What: This small family winery makes everything from pinot noir to marechal foch.

Standout: Airlie excels with whites: the lean, complex and aromatic pinot gris has been impressing tasting panels for several vintages running; the '03 ($12) is terse and limey, with broad quince flavors.

Where: Monmouth, Oregon, on 32 acres in the center of the Willamette Valley.

When: Airlie whites make fine drinking in their youth, while the pinot gris can gain complexity with a little bottle age. Drink with anything blackened, from chicken breast to catfish.

What: Chardonnay, cabernet, merlot and pinot from California's cooler climes, like the Russian River Valley, Sonoma County and Mendocino.

Standout: The 2004 Sonoma County Merlot ($12) offers all the character of cool-climate merlot for half the price of its competitors.

Where: Made just south of the Russian River by Martin Ray Winery in Graton, California.

When: The spicy, blue fruit character of Angeline's merlot makes it a good choice for roast leg of lamb. Crack into the Mendocino Pinot Noir with grilled sausages, and take the chardonnay on a picnic along the Russian River.

What: Chardonnay and zinfandel drawn from BV's extensive roster of vineyards along the California coast and in the Napa Valley.

Standout: BV's 2003 Napa Valley Zinfandel ($14) is a classic rendition of California's grape: dark, rich fruit that tastes of the warm sun.

Where: From Rutherford in Napa Valley, BV's home base since 1900.

When: Enjoy the Coastal Chardonnay as the summer sun sets and the barbecue coals start to glow; open the Napa Zinfandel once the pork loin comes off the grill.

What: Clean whites and smooth, full-flavored reds-most notably zinfandel and sauvignon blanc.

Standout: 2004 California Sauvignon Blanc ($10), full and round with pear-fruit flavors accented by a tinge of green.

Where: Based in Healdsburg, Dancing Bull is close to growers who have sold grapes to the Gallo family for generations, supplemented by sources in Modesto, Lodi and the Central Coast.

When: The Sauvignon Blanc is perfect for a June afternoon; the smooth, easy-drinking 2003 Zinfandel is ideal for burgers.

What: Perennial values in balanced whites and soft, simple reds from a brand committed to sustainable farming.

Standout: The smooth-drinking 2002 California Valley Oaks Zinfandel ($9), with black cherry fruit flavor and gentle tannins.

Where: Based in Hopland, California, Fetzer pulls grapes from Mendocino, the Sierra Foothills, Monterey, the Central Coast and the Central Valley.

When: Open the Valley Oaks Zinfandel or Syrah Rosé for pizza night.

What: Fruit-driven wines-both whites and reds-that consistently offer value and clean varietal flavor.

Standout: The 2002 California Cabernet ($6) has clear varietal character with cassis flavors topped with herb notes.

Where: The wines are produced in Sonoma, California from grapes grown in the Central Coast and Central Valley.

When: Pour the cabernet at a cookout, especially with steak.

What: Forward, friendly chardonnay and pinot noir from California's Central Coast.

Standout: The '04 Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir ($15) shows all the delicacy of the grape along with the peppermint spice of Santa Barbara County.

Where: Hangtime is part of Folio Wine Partners, a wine company founded in 2004 by the Michael Mondavi family. The chardonnay comes from Edna Valley and the pinot noirs from vineyards in both the Santa Maria and Edna valleys.

When: Grilled fish for Hangtime's Santa Maria Valley Pinot, or braised pork shoulder for the bolder Edna Valley Pinot.

What: Aromatic whites and smooth, easy-drinking reds.

Standout: A textbook 2004 Columbia Valley Merlot ($9), with its ample plum flavor accented by leafy scents.

Where: Prosser, Washington, the heart of the Columbia Valley.

When: Pour Hogue's chenin blanc, riesling or gewurztraminer for lunch or an afternoon aperitif. Open the Columbia Valley Merlot for barbecued beef ribs.

What: Stalwart, varietally true wines from the Yakima Valley.

Standout: The '03 Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon and '03 Columbia Valley Merlot (each $9), with their straightforward, pleasing flavors and lean, food-friendly textures.

