Critics' Picks 2008Twelve young sommeliers and wine retailers arrived at L.A.'s Osteria Mozza this spring for the first annual W&S Critics' Picks tasting.
They turned up to taste more than 90 wines, pre–selected by the magazine's critics as their personal favorites for exceptional value.Mozza is a bright and airy space, with plush leather booths, dark wood wine racks, and a glistening mozzarella bar by the main entrance. We arranged the wines by style in the private dining room and poured them tableside in the adjacent, sun–filled patio room.
Some of the tasters arrived in suit and tie; others were more casually dressed in T–shirts and jeans. It was an interesting cast of characters: Randy Clement, the bearded co–owner of Silverlake wine store, wore a zipped–up jacket and black baseball cap turned backwards over his long black hair; Jason Marvin, from Pike & Western in Seattle, was sporting a shaggy ponytail do; Eduardo Porto Carreiro, the Brazilian–born sommelier from Grace in Los Angeles, really knew how to work the charm.
We tasted through the wines, talking about what makes them such compelling buys and how we might serve them at home. Some were big hits for their price–value (a Côtes du Rhône from Mont–Redon or a Nebbiolo d'Alba from Damilano), some for their geek–value (a pineau d'Aunis from Thierry Puzelat—a heady rush of bright berry flavor and white pepper spice from a wine none of the sommeliers had ever tasted before). Others were just the sort of everyday wines these guys drink themselves (the Quinta da Aveleda Vinho Verde or the Qupé Syrah). Everyone had their individual preferences, but there were some obvious standouts, among them Agrapart's 7 Crus, an old–vine Champagne grown from all seven villages in the Cotes de Blancs, a St. Joseph from Philippe Faury and a racy grüner from Schloss Gobelsburg's pebbly Steinsetz vineyard. Here are our notes on the wines, many of which we'll be pouring at our Hot Picks events, which will take place in Los Angeles in May and Seattle in June. Our tasting team of local sommeliers and retailers has continued to grow since that day in Los Angeles, and we've included comments from a few other young wine professionals who will be joining us at the events—they'll all be there, with some of their own favorite wines in tow. —Nicole Drummer Click here to purchase tickets to the HOTPICKS Event on May 22 in Los Angeles. |
Photos by Jen Munkvold
Here is this week's selection of critics' picks with comments from the tasting at Mozza.
For a complete list of all the critics' picks, please scroll down the page.
Crisp White
Aveleda
2006 Vinho Verde Quinta da Aveleda $8
"This was my summer porch wine growing up and in college. I used to have an endless supply. It’s so inviting, so bright and green in the clear glass…it’s one of the world’s most unpretentious wines you’ll come across."
—E. Porto Carreiro
"This has such low alcohol. People are getting tired of all of those in-your-face wines. Vinho Verde… it’s really an up and coming category. It’s sort of a catchy name—it’s easy to drink, easy to remember, easy to say; it’s the sort of wine people want to be in the know about. I’m from New Orleans and would love it with a po’ boy." —R. Clement
"Or with an ahi tuna salad." —Rob Pierce
Palacio de Fefiñanes
2006 Rias Baixas Albariño de Fefiñanes $23
"I like this producer a lot. The wine seems greener in this vintage, without the usual tropical fruit. It would go well with lighter, sashimi-style dishes." —Eric Railsback
"Or with white fish in a ponzu sauce"
—Eiji Moro
"This is complex and unctuous—albariño at its best. A great partner for scallops."
—Patricio Tapia
Domaine de la Pepière
2005 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine
Granite de Clisson $22
"This is the first vintage of Granite de Clisson, a sort of "grand cru" of Muscadet from the granite soils of the Massiv Armoricain, and it shows its breed in its subtle fruit and firm, flinty minerality. It should age for a good 20 years—how many Muscadets can you say that about?" —T.Q. Thomas
"It’s got a real brininess. It would go with anything light that has a lot of minerality."
—E. Railsback
"Grab an oyster, grab a glass, and go to town." —Alex Weil
Gaia
2007 Santorini Thalassitis $25
"Santorini has become one of my go-to wines for summer and Gaia’s is one of the best. It’s a little citrusy and a lot of mineral—what you might expect from a volcanic Greek isle." —Josh Greene
"To me this totally a fish—smelt and olives—wine." —J. Heber
"Something that reminds me of fresh ocean water...Briny, sea shell minerality. Very dry and clean, great with fresh Kumamoto oysters or cedar-smoked salmon." — N. Daquip
Feudi di San Gregorio
2006 Sannio Falanghina $18
"It’s floral, with an astringent finish—that soft, coating mouthfeel. This is definitely an aperitif wine, great with cured meats."
—J. Kosseff
"I’d drink it with simply prepared fish. There’s fresh halibut hitting Seattle now."
—J. Marvin
"This is full of invigorating lemon zest, almond and white stone fruit flavors—delicious with mozzarella di bufala and heirloom tomatoes." —Nicole Drummer
Marco Porello
2006 Roero Arneis Camestri $16
"Marco Porello is a young winemaker in Piedmont’s Roero, where his family has tended vines for generations. Camestri is his top site for arneis, a vineyard that gives a lot of complexity to what is often a simple white wine." —W. Weber
"I would classify this as a steely wine. It’s got a salty quality—almost like the salty taste you find in pilsner beer. It would really go well with something from the sea, like some crudo with fleur de sel." —E. Porto Carreiro
"Or a salty fish, like a brandade, some bacalao." —R. Clement
Bucci
2006 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
Classico Superiore $22
"Italy’s best white grape. Refreshing, lemony, nutty. A perfect aperitivo. To me, if there’s a path to quality white in Italy, verdicchio is on it." —J. Heber
"Have that with your Copper River salmon." —J. Marvin
Bastianich
2006 Colli Orientali del Friuli
Tocai Friulano $17
"You know the flavor of star fruit, the skin? This has that." —R. Pierce
"There’s a bit of an herbal quality, like dried herbs, celery leaf, a foliage quality. Friuli has been so cutting edge for the past several years and when you taste a wine like this you can see they haven’t let up."—R. Clement
"In Brazil we make a drink where you just open a passion fruit and let it drip into a glass of rum and at the end there’s almost a fruitlike quality from the seeds. This wine has a quality like that, a bitterness. It’s the sort of wine to have with some crusty bread and prosciutto or dry cheese drizzled with some really good olive oil. You wash it down with a wine like this." —E. Porto Carreiro
Livio Felluga
2006 Colli Orientali del Friuli Pinot Grigio $25
"Mineral, floral, pear: great combination of rich soil and mineral. It’s hard not to like."
—J. Kosseff
"It’s definitely picked up more of that mineral character with a year of age. When I first tasted this, it was all sunny pear, lemon-lime and deeper nectarine flavors. It’s richer now, delicious with grilled fish."
—J. Greene
"I can see it with the halibut with creamy nettles and prosciutto that we do at Beato. There’s a bechamel base of the nettles, and the acidity would cut right through it."
— Brandon Gillespie
King Estate
2006 Oregon Signature Collection
Pinot Gris $16
"It has a lot more tropical character than most pinot gris. It’s got flavors that you might associate with sauvignon blanc, like passionfruit. With this wine, you could get into dishes that have a little more weight—richer fish, like langoustine and mussels, or chicken with a cream sauce." —A. Weil
Hanna
2007 Russian River Valley
Sauvignon Blanc $17
"This is textbook California sauvignon blanc." —J. Kosseff
"Classic, exact typicity. For food, this seems like salad territory; it’s an acid thing."
—J. Marvin
"I’d serve it with roast chicken, a little bit salty with crispy skin." —J. Kosseff
Mulderbosch
2007 Stellenbosch Sauvignon Blanc $21
"This is more toned than in years past, really lean and focused. We do this grilled asparagus-and-burrata dish that would be good here." —J. Heber
"I’ve always liked South African wine, especially the white wines. This is impressive sauvignon blanc." —J. Marvin
2006 Rias Baixas Albariño de Fefiñanes $23
"I like this producer a lot. The wine seems greener in this vintage, without the usual tropical fruit. It would go well with lighter, sashimi-style dishes." —Eric Railsback
"Or with white fish in a ponzu sauce" —Eiji Moro
"This is complex and unctuous—albariño at its best. A great partner for scallops." —Patricio Tapia
Domaine de la Pepière
2005 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine
Granite de Clisson $22
"This is the first vintage of Granite de Clisson, a sort of "grand cru" of Muscadet from the granite soils of the Massiv Armoricain, and it shows its breed in its subtle fruit and firm, flinty minerality. It should age for a good 20 years—how many Muscadets can you say that about?" —T.Q. Thomas
"It’s got a real brininess. It would go with anything light that has a lot of minerality."
—E. Railsback
"Grab an oyster, grab a glass, and go to town." —Alex Weil
Gaia
2007 Santorini Thalassitis $25
"Santorini has become one of my go-to wines for summer and Gaia’s is one of the best. It’s a little citrusy and a lot of mineral—what you might expect from a volcanic Greek isle." —Josh Greene
"To me this totally a fish—smelt and olives—wine." —J. Heber
"Something that reminds me of fresh ocean water...Briny, sea shell minerality. Very dry and clean, great with fresh Kumamoto oysters or cedar-smoked salmon." — N. Daquip
Feudi di San Gregorio
2006 Sannio Falanghina $18
"It’s floral, with an astringent finish—that soft, coating mouthfeel. This is definitely an aperitif wine, great with cured meats."
—J. Kosseff
"I’d drink it with simply prepared fish. There’s fresh halibut hitting Seattle now."
—J. Marvin
"This is full of invigorating lemon zest, almond and white stone fruit flavors—delicious with mozzarella di bufala and heirloom tomatoes." —Nicole Drummer
Marco Porello
2006 Roero Arneis Camestri $16
"Marco Porello is a young winemaker in Piedmont’s Roero, where his family has tended vines for generations. Camestri is his top site for arneis, a vineyard that gives a lot of complexity to what is often a simple white wine." —W. Weber
"I would classify this as a steely wine. It’s got a salty quality—almost like the salty taste you find in pilsner beer. It would really go well with something from the sea, like some crudo with fleur de sel." —E. Porto Carreiro
"Or a salty fish, like a brandade, some bacalao." —R. Clement
Bucci
2006 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
Classico Superiore $22
"Italy’s best white grape. Refreshing, lemony, nutty. A perfect aperitivo. To me, if there’s a path to quality white in Italy, verdicchio is on it." —J. Heber
"Have that with your Copper River salmon." —J. Marvin
Bastianich
2006 Colli Orientali del Friuli
Tocai Friulano $17
"You know the flavor of star fruit, the skin? This has that." —R. Pierce
"There’s a bit of an herbal quality, like dried herbs, celery leaf, a foliage quality. Friuli has been so cutting edge for the past several years and when you taste a wine like this you can see they haven’t let up."—R. Clement
"In Brazil we make a drink where you just open a passion fruit and let it drip into a glass of rum and at the end there’s almost a fruitlike quality from the seeds. This wine has a quality like that, a bitterness. It’s the sort of wine to have with some crusty bread and prosciutto or dry cheese drizzled with some really good olive oil. You wash it down with a wine like this." —E. Porto Carreiro
Livio Felluga
2006 Colli Orientali del Friuli Pinot Grigio $25
"Mineral, floral, pear: great combination of rich soil and mineral. It’s hard not to like."
