Wine&Spirits Magazine - Current Issue

June 2008	Green Papaya Salad
illustration by Rose Forshall	from Bordega Bistro, San Franscico Serves 4 1 green papaya (about 1/2 pound) 10 fresh basil leaves 10 Vietnamese mint leaves 1 cup water 1/2 cup white vinegar 1/2 tablespoon honey 1/2 tablespoon sugar Salt Hot chile sauce (Sriracha) Crushed peanuts Diced beef jerkey* Peel and shred the papaya with a papaya shredder* or grater; discard the seeds. Put the shreds in a large bowl. Coarsely chop the basil and mint leaves and add to the papaya. In a separate bowl, mix the water, vinegar, honey, sugar and a pinch of salt. Pour over the papaya and toss well. To serve, put the salad on each of four plates and top with chile sauce, peanuts and beef jerky. *Asian-style beef jerky is available in Asian food stores. Papaya shredders are available at importfoods.com.

June 2008	Jamón Ibérico di Bellota
illustration by Rose Forshall	Pan y tomates 4 thick slices country bread, lightly toasted 2 garlic cloves, peeled 2 ripe plum tomatoes, cut in half crosswise Extra-virgin olive oil Coarse sea salt Spanish ham, olives and Marcona almonds (see Note) Rub the bread with the garlic. Then rub the bread with the tomatoes. Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with salt. Serve with Spanish ham, olives and Marcona almonds. Jamón di Bellota can be mail-ordered from latienda.com and despanabrandfoods.com

June 2008	Cabbage Salad
illustration by Rose Forshall	from Café Katja, New York 4 cups thinly shredded red cabbage 1 tart green apple, unpeeled, julienned or grated 1/2 cup walnuts, toasted 2 tablespoons lingonberry preserves 1/2 cup lingonberry vinaigrette (recipe follows) Salt and pepper In a large bowl, combine the cabbage with the apple, walnuts, preserves and vinaigrette, reserving a few walnuts and some apple julienne for garnish. Let the salad stand at room temperature until the cabbage wilts, 3 to 4 minutes, then taste and season with salt, pepper, vinaigrette or preserves. Strew salad with reserved walnuts and apple and serve. Lingonberry Vinaigrette 1 1/2 tablespoons Dijon mustard 1 1/2 tablespoons lingonberry preserves 1 1/2 tablespoons red wine vinegar Salt 1/2 to 1 cup canola oil In a medium bowl, whisk together the mustard with the preserves, vinegar and a little salt. Add the oil in a thin stream, blending until emulsified. Taste and adjust seasoning.

June 2008	Chimichurri
illustration by Rose Forshall	from Palacio Duhau-Park Hyatt, Buenos Aires 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 red bell pepper, roasted, peeled, seeded and diced 1 small chile, finely chopped 1/2 cup water 1/4 cup white wine vinegar 2 garlic cloves, chopped 1/2 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley leaves 1 tablespoon coarse salt 1 teaspoon ground black pepper 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1 tablespoon dried oregano 1 teaspoon chopped bay leaf 1 teaspoon chopped thyme 1 tablespoon crushed red pepper flakes In a medium skillet, heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Add the bell pepper and cook over moderate heat until softened. In another skillet, combine the remaining 7 tablespoons of olive oil with the chile and warm over moderate heat. In a small saucepan, combine the water with the vinegar, garlic, parsley, salt, black pepper, cumin, oregano, bay leaf, thyme and red pepper flakes and simmer until the liquid is reduced by half. Add the bell pepper and chile oil and let stand at room temperature for at least two hours or overnight to develop flavor. The sauce can be refrigerated for up to five days.

June 2008	Souvlaki
illustration by Rose Forshall	from Greece Serves 4 For Meat: 1 1/2 pounds boneless pork shoulder, cut into 1-inch cubes 1/2 cup olive oil 1/4 cup red wine vinegar 2 garlic cloves, minced 2 tablespoons dried Greek oregano 1 teaspoon coarse sea salt Freshly ground pepper A day or two ahead: Thread the meat onto 4 large metal skewers. Place them in a single layer in a large glass baking pan. In a medium bowl, whisk the olive oil with the vinegar, garlic, oregano, salt and pepper. Pour over the pork and refrigerate, turning the skewers occasionally. Thirty minutes before cooking, remove the skewers from fridge to come to room temperature. For Condiments: 4 thick, fluffy pitas ("pocketless") 2 ripe tomatoes, sliced 1 medium red onion, thinly sliced 1 cucumber, peeled and diced Tzatziki (recipe follows) Preheat the grill or broiler. When hot, add the meat skewers and cook until lightly charred, turning to cook all sides and basting with the remaining marinade. Warm the bread lightly (do not toast). Remove the bread and meat from the grill. To serve, remove the meat from the skewers. Holding the pita in one hand, fill it with the meat and top with tomato, onion and diced cucumber and douse with tzatziki. Roll it up as tightly as possible and eat out of hand, being careful not to get sauce on your clothes. Have lots of napkins and plenty of Kourtaki Vin de Crete or other simple, juicy, affordable Greek red on hand. For Tzatziki: 2 garlic cloves 1 16-ounce container Greek yogurt (such as Fage) 3 mint sprigs Grate the garlic using a microplane. Add it to a large bowl. Stir in the yogurt. Tear the mint into tiny pieces and add to the yogurt. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours before serving.

