2015 Bairrada Vinho Branco (Best Buy) Luis Petrão, who, until recently, was the winemaker at Esporão in Alentejo, started this project with his father, Dinis, at his family's vineyards in Bairrada. He has quickly entered into the top ranks of a region beginning to reclaim its former glory, not just for reds from the persnickety baga grape, but especially for long-lived whites. Mostly old-vine cerceal, this elegant wine captures the limestone in which it grows in a focused and concentrated scent of seashells. A smaller portion of bical, fermented in old oak barrels, lends a caramelized note of richness, pointing up the sweetness of the fruit as it expands over the wine's crisp coastal freshness. Built to cellar. —Joshua Greene
This wine was featured in our July 2017 monthly newsletter.
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