Where: Hoodsport, Washington, on the Olympic peninsula, overlooking the Hood Canal.

When: The crisp chardonnay makes a great aperitif or accompaniment to grilled prawns; the reds would be terrific with sliced beef.

What: Cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay and zinfandel made from estate vineyards in the Sierra Foothills and around Lodi.

Standout: The '04 Old-Vine Zinfandel ($10), from vines more than 45 years old, packs loads of sweet dark fruit and peppery spice.

Where: Murphys, California, nestled in the foothills of the Sierra Nevada mountains.

When: Keep a bottle of the chardonnay in the fridge as refreshment at the end of a long day. Stock the Old-Vine Zin for backyard barbecues.

What: With some of the largest vineyard holdings in California, winemaker Randy Ullom has a multitude of sources from which to choose grapes, making Kendall-Jackson one of the most reliable value purveyors in the state.

Standout: The melon-scented 2004 California Vintner's Reserve Sauvignon Blanc ($10), at once brisk and packing plenty of fruit flavor.

Where: Santa Rosa, California, with vineyard holdings from Santa Maria to Mendocino.

When: Kendall-Jackson offers many wines at different price points, but the wines in the Vintner's Reserve line are made for picking up at the supermarket and enjoying with dinner tonight.

What: Shiraz and sauvignon blanc from rural Monterey County.

Standout: It's hard to resist the rich plum fruit and white pepper spice of the '04 Monterey County Shiraz ($9).

Where: Monterra is under the Delicato umbrella, and the grapes for each wine are sourced from Delicato's extensive San Bernabe vineyard, which runs along the foothills of the Santa Lucia Mountains.

When: The '04 Shiraz is an everyday quaffer, ideal for pizza or pasta. Pick up the'04 Sauvignon Blanc for a summer's day refresher.

What: Affordable zinfandel, cabernet sauvignon and merlot in the value-priced Vintners Blend series.

Standout: Ravenswood made its name with single-vineyard zinfandel, but when it comes to the Vintners Blend, look to the fresh berry flavors and soft tannins of the 2003 California Cabernet Sauvignon ($12).

Where: Sonoma, California, where winemaker Joel Peterson draws on his knowledge and experience with vineyards all over the state to craft the Vintners Blend wines.

When: The '03 Vintners Blend Zinfandel cries out for barbecue, with the kind of lush, sweet fruit that even your beer-loving cousin would enjoy. The '03 Vintners Blend Cabernet offers a little more structure-for that porterhouse sizzling on the grill.

What: Made by a branch of Sonoma's Sebastiani family, now into their fourth generation of winemaking, Smoking Loon shines with bright syrah, pinot noir, and sauvignon blanc.

Standout: The smoky, brawny '04 California Syrah ($8)-bring on the rack of lamb.

Where: The wines are made in Sonoma with grapes sourced from vineyards up and down Califonia.

When: Smoking Loon's syrah is a go-to red wine, with enough fruit, acidity and complexity to please almost everyone at the table (or on the couch gearing up for baseball's All-Star game).

What: Easy-going cabernet sauvignon and shiraz that are a comfortable fit with California's beach culture.

Standout: For a plainly delicious cabernet with plenty of ripe plum fruit, twist the screwcap off Twin Fin's '03 California Cabernet ($10).

Where: Australians Hugh Reimers and Sam Burton make Twin Fin wines in Gonzales, California, though they get the grapes from California's coastal vineyards-which gives them a good excuse to go surfing.

When: Open the shiraz or the cabernet on a warm, relaxing evening with friends at the dinner table or the beach.

What: Reds that deliver bright and powerful fruit, thanks to the cool nights and plentiful sun in the high vineyards of San Juan.

Standout: The '03 Pedernal Valley Malbec ($8) is generous and opulent, with seductive freshness for a summer evening.

Where: San Juan Valley, to the north of Mendoza.

When: Graffigna's Malbec seems made for roast lamb chops, while the rest of its reds will thrive at any churrasco.

Importer: Pernod Ricard USA, White Plains, NY.

