>> US I $15 and under
Gallo of Sonoma Gallo has been a name for value for half a century. That has, in part, accounted for its concerted efforts to distinguish its wines of Sonoma from those of Modesto and elsewhere. But that's not to say that Gallo of Sonoma wines aren't a bargain. The winery's position as Sonoma's biggest landholder helps ensure a competitive price on many of its selections, and Ernest and Julio's - and Gina and Matt's - purchase of classic Sonoma vineyards like Frei, Barrelli, Stefani and Chiotti has also helped to keep their wine prices down and quality high. Such was the case with the '99 Reserve Cabernet, offering so much packed fruit and earth, rich and forward, and at thirteen bucks, a steal. 88  I  1999 Sonoma County Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon $13 (8/02) 86  I  2000 Sonoma County Reserve Chardonnay $11 (8/02) 86  I  2000 Sonoma County Reserve Pinot Noir $13 (12/02) 81  I  2001 Sonoma Coast Pinot Gris $13 (12/02)
Greenwood Ridge Greenwood Ridge has made its reputation above the fogline. Much of its vineyard holdings are in Mendocino Ridge, the first appellation in this country whose lines were drawn based on altitude alone. The firm's remaining vineyards fall within the Anderson Valley, known for bracing whites, and those are a specialty at Greenwood Ridge. Allan Green has been making white wines here since the early eighties, and his riesling, left to hang at an altitude of 1,400 feet, has been a perennial favorite at W&S. It's one of those rare California rieslings that skillfully achieves a balance between fruit and acid with great delicacy. 88  I  2000 Mendocino Ridge White Riesling $12 (8/02) 86  I  2000 Anderson Valley Sauvignon Blanc $13.50 (8/02)
Handley Milla Handley is one of the straightest shooters in the California wine industry. Refreshingly honest and self-effacing, stubbornly independent and eminently talented, it's no wonder she's ended up in the Anderson Valley, home to great, affordable wine and to more than its share of iconoclasts. Handley consistently crafts delicate sparkling wines as well as whites and rosés that offer a cool reminder of Alsace together with fresh, exuberant California fruit. Handley also owns a small vineyard planted to sauvignon blanc and chardonnay in the Dry Creek Valley, which was the source of the 2001 Sauvignon Blanc, a wine brisk with flavors of fig and melon. 89  I  2001 Anderson Valley Gewurztraminer $15 (10/02) 87  I  2001 Dry Creek Valley Handley Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc $14 (4/03) 82  I  2001 Anderson Valley Rosé of Pinot Noir $13 (10/02)
Navarro Navarro has been a W&S Winery of the Year for a few years running now, and even though we've said so before, the value they offer continues to impress us. "Ted just wants people to be able to buy a good bottle of wine - anybody," says Pat Daniels, who's been with the winery since it opened. They can do just that because they sell nearly 75 percent of their production either in the tasting room or by mail; so as wineries across California are forced to lower prices to attract consumers, Navarro can keep theirs as is. It helps to be in Mendocino, where land is not at a premium the way it is in Napa. That essential Mendocino character comes through in wine after wine from Navarro, best characterized by their golden, perfumed gewurztraminer, a wine with heft and layers, offering citrus and nutmeat flavors that would would complement sautéed nettle pasta. 90  I  2001 Anderson Valley Dry Gewurztraminer $15 (12/02) 87  I  2001 Anderson Valley Estate Muscat Blanc $14 (6/03) 87  I  2001 Mendocino Cuvee 128 Sauvignon Blanc $14.50 (12/02) 87  I  2001 Anderson Valley White Riesling $14 (6/03) 86  I  2001 Mendocino Chardonnay $13.50 (4/03) EV  I  2001 Mendocino Table Wine Chardonnay $9.75 (12/02)
Pepi In establishing itself as one of the central players in the 'Cal-Ital' movement - California wine with a focus on Italian varietals - Pepi Winery has always held a firm position on the fringe. The winery came to market with one of the first affordable sangioveses (and one of the few that have remained affordable), as well as barberas, pinot grigios and even a white as far afield as arneis. Chris Johnson makes the wines at Pepi now, bringing winemaking experience from Canada, Chile, Argentina, New York and Virginia - the fringes, in other words, which suggests he should be a good fit. Pepi's Barbera has always spun its rustic charm on our critics; spicy and robust, it's a wine to break out at the next barbecue. 85  I  2000 California Barbera $14 (8/02) 83  I  1999 California Sangiovese $14 (8/02)
Preston It seems odd to take prime vineyard land and plant it to varieties that most people can't pronounce, much less spell - or that have more than one spelling, as is the case with cinsau(l)t. But if there weren't individuals like Lou Preston in this business, the wine world would be a less colorful place. The heat of Dry Creek Valley makes for ripe and heady red wines, and Preston's Barbera and its Rhône-style blend known as 'Faux' have always been solid values. But it was the winery's cinsaut that caught us this year, with its frisky red fruit and furry glove of tannin, a wine for zinfandel lovers who'd like to stretch their horizons a little, without spending a lot. 89  I  2000 Dry Creek Valley Estate Cinsaut $15 (8/02) 84  I  2001 Dry Creek Valley Estate Vin Gris $12 (12/02)
