2009 Tokaji Szamarodni Based on an old style of Tokaji that combines botryitised and non-botrytised grapes—the name means "as it comes"—this wine manages to be at once gloriously sweet and not cloying at all. The flavor comes in waves, starting with a deep, rich earthy note and moving through candied orange, dark honey and apple tarte tatin. All along, the acidity keeps it light, breathing air through the layers, creating the vinous equivalent of a millefeuille. While it's sweet enough to stand in for dessert, it has the acidity to play well with foie gras as well. —T.Q.T.