Restaurant Review: Finger Lakes, New York

FLX Table & Kindred Fare


Cheese plate at Kindred Fare

Geneva is having a dining moment right now, with two new restaurants worth your making reservations. FLX Table is the latest from Christopher Bates, the Master Sommelier who runs Element Winery on Seneca Lake and FLX Weinery, a gourmet hotdog restaurant in nearby Dundee. He’s in the kitchen at FLX Table, turning out wildly creative Nordic-style cuisine firmly rooted in the Finger Lakes; he’s also responsible for the selection of wines set out on the sole 12-seat table—an array of both local and global bottles. You pay only for the wine you consume, and the bottles inspire plenty of conversation across the table. Book early; reservations are essential.

The vibe is a little different at Susie Atvell’s Kindred Fare, a larger space in a modern plaza on the edge of Geneva, but the attractions are similar: Great food, locally sourced and cosmopolitan in execution (meats are butchered and bread is baked in-house), and terrific wine, an eclectic mix of Finger Lakes bottles at friendly prices rounded out by a thoughtful selection from around the world, from classic Bordeaux to chenin blanc from Milton in New Zealand and mondeuse from Jean Perrier in France’s Savoie.