Value Brands 2005

What: Densely concentrated and chewy red wines, plus clear and expressive white wines.

Where: Bogle's based in Clarksburg, CA, where it pulls some of its whites, but it also sources grapes from some of the oldest vineyards up and down the state.

When to drink: The old-vine depth and concentration in the zinfandel and the firm tannins of the petite sirah will evolve over time; for now, however, they are the perfect complement to a grilled pepper steak. Reach for the chardonnay with fish - perhaps a freshly caught striped bass or sturgeon from the Sacramento Delta.

What: Succulent whites and big, juicy reds.

Where: Chateau La Paws comes out of a cavernous warehouse leased on an old U.S. Naval base on the San Francisco Bay, but the fruit is drawn from the fruit coffers of Kent Rosenblum, the guy that that rewrote the book on fruit contracts - six dozen sources and counting.

When to drink: Fresh, juicy and immediately delicious, these are the ultimate barbecue wines.

What: Aromatic whites and well-structured reds from some of eastern Washington's most prestigious vineyards.

Where: Woodinville, Washington, the wet side of the Cascades, though all of the vineyards are on the dry side.

When to drink: Ste. Michelle's white wines are fresh, aromatic and accessible, ideal with Thai dishes; the riesling and gewürztraminer also happen to come from some of the oldest and best-established vineyards in the state. Under the Domaine Ste. Michelle label, it also produces some of the country's more affordably quaffable domestic sparklers, meant for any occasion, a celebration or not.

What: Delicate whites, especially the aromatic rieslings and a softly perfumed morio muscat, and firm reds, including a pleasingly meaty lemberger.

Where: Located in Woodinville but sources fruit statewide, including from such well-regarded vineyards as Alder Ridge in the Horse Heaven Hills (see p. 56).

When to drink: Forward and softly perfumed, the whites are crafted for immediate consumption. The reds have a bit of grip that gives them some ageability, and the stuffing to match grilled lamb.

What: California-style shiraz and sangiovese.

Where: Based in Sonoma, Forest Glen sources fruit from throughout California.

When to drink: Grab a bottle of spicy shiraz or cherry-cool sangiovese for any backyard summer party. They have enough character and backbone to easily handle the tri-tip your father-in-law marinates overnight and grills.

What: Straightforward, simple, unadorned wines, blended to attain richness in the whites and deep flavor in the reds.

Where: Based in Sonoma, with fruit sources from throughout California.

When to drink: ForestVille is an everyday wine from Classic Wines of California, which has virtually cornered the market for wines of simple everyday value. Bring a bottle to your next picnic.

What: Lush and fresh whites, smooth and accessible reds from the country's largest wine company.

Where: Hammondsport, in New York's Finger Lakes.

When to drink: Like good German rieslings, Dr. Frank's wines gain great complexity with age (and are frequently used to stymie the experts at blind tastings). The semi-dry wines in particular, which are drier than you'd think, are delightful when young.

What: Lush and fresh whites, smooth and accessible reds from the country's largest wine company.

Where: Healdsburg, CA, with vineyard sources throughout Sonoma county, where the Gallos have had long relationships with the old Italian grape growers of the region. They've carried those relationships forward while developing their own substantial vineyard holdings as well.

When to drink: Gallo of Sonoma wines are made to be supple and approachable right out of the gate. Their pinot gris (as well as that from its partner winery, MacMurray Ranch) is bright, fresh and inviting, with a lemony crispness and brisk textures ideal for an aperitif.

What: Handley's Gewurztraminer is an outstanding example of its type and an exceptional wine at any price; pinots blanc and noir also thrive in Handley's care.

Where: An old sheep ranch tucked away in Philo, CA, at the northwestern end of the Anderson Valley, where a sea of redwood trees tumbles into the Pacific Ocean.

When to drink: Crisp, dry wines that boast intriguing aromatics - like gewurztraminer - are ideally suited to spicy Asian dishes, Thai in particular, where flavors of coconut, cilantro, chili and ginger dominate. The essence of honeysuckle found in the Water Tower White (100-percent viognier) and the brightness of strawberry fruit characteristic of Handley's Pinot Noir Rosé are pleasant on their own or with a creamy chicken korma.