—J. Kosseff
"It’s definitely picked up more of that mineral character with a year of age. When I first tasted this, it was all sunny pear, lemon-lime and deeper nectarine flavors. It’s richer now, delicious with grilled fish."
—J. Greene
"I can see it with the halibut with creamy nettles and prosciutto that we do at Beato. There’s a bechamel base of the nettles, and the acidity would cut right through it."
— Brandon Gillespie
King Estate
2006 Oregon Signature Collection
Pinot Gris $16
"It has a lot more tropical character than most pinot gris. It’s got flavors that you might associate with sauvignon blanc, like passionfruit. With this wine, you could get into dishes that have a little more weight—richer fish, like langoustine and mussels, or chicken with a cream sauce." —A. Weil
Hanna
2007 Russian River Valley
Sauvignon Blanc $17
"This is textbook California sauvignon blanc." —J. Kosseff
"Classic, exact typicity. For food, this seems like salad territory; it’s an acid thing."
—J. Marvin
"I’d serve it with roast chicken, a little bit salty with crispy skin." —J. Kosseff
Mulderbosch
2007 Stellenbosch Sauvignon Blanc $21
"This is more toned than in years past, really lean and focused. We do this grilled asparagus-and-burrata dish that would be good here." —J. Heber
"I’ve always liked South African wine, especially the white wines. This is impressive sauvignon blanc." —J. Marvin
2007 Santorini Thalassitis $25
"Santorini has become one of my go-to wines for summer and Gaia’s is one of the best. It’s a little citrusy and a lot of mineral—what you might expect from a volcanic Greek isle." —Josh Greene
"To me this totally a fish—smelt and olives—wine." —J. Heber
"Something that reminds me of fresh ocean water...Briny, sea shell minerality. Very dry and clean, great with fresh Kumamoto oysters or cedar-smoked salmon." — N. Daquip
Feudi di San Gregorio
2006 Sannio Falanghina $18
"It’s floral, with an astringent finish—that soft, coating mouthfeel. This is definitely an aperitif wine, great with cured meats."
—J. Kosseff
"I’d drink it with simply prepared fish. There’s fresh halibut hitting Seattle now."
—J. Marvin
"This is full of invigorating lemon zest, almond and white stone fruit flavors—delicious with mozzarella di bufala and heirloom tomatoes." —Nicole Drummer
Marco Porello
2006 Roero Arneis Camestri $16
"Marco Porello is a young winemaker in Piedmont’s Roero, where his family has tended vines for generations. Camestri is his top site for arneis, a vineyard that gives a lot of complexity to what is often a simple white wine." —W. Weber
"I would classify this as a steely wine. It’s got a salty quality—almost like the salty taste you find in pilsner beer. It would really go well with something from the sea, like some crudo with fleur de sel." —E. Porto Carreiro
"Or a salty fish, like a brandade, some bacalao." —R. Clement
Bucci
2006 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
Classico Superiore $22
"Italy’s best white grape. Refreshing, lemony, nutty. A perfect aperitivo. To me, if there’s a path to quality white in Italy, verdicchio is on it." —J. Heber
"Have that with your Copper River salmon." —J. Marvin
Bastianich
2006 Colli Orientali del Friuli
Tocai Friulano $17
"You know the flavor of star fruit, the skin? This has that." —R. Pierce
"There’s a bit of an herbal quality, like dried herbs, celery leaf, a foliage quality. Friuli has been so cutting edge for the past several years and when you taste a wine like this you can see they haven’t let up."—R. Clement
"In Brazil we make a drink where you just open a passion fruit and let it drip into a glass of rum and at the end there’s almost a fruitlike quality from the seeds. This wine has a quality like that, a bitterness. It’s the sort of wine to have with some crusty bread and prosciutto or dry cheese drizzled with some really good olive oil. You wash it down with a wine like this." —E. Porto Carreiro
Livio Felluga
2006 Colli Orientali del Friuli Pinot Grigio $25
"Mineral, floral, pear: great combination of rich soil and mineral. It’s hard not to like."
—J. Kosseff
"It’s definitely picked up more of that mineral character with a year of age. When I first tasted this, it was all sunny pear, lemon-lime and deeper nectarine flavors. It’s richer now, delicious with grilled fish."
—J. Greene
"I can see it with the halibut with creamy nettles and prosciutto that we do at Beato. There’s a bechamel base of the nettles, and the acidity would cut right through it."
— Brandon Gillespie
King Estate
2006 Oregon Signature Collection
Pinot Gris $16
"It has a lot more tropical character than most pinot gris. It’s got flavors that you might associate with sauvignon blanc, like passionfruit. With this wine, you could get into dishes that have a little more weight—richer fish, like langoustine and mussels, or chicken with a cream sauce." —A. Weil
Hanna
2007 Russian River Valley
Sauvignon Blanc $17
"This is textbook California sauvignon blanc." —J. Kosseff
"Classic, exact typicity. For food, this seems like salad territory; it’s an acid thing."
—J. Marvin
"I’d serve it with roast chicken, a little bit salty with crispy skin." —J. Kosseff
Mulderbosch
2007 Stellenbosch Sauvignon Blanc $21
"This is more toned than in years past, really lean and focused. We do this grilled asparagus-and-burrata dish that would be good here." —J. Heber
"I’ve always liked South African wine, especially the white wines. This is impressive sauvignon blanc." —J. Marvin
2006 Roero Arneis Camestri $16
"Marco Porello is a young winemaker in Piedmont’s Roero, where his family has tended vines for generations. Camestri is his top site for arneis, a vineyard that gives a lot of complexity to what is often a simple white wine." —W. Weber
"I would classify this as a steely wine. It’s got a salty quality—almost like the salty taste you find in pilsner beer. It would really go well with something from the sea, like some crudo with fleur de sel." —E. Porto Carreiro
"Or a salty fish, like a brandade, some bacalao." —R. Clement
Bucci
2006 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
Classico Superiore $22
"Italy’s best white grape. Refreshing, lemony, nutty. A perfect aperitivo. To me, if there’s a path to quality white in Italy, verdicchio is on it." —J. Heber
"Have that with your Copper River salmon." —J. Marvin
Bastianich
2006 Colli Orientali del Friuli
Tocai Friulano $17
"You know the flavor of star fruit, the skin? This has that." —R. Pierce
"There’s a bit of an herbal quality, like dried herbs, celery leaf, a foliage quality. Friuli has been so cutting edge for the past several years and when you taste a wine like this you can see they haven’t let up."—R. Clement
"In Brazil we make a drink where you just open a passion fruit and let it drip into a glass of rum and at the end there’s almost a fruitlike quality from the seeds. This wine has a quality like that, a bitterness. It’s the sort of wine to have with some crusty bread and prosciutto or dry cheese drizzled with some really good olive oil. You wash it down with a wine like this." —E. Porto Carreiro
Livio Felluga
2006 Colli Orientali del Friuli Pinot Grigio $25
"Mineral, floral, pear: great combination of rich soil and mineral. It’s hard not to like."
—J. Kosseff
"It’s definitely picked up more of that mineral character with a year of age. When I first tasted this, it was all sunny pear, lemon-lime and deeper nectarine flavors. It’s richer now, delicious with grilled fish."
—J. Greene
"I can see it with the halibut with creamy nettles and prosciutto that we do at Beato. There’s a bechamel base of the nettles, and the acidity would cut right through it."
— Brandon Gillespie
King Estate
2006 Oregon Signature Collection
Pinot Gris $16
"It has a lot more tropical character than most pinot gris. It’s got flavors that you might associate with sauvignon blanc, like passionfruit. With this wine, you could get into dishes that have a little more weight—richer fish, like langoustine and mussels, or chicken with a cream sauce." —A. Weil
Hanna
2007 Russian River Valley
Sauvignon Blanc $17
"This is textbook California sauvignon blanc." —J. Kosseff
"Classic, exact typicity. For food, this seems like salad territory; it’s an acid thing."
—J. Marvin
"I’d serve it with roast chicken, a little bit salty with crispy skin." —J. Kosseff
Mulderbosch
2007 Stellenbosch Sauvignon Blanc $21
"This is more toned than in years past, really lean and focused. We do this grilled asparagus-and-burrata dish that would be good here." —J. Heber
"I’ve always liked South African wine, especially the white wines. This is impressive sauvignon blanc." —J. Marvin
2006 Colli Orientali del Friuli Tocai Friulano $17
"You know the flavor of star fruit, the skin? This has that." —R. Pierce
"There’s a bit of an herbal quality, like dried herbs, celery leaf, a foliage quality. Friuli has been so cutting edge for the past several years and when you taste a wine like this you can see they haven’t let up."—R. Clement
"In Brazil we make a drink where you just open a passion fruit and let it drip into a glass of rum and at the end there’s almost a fruitlike quality from the seeds. This wine has a quality like that, a bitterness. It’s the sort of wine to have with some crusty bread and prosciutto or dry cheese drizzled with some really good olive oil. You wash it down with a wine like this." —E. Porto Carreiro
Livio Felluga
2006 Colli Orientali del Friuli Pinot Grigio $25
"Mineral, floral, pear: great combination of rich soil and mineral. It’s hard not to like."
—J. Kosseff
"It’s definitely picked up more of that mineral character with a year of age. When I first tasted this, it was all sunny pear, lemon-lime and deeper nectarine flavors. It’s richer now, delicious with grilled fish."
—J. Greene
"I can see it with the halibut with creamy nettles and prosciutto that we do at Beato. There’s a bechamel base of the nettles, and the acidity would cut right through it."
— Brandon Gillespie
King Estate
2006 Oregon Signature Collection
Pinot Gris $16
"It has a lot more tropical character than most pinot gris. It’s got flavors that you might associate with sauvignon blanc, like passionfruit. With this wine, you could get into dishes that have a little more weight—richer fish, like langoustine and mussels, or chicken with a cream sauce." —A. Weil
Hanna
2007 Russian River Valley
Sauvignon Blanc $17
"This is textbook California sauvignon blanc." —J. Kosseff
"Classic, exact typicity. For food, this seems like salad territory; it’s an acid thing."
