Restaurant Review: San Francisco, California

SPQR


A small, clubby, dark-wood-paneled dining room sets off the brightly lit open kitchen and large wall of wines, making clear that they are the focal points of this Pacific Heights modern Italian restaurant. Chef Matthew Accarrino coaxes the most from his deceptively simple ingredients, creating polished dishes particularly pastas—that are delicate yet deep in flavor. Shelley Lindgren’s wine list is an adventure tour of Italy’s regions and multitude of indigenous grapes. There’s as likely to be a freisa as a nebbiolo from Piedmont available by the half or full glass, or a Sicilian “orange” catarratto and a Morro d’Alba from the Marche to order alongside house-made strozzapreti with rich rabbit and greens.

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