What: Accessible, aromatic whites like chenin and gewurztraminer, and a very satisfying rosé in the 'Terroir' tier, which is designed to reflect Eastern Washington's vineyard character.

Where: Prosser, Washington, in close proximity to its grape sources in the Yakima and Columbia valleys.

When to drink: Drink the aromatic whites and the rosé early, to take advantage of their pretty aromas and crisp, clean flavors.

What: Plenty of good quality syrah, merlot, cabernet sauvignon and zinfandel from a major player in California viticulture.

Where: Homebase is Geyserville, CA; estate-grown grapes, however, are sourced from some of California's best vineyard sites � those planted among the dramatic cliffs, valleys and benchlands of the Pacific coast.

When to drink: At around $12 per bottle, Kendall-Jackson's Vintner's Reserve Syrah is a steal. Showing true varietal character and seductive flavors of cool, ripe blueberries, this little monster will be delicious tonight with an oven-roasted leg of lamb. If you're planning a barbecue in the backyard, be sure to keep a few bottles of the Vintner's Reserve Zinfandel or Collage Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot on hand.

What: Uncomplicated, fruit-forward chardonnay, pinot noir and merlot.

Where: The winery is based in Napa, CA, though the grapes for the wines are sourced from many sun-drenched corners of the Golden State.

When to drink: Aged almost entirely in stainless steel tanks, these are the wines to turn to time and again for immediate gratification, whether that's an early-evening glass of chardonnay or a fruity pinot noir to enjoy with dinner.

What: Simple, rustic affordable wines, including classics made from Bordeaux varieties and several textbook Sonoma County zinfandels, some from very old vines.

Where: Based in Sonoma County, the Pedroncelli family has been farming in the Dry Creek Valley for nearly 80 years, since 1927.

When to drink: These juicy red wines have enough rustic tannins to hold up to stews and long-cooked meats, but they also could be of service to a rare steak, hot off the grill.

What: Zinfandel, with direct flavors, smooth textures, and everyday accessibility. Rancho Zabaco's Dancing Bull tier gives all that at around ten bucks.

Where: Healdsburg, CA, but, as a Gallo brand, Zabaco sources from vineyards the Gallos have worked with for generations � �heirloom� relationships, as winemaker Eric Cinnamon calls them. Most of them are in Sonoma County, but Cinnamon also looks to vineyards in Modesto, Lodi, and the Central Coast.

When to drink: The Dancing Bull series is produced with tonight's dinner in mind: for the clean, green gooseberry flavors of the sauvignon, roast a fish stuffed with herbs; for the juicy, black-fruited zinfandel, toss some burgers on the grill.

What: Fruit-forward whites and snappy reds from Gallo's newest brand.

Where: As for the fruit sources, Redwood Creek draws from the thousands of acres of vines Gallo farms in California's Central Valley. As for finding a bottle, that shouldn't be hard. It's hard to imagine a grocery in the country that doesn't have an ample supply.

When to drink: Tonight, with whatever happens to be for dinner. The limey sauvignon blanc makes a good companion to a chicken Caesar; the pinot noir would fit well with a mushroom risotto.

What: Juicy, ripe chardonnays and muscular syrah-based blends from the Argentine arm of Chile's Santa Rita winery.

Where: Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina.

When to drink: Doña Paula's red blends need decanting or time in the bottle to show all their fruit. Save them for two or three years: meanwhile, enjoy the chardonnay with grilled scallops.

Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL

What: Trapiche's Broquel line offers international style, with an evident use of oak balanced by plenty of ripe fruit, while the Oak Cask Malbec is simple and juicy.

Where: Mendoza, Argentina.

When to drink: Serve the vanilla-and apricot-scented Broquel Chardonnay with grilled mahi mahi this fall. Pull out Oak Cask Malbec and Falling Star Red now, for barbecues and parties, while you wait two or three years for the sweet fruit of Broquel's Cabernet to absorb its oak.

Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, NY

What: Nottage Hill's Chardonnay and Cabernet-Shiraz are well made and hard to beat at the price. And the Stamp of Australia Shiraz is a give-away.

Where: Sourced from vineyards across SE Australia.

When to drink: The lemon-lime scents of Nottage Hill Chardonnay meld right into roast chicken, while the dark-toned fruit of Nottage Hill Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz is ready for any rustic, long-cooked meats, especially mutton stew. Follow that with the warm, toasty, buttered rum flavors of the Whiskers Blake Tawny, served with roasted hazelnuts and almonds.