—J. Marvin
"I’d serve it with roast chicken, a little bit salty with crispy skin." —J. Kosseff
Mulderbosch
2007 Stellenbosch Sauvignon Blanc $21
"This is more toned than in years past, really lean and focused. We do this grilled asparagus-and-burrata dish that would be good here." —J. Heber
"I’ve always liked South African wine, especially the white wines. This is impressive sauvignon blanc." —J. Marvin
2006 Oregon Signature Collection Pinot Gris $16
"It has a lot more tropical character than most pinot gris. It’s got flavors that you might associate with sauvignon blanc, like passionfruit. With this wine, you could get into dishes that have a little more weight—richer fish, like langoustine and mussels, or chicken with a cream sauce." —A. Weil
Hanna
2007 Russian River Valley
Sauvignon Blanc $17
"This is textbook California sauvignon blanc." —J. Kosseff
"Classic, exact typicity. For food, this seems like salad territory; it’s an acid thing."
—J. Marvin
"I’d serve it with roast chicken, a little bit salty with crispy skin." —J. Kosseff
Mulderbosch
2007 Stellenbosch Sauvignon Blanc $21
"This is more toned than in years past, really lean and focused. We do this grilled asparagus-and-burrata dish that would be good here." —J. Heber
"I’ve always liked South African wine, especially the white wines. This is impressive sauvignon blanc." —J. Marvin
2007 Stellenbosch Sauvignon Blanc $21
"This is more toned than in years past, really lean and focused. We do this grilled asparagus-and-burrata dish that would be good here." —J. Heber
"I’ve always liked South African wine, especially the white wines. This is impressive sauvignon blanc." —J. Marvin
Kim Crawford
2007 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc $17
"You know, you’ve got your citrusy New Zealand sauvignon blanc and your green pepper New Zealand sauvignon blanc—this is the green pepper version right here, all about the herbs, not so much about the gooseberry. I’d serve it with salads and other dishes with uncooked vegetables. I think vegans would love this wine." —R. Clement
"This would be good with Vietnamese food—not the real spicy stuff, but a stew with fresh herbs." —E. Porto Carreiro
Shaw + Smith
2007 Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc $23
"Now here’s your citrus…really nice citrus fruit, a hint of orange zest, and grapefruit, along with a touch of some green, like fennel." —R. Pierce
"This would be great with the large Aussie crayfish they call marron, or with lobster, or salt prawns spritzed with lemon."
—Patrick J. Comiskey
Casa Marin
2007 San Antonio Valley
Laurel Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc $25
"This is one of the best sauvignons from Chile and a terrific example of Lo Abarca, Chile’s far coast—a great terroir for sauvignon. The wine has a generous texture, in total balance with the mineral acidity." —P. Tapia
2007 Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc $23
"Now here’s your citrus…really nice citrus fruit, a hint of orange zest, and grapefruit, along with a touch of some green, like fennel." —R. Pierce
"This would be great with the large Aussie crayfish they call marron, or with lobster, or salt prawns spritzed with lemon." —Patrick J. Comiskey
Casa Marin
2007 San Antonio Valley
Laurel Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc $25
"This is one of the best sauvignons from Chile and a terrific example of Lo Abarca, Chile’s far coast—a great terroir for sauvignon. The wine has a generous texture, in total balance with the mineral acidity." —P. Tapia
Sparklers
Segura Viudas
Cava Brut Reserva $10
Nino Franco
Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Rústico $17
Roederer Estate
Anderson Valley Brut $22
Agrapart
Champagne Blanc de Blancs Les 7 Crus $45
Bollinger
Champagne Brut Special Cuvée $55
Crisp White
Aveleda
2006 Vinho Verde Quinta da Aveleda $8
2006 Vinho Verde Quinta da Aveleda $8
Palacio de Fefiñanes
2006 Rias Baixas Albariño de Fefiñanes $23
Domaine de la Pepière
2005 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine
Granite de Clisson $22
Gaia
2007 Santorini Thalassitis $25
Feudi di San Gregorio
2006 Sannio Falanghina $18
Marco Porello
2006 Roero Arneis Camestri $16
Bucci
2006 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
Classico Superiore $22
Bastianich
2006 Colli Orientali del Friuli Tocai Friulano $17
Livio Felluga
2006 Colli Orientali del Friuli Pinot Grigio $25
King Estate
2006 Oregon Signature Collection Pinot Gris$16
Hanna
2007 Russian River Valley Sauvignon Blanc $17
Mulderbosch
2007 Stellenbosch Sauvignon Blanc $21
Kim Crawford
2007 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc$17
Shaw + Smith
2007 Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc $23
Casa Marin
2007 San Antonio Valley
Laurel Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc $25
Riesling
J.L. Wolf
2006 Pfalz Wachenheimer Riesling $16
2006 Pfalz Wachenheimer Riesling $16
Hexamer
2006 Nahe Quarzit Riesling QbA $22
Fox Run
2006 Seneca Lake Reserve Riesling $30
Frankland Estate
2007 Frankland River
Isolation Ridge Riesling $25
Jacob’s Creek
2006 Barossa Steingarten Riesling $28
Rich White
Château de Chamboureau
2004 Savennières Sec $24
Schloss Gobelsburg
2006 Kamptal Steinsetz
Grüner Veltliner $24
Del Rio
2006 Rogue Valley Viognier $20
Zaca Mesa
2006 Santa Ynez Valley Roussanne $25
Domaine Olivier Pithon
2006 Cotes du Roussillon Cuvée Laïs $28
Hogue
2006 Columbia Valley Chardonnay $9
Santa Barbara Crossing
2005 Santa Barbara County
Chardonnay$10
Iron Horse
2005 Green Valley Chardonnay $27
L’Ecole No. 41
2006 Columbia Valley Semillon $16
R. López di Heredia
1996 Rioja Viña Gravonia Crianza $27
Sherry
Lustau
Jerez Puerto Fino Solera Reserva $14
Hidalgo
Jerez Amontillado Napoleón $19
Rosé
Muga
2006 Rioja Rosé $11
2006 Rioja Rosé $11
Commanderie de la Bargemone
2007 Coteaux d’Aix en
Provence Rosé $15
Bright Red
J. Lohr
2007 Monterey Wildflower Valdiguié $9
Jean-François Mérieau
2006 Touraine Le Bois Jacou Gamay $15
Georges Duboeuf
2006 Moulin-à-Vent
Domaine des Rosiers $15
Skouras
2005 Nemea St. George $13
MacMurray Ranch
2005 Central Coast Pinot Noir $20
A to Z
2006 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir $20
Cristom
2006 Willamette Valley
Mt. Jefferson Cuvée Pinot Noir $30
Handley
2006 Mendocino County Pinot Noir $25
Calera
2006 Mount Harlan Cuvée Pinot Noir $30
Domaine de la Noblaie
2004 Chinon
Les Chiens-Chiens Rouge $15
Thierry Puzelat
2006 Vin de Table
La Tesnière Pineau d’Aunis $27
Rhône Family
Le Pigeolet en Provence
2006 Vin de Pays de Vaucluse $16
Château Mont-Redon
2005 Côtes du Rhône $15
Domaine du Nizas
2003 Coteaux du Languedoc $17
Yalumba
2006 Barossa Bush Vine Grenache $16
d’Arenberg
2005 McLaren Vale
d’Arry’s Original Shiraz–Grenache $19
Penfolds
2004 South Australia Bin 389
Cabernet–Shiraz $28
Boomtown
2006 Columbia Valley Syrah $15
Gordon Brothers
2005 Columbia Valley Syrah$19
Qupé
2006 Central Coast Syrah $17
Philippe Faury
2005 St-Joseph $28
Parducci
2004 Mendocino True Grit Petite Sirah $25
Mediterranean/Iberian Varieties
Chakana
2006 Mendoza Bonarda $11
Quinta do Encontro
2004 Bairrada Q do E $9
Dona Maria
2005 Alentejano VR $17
Gordonzello Peregrino
2005 Tierras de León
Roble Prieto Picudo $18
Marqués de Cáceres
2001 Rioja Reserva $23
Ridge
2006 Sonoma County
Three Valleys Zinfandel $22
Frog’s Leap
2006 Napa Valley Zinfandel $27
Italian Reds
Librandi
2004 Cirò Duca San Felice Riserva $18
Fattoria La Peschiera
2005 Morellino di Scansano $17
Melini
2005 Chianti Classico Isassi $15
Le Macchiole
2005 Bolgheri Rosso $32
Abbazia di Novacella
2006 Alto Adige Lagrein $27
Il Roncal
2005 Colli Orientali del Friuli
Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso $22
Poderi Luigi Einaudi
2006 Dolcetto di Dogliani $22
Cantina del Pino
2005 Barbera d’Alba $32
Damilano
2005 Nebbiolo d’Alba $21
Cabernet Family
Snoqualmie
2006 Columbia Valley Merlot $10
Santa Rita
2006 Rapel Valley Reserva Carmenère $14
Snoqualmie
2006 Columbia Valley Merlot $10
Santa Rita
2006 Rapel Valley Reserva Carmenère $14
Morandé
2005 Maipo Valley Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon $17
Bodegas Nieto Senetiner
2005 Mendoza Don Nicanor Malbec $17
Caro
2006 Mendoza Amancaya $20
Tamarack
2006 Columbia Valley Firehouse Red $20
Chateau Ste. Michelle
2005 Columbia Valley Indian Wells Cabernet Sauvignon $19
Cadence
2006 Columbia Valley Coda $25
Chateau Phélan–Ségur
2004 St–Estèphe $25
Beringer
2005 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $27
Pelton House
2005 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $45
Sweet & Complex
Dr. Loosen
2006 Mosel Riesling Beerenauslese $25
Royal Tokaji Wine Company
2003 Tokaji 5 Puttonyos $39
Loel
Cyprus Commandaria $12
Quinta do Vesuvio
2005 Porto $63
Croft
2005 Porto Quinta da Roeda $47
Sparklers
Segura Viudas
Cava Brut Reserva $10
“This is clean, fresh and lively—a classic blend of macabeo, parellada and xarel-lo. At this price, it’s difficult to find another sparkling wine in the world that delivers such consistent quality and character.” —Peter Liem
“It has a delicacy about it. The leanness and minerality of this wine would pair well with melon.” —Tim Snyder
Nino Franco
Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Rústico $17
“The best Prosecco I’ve had in a long time. I’d drink it on the patio with fresh Dungeness crab legs and a stoneground mustard aioli.” —Nelson Daquip
“Not rustic at all. This is one of the finest-bubbled, fullest-flavored, elegant Proseccos around. It’s dry and lively, packed with crisp apple flavors and toasty notes that will match a bowl of roast nuts as gracefully as some seared scallops.” —Tara Q. Thomas
Roederer Estate
Anderson Valley Brut $22
“I’ve always liked this wine, and it’s one of the best sparkling wines made in the US.”