Sebastiani Having made wine for five generations, the folks at Sebastiani know their craft. Indeed, with land under vine in nearly all the important Sonoma sub-appellations - as well as Mission Vineyard, the oldest vineyard land in Northern California (first planted in 1825) - and with extant plantings that go back to 1919, Sebastiani wines represent a living history. But even as Sebastiani has edged its way out to the coastal regions of Sonoma, its wines have stayed as delicious as ever. Their Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir is one of the more genial pinots from this sprawling appellation, gentle and delicate, its fraise de bois flavors darkened by a touch of oak. 92  I  2001 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir $15 (4/03) 87  I  2000 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir $15 (8/02) 83  I  2000 Sonoma County Chardonnay $12.50 (10/02)
Rodney Strong Rodney Strong has one of the more solid, well-established names in Sonoma winemaking, and has offered solid value for most of that time. This is due in part to its substantial land holdings in the Alexander Valley, Russian River and Chalk Hill appellations, bought back in the seventies, Sonoma's wine revival decade. It's also due to the solid footing that is the result of winemaker Rick Sayre's long tenure: thirty-four years and counting. Rodney Strong's Charlotte's Home Sauvignon Blanc has always been one of the more appealing values that the winery offers, a gentle white with a touch of lees and a mineral tang. It's worth mentioning that, though they don't quite make our price cutoff for value wines, most of the Rodney Strong red wines are affordable as well. 86  I  2001 Sonoma County Charlotte's Home Sauvignon Blanc $12 (10/02) 85  I  2001 Sonoma County Chardonnay $14 (6/03)
Tualatin Estate Tualatin Estate was founded in the early seventies by Bill and Virginia Fuller, making it one of the lesser known Oregon pioneer wineries, behind larger personalities like David Lett and Dick Erath. For nearly thirty years the winery has been quietly producing 100 percent estate wines from their 100-plus acres in the northwest corner of the Willamette Valley. Set against the coast range due west of Portland, the cool climate makes their semi-sparkling muscat a frizzante delight. Made in the charmat method and styled after Moscato d'Asti, this refreshing sweet wine, with low alcohol and just a prickle of acidity, makes an ideal dessert on its own or with strawberries and whipped cream. 90  I  2001 Willamette Valley Semi-Sparkling Muscat $15 (8/02) 85  I  2000 Oregon Pinot Blanc $15 (8/02)
Terre Rouge As one of his posters used to state, getting Rhôned is what Bill Easton is all about. He's staked out a claim for Rhône varieties just south of Gold Country in the Sierra Foothills, producing solidly-built wines. In the best you can feel the heat of the land and a ruddy texture that bespeaks the mineral-rich soils of the foothills. Easton compares his Côtes de L'Ouest Syrah to St. Joseph, and the comparison's apt; this is an immediate wine, with red raspberry aromas lined with a little smoke, youthful and ready to pair with just about anything off the grill. 89 I  2000 California Les Côtes de L'Ouest Syrah $15 (10/02) 88  I  2001 Sierra Foothills Tête a Tête Red $13 (6/03)
>> US I $12 and under
Beringer Founder's Estate was conceived in 1998 by Beringer winemaster Ed Sbragia as a line to honor the winery founders, Jacob and Frederick Beringer. It was also meant for everyday enjoyment with the evening meal: easygoing whites; reds made with just enough tannic oomph to measure up to food well. Winemaking for the brand falls to Ron Schrieve, a former singer who came to wine by way of a music scholarship at the University of the Pacific. Our notes across the year describe wines on the lighter side of the fruit spectrum, soft, simple and pleasurable. 86  I  1999 California Founder's Estate Zinfandel $12 (10/02) 81  I  2000 California Founder's Estate Pinot Noir $12 (8/02) 82  I  1999 California Founder's Estate Shiraz $12 (8/02) GV  I  2000 California Founder's Estate Merlot $12 (6/03) GV  I  2001 California Founder's Estate Pinot Noir $12 (6/03)
Chateau Ste. Michelle Chateau Ste. Michelle has been making wines for longer than just about anyone else in Washington. Theirs were some of the first plantings, which means that they've owned or leased their vineyard sites for nearly forty years; additionally, vineyard land in Washington is sold and managed much more cheaply than in California. Taken together, that means that the wines of Ste. Michelle can come in at a fraction of the cost of most California wines. This year we were most impressed by white-winemaker Eric Olsen's pinot gris, new to the Ste. Michelle portfolio, and his clean, minerally gewurztraminer. 83  I  2001 Columbia Valley Pinot Gris $10 (8/02) GV   I  2001 Columbia Valley Gewurztraminer $8 (10/02)