What: Elegant old-school reds from some of Mendoza's best vineyards.

Standout: The 2002 Carrascal ($13) is an excellent example of Weinert's style, with dry cherry scents, chewy fruit and refreshing acidity.

Where: In Luján de Cuyo, just south of Mendoza city.

When: Pour Carrascal this summer with meaty fish; next winter, try it with veal stew.

Importer: Broadbent Selections, San Francisco, CA.

What: Easy-drinking wines, especially riesling, chardonnay and shiraz.

Standout: The 2004 South Eastern Australia Riesling ($7) is a refreshing party pour, displaying clean notes of lime and green apple.

Where: Along the Murray River in South Eastern Australia.

When: Try Banrock's shiraz with fatty ribs, or open up the riesling for a summer clambake.

Importer: Pacific Wine Partners, Gonzalez, CA.

What: Consistently high-quality chardonnay and white blends.

Standout: The 2005 Western Australia Chardonnay ($15) offers ripe pineapple and citrus flavors, with a racy acidity that keeps it balanced.

Where: Based just north of Perth, the winery has vineyards all over Western Australia, from Pemberton to Margaret River.

When: Houghton's fleshy, tropical Chardonnay finds a natural match in salmon with pineapple salsa.

Importer: Centerra Wine Company, Canandaigua, NY.

What: Crisp, limey rieslings and sturdy shiraz from one of Australia's most reliable producers.

Standout: The '03 South Australia Reserve Riesling ($13) has a lively energy, along with a brisk acidity and citrus flavors.

Where: The wines are vinified in Barossa, and the fruit is sourced from an array of vineyards all over South Australia.

When: Serve Jacob's Creek '04 Riesling with marinated octopus this summer. The '03 Reserve Shiraz is also a find at $13.

Importer: Pernod Ricard USA, White Plains, NY.

What: In addition to its high-rolling reds, this legendary Australian wine company offers a range of great value in the Rawson's Retreat, Koonunga Hill and Thomas Hyland lines.

Standout: The 2002 South Australia Thomas Hyland Cabernet Sauvignon ($15) is decadent with cedar-scented black currant flavors.

Where: South Australia.

When: The Thomas Hyland Cabernet is an easy match for braised short ribs or a rare steak.

Importer: Foster's Wine Estates, Napa, CA.

What: From floral, stony riesling to powerful, old-vine grüner veltliner, Forstreiter's wines deliver great bang for the buck.

Standout: The flowery, citrusy Donau Riesling 2004 ($15) is fresh and vibrant, representing excellent value.

Where: The town of Hollenburg in Austria's Kremstal.

When: Forstreiter's racy rieslings will complement all styles of seafood, while the opulent grüner veltliners can handle rabbit, poultry or veal.

Importer: Frederick Wildman and Sons, NY.

What: An affordable portfolio of ripe and modern reds from Colchagua and Maipo.

Standout: Arboleda 2003 Carmen�re ($15), a ripe and mellow example of the grape with chocolate and black cherry flavors.

Where: The winery is in Colchagua Valley; the red grapes come from Maipo and the whites from Casablanca. From 2005, all Arboleda wines will be crafted from relatively cool sites within Aconcagua Valley.

When: The ripe and approachable reds are well suited for meat dishes and sipping in front of the fireplace in winter.

Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, NY.

What: With so many vineyards and a rock star winemaking team-Marcelo Papa (the lead on value-priced wines) working with Ignacio Recabarren and Enrique Tirado-Concha y Toro offers some of Chile's best wines for the price.

Standout: The Frontera 2004 Central Valley Carmen�re ($5) is a great example of carmen�re: herbal hints, chocolate flavors, low acidity and soft tannins. Drink this instead of reading the wine encyclopedia.

Where: Concha y Toro's main wineries are in Pirque and Puente Alto, both in Maipo Valley, but as the largest producer in Chile, it has vineyards and wineries throughout the country's wine-producing regions.

When: The Frontera line offers great everyday wines. Spend a little more for Casillero del Diablo and you'll find some terrific values in reds.

