ABC Kitchen may not have set out to be a neighborhood haunt, but it may be the restaurant we’ve returned to more often than any other in the last year. Unlike other diners, who may have wandered in after shopping next door at ABC Home, the furnishings store, we go expressly for the food—a roasted carrot salad with avocado and spice that won’t let go, its intense carotene-and-spice jolt like turmeric gone wild; mackerel as pristine as the sashimi at the finest sushi bars in town. Bernard Sun, last year’s recipient of the James Beard Award for Outstanding Service in wine, has carefully selected enough organic and/or biodynamic wines to fill two pages, all at peak performance with the food, regardless of their philosophical upbringing. “Organic wines don’t pull any punches,” he says. “When the wine is stinky, it’s really stinky,” he says. But you won’t find a lot of stinkiness at ABC. So go ahead and order that Sancerre you never heard of, or anything, for that matter. Sun has made sure that it will be as refreshing and clean as the food.