Cline Cline has a long history of vineyard holdings in Contra Costa County, southeast and across the bay from Carneros, where the winery is now located. In Contra Costa the land is cheap and the vines are old, and from those vineyards Cline makes several entries in the $10-and-under category that have been consistent performers. They're zinfandel specialists, and so you'd expect a good zin for less, drawn primarily from old-vine sources - most of the vines are over fifty years old. The white, meanwhile, is a blend of roughly two parts pinot gris and one part chardonnay, and its simple, pleasing, ripe fruit flavors make it an easy drink. EV  I  2001 California Zinfandel $9 (6/03) GV  I  2002 Sonoma County Pinot Gris Chardonnay $9 (6/03)
Eshcol Ranch Do you remember your Old Testament? The land of milk and honey promised there? Well, in that place was a valley called Eshcol, from whence pilgrims carried man-sized grapes as evidence of the bounty of the promised land. The Eshcol brand from Trefethen Vineyards has humbler origins, perhaps - the grapes they use are smaller, at least - making consistent and affordable cabernet and chardonnay since the early eighties, drawing mostly second-pick fruit from their own estate in Oak Knoll, southern Napa. This is straight-on stuff, juicy, simple cabernet and spicy chardonnay, firm enough to stand up to food, approachable enough to stand on its own. 84  I  1999 California Cabernet Sauvignon $12 (2/03) 81  I  2000 California Chardonnay $11.50 (2/03)
Geyser Peak Geyser Peak's white wines aren't so much meant to be drunk as to be soaked up, or basked in, like the sun. These are wines of uncommon directness and simplicity, unabashedly fruit-driven and succulent, a trait they share with some of the better Australian wines - no surprise there, since winemakers Darrell Groom and Mick Schroeter are both veterans of South Australia's Penfolds. "We want fruit to jump out of the glass," says Schroeter. "While barrel fermentation and malolactic are important, they shouldn't be the overriding component in the wines." This year's offerings included a chardonnay that we found to be plump and generous, and a light and honeyed gewurz for chilling on your next picnic. 82  I  2001 Sonoma County Chardonnay $12 (2/03) 81  I  2001 California Gewurztraminer $9 (8/02)
Hogue Washington State's reds, in particular merlot, have garnered a lot of attention and respect in recent vintages, as vines come of age and the talent pool of winemakers grows. But it takes a winery like Hogue, with 60 percent of its production going into white wines - one third of this to riesling alone - to recall how well suited eastern Washington is for growing cool-climate whites. Cool winds from the Cascades give these wines nerve and intensity, a purity of flavor that leads you to believe that the Columbia Valley could start to rival northern Europe for white wines with nerve and elegance, for a song. 88  I  2001 Columbia Valley Gewurztraminer $10 (8/02) 87  I  2001 Columbia Valley Johannisberg Riesling $10 (8/02) 80  I  2001 Columbia Valley Genesis Sangiovese Rosé $12 (2/03)
Montpellier Montpellier is a brand in the Classic Wines stable that has always been styled to reflect varietal character. "We like to make a wine that tastes like the grape," says Ed Moody, who with Jim Perkins has been making the wines for Montpellier since 1989. Most of that fruit is grown in the foothills west of Amador, in East Stanislaus County, a warm area of rolling hills and quick draining sandy loam soils, well-suited to the Rhône-style varieties that we found so appealing. The 2000 syrah is all the way syrah, meaty, inky, and with a grit of tannin well-suited to sausages off the grill. 83  I  2000 California Syrah $6.99 (12/02) 81  I  2001 California Viognier $6.99 (12/02) GV  I  2000 California Viognier $6.99 (12/02)
Pedroncelli The Pedroncelli family has been farming their little corner of the Dry Creek Valley for more than 75 years, having purchased their original 100 or so acres back in 1927 - for $11,000. Such long-term holdings have allowed Pedroncelli to put out simple, affordable wines for several generations; John Pedroncelli, who oversees winemaking, says that each generation has prided itself on providing good juice for a good price. Their best is often zinfandel - the original property included a parcel planted in 1909, which is still eking out fruit in small quantities. 83  I  2000 Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon $12 (10/02) 82  I  2000 Sonoma County Zinfandel $11 (10/02) GV  I  2001 Sonoma County Zinfandel Rosé $8 (8/02)
Silver Ridge Silver Ridge is a Classic Wines of California brand that draws most of its fruit from the Lodi appellation, an inland delta which receives coastal breezes from San Francisco's Bays - it just takes a little more time to get there. Jim Rodriques has been making the wine nearly since the brand's inception in 1991, and is a proponent of oak aging; all the wines are barrel fermented and barrel aged, lending a hint of complexity at a bargain price. Even so, there wasn't a prominent oak presence in the 2000 Viognier - just sweet apple fruit that was pleasingly lean and direct, good chilled for a picnic. 84  I  2000 California Viognier $9.99 (10/02) GV  I  2000 California Cabernet Sauvignon $9.99 (12/02)
