Restaurant Review: San Francisco, California

Cotogna


 photo by Bonjwing Lee
Squid pasta

With its roaring open-fire grill and wood oven, this Italian taverna is more rustic than Quince, its formal sibling next door. The wine list is succinct, all-Italian and all priced below $100, though you can also order from Quince’s 950-bottle cellar. Whatever you do, order some of the toothsome pasta, like raviolo filled with ricotta and a runny egg yolk, or taglierini with spicy Dungeness crab and toasted breadcrumbs.

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