Restaurant Review: New York, New York

Appellation / Le Dû Wines / Wine Therapy

Wine Therapy storefront

At press time, the city was restlessly awaiting the late-autumn onslaught of big-name, big-wine-list openings. The Bastianich-Batali crew (Babbo, Lupa, Esca, and so on) is busily compiling Italian bottles for the list at Del Posto in the Meatpacking District, while a few blocks away Zak Pelaccio is assembling Austrian and German whites for the Malaysian food at his new Fatty Crab. Bill Telepan (Judson Grill) is working out cellar space at the new Telepan on the Upper West Side, while the guys at Five Points are working on opening a west side branch called Cookshop. And Olivier Flosse from Café Boulud has been assembling a deep, French-skewed list for Andrew Carmellini’s yet-to-be-named place on 26th Street. But thanks to a slew of new wine stores, New Yorkers aren’t lacking for wine and people to help them find it: There’s Le Dû Wines in the West Village, opened by Jean-Luc Le Dû, the former sommelier at Daniel; Appellation, a Chelsea space devoted to organic and biodynamic wines from Scott Pactor; and Wine Therapy, a hip store focusing on small-production and organic wines, run by Frenchman Jean-Baptiste Humbert.