Sonoma Creek Winery The current site of Sonoma Creek Winery was once a steamboat embarcadero, the northernmost point of the San Pablo Bay before landfill reset the coastline. Years later it became a working ranch, then was converted to vineyards and a winery in the late seventies. Sonoma Creek's wines blew in for the April tastings at the beginning of this year and almost all of them impressed us. Five of their six value wines, including all of their red wines, were recommended, each with expressive, succulent fruit, less about varietal character than simply about being juicy and delicious. 84  I  1999 Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon $9.99 (4/03) 82  I  2000 California Zinfandel $9.99 (4/03) GV  I  2000 Sonoma County Merlot $9.99 (4/03) GV  I  2000 Carneros Pinot Noir $9.99 (4/03) GV  I  1999 California Syrah $9.99 (4/03)
>> Argentina I $15 and under
Trapiche A regular in this Value Brands of the Year issue, Trapiche is a reliable choice at every level of Argentine wines. Its flagship Iscay may attract the most attention, but you can't go wrong with their basic $7 wines, either, for parties and simple dinners. Want something in-between? Try Broquel, a new label offering varietal wines with all the lip-smacking fruit of the $7 versions, but plumped up with extra flavor and glossed with oak; the 2000 Cabernet is warm and spicy, full of ripe raspberry flavor. These are the wines to pull out when the boss is coming to the barbecue. Imported by Frederick Wildman & Sons, NY 87  I  2000 Mendoza Broquel Cabernet Sauvignon $14.99 (4/03) 86  I  2000 Mendoza Broquel Malbec $14.99 (4/03) 82  I  2002 Mendoza Cabernet Sauvignon $6.99 (2/03)
>> Argentina I $12 and under
Alta Vista Alta Vista brings a little bit of France to Argentina. Run by Patrick d'Aulan of Château Sansonnet in St-Emilion in collaboration with fellow Frenchmen Michel Rolland, Jean-Christophe Mayrou and Benôit Berneron, Alta Vista carries on the vision the late Jean-Michel Arcaute of Château Clinet had when he started the winery in 1997: to recognize the potential of Argentina's abundant sun and fertile foothills, and bring a little je ne sais quoi to its wines. You can taste that factor in the sophistication Alta Vista brings to Argentina's floral torrontés, both alone and in a round, smooth blend with chardonnay and chenin blanc, as well as in the quaffable Cosecha Red, which brings bing cherry brightness to dour, dark malbec. And at $7.99, you'll be saving money to put towards their impressive flagship Alto wines. Imported by Rock Creek Wine Merchants, Bethesda, MD 88  I  2002 Mendoza Premium Torrontés $9.99 (4/03) 86  I  1999 Mendoza Cosecha Red $7.99 (10/02) 84  I  2000 Mendoza Cosecha White $7.99 (10/02)
Alamos Catena has long made a splash with its pricey, top-end wines, and improvements there have consistently raised the level of Alamos, its everyday label. The brand's wines benefit from the talent of Catena's winemaking team, led by José Galante, as well as a state-of-the-art winery opened in the spring of 2001. But credit must also go to former viticulturist Pedro Marchevsky and current vine guru Alejandro Sejanovich for growing grapes that can produce a $10 pinot noir that tastes like pinot noir, not to mention such plush malbec and juicy bonarda, the perfect Southern Hemisphere spaghetti red. Imported by Billington Imports, Springfield, VA 87  I  2001 Mendoza Pinot Noir $10 (12/02) 86  I  2001 Mendoza Malbec $10 (12/02) 82  I  2000 Mendoza Bonarda $10 (12/02) GV  I  2001 Mendoza Bonarda $10 (6/03)
>> Australia I $15 and under
Jacob's Creek With vineyards spread throughout South Australia, from the hot flats of the Riverland to the Barossa hills, and relationships with growers that stretch back decades, Jacob's Creek has a definite advantage when it comes to making great affordable wine. You've no doubt tasted their basic blends at gallery openings, parties and picnics, wines with a value-to-price ratio that can't be beat. But we'd be willing to pay a little extra for their Reserves (still less than $15), whose rich varietal flavors benefit from the extra selection that went into them. Look especially for the riesling - parent company Orlando has been famous for theirs for years - which competes with Australia's best, and wins with its price. Imported by Pernod Ricard USA, White Plains, NY 90  I  2001 South Australia Reserve Riesling $14.99 (2/03) 89  I  2000 South Australia Reserve Shiraz $13.99 (6/03) 89  I  2002 South Australia Reserve Riesling $14.99 (2/03) GV  I  2001 South Eastern Australia Cabernet Sauvignon $9.49 (6/03) GV  I  2001 South Eastern Australia Shiraz $8.49 (6/03)
