Savatiano gets little love in Greece, though that’s changing in the hands of growers like Stamatis Mylonas. A third-generation grape grower, the young Mylonas became the first in his family to bottle wine with the 2006 vintage. With 30 acres of land fanned out over 17 locations and a new winery in Keretea, Mylonas is working at warp speed to learn all he can about the potential of savatiano. He has a sparkling version, a sweet and an amphora version in the works in addition to dry versions, resinated and not. Picking early, he turns out some of the most delicate savatianos around, wild in their herbal scents. He also puts out the best mainland version of Santorini’s famed assyrtiko we’ve ever tasted, the 2010 deeply mineral and savory, its honeyed richness balanced by dry, chalky firmness.
photo by Markus Stolz.