Restaurant Review: British Columbia, Canada

Burdock & Co.


 photo by Allison Kuhl

You’ll find the city’s sole all-natural wine program at Burdock & Co., a little Mount Pleasant restaurant run by Andrea Carlson, one of the pioneers of foraged cuisine in Vancouver. Last autumn, dishes like elk bavette with tomatillo-epazote chimichurri and chanterelle mushrooms competed for attention with Carlson’s legendary buttermilk fried chicken, which she serves with pickle mayo and a dusting of dill powder. Wine director Matt Sherlock’s tight wine descriptions make it easy to navigate the list, where Okanagan indie heroes like Lock & Worth shoulder up to icons like Movia from Slovenia; Cornelissen’s Susucaru, for instance, is translated into “hibiscus flowers, balsamic, raspberries, iron—cool-kid juice grown on an active volcano.”

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