2015 Eden Valley The Virgilius Viognier Louisa Rose, chief winemaker at Yalumba, presents this viognier as the winery's flagship white wine. In fact, the variety has found a home in Eden Valley over the past 35 years, producing firm, mineral-inflected wines that show viognier's character in their voluptuous textures rather than in pungent perfume. There's nothing blunt or aggressive about this wine, selected from mature vines, fermented without added yeast in what Rose describes as "mature" French oak barriques and puncheons, where it later rests with the lees for ten months. Stirring the lees adds to the textural fatness, as well as the complex layering of fleshy grapefruit and passion fruit flavors. While the wine hints at lavender and lanolin, it's not very aromatic, focused more on the mineral underpinning of its structure. A wine to cellar, it's also one you could decant now, especially with a bowl of crab laksa, the spicy Malaysian coconut milk soup. —Joshua Greene
This wine was featured in our February 2017 monthly newsletter.
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