Restaurant Review: British Columbia, Canada

Botanist


 photo by Luis Valdizon

Newly opened in the city’s swish Pacific Rim hotel, Botanist is your go-to when you need to go posh. Grant Sceney runs the bar, and his drinks, presented in categories such as “Flowers + Trees” and “Berries + Vines,” aren’t cheap, but they are stunningly made. The Shepherd of Trees, for instance, a mix of Douglas fir-infused gin, oaked rye, cedar, birch sap and alderwood-smoked tea, will imprint the Pacific North-west on your palate for all time. Upstairs, in the dining room, the food does the same, in dishes like beet agnolotti with grilled sturgeon or butter-poached lobster with trumpet mushrooms. Jill Spoor’s wine list highlights the artistic, fine cuisine with terroir-ist wines from near, like Vancouver Island’s 2013 Averill Creek Pinot Noir, and far, like Stina’s 2014 Pošip-Brac from Croatia.

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