—Jared Heber
“They’ve got a great stock of reserve wine from Anderson Valley. Those reserves add richness to the brisk acidity and ripe apple flavors.” —Wolfgang Weber
“With the creamy mousse on this, I’d like a Piave Vecchio or a Parmigiano to lighten it up.” —Erik Kelley
Agrapart
Champagne Blanc de Blancs Les 7 Crus $45
“As far as Champagne values go, it’s hard to beat the focus and precision of this wine. Minerals and citrus fruits, and a great mouth feel.” —Jason Marvin
“Perfect Champagne. Rich, lean, fruity, minerally. This one’s really suave. It’s the kind of Champagne I would drink through dinner.” —Jake Kosseff
Bollinger
Champagne Brut Special Cuvèe $55
“Bollinger’s collection of reserve wines allows them to make a non-vintage cuvée that has more depth, richness and complexity than most others.” —T.Q. Thomas
“I’d serve it with fried chicken—those bubbles cut through the richness.” —Randy Clement
“Or with smoked salmon lox with a fresh bagel on a Sunday morning.”
—Eduardo Porto Carreiro
Crisp White
Aveleda
2006 Vinho Verde Quinta da Aveleda $8
“This was my summer porch wine growing up and in college. I used to have an endless supply. It’s so inviting, so bright and green in the clear glass…it’s one of the world’s most unpretentious wines you’ll come across.”
—E. Porto Carreiro
“This has such low alcohol. People are getting tired of all of those in-your-face wines. Vinho Verde… it’s really an up and coming category. It’s sort of a catchy name—it’s easy to drink, easy to remember, easy to say; it’s the sort of wine people want to be in the know about. I’m from New Orleans and would love it with a po’ boy.” —R. Clement
“Or with an ahi tuna salad.” —Rob Pierce
Palacio de Fefiñanes
2006 Rias Baixas Albariño de Fefiñanes $23
“I like this producer a lot. The wine seems greener in this vintage, without the usual tropical fruit. It would go well with lighter, sashimi-style dishes.” —Eric Railsback
“Or with white fish in a ponzu sauce”
—Eiji Moro
“This is complex and unctuous—albariño at its best. A great partner for scallops.”
—Patricio Tapia
Domaine de la Pepière
2005 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine
Granite de Clisson $22
“This is the first vintage of Granite de Clisson, a sort of “grand cru” of Muscadet from the granite soils of the Massiv Armoricain, and it shows its breed in its subtle fruit and firm, flinty minerality. It should age for a good 20 years—how many Muscadets can you say that about?” —T.Q. Thomas
“It’s got a real brininess. It would go with anything light that has a lot of minerality.”
—E. Railsback
“Grab an oyster, grab a glass, and go to town.” —Alex Weil
Gaia
2007 Santorini Thalassitis $25
“Santorini has become one of my go-to wines for summer and Gaia’s is one of the best. It’s a little citrusy and a lot of mineral—what you might expect from a volcanic Greek isle.” —Josh Greene
“To me this totally a fish—smelt and olives—wine.” —J. Heber
“Something that reminds me of fresh ocean water...Briny, sea shell minerality. Very dry and clean, great with fresh Kumamoto oysters or cedar-smoked salmon.” — N. Daquip
Feudi di San Gregorio
2006 Sannio Falanghina $18
“It’s floral, with an astringent finish—that soft, coating mouthfeel. This is definitely an aperitif wine, great with cured meats.”
—J. Kosseff
“I’d drink it with simply prepared fish. There’s fresh halibut hitting Seattle now.”
—J. Marvin
“This is full of invigorating lemon zest, almond and white stone fruit flavors—delicious with mozzarella di bufala and heirloom tomatoes.” —Nicole Drummer
Marco Porello
2006 Roero Arneis Camestri $16
“Marco Porello is a young winemaker in Piedmont’s Roero, where his family has tended vines for generations. Camestri is his top site for arneis, a vineyard that gives a lot of complexity to what is often a simple white wine.” —W. Weber
“I would classify this as a steely wine. It’s got a salty quality—almost like the salty taste you find in pilsner beer. It would really go well with something from the sea, like some crudo with fleur de sel.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“Or a salty fish, like a brandade, some bacalao.” —R. Clement
Bucci
2006 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
Classico Superiore $22
“Italy’s best white grape. Refreshing, lemony, nutty. A perfect aperitivo. To me, if there’s a path to quality white in Italy, verdicchio is on it.” —J. Heber
“Have that with your Copper River salmon.” —J. Marvin
Bastianich
2006 Colli Orientali del Friuli
Tocai Friulano $17
“You know the flavor of star fruit, the skin? This has that.” —R. Pierce
“There’s a bit of an herbal quality, like dried herbs, celery leaf, a foliage quality. Friuli has been so cutting edge for the past several years and when you taste a wine like this you can see they haven’t let up.”—R. Clement
“In Brazil we make a drink where you just open a passion fruit and let it drip into a glass of rum and at the end there’s almost a fruitlike quality from the seeds. This wine has a quality like that, a bitterness. It’s the sort of wine to have with some crusty bread and prosciutto or dry cheese drizzled with some really good olive oil. You wash it down with a wine like this.” —E. Porto Carreiro
Livio Felluga
2006 Colli Orientali del Friuli Pinot Grigio $25
“Mineral, floral, pear: great combination of rich soil and mineral. It’s hard not to like.”
—J. Kosseff
“It’s definitely picked up more of that mineral character with a year of age. When I first tasted this, it was all sunny pear, lemon-lime and deeper nectarine flavors. It’s richer now, delicious with grilled fish.”
—J. Greene
“I can see it with the halibut with creamy nettles and prosciutto that we do at Beato. There’s a bechamel base of the nettles, and the acidity would cut right through it.”
— Brandon Gillespie
King Estate
2006 Oregon Signature Collection
Pinot Gris $16
“It has a lot more tropical character than most pinot gris. It’s got flavors that you might associate with sauvignon blanc, like passionfruit. With this wine, you could get into dishes that have a little more weight—richer fish, like langoustine and mussels, or chicken with a cream sauce.” —A. Weil
Hanna
2007 Russian River Valley
Sauvignon Blanc $17
“This is textbook California sauvignon blanc.” —J. Kosseff
“Classic, exact typicity. For food, this seems like salad territory; it’s an acid thing.”
—J. Marvin
“I’d serve it with roast chicken, a little bit salty with crispy skin.” —J. Kosseff
Mulderbosch
2007 Stellenbosch Sauvignon Blanc $21
“This is more toned than in years past, really lean and focused. We do this grilled asparagus-and-burrata dish that would be good here.” —J. Heber
“I’ve always liked South African wine, especially the white wines. This is impressive sauvignon blanc.” —J. Marvin
Kim Crawford
2007 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc $17
“You know, you’ve got your citrusy New Zealand sauvignon blanc and your green pepper New Zealand sauvignon blanc—this is the green pepper version right here, all about the herbs, not so much about the gooseberry. I’d serve it with salads and other dishes with uncooked vegetables. I think vegans would love this wine.” —R. Clement
“This would be good with Vietnamese food—not the real spicy stuff, but a stew with fresh herbs.” —E. Porto Carreiro
Shaw + Smith
2007 Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc $23
“Now here’s your citrus…really nice citrus fruit, a hint of orange zest, and grapefruit, along with a touch of some green, like fennel.” —R. Pierce
“This would be great with the large Aussie crayfish they call marron, or with lobster, or salt prawns spritzed with lemon.”
—Patrick J. Comiskey
Casa Marin
2007 San Antonio Valley
Laurel Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc $25
“This is one of the best sauvignons from Chile and a terrific example of Lo Abarca, Chile’s far coast—a great terroir for sauvignon. The wine has a generous texture, in total balance with the mineral acidity.” —P. Tapia
Riesling
J.L. Wolf
2006 Pfalz Wachenheimer Riesling $16
“This is a village-level wine, and yet its sense of place is so profound—that spicy, stony minerality. Unbelievable class and refinement for a wine of this price.” —P. Liem
“It’s lean and citrusy, with sweetness that would really complement spicy dishes. With a chile, pepper, scallion and lemongrass sauce, I think this would be absolutely perfect. It would also be really good with pork, or shellfish with chile.” —A. Weil
Hexamer
2006 Nahe Quarzit Riesling QbA $22
“This is a special selection from a parcel of quartzite soil in the Meddersheimer Rheingrafenberg. It’s always picked at Spätlese level or higher, yet retains a vivid, nearly electric energy and tension thanks to mouthwatering acidity.” —P. Liem
“Riesling is the gateway drug, it’s delicious yet serious. I like this kind of wine with duck breast—the acidity and the richness pairs well with the meat.” —J. Marvin
“When I need a wine at ten A.M. on my deck, this is it.” —J. Heber
Fox Run
2006 Seneca Lake Reserve Riesling $30
“The Finger Lakes has some of the most profound riesling in North America. They’ve got it all there: an ideal climate, steep slopes and slate soils.” —W. Weber
“I would like to see what this is like in ten years; it’s pithy now and I’d like to see that mellow. It’s got great potential to age.” —J. Heber
Frankland Estate
2007 Frankland River
Isolation Ridge Riesling $25
“The palate has a limeade quality, a kind of noble austerity to the texture.”
—E. Porto Carreiro
“I’ve never been to Western Australia, but this is nothing like riesling from Germany, or Alsace…I’d drink it with an applewood smoked pork chop.” —R. Clement
Jacob’s Creek
2006 Barossa Steingarten Riesling $28
“There’s lots of power here, almost a viscous texture, starting to lean toward a little bit of that petrol character. Between these two Australian Rieslings, the Jacob’s Creek definitely is the more versatile, just based on where the wine sits on the palate, its heft and its viscosity.” —R. Clement
Rich White
Château de Chamboureau
2004 Savennières Sec $24
“It has a smoky nuttiness, and a round mouth feel. It doesn’t have too much oak. On the nose, it reminds me of some sort of smelly cheese. It’s got a lot of interesting things that you don’t get in a lot of white wines. Chicken thighs stuffed with goat cheese would be good with this.”—E. Railsback
“It could stand up to marinated olives, or a little cheese plate.” —A. Weil
Schloss Gobelsburg
2006 Kamptal Steinsetz
Grüner Veltliner $24
“Just lovely. Spicy, crisp, great fleshy texture.”—J. Heber
“Steinsetz creates full-bodied, complex veltliner, marked by the minerality of the gravel and loess soils. In Burgundy, a wine of this quality would literally be four or five times the price.” —P. Liem
Del Rio
2006 Rogue Valley Viognier $20
“Del Rio is a giant vineyard that basically made the Rogue Valley appellation.”—J. Kosseff
“This is a great rich white wine that’s not a chardonnay. It’s made for cheese and charcuterie.” — J. Marvin
Zaca Mesa
2006 Santa Ynez Valley Roussanne $25
“Zaca Mesa makes cool wines across the board—it’s a great property. The roussanne and other white Rhône varieties are planted on north-facing slopes, so they get a little less ripe.” —E. Kelley
“Zaca Mesa’s Roussanne is how I got my mother to try something besides California chardonnay.” —W. Weber
“I think white Rhône varietals and pork, savory pork, go really well together.”
