Ignored for years, Chile’s old vines are finally getting their due. The Villalobos family in Colchagua is at the front guard of the movement, a winery to watch. At first glance (and second glance, too) the Villalobos family vineyard in Lolol, on the coast of the Colchagua Valley, is a mess. The vines climb up trees, over shrubs and across the ground through the weeds. They call it su viñedo silvestre, a vineyard that had grown wild for more than half a century until 2009, when they decided to make wine from it. Only then did they discover that the vines were carignan. They made 5,000 bottles of Villalobos Carignan Viñedo Silvestre, a cloudy, rosé-hued wine so fresh, juicy and wild that you’ll want to drink it in summer, by the pool, especially if there are sausages on the grill.