Importer: Banfi Vintners, Old Brookville, NY.

What: Well-priced wines from Pablo Morandé, one of the most talented winemakers in Chile.

Standout: Fresh, minty and fruity, the Vitisterra Grand Reserve 2003 proves how good Maipo cabernet can be-for just $15. And sauvignon blanc is a house specialty.

Where: Morandé is based in Cachapoal Valley, and sources grapes from several valleys in Chile-Casablanca, Maule and Maipo among them.

When: Pour the sauvignon blanc before dinner; serve the Vitisterra Cabernet with flank steak.

Importer: Morandé USA, Atlanta, GA.

What: Whites and reds alike are great here-not surprising given the talent of winemakers Cecilia Torres and Andrés Ilabaca, and some of the best vineyards in Chile's Central Valley.

Standout: Although Santa Rita is one of the most reliable sources of cabernet in Chile, for the last five years it's been making very good sauvignons too, like the fresh, crisp '05 Reserva from Casablanca ($12).

Where: Based in Maipo, the winery grows and purchases grapes throughout Chile's wine regions.

When: Match the Reserva Sauvignon with a ceviche; try the '03 Reserva Carmen�re and '04 Merlot for Chilean meat empanadas.

Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL.

What: Malbec in particular, but keep an eye on the fleshy, spicy syrahs and ripe, vibrant carmen�res, too.

Standout: The Secreto 2004 Carmen�re ($12) is an archetype of a friendly wine, with sweet chocolate flavors and herbal aromas.

Where: San Carlos de Cunaco, in Chile's Colchagua Valley.

When: An ideal partner for Secreto Carmen�re is pasta with a mushroom sauce, while the malbecs are a great match for asados.

Importer: Gourmet Wine & Food Consulting, Hingham, MA.

What: Drouhin is famed for opulent Burgundy from the Côte de Beaune, but when it comes to value-priced wines, look to Drouhin's Village Beaujolais.

Standout: The full, earthy 2004 Morgon ($14).

Where: Beaune, in the heart of the Burgundy region.

When: Pull out the Morgon for coq au vin; lightly chill the Chiroubles and Juliénas for picnics all summer long.

Importer: Dreyfus, Ashby & Co., NY.

What: While famed for his Beaujolais Nouveau, Georges Dubouef turns out even better values from Beaujolais' ten cru villages.

Standout: The lithe, flowery 2004 Fleurie and the meaty '04 Moulin-à-Vent (both $14) capture the reason for Beaujolais crus in both deliciousness and individual personalities.

Where: Roman�che-Thorins, the center of Beaujolais.

When: Chill the Fleurie for summer sipping; save the Moulin-Nicolas G�lis-Vent for colder days and a roast chicken.

Importer: W.J. Deutsch & Sons, Harrison, NY.

What: Muscadet is one of the world's most underrated wines, and Luneau-Papin makes some of the best.

Standout: The Clos des Allées, always a superb example of Muscadet S�vre et Maine Sur Lie, is particularly outstanding in 2004 ($12), showing a dense concentration and taut, stony structure.

Where: In the heart of the Muscadet region, at the western end of the Loire Valley.

When: In their youth, Luneau's Muscadets are perfect companions to oysters or raw shellfish. With age, Clos des Allées will grow rich and complex, with the depth to match poultry, fish or lobster.

Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, NY.

What: Refreshing black-fruited rosés and meaty, hearty reds from Southwest France.

Standout: At $11, it's hard to beat the gravelly, tannic 2003 Madiran for a winter red-or for an affordable addition to your cellar.

Where: Nicolas Gélis, the founder of this co-operative label, is based at Château Montauriol; the six other vintners involved work all over Southwest France.

When: Sip Santat's Negrette Rosé on the patio with grilled chicken; save the heavy-hitting Madiran and Cahors for winter stews.

Importer: SDG Selections, Durham, NC.

What: An affordable taste of southern France in crisp, easy white, red and rosé wines.

Standout: The earthy, spicy blackberry-filled 2004 Côtes du Ventoux red ($8).

