2004 Rioja Reserva Viña Tondonia A great vintage of this classic wine, this reveals its sunny beauty over the course of days. Open the bottle and you might taste tart lemon, juicy almond and touches of oxidation, bringing to mind wood oils. Those flavors integrate with air so that the wine saturates the palate with freshness, the scent turned heady, toward croissants and almond blossoms, the flavors savory, salty and bright. This family-run winery farms prime Rioja Alta sites along the Ebro River, aging this estate-grown wine in cool riverside tunnels in their cellar in Haro. Tondonia Reserva spends six years in old barrels, racked twice a year, then continues aging in bottle prior to release. Over that time, the wine seems to gain resilience, though you will not get the full benefit of this white unless you give it plenty of air. Leave it in a decanter and it gives off the energy of the cool sun at harvest, a delicious memory of an ideal autumn day in 2004. —Joshua Greene
This wine was featured in our November 2017 monthly newsletter.
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