Penfolds Penfolds may be most famous for Grange, but its reputation was built on Koonunga Hill. These wines show off the best aspects of South Australia's sun, wind and warmth, offering juicy fruit and bright, fresh flavors that are as welcome at a beach barbecue in Oz as they are in an American backyard, with cheeseburgers off the grill. When the occasion calls for more pizzazz, you don't have to shell out much more for the Thomas Hyland wines, named for Dr. Penfold's son-in-law. The chardonnay, aged in French oak, offers juicy Australian fruit with alluring restraint; the cabernet, sourced mostly from Coonawarra, brings an ironstone minerality to its lean peppery fruit, for just $15. Imported by Southcorp Wines, The Americas, Napa, CA 87  I  2001 South Australia Thomas Hyland Cabernet Sauvignon $15 (6/03) 82  I  2000 South Eastern Australia Koonunga Hill Shiraz Cabernet $11 (2/03) EV  I  2001 South Australia Koonunga Hill Chardonnay $9.99 (2/03)
>> Australia I $12 and under
Rosemount Estate Rosemount almost defines the term "Aussie good drink" with its easy-going blends and varietals. Check out the Traminer-Riesling when you're looking for something light to sip on its own on a hot day; pull out the Chard-Sem (as it's known to fans) when there's chicken on the menu, be it roast or southern-fried. The single-variety blends offer varietal character without any pretension: just good, clean fruit for under $10. Imported by Southcorp Wines, The Americas, Napa, CA 82  I  2001 South Eastern Australia Semillon $9.99 (2/03) EV  I  2002 South Eastern Australia Traminer Riesling $8.99 (2/03) EV  I  2002 South Eastern Australia Chardonnay Semillon $8.99 (2/03) EV  I  2001 South Eastern Australia Sauvignon Blanc $9.99 (2/03) EV  I  2000 South Eastern Australia Cabernet Sauvignon $10.99 (2/03)
Yalumba Yalumba's single-vineyard wines won it a place as a Winery of the Year in our Annual Buying Guide, and their more affordable wines hold up their end, too. There seems to be no grape winemaker Brian Walsh doesn't do well, judging from the whites and reds recommended below. The riesling is a bargain in a category whose prices have skyrocketed since Australian riesling became so cool; the merlot and shiraz offer more plush fruit than their price warrants, as well. And Oxford Landing, which is a real landing on the Murray River, grows the sorts of wines that you'd be happy to buy by the case when you find them on sale. Imported by Negociants U.S.A., Napa, CA 85  I  2002 South Australia Riesling $9.99 (2/03) 82  I  2001 South Australia Merlot $9.99 (2/03) 82  I  2001 South Australia Shiraz $9.99 (2/03) EV  I  2002 South Australia Oxford Landing Sauvignon Blanc $8.99 (2/03) GV  I  2001 South Australia Oxford Landing Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz $8.99 (2/03)
>> Chile I $15 and under
Concha y Toro Concha y Toro made its name with value-priced wines. And though the 120-year-old winery has climbed up the prestige ladder to partner with the Rothschilds in Almaviva, their Chilean joint venture, it still excels at affordable, everyday wines. Look to Sunrise and Frontera for single varietals and blends at rock-bottom prices, and Xplorador to begin to get a sense of Chilean terroir. And if you can afford the few extra bucks, check out what Marcelo Papa has done with the wines in the midrange Casillero del Diablo and Marqués de Casa Concha lines. Each is a model of its variety, made complex and impressive by the sense of place its flavors radiate. Buy by the case; with the Puente Alto Cabernet, you may even want to put some down. Imported by Banfi Vintners, Old Brookville, NY 87  I  2001 Rapel Valley Casillero del Diablo Carmenère $10 (2/03) 87  I  2000 Maipo Marqués de Casa Concha Puente Alto Cabernet Sauvignon $14 (12/02) 86  I  2002 Central Valley Casillero del Diablo Sauvignon Blanc $10 (2/03) 84  I  2001 Rapel Valley Casillero del Diablo Merlot $10 (2/03) 84  I  2001 Central Valley Casillero del Diablo Cabernet Sauvignon $10 (2/03)
Errézuriz Who says South America can't make good white wine? Take a place like Casablanca, with intense sun countered by the coolness of altitude, throw in some good winemaking, and any doubts you had will soon be gone. If you want proof, just check out Errézuriz's Estate Chardonnay, a fresh, juicy take on the grape, refreshingly unhindered by oak. Or chill a bottle of the Fumé Blanc, a cool, clean, green sauvignon with an edge of delicacy. Both are the kinds of wines you'll want to have on hand all summer long, not to mention any time seafood is served. And if meat's on the menu, pick up some of the Estate Cabernet, a claret-style red with lively cherry fruit that could stand in for a baby Bordeaux. Imported by RM Imports, Napa, CA 89  I  2000 Aconcagua Valley Estate Cabernet Sauvignon $10 (8/02) 89  I  2001 Casablanca Valley Estate Chardonnay $10 (8/02) 84  I  2000 Casablanca Valley Fume' Blanc $10 (8/02)
