The Milling Room - Wine & Spirits Magazine

Restaurant Review

The Milling Room

by Stephanie Johnson • April 3, 2015

Atlantic Codfish

Among the plethora of restaurants lining Columbus Avenue on the Upper West Side, The Milling Room stands out for its well-executed food and adventurous wine list. Stop in for dinner at the spacious front bar, or venture into the dining room to sit under an arched skylight, the room warmed by rich hardwood accents. Banquettes line the walls beneath shelves stocked with books and pottery, while the tables sit far enough apart that conversations remain private. Chef Scott Bryan, formerly of Veritas, balances comfort with flourishes of style, like his roasted chicken with black trumpet mushrooms glazed with a light Madeira sauce. Enrique Duran has gathered a smart array of bottles at $70 or less, from classic bistro wines like Bourgueil from Domaine de la Butte ($45) and Taille Aux Loups Montlouis Triple Zero bubbles ($55) to verdelho from Amador County (Forlorn Hope, $49). If something grander is in order, he also keeps a reserve list of California cabernet and Barbaresco from the ’80s and ’90s.

Check out a recipe from chef Scott Bryan here.

446 Columbus Ave. (btw 81st & 82nd sts.), New York, NY

New American

212-595-0380

themillingroom.com

Stephanie Johnson

is the Italian wine editor at Wine & Spirits magazine.

This story appears in the print issue of April 2015.
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TAGS New & Notable New American New York New York City Restaurant

David Paradela
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David joined Wine & Spirits in 2021 after immersing himself in the world of wine at the start of the COVID-19 pandemic. Originally from Boston, he graduated from Boston University with a degree in English and completed a master’s degree in Publishing and Writing from Emerson College in 2021. Prior to working at the magazine, he served as an editor and staff writer for the music blog Sound of Boston and worked in scientific publishing. Aside from wine, he loves basketball, arguing about Taylor Swift’s best album, and everything Greta Gerwig touches.

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Corey Warren moved to New York in 2015—fifteen years too late to join The Strokes—after earning a degree at Cornell in Comparative Literature. He started polishing glasses at Betony and threw himself into the restaurant world. Later, while a captain at Aquavit, he began working part time in the Wine & Spirits tasting department. Now, in addition to running tastings, he serves as critic for the wines of the Loire, Southern France, Argentina and South Africa. Corey likes almost anything bubbly, from Miller High Life, the Champagne of beers, to Champagne, the Champagne of Champagne, but he’ll drink anything once, and loves finding unique wines.

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After graduating with a degree in journalism from the Universidad de Chile in Santiago, Patricio Tapia attended Bordeaux University in France, where he studied for a diploma in wine tasting and winemaking. Since then, he has visited wine regions around the world and authored several books, including his annual Descorchados, a Chilean wine guide; The Wines of Colchagua Valley; TodoVino and Wines for Great Occasions. Tapia is also the South American correspondent for The Oxford Companion to Wine, The World Atlas of Wine and Oz Clarke’s Pocket Wine Book. For the past three years, he’s been a host on the El Gourmet channel in South America. At Wine & Spirits, Tapia is the critic for the wines of Argentina, Chile and Spain, and regularly contributes articles on these regions.