Importer: Pacific Wine Partners, Gonzales, CA

What: Clean, straightforward varietals at unbeatable prices, from one of Australia's largest export brands.

Where: Based in Barossa, Jacob's Creek sources fruit from vineyards throughout South Eastern Australia.

When to drink: Chill the light, limey Semillon-Chardonnay for a summer aperitif, and reserve the riper, juicy 2004 Chardonnay for grilled prawns. It's clean and balanced, and not sweet � a gift in this price range.

Importer: Pernod Ricard USA, White Plains, NY

What: Pure, lime-scented Clare Valley rieslings from a producer dedicated to the region's classic styles.

Where: Along the Riesling Trail in wind-cooled Clare.

When to drink: Magnum Riesling is brisk and limey, a great choice for shellfish poached in riesling stock. Bin 7 is more complex, with floral lime blossom and gingery acidity. A more substantial wine, this can take some age, or take on a Thai crab salad.

Importer: Pacific Wine Partners, Gonzales, CA

What: Reliable, inexpensive Bin series varietals from South Eastern Australia, and regional reserve selections from South Australia.

Where: Sourced from vineyards across SE Australia.

When to drink: Give the minty black cherry Reserve Merlot a slight chill to serve at a cookout this summer. Or pour the Reserve Shiraz with barbecue. That and the Bin 50 Shiraz share the ripe sweetness of fruit to meld with smoky, spicy, long-cooked meats.

Importer: Southcorp Wines, The Americas, Napa, CA

What: A pioneer in Australia's Great Southern, now producing some of the region's best rieslings, and fine values in cool-climate reds.

Where: Based in Mount Barker, Great Southern, Western Australia with vineyards in the surrounding area.

When to drink: Keep a bottle of Plantagenet riesling in the fridge for after work, or anytime raw oysters are in season. And keep a case of it in the cellar to let the brisk and luscious lime fruit come of age in ten or twenty years. The Omrah Cabernet-Merlot is ready to drink now, its blackberry fruit and green-edged tannins built for steak, while the sweeter, mineral-tinged shiraz is a match for barbecue. Importer: Robert Whale Selections, Washington, DC

What: The standard for ripe, affordable Aussie shiraz, consistently offering exceptional quality for the price.

Where: Sourced from vineyards across SE Australia.

When to drink: The sweet, black-fruited 2003 Shiraz is a spicy match for any grilled meats, while the gentle, earthy 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon needs something as rich as a blue cheese burger to absorb some of its youthful tannin.

Importer: Southcorp Wines, The Americas, Napa, CA

What: Classic Coonawarra cabernet from the winery that resuscitated the region in the fifties, and serious wines at a remarkably affordable price.

Where: Coonawarra's original vineyard estate.

When to drink: You won't find many cabernets for $11 with the clarity of dense black cherry flavor you get in Wynn's 2001. It's simple, but it does cabernet well, and it's a proven ager, as well as a satisfying match with a steak. The '01 Cabernet-Shiraz-Merlot has a touch of oak char over the fruit, the '02 Shiraz a bit sweeter still, both suited to roast beef or lamb.

Importer: Southcorp Wines, The Americas, Napa, CA

What: Juicy ripe reds in an international style from Chile's Central Valley and a crisp, lightly toasty chardonnay from Casablanca put out by Kendall-Jackson's Chilean venture.

Where: Maule Valley, Chile.

When to drink: Pour Calina's chardonnay with marinated scallops, the merlot with a roast beef sandwich and the cabernet slightly chilled for a summer barbecue.

Importer: Sovereign Wine Imports, Santa Rosa, CA

What: Spicy reds that remain vibrant despite Colchagua's heat, and succulent chardonnays from cooler Casablanca.

Where: Colchagua Valley, Chile.

When to drink: Colchagua Valley, Chile.

Importer: Errazuriz Family of Wines, Margate, FL

What: Some of the best Andean cabernet sauvignon.

Where: Maipo Valley, Chile.

When to drink: You may be tempted to drink these three cabernets as soon as you can, especially if you have some juicy lambs chops waiting at the table. Go ahead, but save some bottles to open in another five years: they should only get better.

