Winery to Watch 2013

Hungary: Spiegelberg

If you like high-acid wines with palate-whetting minerality, check out Somlo, a small region in northwest Hungary. Spiegelberg is one of the region’s wineries to watch. Somló may be Hungary’s smallest wine region, but its volcanic soil produces white wines to rival Tokaji in their rush of acidity and minerality. Case in point: the wines of Istvan Stephan Spiegelberg, who started making wine as a hobby while working as a test driver for BMW. In 2007, he turned his full attention to his vineyard, about five acres he hand picks mostly by himself. His olazriesling might be the loveliest welschriesling I’ve ever tasted, a big, busty wine with expansive flavors. His furmint is powerful and peppery, rumbling with volcanic energy; it’s ready to take on a mangalitsa pork chop. And the Wedding Night Cuvée, a blend of juhfark with furmint and hàrslevelú, is a lively, palate-whetting thrill, a terrific introduction to the region and its wines.