February 2007	Slow-Roasted Lamb Shoulder
photograph by Lara Hata	from A16, San Francisco Serves six 1 7-8 pound boneless lamb shoulder 2 bunches Italian flat-leaf parsley, ends mostly removed 1 sprig sage, leaves only 1 sprig rosemary, leaves only 3 ounces salt-packed capers, rinsed and drained well 2 ounces salt-packed anchovies, rinsed and drained well 2 ounces garlic 3 tablespoons kosher salt 1 cup extra virgin olive oil This recipe works best if prepared 2 days in advance. First, salt the lamb shoulder generously. Next, combine all the other ingredients in a food processor and pulse to form a paste. Rub this paste into the salted lamb and refrigerate for 2 days. To cook, preheat oven to 300°F. Place the lamb in a casserole with a lid and cook for 4 to 5 hours, or until tender and beginning to fall apart. At this point, you can serve the lamb immediately or allow to cool to serve at a later date. To serve, reheat (if applicable) and allow the surface to become brown and crispy. A16 serves the lamb with a simple salad of shaved fennel, thinly sliced radishes, and parsley leaf dressed with lemon and olive oil.

February 2007	Meatballs
photograph by Lara Hata	from A16, San Francisco Makes about 30 small meatballs 2 pounds pork, lamb and/or beef ¼ pound prosciutto ends or pork fat 1¼ teaspoons salt 1 teaspoon chile flakes 1½ pounds bread, torn into rough pieces ½ bunch parsley, leaves only, chopped ½ cup ricotta 4 eggs 2 to 4 tablespoons milk 1 quart tomato sauce Cube the meats and prosciutto or pork fat. Add the salt, chile flakes and bread, and run through a meat grinder. (Or, have your butcher grind the meats; process the bread in a food processor until it's in rough crumbs.) In a large bowl, mix the parsley, ricotta and eggs into the meat mixture with your hands, mixing well. If the mixture is too stiff, add a bit of milk. Heat the oven to 425°F. Warm the sauce in a large pot. Form the meat into balls and place on a baking sheet. Roast until golden and cooked through (time depends on size.) Add the meatballs to the sauce and simmer for 30 minutes to an hour. Spoon into deep bowls and serve.

February 2007	Pulled Pork
photograph by Lara Hata	from Taylor's Refresher, St. Helena and San Francisco Serves 8 to 12 For Sauce: 3 cups tomato paste 2 cups brown sugar 2 cups red wine vinegar ¼ cup soy sauce ¼ cup Worcestershire sauce 5 chipotle peppers in adobo sauce, minced ¼ cup ground coriander seed ¼ cup ground cumin ½ cup honey 2 tablespoons salt For Pork: 5 yellow onions, sliced 1 cinnamon stick 1 5-6 pound bone-in pork shoulder In a large bowl, mix together all the ingredients for the sauce. Preheat the oven to 300°F. In a deep pan, spread out the sliced onions. Place the pork shoulder on top of the onions with the fat side facing up. Pour the sauce over the pork and add the cinnamon stick. Cover the pan with foil and cook for 8 to 10 hours, until the pork is falling off the bone. Remove the pork from the pan. Remove the cinnamon stick and any bones, pieces of meat and gristle from the sauce. Pour the remaining sauce and onions into a blender and blend until smooth. Set aside to cool. When the meat is cool enough to handle, pull the pork clean of the fat and bone. To serve, reheat the meat in a bit of the sauce and pile on top of a toasted bun with coleslaw.

February 2007	Pancetta-Stuffed Quail
photograph by Lara Hata	Serves 4 3 ounces pancetta 8 quail 16 sprigs thyme, leaves only 1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary olive oil salt & pepper Preheat the oven to 425°F. Slice the pancetta thinly. Put it in a large sauté pan over medium heat and cook until slightly crisp. Turn the heat off, remove the pancetta to a bowl but leave the fat. Toss the pancetta with thyme and rosemary and then stuff it into the birds. Rub the birds with olive oil, salt and pepper. Reheat the sauté pan and add the quail, browning on all sides. Transfer the pan to the oven to finish the quail, about 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from the oven and let the birds rest for five minutes, covered loosely with foil. Then serve with polenta or risotto.