene De Leon worked at Chicago’s Next and Alinea before coming south, bringing the laser-like attention he applied to cooking in Chicago, leaving behind the tiny plates and tasting menus. His dishes are anything but precious—the tartare is made from lamb laced with Dijon and topped with a raw egg, and bouillabaisse gets a spicy hit from fermented chili paste. Sommelier Tim Rawding, late of Bar Boulud and Boulud Sud in NYC, has compiled one of the strongest collections of French wine in town, from unusual selections like Domaine de la Fruitière’s Chardonnay, grown in Muscadet, to classic Domaine Leflaive Burgundies. His taste for high-acid wines is borderless, however, extending to Greece, Slovenia and Austria for other compelling choices.