Restaurant Review: San Francisco, California

The Riddler

There’s been a line out the door since Jen Pelka opened this Hayes Valley Champagne bar in early 2017, backed by an all-female team of investors and managers. The corner space looks like a Parisian wine bar with its wide windows, gold-leaf ceiling and marbled table tops. Grab some popcorn from the machine on the bar while you peruse the by-the-glass list, a dozen choices that may feature Kir-Yianni Akakies sparkling xinomavro from Greece or Champagnes from Gonet-Médeville and Dom Pérignon. Move on to caviar and potato chips for the bottle list: The 100 labels span the globe and include numerous pét-nats, but Champagne is clearly the main event, from grand marques like Veuve Cliquot 1985 La Grande Dame and 2002 Salon to Special Club selections like the 100 percent meunier Moussé Brut.

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