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October 2006
Over the last twelve months,
Wine & Spirits tasted 269 American merlots.
These 12 merlots received the strongest praise from our critics.
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Merlots
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93
I Duckhorn
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$70
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2002 Howell Mountain Napa Valley Merlot
Tasted on release, the Howell Mountain wine is usually the most backward of Duckhorn's merlots. It feels heavy when first poured, rich with pipe tobacco and black cherry flavors. With a little air, silky tannins begin to lift the fruit. The tannins develop a mineral edge over the course of several days, while the texture continues to manage the wine with increasing grace. Round and delicious, this is a profound merlot to cellar for ten years or more. (1,707 cases)
(W&S 10/06) Duckhorn Vineyards, St. Helena, CA
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92
I Duckhorn
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$85
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2002 Napa Valley Estate Grown Merlot
Since Mark Beringer took on Tom Rinaldi's role as director of winemaking at Duckhorn in 2000, he hasn't changed the style of merlot Rinaldi made famous. This release plays directly to the success of that style, one of the few merlots in Napa to emphasize red fruit flavors and the tenderness of the grape. The aromatics are delicate, melding red fruit and earthiness, the texture supple, the finish fresh. Delicious now, it should grow more complex over the next several years.
(W&S 12/05) Duckhorn Vineyards, St. Helena, CA
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93
I Leonetti
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$60
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2004 Walla Walla Valley Merlot
From a winery that has earned a reputation for powerful wines, this merlot stands out for its understatement. Its clean, pure flavors are like a composite picture of Walla Walla. The wild black cherry and dark plum aromas are accented by savory elements like pine and thyme; its gentle tannins give way to a long, succulent finish, seamless and graceful. Ideal for pork roasted with juniper. (2,900 cases)
(W&S 10/06) Leonetti Cellar, Walla Walla, WA
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92
I Ballentine
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$22
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2004 Sonoma County Fumè Blanc
Delicate strawberry flavors last through this wine. It's clean and firmly built, emphasizing freshness, lightness and a sweet-savory balance. Impressively fruit-driven, this is a refined merlot for grilled pork tenderloin with a dry spice rub. (2,240 cases)(W&S 10/06) Ballentine Vineyards, St. Helena, CA
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92
I Bravante
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$34
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2003 Howell Mountain Napa Valley Merlot
The classical, tender plumminess of merlot is at the core of this wine, a sweet fruit character balanced by more savory elements of black earth. It lightens toward raspberry as the tannins take on air, a juicy, mouthwatering wine with a tealeaf character that brings cabernet franc to mind. Velvety and refined. (530 cases) (W&S 10/06) Bravante Vineyards, St. Helena, CA
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92
I Duckhorn
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$85
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2003 Napa Valley Estate Grown Merlot
This tastes like bittersweet chocolate when first poured, emphasizing oak over fruit. It turns more vinous with air, as the richness moves toward a fresh tobacco scent and the texture becomes increasingly luscious: chocolate bliss with cherries underneath. Serve it with roast wild turkey. (2,269 cases) (W&S 10/06) Duckhorn Vineyards, St. Helena, CA
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92
I JM Cellars
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$32
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2003 Red Mountain Merlot
Red Mountain grows what's arguably this country's most powerful expression of merlot, and this one doesn't disappoint. It is a deep, brooding wine with rich flavors of cocoa and dark fruits. Its tannins feel almost furry in their density, with great purity and length. Needs time; then serve with braised lamb. (125 cases) (W&S8/06) JM Cellars, Woodinville, WA
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92
I Pepper Bridge
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$45
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2003 Walla Walla Valley Merlot
A savory, satisfying merlot, this has a fine, woodsy spice scent that supports the fruit. Its flavors are full-bore-black cherries in an espresso bath-gaining some of their depth and amplitude from sumptuous oak. It has the weight for wild game, like pheasant. (1,235 cases) (W&S 8/06) Pepper Bridge Winery, Walla Walla, WA
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92
I Sequoia Grove
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$48
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2003 Napa Valley Merlot
This earthy, resinous merlot has juicy, black herb scents and black cherry flavor. The fruit is soft and chocolate-rich while the tannins are built firm and completely dry; they develop a dark soil edge, potent enough for a rib eye. Limited production. (78 cases) (W&S10/06) Sequoia Grove Vineyards, Rutherford, CA
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92
I Tamarack Cellars
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$28
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2004 Columbia Valley Merlot
This wine reminds me why merlot has achieved such popularity in this country. It's delicious, big, pure, forward and irresistible. It leads with aromas that recall ripe red cherries macerating in brown sugar, flavorful without being sweet. Supported by rich oak that teeters on being indulgent, this is delicious now, with steak. (1,372 cases)
(W&S10/06) Tamarack Cellars, Walla Walla, WA
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92
I White Oak
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$25
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2003 Napa Valley Merlot
There's a sophisticated wine here, even if it's intensely reduced when first poured. That funky reduction blows off and the wine shifts rapidly and dramatically toward mineral tannins and bold, succulent fruit. The graphite feel of the tannin and dense, slightly floral black fruit make this a wine for slow-smoked beef ribs. (2,750 cases)
(W&S 10/06) White Oak Vineyards & Winery, Healdsburg, CA
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92
I Whitman
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$32
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2003 Walla Walla Valley Merlot
This is classic Walla Walla merlot, with its savory scents of beef, sun-dried tomatoes, mocha and black cherries. It's succulent and completely delicious, a 2003 built for immediate consumption; an ideal wine for duck confit. (670 cases)
(W&S 8/06) Whitman Cellars, Walla Walla, WA
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