—J. Kosseff
Domaine Olivier Pithon
2006 Cotes du Roussillon Cuvée Laïs $28
“This is a regal, rich white, like an Hermitage Blanc if Hermitage were bathed in Roussillon’s warm light. But it’s a fraction of the cost of a great Hermitage Blanc. (It’s also the best wine I’ve ever tasted that’s named after a Jersey cow.)” —T.Q. Thomas
“A wine for the people who don’t like white wine.” —R. Pierce
“The oak seems almost like a bridge to the wines of Burgundy.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“There’s a little honey to the flavor. It’s so pure. I’d pair it with skate wing fried in butter.” —R. Clement
Hogue
2006 Columbia Valley Chardonnay $9
“For people looking for chardonnay it’s got everything; this is the sort of wine that would work in every state in the country. That fleshy mouthfeel, that bit of tropical fruit. It’s a crowd-pleaser.” —R. Pierce
“It’s the right white for a cocktail party, or a ham and gruyère panini.” —J. Greene
Santa Barbara Crossing
2005 Santa Barbara County
Chardonnay $10
“This is a Thanksgiving white. It could also work with a dish of scallops, with a little cinnamon and butternut squash.” —A. Weil
“It’s Central Coast chardonnay all the way, with big, full flavors backed up by salty acidity. A lot of wine for ten bucks.” —W. Weber
Iron Horse
2005 Green Valley Chardonnay $27
“I’ve always liked the Iron Horse wines. It’s a very California style of chardonnay, but these have more acidity that most, which keeps them interesting. It would go with salmon, lobster, crab, and lighter meats.” —A. Weil
“Creamy and rich, with that vibrant acidity. I’d love to see this paired with seared day-boat scallops with an edamame purée and truffled kabayaki sauce...” —N. Daquip
L’Ecole No. 41
2006 Columbia Valley Semillon $16
“From the nose to the mouth to the acidity, this wine’s fruit is well balanced, not overpowering. It’s a great summer patio wine.”
— B. Gillespie
“This would be a good roast turkey wine; it’s appealing.” —E. Kelley
“I’d serve it with smoked fish—salmon, trout.” —J. Marvin
R. López di Heredia
1996 Rioja Viña Gravonia Crianza $27
“I would thank this operation one million times if I could. This is the reward for patience. Almond…marzipan… Amazing wine. It’s the best value here without question.” —R. Pierce
“An Old School white, the kind of wine only López de Heredia and few others produce. Waxy, mineral and fresh…a white for fried sardines.” —P. Tapia
“Or Marcona almonds. You don’t want to get too complicated. I could see a nice bowl of polenta with some Manchego cheese.”
—R. Clement
Sherry
Lustau
Jerez Puerto Fino Solera Reserva $14
“I jumpstart my appetite with fino. It makes me want to eat. This is a wine that gets people hungry.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“I really like the briny, clean flavors. It’s so crisp. I’d have it with oysters or some charcuterie.” —Steve Goldun
Hidalgo
Jerez Amontillado Napoleón $19
“This has the complexity of an aged amontillado while retaining the dry, austere finesse and liveliness of a fino.” —P. Liem
“Upfront, it’s really briny, and it has an almondy sort of flavor. It’s really a time and place wine. The real beauty of certain wines is in their context. You’re starting the evening, the sun’s going down in the summer…Sherry in this context is one of the most beautiful things in the world.” —A. Weil
“I’d want this with a dry salty cheese and almonds, or on the back porch, with some nuts.” —E. Railsback
Rosé
Muga
2006 Rioja Rosé $11
“It’s a lot of wine for the money! Very crisp and easy to drink. It’s got really nice acidity, a rose petal color, and lots of strawberry flavor.” —T. Snyder
“This offers more flavor most Rioja rosados while avoiding the watermelon candy syndrome. Instead, it tastes of garnacha’s cherry flavors and tempranillo’s spice, as vibrant as its pink hue.” —T.Q. Thomas
Commanderie de la Bargemone
2007 Coteaux d’Aix en
Provence Rosé $15
“This was my summer outdoor drinking wine last year. I split a case with a friend and kept it around for picnics in Central Park, beach trips to Long Island, pool parties. It’s full of bright strawberry flavors, refreshingly crisp.” —N. Drummer
“I can tell just from seeing the bottle that this needs grilled lamb. People think that rosé is just for summer, but I think it’s great with food all year round.” —J. Marvin
“There’s so much food that can go with this. It’s salty. It’s fatty. Rosé is the most versatile wine out there.” —J. Kosseff
2005 Mendoza Don Nicanor Malbec $17
2006 Mendoza Amancaya $20
2006 Columbia Valley Firehouse Red $20
2005 Columbia Valley Indian Wells Cabernet Sauvignon $19
2006 Columbia Valley Coda $25
2004 St–Estèphe $25
2005 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $27
2005 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $45
Sweet & Complex
2006 Mosel Riesling Beerenauslese $25
2003 Tokaji 5 Puttonyos $39
Cyprus Commandaria $12
2005 Porto $63
2005 Porto Quinta da Roeda $47
Sparklers
Segura Viudas
Cava Brut Reserva $10
“This is clean, fresh and lively—a classic blend of macabeo, parellada and xarel-lo. At this price, it’s difficult to find another sparkling wine in the world that delivers such consistent quality and character.” —Peter Liem
“It has a delicacy about it. The leanness and minerality of this wine would pair well with melon.” —Tim Snyder
Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Rústico $17
“The best Prosecco I’ve had in a long time. I’d drink it on the patio with fresh Dungeness crab legs and a stoneground mustard aioli.” —Nelson Daquip
“Not rustic at all. This is one of the finest-bubbled, fullest-flavored, elegant Proseccos around. It’s dry and lively, packed with crisp apple flavors and toasty notes that will match a bowl of roast nuts as gracefully as some seared scallops.” —Tara Q. Thomas
Anderson Valley Brut $22
“I’ve always liked this wine, and it’s one of the best sparkling wines made in the US.” —Jared Heber
“They’ve got a great stock of reserve wine from Anderson Valley. Those reserves add richness to the brisk acidity and ripe apple flavors.” —Wolfgang Weber
“With the creamy mousse on this, I’d like a Piave Vecchio or a Parmigiano to lighten it up.” —Erik Kelley
Agrapart
Champagne Blanc de Blancs Les 7 Crus $45
“As far as Champagne values go, it’s hard to beat the focus and precision of this wine. Minerals and citrus fruits, and a great mouth feel.” —Jason Marvin
“Perfect Champagne. Rich, lean, fruity, minerally. This one’s really suave. It’s the kind of Champagne I would drink through dinner.” —Jake Kosseff
Bollinger
Champagne Brut Special Cuvèe $55
“Bollinger’s collection of reserve wines allows them to make a non-vintage cuvée that has more depth, richness and complexity than most others.” —T.Q. Thomas
“I’d serve it with fried chicken—those bubbles cut through the richness.” —Randy Clement
“Or with smoked salmon lox with a fresh bagel on a Sunday morning.”
—Eduardo Porto Carreiro
Crisp White
Aveleda
2006 Vinho Verde Quinta da Aveleda $8
“This was my summer porch wine growing up and in college. I used to have an endless supply. It’s so inviting, so bright and green in the clear glass…it’s one of the world’s most unpretentious wines you’ll come across.”
—E. Porto Carreiro
“This has such low alcohol. People are getting tired of all of those in-your-face wines. Vinho Verde… it’s really an up and coming category. It’s sort of a catchy name—it’s easy to drink, easy to remember, easy to say; it’s the sort of wine people want to be in the know about. I’m from New Orleans and would love it with a po’ boy.” —R. Clement
“Or with an ahi tuna salad.” —Rob Pierce
Palacio de Fefiñanes
2006 Rias Baixas Albariño de Fefiñanes $23
“I like this producer a lot. The wine seems greener in this vintage, without the usual tropical fruit. It would go well with lighter, sashimi-style dishes.” —Eric Railsback
“Or with white fish in a ponzu sauce”
—Eiji Moro
“This is complex and unctuous—albariño at its best. A great partner for scallops.”
—Patricio Tapia
Domaine de la Pepière
2005 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine
Granite de Clisson $22
“This is the first vintage of Granite de Clisson, a sort of “grand cru” of Muscadet from the granite soils of the Massiv Armoricain, and it shows its breed in its subtle fruit and firm, flinty minerality. It should age for a good 20 years—how many Muscadets can you say that about?” —T.Q. Thomas
“It’s got a real brininess. It would go with anything light that has a lot of minerality.”
—E. Railsback
“Grab an oyster, grab a glass, and go to town.” —Alex Weil
Gaia
2007 Santorini Thalassitis $25
“Santorini has become one of my go-to wines for summer and Gaia’s is one of the best. It’s a little citrusy and a lot of mineral—what you might expect from a volcanic Greek isle.” —Josh Greene
“To me this totally a fish—smelt and olives—wine.” —J. Heber
“Something that reminds me of fresh ocean water...Briny, sea shell minerality. Very dry and clean, great with fresh Kumamoto oysters or cedar-smoked salmon.” — N. Daquip
Feudi di San Gregorio
2006 Sannio Falanghina $18
“It’s floral, with an astringent finish—that soft, coating mouthfeel. This is definitely an aperitif wine, great with cured meats.”
—J. Kosseff
“I’d drink it with simply prepared fish. There’s fresh halibut hitting Seattle now.”
