You can still sometimes find Bodhi Freedom at Russian Hill’s Bacchus, where he runs what’s likely the smallest wine bar in SF. But he has more room here. He’s filled a space on the corner of 20th and Lexington with vintage midcentury furniture and mod light fixtures. An extensive vinyl collection nods to the address’s former life as a record store. Liz Rubin, who manages the wine and cheese departments at Bi-Rite Divisadero, recommends ordering the salmon roe–topped deviled eggs alongside one of the many great German and Austrian rieslings on offer.