Importer: W.J. Deutsch & Sons, Harrison, NY

What: Simple, approachable chardonnay and chocolatey cabernet in the entry-level Xplorador, and meaty merlot and soft and juicy carmen�re from Casillero del Diablo, the next level up.

Where: Maipo Valley, Chile.

When to drink: Xplorador Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon are excellent everyday wines, made for quaffing on their own or with burgers and pastas. Pour the richer Casillero Carmen�re and Merlot for steak dinners.

Importer: Banfi Vintners, Old Brookville, NY

What: A portfolio of ripe and warm reds that capture Cachapoal's sun, leading with the smooth, rich Merlot La Capitana and an equally generous carmen�re.

Where: Cachapoal Valley, Chile.

When to drink: Pour La Palma Cabernet at your next backyard party. Save La Capitana Merlot for a steak and fries, and La Capitana Carmen�re for a long-cooked beef brisket.

Importer: Viña La Rosa, San Francisco, CA

What:Ripe, mellow whites and clean, elegant reds. The Bordeaux-based Lurton brothers work on both sides of the Andes, but it's their Chilean wines that really excel.

Where: Colchagua Valley, Chile, and the Uco Valley in Mendoza, Argentina.

When to drink: Take Lurton's ripe, spicy Argentine torrontés to your favorite Chinese restaurant. The richer, melony flavors of Hacienda Araucano Chardonnay can stand up to grilled salmon. Have a glass of Hacienda Araucano Cabernet at sunset and savor its cool, bright fruit. Winesellers, Skokie, IL (for Lurton's Chilean wines) and ExCellars Wine Agencies, Cambridge, MA (Argentine wines)

What: Spicy cabernet blends and vibrant syrah from a winery moving away from its formerly oaky, sweet style.

Where: Maipo Valley, Chile.

When to drink: With spicy strawberry flavors, Barrel Select Syrah is an ultimate barbecue red. The crisp, cherry-filled 60 40 (cabernet-merlot) is great with pasta puttanesca.

Importer: T.G.I.C. Importers, Woodland Hills, CA

What: Ripe, generous malbec is the flagship. Also check out the voluptuous syrah and juicy carmen�re and merlot.

Where: Colchagua Valley, Chile

When to drink: Well chilled, the Reserve Chardonnay will match smoked salmon, while the Secreto Carmen�re is a good choice for roasted duck. Save Secreto Syrah for cooler nights and spicier food: try it with lamb curry.

Importer: Gourmet Wine & Food Consulting, Hingham, MA

What: Earthy, herb-scented reds and vibrant whites from lesser-known corners of France.

Where: From Chile to France, there doesn't seem to be a wine region of the world, let alone a corner of France, that the Bordeaux-based Lurton brothers haven't explored through winemaking.

When to drink: Pour the zingy sauvignon blanc whenever you, or dinner, needs a pick-me-up. Try the spicy, smoky, earthy reds for a mini armchair trip to France.

Importer: ExCellars Wine Agencies, Cambridge, MA

What: Barolo-esque reds from Naoussa in Northern Greece and Chablis-like whites from Santorini.

Where: Naoussa, in the cool climes of northern Greece.

When to drink: Boutari's spicy, tannic Naoussa reds deserve to age for ten years before opening with lamb chops or osso buco. Meanwhile, drink the whites � moschofilero as an aperitif, and Santorini's briny whites with grilled octopus or any manner of seafood and vegetable.

Importer: Paterno Wines Int'l., Lake Bluff, IL

What: Juicy reds and fresh, easy whites, plus an invigorating Retsina and two heavenly, classic dessert wines.

Where: Kourtaki's headquarters are in Markopoulo, southeast of Athens.

When to drink: When it's too hot to eat, pour a cold glass of Kourtaki's fresh retsina to rev the appetite. Always have on hand bottles of the honeyed Muscat of Samos and spicy, caramel-filled Mavrodaphne: both are rich enough to stand in for dessert.

Importer: Nestor Imports, NY

What: Muscat in all its floral glory, from stone-dry versions to rich, caramel-tinged dessert wines, from an island devoted nearly exclusively to the grape.

Where: Samos is a mountainous island in the Aegean Sea blanketed with terraced vineyards.

