Spirits Review

Montelobos Joven Mezcal

A new label, this comes from the Lopez family, which has been producing mezcal for fi ve generations. They start with espadín agave organically grown in the Sierra Madre range near Montelobos (Mountain of Wolves), roast it in traditional stone-lined earthen pits and crush the cooked agave by mule-powered stone wheel. The Joven leans towards the vegetal end of the spectrum, but the smoky, earthy flavors bloom like sweet roasted corn and mint with each sip. Its only detraction is the massively heavy bottle and large lip on the opening, a combination that makes pouring a bit of a challenge.

Reviewed in W&S June 2013.