Winery to Watch 2014

Swartland, South Africa: Mullineux

Chris and Andrea Mullineux settled in Swartland in 2007, attracted by the region’s old-vine plots of syrah and grenache. The couple produces reds, but we were intrigued by their 2012 Swartland white. It blends old-vine chenin with clairette blanche and viognier, offering fresh peach flavors with pale scents of wheat and honey. And then we were blown away by their Straw Wine, a chenin from old, dry-farmed bush vines grown on decomposed granite, blended with fruit from a 30-year-old vines on shale and schist. They harvest around 23˚ Brix, while the grapes still sustain plenty of acidity, then age them on straw racks for three weeks to concentrate the sugars. Fermented without added yeast, barrel-aged then bottled without fining or filtering, their 2011 is luscious; its layering of scents captures the fragrance and freshness of the air along the Cape’s Atlantic coast.