photo by Lauren V. Allen

At Copa, Roberto Copa Matos translates the aromas and textures from his Cuban childhood into plates of plátanos rellenos, chicharrones or ropa vieja on cassava flatbreads. His wife, mixologist Elizabeth Turnbull, has dug deep to find authentic recipes and Old Havana back stories for the Daiquiri, Cuba Libre, Mary Pickford and other rum-soaked classics. The results are memorable: Hierbabuena, gently muddled, enlivens a Mojito. Canchanchara, drink of the guerilla fighters who won Cuba’s freedom from Spain, is limey and invigorating, served in a traditional clay cup. And the smoke of a chopped, charred Cuban cigar is captured right in front of you and infused into La Diosa Negra, a dreamy rum-coffee-vanilla nightcap.

107 W. Main St., Durham, North Carolina



This review appears in the print edtion of the August 2018 issue.
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