Where: The Perrin family is based in Châteauneuf-du-Pape at Château de Beaucastel; the La Vieille Ferme wines come from the slopes of Mount Ventoux.

When: Chill La Vieille Ferme's '04 Côtes du Ventoux Rosé for drinking within view of the beach; screw the cap off the Côtes de Ventoux Rouge for lamb chops grilled over rosemary.

Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL.

What: Crisp, slate-driven riesling from top vineyards in the Mosel.

Standout: The '04 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett ($15) is focused and pure, with racy acidity and a slate-driven pungency.

Where: The winery is located in the city of Trier in the Mosel Valley, and it owns vineyards throughout the Mosel.

When: The Kabinetts are delicious for their fresh, vibrant fruit, but don't be afraid to leave them in the cellar for a decade or more, where they'll develop an inimitable complexity and grace.

Importer: Chatham Imports, NY.

What: This Pfalz estate is best known for its dry single-vineyard rieslings, but the pinot gris and QbA rieslings can offer excellent value.

Standout: The dry, fragrant and richly textured 2004 Villa Wolf Pinot Gris is a steal at $10.

Where: Wachenheim, south of Bad Dürkheim in Germany's Pfalz.

When: Enjoy the pinot gris while it's youthful and fresh, with poultry or richer fish such as yellowtail. The dry rieslings show best with five to eight years of age, and their pronounced minerality is a sophisticated foil to Chinese steamed fish or salt-and-pepper crab.

Importer: Loosen Bros. USA, Oregon City, OR.

What: Polished, affordable wines from Greece's best indigenous grapes.

Standout: The delicate, floral moschofilero from Mantinia ($15).

Where: Boutari has called the northern region of Naoussa home for more than a century, and it has wineries throughout Greece.

When: Drink the Mantinia whenever there's seafood on the menu, and while you're waiting the decade it takes for the Grande Reserve Naoussa to reach its peak.

Importer: Paterno Wines Int'l., Lake Bluff, IL.

What: Whites that are changing the perception of the vilana grape-and Crete's wines in general-with their freshness and zing.

Standout: A lemony, mineral 2004 Vin de Crete ($11).

Where: The winery is in Heraklion, on the northern coast of central Crete, and it sources grapes from different parts of the island.

When: These whites shine with a platter stacked high with raw oysters, clams and other shellfish.

Importer: Hellas Import, Brookline, MA.

What: Tsantali makes dozens of wines; the best are the exotic reds from rare local grapes like moschomavro and limnio.

Standout: The heady, spicy, violet-scented 2004 Makedonikos Moschomavro ($8).

Where: Halkidiki, not far from Thessaloniki in far northern Greece.

When: Sip the sauvignon-assyrtiko blend while waiting for the fennel sausages to cook; when they're done, break out the fragrant moschomavro or tannic limnio.

Importer: Fantis Imports, Carlstadt, NJ.

What: Stony whites from Sicily and richer ones from Puglia.

Standout: The 2004 Feudo di Santa Tresa Janko Grillo ($15) is a vinous snapshot of a place, from the sun-baked stone flavors to the scent of lemon trees and the sea.

Where: The Girelli family has been based in Trento, Trentino-Alto Adige, since the 1800s; today, it makes wines in nine different regions.

When: Start the night with Girelli's snappy chardonnay-verdeca blend ($10). The sunny, crisp grillo is made for fried calamari; the rosé for picnics; and the primitivo for backyard barbecues.

Importer: F&F Fine Wines Int'l., Rutherford, NJ.

What: Smoky falanghina and animale aglianico from Campania made by one of the largest co-ops in Italy.

Standout: The deep, sage-scented '03 Guardiolo Falanghina ($10)

Where: Santa Lucia di Guardia Sanframondi, in the province of Beneventano, Campania.

When: Pair the falanghina with chicken roasted with sage leaves; the leathery aglianico can take on bracioli.

Importer: Atlanta Improvement Co., Atlanta, GA.

What: Pinot grigio with personality and rich tocai friulano.

