Restaurant Review: Minneapolis, Minnesota

Henry & Son

Gretchen Skedsvold and Mark Henry wanted the sort of wines they used to pick up when they lived in Brooklyn, New York. Since they opened Henry & Son in Minneapolis, it has become a must-stop for locals seeking hard-to-find bottles from small-scale producers—ranging from Broc Cellars in California and Teutonic Wine Company in Oregon, to Wimmer-Czerney in Austria, Lebrun in Spain and Franck Peillot in France’s Bugey region. The inventory is deftly organized, with regions arranged in columns, lighter-bodied whites on the top shelves and fuller-bodied reds near the floor. A large table for tastings runs down the middle of the spacious, airy room, near the popular “12 under $12” display. The store is just west of downtown Minneapolis and a block from the city’s farmer’s market. Skedsvold takes a “green” approach to the selections, having grown up on a North Dakota farm where her dad practiced sustainable agriculture at his bison ranch and her mom maintained a large organic garden. Together with Henry, she says they are seeking libations with a “nothing-to-hide style of winemaking, brewing or distilling,” meant for patrons “looking for something they may not have had before.”