One of the ways we recognize good wines in our blind tastings is when they immediately incite dreams of dishes we’d like to have with them. That was the case with #9 on April 28, a little after 10am, when associate editor Caitlin Griffith blurted out, “this would be great with something like toast with fresh ricotta and roasted red peppers.” If it’s an olive loaf, all the better.
Wine: Number nine is the Dossagio Zero from Edi Kante in Venezia Giulia. The ricotta and peppers would also work well with Movia’s Puro Rosé from Brda.
Mushrooms & Mineral Bubbles
This is a riff on a dish from Odessa Piper, who served a terrific mushroom salad at L’Etoile, the seminal farm-to-table restaurant she ran in Madison, Wisconsin for 20-some years: Gather a selection of mushrooms other than cremini. Place a cast-iron pan in a 450°F oven until fully heated. Toss the mushrooms in olive oil and salt. Then, starting with the thickest mushrooms, toss them into the hot pan. After they’ve cooked a few minutes, add the next thickest, until they are all in. Stir only occasionally; the idea is to let them crisp like bacon. When they are crisp, pile them on some garlic toasts. For a decadent addition, poach an egg and place it on top.
Wine: A dry Vinho Verde Bruto, like the biodynamic and bottle-fermented Aphros Loureiro Reserva, would be delicious with the mushrooms, as would a Loire chenin, like the Brut de Chenin Crémant de Loire from Pithon-Paillé.
This recipe is a W&S web exclusive.
photo by Sarah Anne Ward