A richly textured sparkler from Maine, skin-contact fiano, savory spätburgunder rosé, or chuggable pipeño: The entire list at Hemlock is under $100 and spans the globe with natural producers from Czech Republic, Slovakia, Australia and Spain, and with French, German and American bottles competing for the most real estate. Sit at the bar where you can watch the chefs work on dishes like the fluke crudo with kaffir lime oil. As far as the sweet potato bread that’s been warmed in the oven, torn into hunks and served with a smear of burnt pumpkin-leaf butter—order it. You’ll thank me later. They make kale cool again with their grilled rendition, and the desserts are epic: Try the bay-leaf ice cream with fresh cranberries and cranberries soaked in red-wine caramel.