Restaurant Review: New York, New York

Indian Accent

 photo by Alexander Mangold
Crab claws with butter, pepper, garlic and cauliflower

Manish Mehrotra’s star is only burning brighter since he opened this upscale restaurant in Midtown last winter, his first venture beyond the New Delhi restaurant that launched him to fame. Here it’s not only the food—innovative and exciting in its nontraditional twists—but also the wine list, compiled by Daniel Beedle, that deserves attention. His list emphasizes aroma and texture above all, key characteristics with Mehrotra’s complex dishes. Riesling leads the way, with three pages showcasing German and Austrian growers as well as examples from Michigan, the Finger Lakes and Slovakia, followed up by an impressive selection of chenin blanc, grüner veltliner and sauvignon blanc, not to mention trousseau gris, Hunter semillon and Corsican vermentino. You might opt for the wine pairing to match the seven-course tasting menu, or choose a bottle like Movia’s 2009 Veliko Bianco to experience how one versatile wine can match a range of intense flavors.

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