Morandé Pablo Morandé started his brand only seven years ago, but he's already well on his way to becoming a household name in Chilean wine. His twenty years at Concha y Toro gave him a definite advantage when it comes knowledge of Chilean vineyards, and his enthusiasm has pushed him to continue exploring Chile's possibilities. But that isn't surprising from the man credited with discovering Casablanca's potential as a cooler-climate growing region, as Morandé's Terrarum Reserve Sauvignon Blanc shows: Its ripe green fruit flavors, dynamic spice and gentle florality place it as one of the country's best. The reds from his "terroir" line, Vitisterra, aren't bad, either, with a fragrant and juicy merlot, a gracious cabernet and a zesty syrah rounding out the offerings. Imported by Morandé USA, Kennesaw, GA 92  I  2002 Casablanca Valley Terrarum Reserve Sauvignon Blanc $10.99 (2/03) 90  I  2001 Maipo Valley Vitisterra Grand Reserve Syrah $14.99 (2/03) 88  I  2001 Maipo Valley Vitisterra Grand Reserve Merlot $14.99 (6/03) 87  I  2000 Maipo Valley Vitisterra Grand Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon $14.99 (6/03) GV  I  2001 Central Valley Chardonnay $6.99 (6/03)
>> Chile I $12 and under
Santa Rita Santa Rita offers some stiff competition in the land of affordable wine, with its 120 line of clean, quaffable varietals. But pay a little more, just $12, and you'll have wines that can hold their own with bottles twice the price. The stand-outs this year were the chardonnay and sauvignon blanc, both from Casablanca Valley. The cooler climate gives them extra oomph in the acidity department, propelling their mouthwatering fruit to every corner of the mouth. For reds, check out Medalla Real, one of Maipo's Super Seconds featured in Patricio Tapia's article on page 58. Imported by Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL 92  I  2002 Casablanca Valley Reserva Sauvignon Blanc $12 (6/03) 90  I  2002 Casablanca Valley Reserva Chardonnay $12 (6/03) GV  I  2002 Maipo Valley 120 Chardonnay $8  (6/03)
Veramonte Sauvignon blanc and Veramonte have nearly become synonymous in Chile, as the company does so well with it. Much of the credit for that success lies with Rafael Tirado, winemaker here since 1997. When he arrived, the white wine focus had been on chardonnay, as it was in many parts of the valley back in the early nineties, when Agustin Huneeus first started planting vines here. Back then, nobody could predict what would grow best here, as there were only 100 acres of vines in the ground. But Tirado recognized the potential in this warmer corner of cool Casablanca for a rich sauvignon style, and he's been turning out exceptional, fruit forward wines ever since. Not to mention the lush, plummy cabernet sauvignon he's making from Maipo. Imported by Franciscan Estate Selections, Rutherford, CA 89  I  2002 Casablanca Valley Sauvignon Blanc $10 (6/03) 88  I  2001 Maipo Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $10 (6/03)
>> France I $15 and under
Georges Duboeuf The "King of Beaujolais" didn't get his nickname for nothing. It's not just that Georges Dubouef ships over 20 million bottles of wine a year, nor that he masterminded the wildly successful Beaujolais Nouveau scheme. It's that he's able to offer such an array of delicious wines at such reasonable prices. Check out the cru wines, each with its own distinct character, from the gentle St-Amour to the brawny Brouilly. And stop at each domaine, where individual vineyards lend their own complexities to the wines. Duboeuf offers one-stop shopping, with wines for every occasion from turkey sandwiches to four-star French cuisine. Imported by W.J. Deutsch & Sons, Harrison, NY 89  I  2001 Moulin-à-Vent $11.49 (10/02) 88  I  2001 Brouilly Grande Cuvée $11.49 (10/02) 87  I  2000 Morgon Prestige $11.49 (8/02) 86  I  2001 Fleurie Domaine des Quatre Vents $13.99 (4/03) 84  I  2000 Fleurie Prestige $12.99 (8/02) 83  I  2001 Macon-Villages Chardonnay $9.99 (4/03) 82  I  2000 Brouilly Prestige $11.49 (8/02) 82  I  2001 Brouilly Château de Nervers $11.99 (4/03) 82  I  2001 St-Amour $13.49 (10/02)
Pierre Sparr Excellent Alsace wines for $15 or less? It's not an illusion, though it sure sounds like one. The Sparr name is an old one in Alsace, dating back to 1680. But it was Pierre Sparr who brought the winery to prominence, after he rebuilt it from the ruins left by World War Two. Today, vineyard manager Charles Sparr and winemaker Pierre Jr. keep up the name with textbook examples of Alsace varieties and terroir. The 2001 Muscat Réserve is muscat, simple and delicate for pike; the pinots gris have the spice and verve most pinot grigios never achieve. Then there are the gewurztraminers, heady, floral, spicy, almost over the top - and ever so ready for choucroute, boudin blanc, or a Moroccan tagine. Drink up and feel smug for finding these wines at such a great price. Imported by W.J. Deutsch & Sons, Harrison, NY 93  I  2001 Alsace Réserve Gewurztraminer $14.99 (12/02) 89  I  2001 Alsace Pinot Gris $12.99 (12/02) 89  I  2001 Alsace Gewurztraminer $12.99 (12/02) 85  I  2001 Alsace Réserve Pinot Gris $14.99 (12/02) 83  I  2001 Alsace Réserve Muscat $12.99 (12/02) 82  I  2001 Alsace Réserve Riesling $12.99 (12/02)
>> France I $12 and under
