Back in 2008, Roy Choi became famous as the chef behind the Korean taco, the dish that launched a thousand food trucks and a national mobile culinary craze. Last year he partnered with the Sydell Group on some Wilshire Boulevard bricks and mortar, with two restaurants at the Line Hotel in Koreatown. Pot is a gleaming first-floor haunt given over, well, to things cooked in large pots, Korean-style, whether Dungeness crab, pork neck or bulgogi and noodles, as well as an all-star array of sharable side dishes and panchan. One floor up, poolside under a rooftop greenhouse, is Commissary. It traffics primarily in vegetables augmented by curries, pepper sauces and intensely savory pastes and dips. Of course there’s Hite and Tiger beer to wash it all down, but in a first for LA’s vast Korean dining scene, both menus are also supported by small but rigorous wine lists, authored by Hayden Felice, sensitive to the spice regimen of Korean cuisine, strong in chenin and riesling and spicy red wines, like Beaujolais and Bierzo.

Charred asparagus at Commissary    photo by Audrey Ma

Restaurant Info

Commissary & Pot at the Line Hotel, 3515 Wilshire Blvd., Los Angeles, California

Korean, New American

; Commissary, Los Angeles, California

Korean, New American

213- 381-7411

; Pot, Los Angeles, California

Korean, New American


This review appears in the print edtion of the February 2015 issue.
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