—J. Marvin
“This is full of invigorating lemon zest, almond and white stone fruit flavors—delicious with mozzarella di bufala and heirloom tomatoes.” —Nicole Drummer
Marco Porello
2006 Roero Arneis Camestri $16
“Marco Porello is a young winemaker in Piedmont’s Roero, where his family has tended vines for generations. Camestri is his top site for arneis, a vineyard that gives a lot of complexity to what is often a simple white wine.” —W. Weber
“I would classify this as a steely wine. It’s got a salty quality—almost like the salty taste you find in pilsner beer. It would really go well with something from the sea, like some crudo with fleur de sel.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“Or a salty fish, like a brandade, some bacalao.” —R. Clement
Bucci
2006 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
Classico Superiore $22
“Italy’s best white grape. Refreshing, lemony, nutty. A perfect aperitivo. To me, if there’s a path to quality white in Italy, verdicchio is on it.” —J. Heber
“Have that with your Copper River salmon.” —J. Marvin
Bastianich
2006 Colli Orientali del Friuli
Tocai Friulano $17
“You know the flavor of star fruit, the skin? This has that.” —R. Pierce
“There’s a bit of an herbal quality, like dried herbs, celery leaf, a foliage quality. Friuli has been so cutting edge for the past several years and when you taste a wine like this you can see they haven’t let up.”—R. Clement
“In Brazil we make a drink where you just open a passion fruit and let it drip into a glass of rum and at the end there’s almost a fruitlike quality from the seeds. This wine has a quality like that, a bitterness. It’s the sort of wine to have with some crusty bread and prosciutto or dry cheese drizzled with some really good olive oil. You wash it down with a wine like this.” —E. Porto Carreiro
Livio Felluga
2006 Colli Orientali del Friuli Pinot Grigio $25
“Mineral, floral, pear: great combination of rich soil and mineral. It’s hard not to like.”
—J. Kosseff
“It’s definitely picked up more of that mineral character with a year of age. When I first tasted this, it was all sunny pear, lemon-lime and deeper nectarine flavors. It’s richer now, delicious with grilled fish.”
—J. Greene
“I can see it with the halibut with creamy nettles and prosciutto that we do at Beato. There’s a bechamel base of the nettles, and the acidity would cut right through it.”
— Brandon Gillespie
King Estate
2006 Oregon Signature Collection
Pinot Gris $16
“It has a lot more tropical character than most pinot gris. It’s got flavors that you might associate with sauvignon blanc, like passionfruit. With this wine, you could get into dishes that have a little more weight—richer fish, like langoustine and mussels, or chicken with a cream sauce.” —A. Weil
Hanna
2007 Russian River Valley
Sauvignon Blanc $17
“This is textbook California sauvignon blanc.” —J. Kosseff
“Classic, exact typicity. For food, this seems like salad territory; it’s an acid thing.”
—J. Marvin
“I’d serve it with roast chicken, a little bit salty with crispy skin.” —J. Kosseff
Mulderbosch
2007 Stellenbosch Sauvignon Blanc $21
“This is more toned than in years past, really lean and focused. We do this grilled asparagus-and-burrata dish that would be good here.” —J. Heber
“I’ve always liked South African wine, especially the white wines. This is impressive sauvignon blanc.” —J. Marvin
Kim Crawford
2007 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc $17
“You know, you’ve got your citrusy New Zealand sauvignon blanc and your green pepper New Zealand sauvignon blanc—this is the green pepper version right here, all about the herbs, not so much about the gooseberry. I’d serve it with salads and other dishes with uncooked vegetables. I think vegans would love this wine.” —R. Clement
“This would be good with Vietnamese food—not the real spicy stuff, but a stew with fresh herbs.” —E. Porto Carreiro
Shaw + Smith
2007 Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc $23
“Now here’s your citrus…really nice citrus fruit, a hint of orange zest, and grapefruit, along with a touch of some green, like fennel.” —R. Pierce
“This would be great with the large Aussie crayfish they call marron, or with lobster, or salt prawns spritzed with lemon.”
—Patrick J. Comiskey
Casa Marin
2007 San Antonio Valley
Laurel Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc $25
“This is one of the best sauvignons from Chile and a terrific example of Lo Abarca, Chile’s far coast—a great terroir for sauvignon. The wine has a generous texture, in total balance with the mineral acidity.” —P. Tapia
Riesling
J.L. Wolf
2006 Pfalz Wachenheimer Riesling $16
“This is a village-level wine, and yet its sense of place is so profound—that spicy, stony minerality. Unbelievable class and refinement for a wine of this price.” —P. Liem
“It’s lean and citrusy, with sweetness that would really complement spicy dishes. With a chile, pepper, scallion and lemongrass sauce, I think this would be absolutely perfect. It would also be really good with pork, or shellfish with chile.” —A. Weil
Hexamer
2006 Nahe Quarzit Riesling QbA $22
“This is a special selection from a parcel of quartzite soil in the Meddersheimer Rheingrafenberg. It’s always picked at Spätlese level or higher, yet retains a vivid, nearly electric energy and tension thanks to mouthwatering acidity.” —P. Liem
“Riesling is the gateway drug, it’s delicious yet serious. I like this kind of wine with duck breast—the acidity and the richness pairs well with the meat.” —J. Marvin
“When I need a wine at ten A.M. on my deck, this is it.” —J. Heber
Fox Run
2006 Seneca Lake Reserve Riesling $30
“The Finger Lakes has some of the most profound riesling in North America. They’ve got it all there: an ideal climate, steep slopes and slate soils.” —W. Weber
“I would like to see what this is like in ten years; it’s pithy now and I’d like to see that mellow. It’s got great potential to age.” —J. Heber
Frankland Estate
2007 Frankland River
Isolation Ridge Riesling $25
“The palate has a limeade quality, a kind of noble austerity to the texture.”
—E. Porto Carreiro
“I’ve never been to Western Australia, but this is nothing like riesling from Germany, or Alsace…I’d drink it with an applewood smoked pork chop.” —R. Clement
Jacob’s Creek
2006 Barossa Steingarten Riesling $28
“There’s lots of power here, almost a viscous texture, starting to lean toward a little bit of that petrol character. Between these two Australian Rieslings, the Jacob’s Creek definitely is the more versatile, just based on where the wine sits on the palate, its heft and its viscosity.” —R. Clement
Rich White
Château de Chamboureau
2004 Savennières Sec $24
“It has a smoky nuttiness, and a round mouth feel. It doesn’t have too much oak. On the nose, it reminds me of some sort of smelly cheese. It’s got a lot of interesting things that you don’t get in a lot of white wines. Chicken thighs stuffed with goat cheese would be good with this.”—E. Railsback
“It could stand up to marinated olives, or a little cheese plate.” —A. Weil
Schloss Gobelsburg
2006 Kamptal Steinsetz
Grüner Veltliner $24
“Just lovely. Spicy, crisp, great fleshy texture.”—J. Heber
“Steinsetz creates full-bodied, complex veltliner, marked by the minerality of the gravel and loess soils. In Burgundy, a wine of this quality would literally be four or five times the price.” —P. Liem
Del Rio
2006 Rogue Valley Viognier $20
“Del Rio is a giant vineyard that basically made the Rogue Valley appellation.”—J. Kosseff
“This is a great rich white wine that’s not a chardonnay. It’s made for cheese and charcuterie.” — J. Marvin
Zaca Mesa
2006 Santa Ynez Valley Roussanne $25
“Zaca Mesa makes cool wines across the board—it’s a great property. The roussanne and other white Rhône varieties are planted on north-facing slopes, so they get a little less ripe.” —E. Kelley
“Zaca Mesa’s Roussanne is how I got my mother to try something besides California chardonnay.” —W. Weber
“I think white Rhône varietals and pork, savory pork, go really well together.”
—J. Kosseff
Domaine Olivier Pithon
2006 Cotes du Roussillon Cuvée Laïs $28
“This is a regal, rich white, like an Hermitage Blanc if Hermitage were bathed in Roussillon’s warm light. But it’s a fraction of the cost of a great Hermitage Blanc. (It’s also the best wine I’ve ever tasted that’s named after a Jersey cow.)” —T.Q. Thomas
“A wine for the people who don’t like white wine.” —R. Pierce
“The oak seems almost like a bridge to the wines of Burgundy.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“There’s a little honey to the flavor. It’s so pure. I’d pair it with skate wing fried in butter.” —R. Clement
Hogue
2006 Columbia Valley Chardonnay $9
“For people looking for chardonnay it’s got everything; this is the sort of wine that would work in every state in the country. That fleshy mouthfeel, that bit of tropical fruit. It’s a crowd-pleaser.” —R. Pierce
“It’s the right white for a cocktail party, or a ham and gruyère panini.” —J. Greene
Santa Barbara Crossing
2005 Santa Barbara County
Chardonnay $10
“This is a Thanksgiving white. It could also work with a dish of scallops, with a little cinnamon and butternut squash.” —A. Weil
“It’s Central Coast chardonnay all the way, with big, full flavors backed up by salty acidity. A lot of wine for ten bucks.” —W. Weber
Iron Horse
2005 Green Valley Chardonnay $27
“I’ve always liked the Iron Horse wines. It’s a very California style of chardonnay, but these have more acidity that most, which keeps them interesting. It would go with salmon, lobster, crab, and lighter meats.” —A. Weil
“Creamy and rich, with that vibrant acidity. I’d love to see this paired with seared day-boat scallops with an edamame purée and truffled kabayaki sauce...” —N. Daquip
L’Ecole No. 41
2006 Columbia Valley Semillon $16
“From the nose to the mouth to the acidity, this wine’s fruit is well balanced, not overpowering. It’s a great summer patio wine.”
— B. Gillespie
“This would be a good roast turkey wine; it’s appealing.” —E. Kelley
“I’d serve it with smoked fish—salmon, trout.” —J. Marvin
R. López di Heredia
1996 Rioja Viña Gravonia Crianza $27
“I would thank this operation one million times if I could. This is the reward for patience. Almond…marzipan… Amazing wine. It’s the best value here without question.” —R. Pierce
“An Old School white, the kind of wine only López de Heredia and few others produce. Waxy, mineral and fresh…a white for fried sardines.” —P. Tapia
“Or Marcona almonds. You don’t want to get too complicated. I could see a nice bowl of polenta with some Manchego cheese.”
—R. Clement
Sherry
Lustau
Jerez Puerto Fino Solera Reserva $14
“I jumpstart my appetite with fino. It makes me want to eat. This is a wine that gets people hungry.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“I really like the briny, clean flavors. It’s so crisp. I’d have it with oysters or some charcuterie.” —Steve Goldun
Hidalgo
Jerez Amontillado Napoleón $19
“This has the complexity of an aged amontillado while retaining the dry, austere finesse and liveliness of a fino.” —P. Liem
“Upfront, it’s really briny, and it has an almondy sort of flavor. It’s really a time and place wine. The real beauty of certain wines is in their context. You’re starting the evening, the sun’s going down in the summer…Sherry in this context is one of the most beautiful things in the world.” —A. Weil
“I’d want this with a dry salty cheese and almonds, or on the back porch, with some nuts.” —E. Railsback
Rosé
Muga
2006 Rioja Rosé $11
“It’s a lot of wine for the money! Very crisp and easy to drink. It’s got really nice acidity, a rose petal color, and lots of strawberry flavor.” —T. Snyder
“This offers more flavor most Rioja rosados while avoiding the watermelon candy syndrome. Instead, it tastes of garnacha’s cherry flavors and tempranillo’s spice, as vibrant as its pink hue.” —T.Q. Thomas
Commanderie de la Bargemone
2007 Coteaux d’Aix en
Provence Rosé $15
“This was my summer outdoor drinking wine last year. I split a case with a friend and kept it around for picnics in Central Park, beach trips to Long Island, pool parties. It’s full of bright strawberry flavors, refreshingly crisp.” —N. Drummer
“I can tell just from seeing the bottle that this needs grilled lamb. People think that rosé is just for summer, but I think it’s great with food all year round.” —J. Marvin
“There’s so much food that can go with this. It’s salty. It’s fatty. Rosé is the most versatile wine out there.” —J. Kosseff
Champagne Brut Special Cuvèe $55
“Bollinger’s collection of reserve wines allows them to make a non-vintage cuvée that has more depth, richness and complexity than most others.” —T.Q. Thomas
“I’d serve it with fried chicken—those bubbles cut through the richness.” —Randy Clement
“Or with smoked salmon lox with a fresh bagel on a Sunday morning.” —Eduardo Porto Carreiro
Crisp White
Aveleda
2006 Vinho Verde Quinta da Aveleda $8
“This was my summer porch wine growing up and in college. I used to have an endless supply. It’s so inviting, so bright and green in the clear glass…it’s one of the world’s most unpretentious wines you’ll come across.”
