Matthew Kaner and Dustin Lancaster designed this East Side bar as a provocation. For starters, there’s no wine list. Instead, you’ll have to discuss with the staff what might fit your mood. Then they’ll fetch some wines for you to try from the 150 open bottles on hand. You’ll walk away with a glass of something and a better handle on why you like what you like. It’s very satisfying, especially with the cheeses and cured meats on offer.