Vij’s has forever changed the discussion of Indian cuisine since its opening in 1994. Vikram Vij and his wife, Meeru Dhalwala, apply traditional Indian methods, spices and techniques to sustainably raised local produce, and present the results with wines that don’t shy away from the food’s complex flavors. The list favors mineral-spiced whites, such as Heidi Schröck’s 2013 Furmint from Austria, that can meet the layers of flavors in dishes like chickpeas with star anise, date masala and grilled kale. Reds are juicy and bright and ready for spice; the herbal and crunchy Green Room grenache-syrah blend from Ochota Barrels in Australia’s McLaren Vale is an inspired partner to lamb popsicles in fenugreek cream curry on turmeric-and-spinach potatoes. With Vancouver legend Jay Jones behind the bar, the cocktails are also stars in their own right.