—E. Porto Carreiro
“This has such low alcohol. People are getting tired of all of those in-your-face wines. Vinho Verde… it’s really an up and coming category. It’s sort of a catchy name—it’s easy to drink, easy to remember, easy to say; it’s the sort of wine people want to be in the know about. I’m from New Orleans and would love it with a po’ boy.” —R. Clement
“Or with an ahi tuna salad.” —Rob Pierce
Palacio de Fefiñanes
2006 Rias Baixas Albariño de Fefiñanes $23
“I like this producer a lot. The wine seems greener in this vintage, without the usual tropical fruit. It would go well with lighter, sashimi-style dishes.” —Eric Railsback
“Or with white fish in a ponzu sauce”
—Eiji Moro
“This is complex and unctuous—albariño at its best. A great partner for scallops.”
—Patricio Tapia
Domaine de la Pepière
2005 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine
Granite de Clisson $22
“This is the first vintage of Granite de Clisson, a sort of “grand cru” of Muscadet from the granite soils of the Massiv Armoricain, and it shows its breed in its subtle fruit and firm, flinty minerality. It should age for a good 20 years—how many Muscadets can you say that about?” —T.Q. Thomas
“It’s got a real brininess. It would go with anything light that has a lot of minerality.”
—E. Railsback
“Grab an oyster, grab a glass, and go to town.” —Alex Weil
Gaia
2007 Santorini Thalassitis $25
“Santorini has become one of my go-to wines for summer and Gaia’s is one of the best. It’s a little citrusy and a lot of mineral—what you might expect from a volcanic Greek isle.” —Josh Greene
“To me this totally a fish—smelt and olives—wine.” —J. Heber
“Something that reminds me of fresh ocean water...Briny, sea shell minerality. Very dry and clean, great with fresh Kumamoto oysters or cedar-smoked salmon.” — N. Daquip
Feudi di San Gregorio
2006 Sannio Falanghina $18
“It’s floral, with an astringent finish—that soft, coating mouthfeel. This is definitely an aperitif wine, great with cured meats.”
—J. Kosseff
“I’d drink it with simply prepared fish. There’s fresh halibut hitting Seattle now.”
—J. Marvin
“This is full of invigorating lemon zest, almond and white stone fruit flavors—delicious with mozzarella di bufala and heirloom tomatoes.” —Nicole Drummer
Marco Porello
2006 Roero Arneis Camestri $16
“Marco Porello is a young winemaker in Piedmont’s Roero, where his family has tended vines for generations. Camestri is his top site for arneis, a vineyard that gives a lot of complexity to what is often a simple white wine.” —W. Weber
“I would classify this as a steely wine. It’s got a salty quality—almost like the salty taste you find in pilsner beer. It would really go well with something from the sea, like some crudo with fleur de sel.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“Or a salty fish, like a brandade, some bacalao.” —R. Clement
Bucci
2006 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
Classico Superiore $22
“Italy’s best white grape. Refreshing, lemony, nutty. A perfect aperitivo. To me, if there’s a path to quality white in Italy, verdicchio is on it.” —J. Heber
“Have that with your Copper River salmon.” —J. Marvin
Bastianich
2006 Colli Orientali del Friuli
Tocai Friulano $17
“You know the flavor of star fruit, the skin? This has that.” —R. Pierce
“There’s a bit of an herbal quality, like dried herbs, celery leaf, a foliage quality. Friuli has been so cutting edge for the past several years and when you taste a wine like this you can see they haven’t let up.”—R. Clement
“In Brazil we make a drink where you just open a passion fruit and let it drip into a glass of rum and at the end there’s almost a fruitlike quality from the seeds. This wine has a quality like that, a bitterness. It’s the sort of wine to have with some crusty bread and prosciutto or dry cheese drizzled with some really good olive oil. You wash it down with a wine like this.” —E. Porto Carreiro
Livio Felluga
2006 Colli Orientali del Friuli Pinot Grigio $25
“Mineral, floral, pear: great combination of rich soil and mineral. It’s hard not to like.”
—J. Kosseff
“It’s definitely picked up more of that mineral character with a year of age. When I first tasted this, it was all sunny pear, lemon-lime and deeper nectarine flavors. It’s richer now, delicious with grilled fish.”
—J. Greene
“I can see it with the halibut with creamy nettles and prosciutto that we do at Beato. There’s a bechamel base of the nettles, and the acidity would cut right through it.”
— Brandon Gillespie
King Estate
2006 Oregon Signature Collection
Pinot Gris $16
“It has a lot more tropical character than most pinot gris. It’s got flavors that you might associate with sauvignon blanc, like passionfruit. With this wine, you could get into dishes that have a little more weight—richer fish, like langoustine and mussels, or chicken with a cream sauce.” —A. Weil
Hanna
2007 Russian River Valley
Sauvignon Blanc $17
“This is textbook California sauvignon blanc.” —J. Kosseff
“Classic, exact typicity. For food, this seems like salad territory; it’s an acid thing.”
—J. Marvin
“I’d serve it with roast chicken, a little bit salty with crispy skin.” —J. Kosseff
Mulderbosch
2007 Stellenbosch Sauvignon Blanc $21
“This is more toned than in years past, really lean and focused. We do this grilled asparagus-and-burrata dish that would be good here.” —J. Heber
“I’ve always liked South African wine, especially the white wines. This is impressive sauvignon blanc.” —J. Marvin
Kim Crawford
2007 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc $17
“You know, you’ve got your citrusy New Zealand sauvignon blanc and your green pepper New Zealand sauvignon blanc—this is the green pepper version right here, all about the herbs, not so much about the gooseberry. I’d serve it with salads and other dishes with uncooked vegetables. I think vegans would love this wine.” —R. Clement
“This would be good with Vietnamese food—not the real spicy stuff, but a stew with fresh herbs.” —E. Porto Carreiro
Shaw + Smith
2007 Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc $23
“Now here’s your citrus…really nice citrus fruit, a hint of orange zest, and grapefruit, along with a touch of some green, like fennel.” —R. Pierce
“This would be great with the large Aussie crayfish they call marron, or with lobster, or salt prawns spritzed with lemon.”
—Patrick J. Comiskey
Casa Marin
2007 San Antonio Valley
Laurel Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc $25
“This is one of the best sauvignons from Chile and a terrific example of Lo Abarca, Chile’s far coast—a great terroir for sauvignon. The wine has a generous texture, in total balance with the mineral acidity.” —P. Tapia
Riesling
J.L. Wolf
2006 Pfalz Wachenheimer Riesling $16
“This is a village-level wine, and yet its sense of place is so profound—that spicy, stony minerality. Unbelievable class and refinement for a wine of this price.” —P. Liem
“It’s lean and citrusy, with sweetness that would really complement spicy dishes. With a chile, pepper, scallion and lemongrass sauce, I think this would be absolutely perfect. It would also be really good with pork, or shellfish with chile.” —A. Weil
Hexamer
2006 Nahe Quarzit Riesling QbA $22
“This is a special selection from a parcel of quartzite soil in the Meddersheimer Rheingrafenberg. It’s always picked at Spätlese level or higher, yet retains a vivid, nearly electric energy and tension thanks to mouthwatering acidity.” —P. Liem
“Riesling is the gateway drug, it’s delicious yet serious. I like this kind of wine with duck breast—the acidity and the richness pairs well with the meat.” —J. Marvin
“When I need a wine at ten A.M. on my deck, this is it.” —J. Heber
Fox Run
2006 Seneca Lake Reserve Riesling $30
“The Finger Lakes has some of the most profound riesling in North America. They’ve got it all there: an ideal climate, steep slopes and slate soils.” —W. Weber
“I would like to see what this is like in ten years; it’s pithy now and I’d like to see that mellow. It’s got great potential to age.” —J. Heber
Frankland Estate
2007 Frankland River
Isolation Ridge Riesling $25
“The palate has a limeade quality, a kind of noble austerity to the texture.”
—E. Porto Carreiro
“I’ve never been to Western Australia, but this is nothing like riesling from Germany, or Alsace…I’d drink it with an applewood smoked pork chop.” —R. Clement
Jacob’s Creek
2006 Barossa Steingarten Riesling $28
“There’s lots of power here, almost a viscous texture, starting to lean toward a little bit of that petrol character. Between these two Australian Rieslings, the Jacob’s Creek definitely is the more versatile, just based on where the wine sits on the palate, its heft and its viscosity.” —R. Clement
Rich White
Château de Chamboureau
2004 Savennières Sec $24
“It has a smoky nuttiness, and a round mouth feel. It doesn’t have too much oak. On the nose, it reminds me of some sort of smelly cheese. It’s got a lot of interesting things that you don’t get in a lot of white wines. Chicken thighs stuffed with goat cheese would be good with this.”—E. Railsback
“It could stand up to marinated olives, or a little cheese plate.” —A. Weil
Schloss Gobelsburg
2006 Kamptal Steinsetz
Grüner Veltliner $24
“Just lovely. Spicy, crisp, great fleshy texture.”—J. Heber
“Steinsetz creates full-bodied, complex veltliner, marked by the minerality of the gravel and loess soils. In Burgundy, a wine of this quality would literally be four or five times the price.” —P. Liem
Del Rio
2006 Rogue Valley Viognier $20
“Del Rio is a giant vineyard that basically made the Rogue Valley appellation.”—J. Kosseff
“This is a great rich white wine that’s not a chardonnay. It’s made for cheese and charcuterie.” — J. Marvin
Zaca Mesa
2006 Santa Ynez Valley Roussanne $25
“Zaca Mesa makes cool wines across the board—it’s a great property. The roussanne and other white Rhône varieties are planted on north-facing slopes, so they get a little less ripe.” —E. Kelley
“Zaca Mesa’s Roussanne is how I got my mother to try something besides California chardonnay.” —W. Weber
“I think white Rhône varietals and pork, savory pork, go really well together.”
