Winery to Watch 2013

Croatia: Roxanich

Mladen Roxanish looked all over the world to find a place to launch a winery before he decided that Croatia had all he needed to produce world-class wine. His is a winery to watch. Mladen Rožanich looked all over the world to find a place to launch his own winery before he decided that Istria, his homeland, had all he needed. Climate? Mediterranean—olives and vines are the two major crops. Soil? Terra rossa. He launched Roxanich in 2004, and now farms about 62 acres of vines without any chemical inputs. In the winery, everything ferments spontaneously in older wooden vats, left on the skins up to six weeks for reds, and several months for whites. The 2008 Ines in White is a field blend of riesling italico, sauvignon blanc, vermentino and other varieties he picks all together, ferments and leaves on the skins for up to 174 days. Like most orange wines, it’s spicy and tannic. And yet, unlike most of them, the wine feels fresh, as crisp as an apple, with a turmeric-like tang that matches its hue. It’s a terrific take on the style.