Jorge Riera may have relocated, but he has not reconsidered his allegiance to natural wines. The sommelier, who developed destination wine lists at Contra and Wildair, joined chef-duo Lee Hanson and Riad Nasr last April to open Frenchette. His list, like the menu, leans into France, but includes a healthy selection of Spanish and Italian choices; it’s also impressively affordable, focused on small-production bottles and offbeat finds. Start with a spritz, here given a twist with a base of dry cider or a pét-nat wine. Then, move on to something like Cantina Giardino’s Gaia, a zippy fiano from Campania, which can carry you from a tagine d’artichauts with preserved lemon, couscous and favas to a plate of crispy veal sweetbreads, crayfish and spring peas.