Château Val Joanis Want a taste of Southern France? Check out Château Val Joanis. The estate, located where the Southern Rhône nears Provence, dates to ancient Roman times, though Jean-Louis Chancel only discovered it in 1977. He set out to rebuild the fallen villa and reclaim 445 acres of vines from the forest, all along keeping in mind the history of the place. He chose to farm organically and neither fine nor filter the wines; while the grounds look to be straight out of ancient times, they have all the modern amenities. The wines offer a similar contrast, with a sophisticated modern sensibility and a pleasing rusticity all at once. The nutty, mineral-laden white will match sea bass or a country pork pâte; the spicy and earthy red deserves a crown roast or lamb cooked on a spit. And the light, sprightly rosé? Drink it anytime the urge comes on. For $9.99, it's an affordable vice. Imported by Pasternak Wine Imports, Greenwich, CT 86  I  2001 Côtes du Lubéron Rosé $9.99 (10/02) 85  I  2000 Côtes du Lubéron Rouge $9.99 (6/03) 84  I  2001 Côtes du Lubéron Blanc $9.99 (10/02) 84  I  2002 Côtes du Lubéron Blanc $9.99 (6/03)
Perrin et Fils Love Châteauneuf-du-Pape but can't afford it? Join the club. That's why we look to the Perrins for their Côtes du Rhône Réserves. With Jean-Pierre and Fran¨ois Perrin of Château Beaucastel at the helm, these wines travel far beyond generic Côtes du Rhône. The red, largely sourced from the Perrins' organic vineyards at Château Grand Prebois, just outside Châteauneuf, has all the sappy sweetness that makes good grenache so appetizing, with a syrah-mourvèdre-cinsault component bringing up the dry, mouthwatering finish. The blanc may not be Beaucastel's revered old-vine roussanne, but with its almondy, mineral-filled flavors and peachy fruit, it's a close relative - and at $10.99, it's about an eighth of the price. Imported by Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL 88  I  2001 Côtes du Rhône Blanc Réserve $10.99 (10/02) 86  I  2000 Côtes du Rhône Rouge Réserve $10.99 (10/02)
>> France I $8 and under
Vichon Want variety and a taste of France without having to empty your pocketbook? With 500 grape growers covering some 6,200 acres of land, it's no wonder Vichon can put out an example of every major varietal wine for less than $10 a bottle. The Vignerons du Sieur d'Arques, as they call themselves, banded together into 1946 to raise the visibility and esteem of their home region, Limoux. From this base in the southwest of Languedoc-Roussillon, they work with a variety of terroirs: what they refer to as terroir oceanic, cooled and kept humid by Atlantic breezes; terroir haute-vallée, in the warm, rocky foothills of the Pyrenees; terroir d'autan, hot, dry, gravelly soil in Limoux central; and the arid terroir Mediterranéen. With these different climates, Vichon produces a sweetly ripe yet brightly acidic sauvignon blanc and a violet-scented viognier as well as they do dark, spicy, tannic reds like the 2001 Cabernet. Imported by Shaw-Ross Int'l., Miami, FL 86  I  2001 Vin de Pays d'Oc Sauvignon Blanc $7.99 (10/02) 83  I  2001 Vin de Pays d'Oc Viognier $7.99 (10/02) GV  I  2001 Vin de Pays d'Oc Cabernet Sauvignon $7.99 (10/02)
>> Greece I $15 and under
Boutari Seven times a W&S Import Winery of the Year, and for the past two years a Value Brand of the Year, Boutari is a name to depend on for Greek wine at any level. With a crack staff led by 27-year veteran Yiannis Voyatzis, vineyards and wineries all over the country, and an extensive research team combing over Greece's land and grapes for the right combinations, the company hits gold wherever it goes. Try the Nemea for the perfect, juicy summer red; taste the Moschofilero for a textbook example of what Mantinia does best. Check out the plump, peachy Santorini for an inkling of what that island white can be; save your pennies to work up to their reserve versions, which recall Chablis in structure and minerality. Beyond these successes, Boutari is most at home in the north, where they started. Here, you'll find cassis-centered Goumenissas and rose-scented Naoussas that will age like cru Barolo - at no more than $14.99. Imported by Paterno Wines Int'l., Lake Bluff, IL 90  I  1997 Naoussa Grande Reserve $14.99 (8/02) 88  I  2000 Goumenissa $11.49 (8/02) 88  I  2000 Nemea $9.99 (8/02) 87  I  2001 Mantinia Moschofilero $13.49 (8/02) 84  I  2001 Santorini $11.99 (8/02)
>> Greece I $12 and under
Kourtaki This is the seventh year Kourtaki has earned a Value Brand of the Year award, and no wonder: there's something here for every situation. Start with the athiri, a little-known grape, from the Aegean islands when you want a light, tangy white before dinner; move on to the rich, leesy assyrtiko from Santorini when the fish dish comes in. Pour Kourtaki's juicy agiorgitko whenever there's beef on the menu, or even when you just want a soft, easy glass of red. And to end, savor the dessert wines, for which they are rightly famous: a golden muscat of Samos, its yellow raisin sweetness enough to make the head spin, or the deep, dark Mavrodaphne of Patras, Greece's equivalent to Port at a fraction of the price. Imported by Nestor Imports, NY 88  I  2000 Santorini Assyrtiko $11 (8/02) 86  I  Mavrodaphne of Patras $7.50 (8/02) 85  I  Samos Muscat $8 (8/02) 83  I  2000 Aegean Islands Athiri $8 (8/02) GV  I  1999 Nemea Agiorgitiko $11 (8/02)
