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February 2007
Over the last twelve months,
Wine & Spirits tasted 321 American zinfandels and 345 American syrah.
These 8 zinfandel and 14 syrah received the strongest praise from our critics.
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Zinfandel
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95
I Howell Mountain Vineyards
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$38
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2003 Howell Mountain Black Sears Vineyard Zinfandel
Massive as a Port while completely dry, this black, figgy zin is exuberant, with a muscular, tannic structure that feels as if it's blanketed in chocolate. Open this six to ten years from the vintage, with roast boar.
(W&S 4/06) Howell Mountain Vineyards, Rutherford, CA
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94
I Elyse
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$37
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2004 Howell Mountain Napa Valley Zinfandel
I would buy this wine just for the scent-fresh herbs, peppercorn, juniper, violets. Air pulls the luscious fruit out of the potent tannins melding with the chocolate richness of oak. (1,188 cases) (W&S 8/06) Elyse Wines, Oakville, CA
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94
I Storybook Mountain
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$38
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2003 Napa Valley Eastern Exposures Zinfandel
Here's what zinfandel and California wine should be: simple, joyous and delicious. This zin tastes fresh, savory and spicy, bright as red cherries. Decant it for rack of lamb. (863 cases)
(W&S 6/06) Storybook Mountain, Calistoga, CA
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93
I Bella
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$34
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2004 Dry Creek Valley Lily Hill Estate Zinfandel
This wine has a zin berry intensity that's pure Dry Creek Valley. Its high notes contrast with savory flavors of figs and salty chocolate. It's elegant; for grilled lamb. (900 cases) (W&S 2/07) Bella Vineyards, Healdsburg, CA
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93
I Calistoga Cellars
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$26
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2003 Napa Valley Zinfandel
An extraordinarily vibrant purple robes this wine while oak enriches it, turning the plum and strawberry flavors toward a silken elegance. A great Napa Valley red. (2,300 cases) (W&S 6/06) Calistoga Cellars, Calistoga, CA
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93
I Chateau Potelle
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$55
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2004 Mt. Veeder Napa Valley V.G.S. Zinfandel
This emphasizes elegance over power, with floral red berry and plum fruit that lasts, both tense and fresh. As with the 2003 (93 pts., W&S 6/06), it's a treasure to sock away for ten years. (982 cases) (W&S 12/06) Chateau Potelle, Napa, CA
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93
I Howell Mountain Vineyards
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$50
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2003 Howell Mountain Old Vine Zinfandel
Wild from start to finish, this zinfandel is all animal and huckleberry when first opened. It gains clarity and fruit richness over the course of several days. Deliciously pure, lovely zin. (W&S 4/06) Howell Mountain Vineyards, Rutherford, CA
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93
I Carol Shelton
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$28
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2004 Mendocino County Wild Thing Cox Vineyard Zinfandel
With the floral scent, the fiery spice of red fruit, the lasting mineral edge and the cool, Mendo-Mediterranean zing of acidity, this wine is delightful. (1,500 cases) (W&S 2/07) Carol Shelton Wines, Windsor, CA
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Syrah
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96
I Lagier Meredith
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$50
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2004 Mt. Veeder Napa Valley Syrah
This is more elegant and lighter in weight than the 2003 (97 pts.,W&S 8/06), with exotic scents of game, fir, manzanita and peppercorns. The finish is cool and dynamic. For now, the wine is extreme, though it could be tempered by salume or cellar time. (700 cases)
(W&S 2/07) Lagier Meredith Winery, Napa, CA
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95
I Big Basin Vineyards
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$45
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2004 Santa Cruz Mountains Mandala Syrah
Purely delicious and complex, this is deep and inviting, bringing forest berries and mulberries to mind. The fruit seems to sing out of the tannin, where the aromatics are buried in mineral essence. A simple rack of lamb will frame the purity of fruit. (95 cases)
(W&S 2/07) Big Basin Vineyards, Boulder Creek, CA
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94
I Beckmen
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$40
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2003 Santa Ynez Valley Purisima Mountain Syrah
Steve Beckmen farms his young vines biodynamically, and the results are impressive. Mineral character energizes the ripe cherry flavor; for mesquite-grilled lamb. (500 cases) (W&S 08/06) Beckmen Vineyards, Los Olivos, CA
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94
I Beckmen
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$45
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2003 Santa Ynez Valley Block Six Purisima Mountain Syrah
Intensity is apparent from this wine's violet edge through to the succulence of the fresh, fleshy cherry and mineral tannin. Cellar it for a decade. Delicious. (250 cases) (W&S 4/06) Beckmen Vineyards, Los Olivos, CA
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94
I Neyers
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$30
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2004 Sonoma Coast Old Lakeville Road Syrah
This is deliciously rich without being hyperripe. It feels elegant for its weight, the balance between dark, fresh berry flavors and oak becoming more dynamic with air. (W&S 6/06) Neyers Vineyards, St. Helena, CA
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94
I Peay
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$48
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2004 Sonoma Coast La Bruma Syrah
This is an electric blue, a color intensity that's paralleled by the pure black raspberry freshness of the flavor. Underneath, dark, savory extract grounds the wine with a meaty structure. (325 cases) (W&S 2/07) Peay Vineyards, Annapolis, CA
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93
I Baileyana
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$30
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2003 Edna Valley Grand Firepeak Cuvee Syrah
Subtly balanced between bright, fresh fruit and stony tannins, this finishes cool and beautiful. (1,325 cases) (W&S 4/06) Baileyana Winery, San Luis Obispo, CA
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93
I Blue Cellars
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$45
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2003 Carneros Napa Valley Truchard Vineyard Syrah
This delivers peppercorn scents and a meatiness that brings northern Rhône wines to mind. (186 cases) (W&S 10/06) Blue Cellars, San Francisco, CA
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93
I Lost Canyon
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$35
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2004 Sonoma Coast Stage Gulch Vineyard Syrah
Complexity builds in layers, from scents of rose petal and lavender to smoky blue fruit; for lamb. (280 cases) (W&S 6/06) Lost Canyon Winery, Oakland, CA
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93
I McCrea
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$50
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2003 Red Mountain Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Syrah
This is fresh and light, with vibrant black cherry flavors dusted with white pepper. For rack of lamb.
(W&S 12/06) McCrea Cellars, Rainier, WA
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93
I Peay
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$45
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2003 Sonoma Coast Syrah
Deep blackberry flavors share equal intensity with the blast of spice in this far-coast syrah. It's long and dry with peppery tannin; for the cellar. (W&S 6/06) Peay Vineyards, Annapolis, CA
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93
I Qupé
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$40
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2003 Santa Maria Vly. Bien Nacido Hillside Estate Syrah
This packs complex, smoky aromas into a bright, lithe frame. It will grow expansive with age. (1,000 cases) (W&S 6/06) Qupˇ Wine Cellars, Santa Maria, CA
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93
I Reininger
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$32
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2003 Walla Walla Valley Syrah
Rich and seductive, this supports generous fruit with complex scents of beef bones and blackberries. For beef bourguignon. (1,034 cases) (W&S 6/06) Reininger, Walla Walla, WA
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93
I Renard
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$35
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2003 Sonoma Coast Peay Vineyard Syrah
Full-bore intensity of cracked black pepper contrasts cool, gentle fruit. For lamb chops grilled over grape vines. (87 cases) (W&S 6/06) Renard Wines, St. Helena, CA
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