Standout: The 2004 Grave del Friuli Pinot Grigio ($15) puts other versions to shame with its zesty, dry lemon flavors. The '04 Tocai Friulano is just as impressive at $12, richer with buttery orange notes.

Where: Barbeano di Spilimbergo, Friuli-Venezia-Giulia.

When: Keep the pinot grigio in the fridge for impromptu drinks with drop-in visitors; pull out the tocai friulano at dinnertime with a calamari steak.

Importer: Empson USA, Alexandria, VA.

What: White wines that capture Campania's volcanic soils and Mediterranean climate in their smoky, sunny flavors.

Standout: A smoky, lemon-zesty, wonderfully wild 2004 Fiano di Avellino ($15).

Where: Serino, Avellino, Campania.

When: The best time to drink these whites would be while you're at your time-share on Lipari, but short of that, anytime there's seafood on the table and you wish to be far, far away.

Importer: Domaine Select Wine Estates, NY.

What: Lush, fruity pinot noir and racy sauvignon blanc.

Standout: The cool, crushed red berry fruit in the 2004 Marlborough Pinot Noir ($12) makes for a very tasty value.

Where: New Zealand's largest wine producer, Brancott has vineyards in Gisborne, Marlborough and Hawke's Bay.

When: Enjoy Brancott's briny sauvignon blanc with a plate of Pacific Coast oysters. The earthy flavors of the pinot would work well with mushroom dishes.

Importer: Pernod Ricard USA, White Plains, NY.

What: Textbook examples of Portugal's famed Vinho Verde.

Standout: The $8 single-varietal Vinho Verdes are some of Aveleda's best, from the delicate '04 Loureiro to the richer, nuttier '04 Trajadura, but the company is discontinuing them, so snap up any bottles you can find. The '04 Alvarinho is also worth the splurge at $12, filled with herb-accented white peach flavor.

Where: The 370-acre estate, complete with gardens, fountains, a tea house and a goat tower, is in Penafiel, west of Porto along the A4.

When: Light flavors and refreshing acidity make Vinho Verdes the wines to reach for anytime the mercury goes over 80�F.

Importer: Tri-Vin Imports, Mount Vernon, NY.

What: An affordable taste of coastal South Africa in sunny, clean chenin blanc and chardonnay.

Standout: With a waxy texture and fresh, ripe peach flavors, the 2005 Stellenbosch Chenin Blanc is a steal at $10.

Where: In Koelenhof, just north of Stellenbosch.

When: Pour the chenin poolside or enjoy it with a fat, oily butterfish. Have the sunny chardonnay on hand for casual get-togethers.

Importer: Quintessential, Napa, CA.

What: Juicy, generous monastrell from the warm, dry region of Jumilla.

Standout: Verde 2004 ($8) is a classic monastrell from a hot climate, with sweet spices, black fruit and low acidity. Its intriguing, fresh herbal notes add complexity.

Where: Jumilla, in Spain's southeast, along the Mediterranean.

When: Match Verde 2004 to meat stews-or, in situ, arroz con conejo, a delicious paella with rabbit that's popular in Jumilla.

Importer: Fine Estates from Spain, Dedham, MA.

What: A range of very good Crianza Riojas, with a focus on fresh fruit flavor more than mature, oak-aged notes.

Standout: The lovely Rioja Crianza 2001 ($13), a soft, vibrant wine with spicy, fresh cherry flavor to enjoy this summer.

Where: El Cenicero, 13 miles northwest of Logro�o in Rioja Alta. When: The Crianza 2001 is ideal by the glass at your favorite tapas bar. At home, give it a slight chill and match to chorizo riojano.

Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL.

What: Classic Cavas that are consistently delicious.

Standout: The light, elegant Aria Estate Extra Dry Cava ($12) shows off the house style with its refined bubbles and fresh fruit flavors.

Where: Sant Pere de Riudebitlles, Catalunya, Spain.

When: Anytime is a good time for a glass of Cava, but if you want more precise instructions, try Aria with sashimi.

Importer: Freixenet USA, Sonoma, CA.