When to drink: Chill the Odyssey Muscat for sipping seaside or patio-side on a warm day. Enjoy the honeyed, sweet versions when you're too full for baklava, or pour them with less sweet desserts, like pound cake.

Importer: Importer: Trireme Imports, Huntersville, NC

What: Modern takes on Greek classics, especially the cherry-filled red from Naoussa.

Where: Tsantali's home base is in Halkidiki, just south of Thessaloniki in northern Greece, but the company makes wines from several regions of the country.

When to drink: The simple Makedonikos wines make great party pours. The moschomavro, a light red with black fruit flavors and heady, peppery floral notes, is a conversation starter for warm weather drinking, while the Naoussa's tarry blackberry and vanilla tones and strong tannins call out for hearty winter roasts

Importer: Fantis Imports, Carlstadt, NJ

What: Sun-filled, generous whites and reds from local and international varieties at amazingly low prices.

Where: A palm-fronded estate in Sambuca di Sicilia, near Lake Arancio in Agrigento, Sicily.

When to drink: The bright, tart grillo is made for picnics on the beach; pour the nero d'avola for sausage-and-pepper sandwiches, and the lean, gravelly cabernet sauvignon as a poor (and savvy) man's Bordeaux.

Importer: Prestige Wine Imports, NY

What: Clean, crisp whites from Italy's northeast.

Where: Cool vineyards along Italy's Adige river.

When to drink: Pour the fresh pinot bianco with fried clams and scrod; its light, peppery flavors will match any fried fish. The toasty chardonnay makes a simple aperitif, surprisingly fine for the price. And the lightly floral, firmly tannic Lagrein Rosé will work with a range of foods, especially veal scaloppine with mushrooms.

Importer: Dalla Terra, Napa, CA

What: Super value from Portugal's Bairrada and Dão.

Where: Aguada de Baixo, Bairrada

When to drink: Serve the 2000 Dão Reserva slightly chilled and it can accompany any meaty fish or light meats. The Beira Litoral is the kind of bright, spicy red you'd order with roast suckling pig in Bairrada.

Importer: Importer: Portugal Wine Enterprises, Newark, NJ

What: Exceptional Douro reds from a top-rated vineyard just starting to bottle its own wine, with a good Reserve Porto as well.

Where: São João da Pesqueira, Douro Valley

When to drink: Both vintages of Cister da Ribeira are schisty Douro country wines to drink now with lingui�a or any cured sausages. The '00 Douro is more substantial, a sleek and elegant wine at any price: Buy a case to cellar. The sweet, licorice-scented Porto Reserva is designed for drinking now, after dinner, with fruit and cheese.

Importer: Supreme Wines & Spirits, Pleasantville, NY

What: Well-grown whites from mineral-rich soils.

Where: Just inland and over the hills from Capetown.

When to drink: Serve the ripe, round 2003 Sauvignon with crab, and its flinty acidity will add to the rich flavors of the shellfish.The 2004 Chardonnay feels bigger, with a chalky minerality to match roast veal.

Importer: American Wine Dist., San Francisco, CA

What: Crisp sparkling wines at unbeatable prices.

Where: Pened�s, in the hills above the Mediterranean.

When to drink: Chill the bone-dry Brut Nature for oysters or cracked crab, or the Cordon Negro for any tapas. Both are wines to have in the fridge for friends stopping in � at the price of a six-pack of good beer, the Cordon Negro is a sparkling steal. And for birthday cake, the Spumante or Carta Nevada Semi-Dry are both great finds.

Importer: Freixenet USA, Sonoma, CA

What: Spicy, rich old-vine garnacha and cariñena.

Where: Spicy, rich old-vine garnacha and cariñena.

When to drink: Decant the spicy, plummy Sinols Cariñena for a dinner party this winter and match the lighter Sinols Crianza with chorizo or other spicy sausages.

Importer: Olé Imports, NY

What: Nutty, strongly mineral finos and sweet, massive cream Sherries from one of the oldest houses in Jerez.

Where: Jerez de la Frontera, Spain.

When to drink: Pour the delicate Fino Romate as an aperitif and the more powerful Marismeno Fino with fried clams. Reservas Especiales Cream is so filled with figgy richness it's dessert in a glass; Romate Cream, with its tangy flavors and sweet-spicy aromas, will blow your grandmother's mind.

Importer: Shaw-Ross Int'l., Miami, FL