Tsantali Want a taste of tradition? Look to Tsantali, a respected old name in Greek wine. That doesn't necessarily mean Retsina, though if you like that pine-scented wine, Tsantali's is good and refreshing. It means ancient grapes from time-honored places, and prices that seemingly never rise. Northern Greece is Tsantali's home and stronghold, though the company also manages a very tasty, plum-filled Nemea from the Peloponnese. More interesting though are the earthy Makedonikos reds, and the bright, herbal flavors of the grenache-limnio blend. And don't miss the Naoussa "Imiglykos," where a little bit of sweetness left in the wine curbs the rustic tannins of its grapes. It recalls a Venetian recioto, but costs only $7.50. Imported by Fantis Imports, Carlstadt, NJ 86  I  Retsina $3.99 (8/02) 86  I  2000 Naoussa Imiglykos $7.50 (8/02) 84  I  2000 Agioritikos Grenache-Limnio Mount Athos Vineyards $12 (8/02) GV  I  2001 Agioritikos Assyrtiko-Athiri Mount Athos Vineyards $10 (8/02) GV  I  2000 Makedonikos Red $6.95 (8/02) GV  I  1998 Makedonikos Wine of Alexander the Great $7.95 (8/02) GV  I  1998 Naoussa $6.99 (8/02) GV  I  1998 Nemea Agiorgitiko $5.99 (8/02)
>> Italy I $15 and under
Leone di Castris Puglia is a hotbed of value-priced wine - but there's value and there's Value with a capital V. Leone di Castris would be in the latter camp, a stalwart of private Puglian wine production since the early 1900s. The family firm built its reputation on its spicy, tangy Five Roses rosé, but we were most struck by the deep, juicy reds they make from native grape varieties. Check out the Santera Primitivo, whose raspy raspberry flavors and licorice spice make for a juicy mouthful, and an evocative taste of the place. Or opt for the deeper, bittersweet pleasure of a negroamaro, as in the meaty, foresty Salice Salentino Riserva. It's such a big wine it could use some time in the cellar, which is why it's a good idea to stock up on the Maiana in the meantime, a crowd-pleasing Salice Salentino filled with lip-smacking cherry-vanilla tastes. Imported by A.V. Imports, Columbia, MD 89  I  1999 Primitivo di Manduria Santera $14.99 (6/03) 88  I  1999 Salice Salentino Riserva $12.99 (6/03) 85  I  2001 Salice Salentino Maiana $8.99 (6/03)
Mionetto We tend to reserve sparkling wine for special occasions, but why wait when there's excellent bubbly for less than $15? Mionetto, a century-old company based in the heart of Prosecco production, Valdobbiadene, makes some of Italy's most consistent sparklers, in styles to suit different tastes. The bright, delicate Il Prosecco is perfect for apertivi, or as a base for Bellinis when white peaches come to market; the Brut's bigger, fruitier flavors can carry over to the dinner table, especially when the first course highlights scallops wrapped in bacon or other rich dishes. Then there are the dinner wines, a savory, high-acid Extra Dry and a vintage Spumante from the Valdobbiadene. With fine, foamy texture and bone-dry almond flavors, the latter is as sophisticated as it gets for $12. Imported by Mionetto USA, NY 86  I  Prosecco Brut $11 (8/02) 85  I  Il Prosecco $10 (8/02) 84  I  2000 Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Spumante $12 (8/02) 82  I  Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Extra Dry $14.99 (4/03)
>> Italy I $12 and under
Apollonio Why Southern Italy remains so overlooked in the US is a mystery when there are wines like Apollonio's on the shelves at such winning prices. These aren't simple, soulless quaffers made from international grapes, nor are they so traditional as to taste more of sun and cement tanks than of the grapes that fermented in them. Rather, they're exceptionally delicious reds, rich in the flavors of Southern Italy. Take the Salice Salentino for barbecued ribs: with sweet cassis flavors and a bitter, herbal edge, it's the right balance for rich, smoky foods. Opt for the dense, purple Primitivo when it comes to stuffed eggplant. And when it's time to get fancy with beef cheek ravioli or oxtail ragù, blow a whole $8.99 on the '98 Copertino. Its spicy, dry tannins and sweet dried-cherry flavors offer the allure of Amarone without the breathtaking price. Imported by Vin Divino, Chicago, IL 86  I  1998 Copertino $8.99 (8/02) 85  I  1998 Salento Terragnolo Primitivo $9.99 (8/02) 83  I  1998 Salice Salentino $8.99 (8/02)
Avignonesi Check this out: affordable wines from a cult wine producer in Tuscany. The Falvo brothers brought this winery up to speed and beyond when they took over in 1974; since then, they've managed to create an almost mythical Tuscan merlot, Desiderio; a much-talked about but rarely seen Vin Santo; and Vini Nobile di Montepulciano that have reestablished some of the region's former esteem. But just as impressive is a mineral-filled Tuscan chardonnay for a reasonable price. Pour it with roast veal and the guests will never guess it cost less than $10. Even more striking is an $11 Tuscan Rosso that manages all the delicious, tangy cherry flavor of sangiovese and structure enough to make it last long in the mouth - though short in the glass, as it goes down so easily. It's the sort of wine equally at home with a plate of spaghetti as it is with lamb chops on a special birthday. Imported by Dalla Terra, Napa, CA 88  I  2000 Rosso di Toscana Rosso $10.99 (4/03) 85  I  2001 Toscana Chardonnay $9.99 (4/03)
Castello Banfi