If this spot flies a bit under the radar, that may be because devotees don’t want to clue the rest of the world into the mid-2000s German rieslings and Vouvrays that owner Matt Straus offers for less than $100. Neither the dining room nor the food are particularly
flashy, but the California takes on French bistro classics, like duck confit salad and bacon and-onion tart, are completely satisfying.