—J. Kosseff
Domaine Olivier Pithon
2006 Cotes du Roussillon Cuvée Laïs $28
“This is a regal, rich white, like an Hermitage Blanc if Hermitage were bathed in Roussillon’s warm light. But it’s a fraction of the cost of a great Hermitage Blanc. (It’s also the best wine I’ve ever tasted that’s named after a Jersey cow.)” —T.Q. Thomas
“A wine for the people who don’t like white wine.” —R. Pierce
“The oak seems almost like a bridge to the wines of Burgundy.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“There’s a little honey to the flavor. It’s so pure. I’d pair it with skate wing fried in butter.” —R. Clement
Hogue
2006 Columbia Valley Chardonnay $9
“For people looking for chardonnay it’s got everything; this is the sort of wine that would work in every state in the country. That fleshy mouthfeel, that bit of tropical fruit. It’s a crowd-pleaser.” —R. Pierce
“It’s the right white for a cocktail party, or a ham and gruyère panini.” —J. Greene
Santa Barbara Crossing
2005 Santa Barbara County
Chardonnay $10
“This is a Thanksgiving white. It could also work with a dish of scallops, with a little cinnamon and butternut squash.” —A. Weil
“It’s Central Coast chardonnay all the way, with big, full flavors backed up by salty acidity. A lot of wine for ten bucks.” —W. Weber
Iron Horse
2005 Green Valley Chardonnay $27
“I’ve always liked the Iron Horse wines. It’s a very California style of chardonnay, but these have more acidity that most, which keeps them interesting. It would go with salmon, lobster, crab, and lighter meats.” —A. Weil
“Creamy and rich, with that vibrant acidity. I’d love to see this paired with seared day-boat scallops with an edamame purée and truffled kabayaki sauce...” —N. Daquip
L’Ecole No. 41
2006 Columbia Valley Semillon $16
“From the nose to the mouth to the acidity, this wine’s fruit is well balanced, not overpowering. It’s a great summer patio wine.”
— B. Gillespie
“This would be a good roast turkey wine; it’s appealing.” —E. Kelley
“I’d serve it with smoked fish—salmon, trout.” —J. Marvin
R. López di Heredia
1996 Rioja Viña Gravonia Crianza $27
“I would thank this operation one million times if I could. This is the reward for patience. Almond…marzipan… Amazing wine. It’s the best value here without question.” —R. Pierce
“An Old School white, the kind of wine only López de Heredia and few others produce. Waxy, mineral and fresh…a white for fried sardines.” —P. Tapia
“Or Marcona almonds. You don’t want to get too complicated. I could see a nice bowl of polenta with some Manchego cheese.”
—R. Clement
Sherry
Lustau
Jerez Puerto Fino Solera Reserva $14
“I jumpstart my appetite with fino. It makes me want to eat. This is a wine that gets people hungry.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“I really like the briny, clean flavors. It’s so crisp. I’d have it with oysters or some charcuterie.” —Steve Goldun
Hidalgo
Jerez Amontillado Napoleón $19
“This has the complexity of an aged amontillado while retaining the dry, austere finesse and liveliness of a fino.” —P. Liem
“Upfront, it’s really briny, and it has an almondy sort of flavor. It’s really a time and place wine. The real beauty of certain wines is in their context. You’re starting the evening, the sun’s going down in the summer…Sherry in this context is one of the most beautiful things in the world.” —A. Weil
“I’d want this with a dry salty cheese and almonds, or on the back porch, with some nuts.” —E. Railsback
Rosé
Muga
2006 Rioja Rosé $11
“It’s a lot of wine for the money! Very crisp and easy to drink. It’s got really nice acidity, a rose petal color, and lots of strawberry flavor.” —T. Snyder
“This offers more flavor most Rioja rosados while avoiding the watermelon candy syndrome. Instead, it tastes of garnacha’s cherry flavors and tempranillo’s spice, as vibrant as its pink hue.” —T.Q. Thomas
Commanderie de la Bargemone
2007 Coteaux d’Aix en
Provence Rosé $15
“This was my summer outdoor drinking wine last year. I split a case with a friend and kept it around for picnics in Central Park, beach trips to Long Island, pool parties. It’s full of bright strawberry flavors, refreshingly crisp.” —N. Drummer
“I can tell just from seeing the bottle that this needs grilled lamb. People think that rosé is just for summer, but I think it’s great with food all year round.” —J. Marvin
“There’s so much food that can go with this. It’s salty. It’s fatty. Rosé is the most versatile wine out there.” —J. Kosseff
2006 Rias Baixas Albariño de Fefiñanes $23
“I like this producer a lot. The wine seems greener in this vintage, without the usual tropical fruit. It would go well with lighter, sashimi-style dishes.” —Eric Railsback
“Or with white fish in a ponzu sauce” —Eiji Moro
“This is complex and unctuous—albariño at its best. A great partner for scallops.” —Patricio Tapia
Domaine de la Pepière
2005 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine
Granite de Clisson $22
“This is the first vintage of Granite de Clisson, a sort of “grand cru” of Muscadet from the granite soils of the Massiv Armoricain, and it shows its breed in its subtle fruit and firm, flinty minerality. It should age for a good 20 years—how many Muscadets can you say that about?” —T.Q. Thomas
“It’s got a real brininess. It would go with anything light that has a lot of minerality.”
—E. Railsback
“Grab an oyster, grab a glass, and go to town.” —Alex Weil
Gaia
2007 Santorini Thalassitis $25
“Santorini has become one of my go-to wines for summer and Gaia’s is one of the best. It’s a little citrusy and a lot of mineral—what you might expect from a volcanic Greek isle.” —Josh Greene
“To me this totally a fish—smelt and olives—wine.” —J. Heber
“Something that reminds me of fresh ocean water...Briny, sea shell minerality. Very dry and clean, great with fresh Kumamoto oysters or cedar-smoked salmon.” — N. Daquip
Feudi di San Gregorio
2006 Sannio Falanghina $18
“It’s floral, with an astringent finish—that soft, coating mouthfeel. This is definitely an aperitif wine, great with cured meats.”
—J. Kosseff
“I’d drink it with simply prepared fish. There’s fresh halibut hitting Seattle now.”
—J. Marvin
“This is full of invigorating lemon zest, almond and white stone fruit flavors—delicious with mozzarella di bufala and heirloom tomatoes.” —Nicole Drummer
Marco Porello
2006 Roero Arneis Camestri $16
“Marco Porello is a young winemaker in Piedmont’s Roero, where his family has tended vines for generations. Camestri is his top site for arneis, a vineyard that gives a lot of complexity to what is often a simple white wine.” —W. Weber
“I would classify this as a steely wine. It’s got a salty quality—almost like the salty taste you find in pilsner beer. It would really go well with something from the sea, like some crudo with fleur de sel.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“Or a salty fish, like a brandade, some bacalao.” —R. Clement
Bucci
2006 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
Classico Superiore $22
“Italy’s best white grape. Refreshing, lemony, nutty. A perfect aperitivo. To me, if there’s a path to quality white in Italy, verdicchio is on it.” —J. Heber
“Have that with your Copper River salmon.” —J. Marvin
Bastianich
2006 Colli Orientali del Friuli
Tocai Friulano $17
“You know the flavor of star fruit, the skin? This has that.” —R. Pierce
“There’s a bit of an herbal quality, like dried herbs, celery leaf, a foliage quality. Friuli has been so cutting edge for the past several years and when you taste a wine like this you can see they haven’t let up.”—R. Clement
“In Brazil we make a drink where you just open a passion fruit and let it drip into a glass of rum and at the end there’s almost a fruitlike quality from the seeds. This wine has a quality like that, a bitterness. It’s the sort of wine to have with some crusty bread and prosciutto or dry cheese drizzled with some really good olive oil. You wash it down with a wine like this.” —E. Porto Carreiro
Livio Felluga
2006 Colli Orientali del Friuli Pinot Grigio $25
“Mineral, floral, pear: great combination of rich soil and mineral. It’s hard not to like.”
—J. Kosseff
“It’s definitely picked up more of that mineral character with a year of age. When I first tasted this, it was all sunny pear, lemon-lime and deeper nectarine flavors. It’s richer now, delicious with grilled fish.”
—J. Greene
“I can see it with the halibut with creamy nettles and prosciutto that we do at Beato. There’s a bechamel base of the nettles, and the acidity would cut right through it.”
— Brandon Gillespie
King Estate
2006 Oregon Signature Collection
Pinot Gris $16
“It has a lot more tropical character than most pinot gris. It’s got flavors that you might associate with sauvignon blanc, like passionfruit. With this wine, you could get into dishes that have a little more weight—richer fish, like langoustine and mussels, or chicken with a cream sauce.” —A. Weil
Hanna
2007 Russian River Valley
Sauvignon Blanc $17
“This is textbook California sauvignon blanc.” —J. Kosseff
“Classic, exact typicity. For food, this seems like salad territory; it’s an acid thing.”
—J. Marvin
“I’d serve it with roast chicken, a little bit salty with crispy skin.” —J. Kosseff
Mulderbosch
2007 Stellenbosch Sauvignon Blanc $21
“This is more toned than in years past, really lean and focused. We do this grilled asparagus-and-burrata dish that would be good here.” —J. Heber
“I’ve always liked South African wine, especially the white wines. This is impressive sauvignon blanc.” —J. Marvin
Kim Crawford
2007 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc $17
“You know, you’ve got your citrusy New Zealand sauvignon blanc and your green pepper New Zealand sauvignon blanc—this is the green pepper version right here, all about the herbs, not so much about the gooseberry. I’d serve it with salads and other dishes with uncooked vegetables. I think vegans would love this wine.” —R. Clement
“This would be good with Vietnamese food—not the real spicy stuff, but a stew with fresh herbs.” —E. Porto Carreiro
Shaw + Smith
2007 Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc $23
“Now here’s your citrus…really nice citrus fruit, a hint of orange zest, and grapefruit, along with a touch of some green, like fennel.” —R. Pierce
“This would be great with the large Aussie crayfish they call marron, or with lobster, or salt prawns spritzed with lemon.”
—Patrick J. Comiskey
Casa Marin
2007 San Antonio Valley
Laurel Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc $25
“This is one of the best sauvignons from Chile and a terrific example of Lo Abarca, Chile’s far coast—a great terroir for sauvignon. The wine has a generous texture, in total balance with the mineral acidity.” —P. Tapia
Riesling
J.L. Wolf
2006 Pfalz Wachenheimer Riesling $16
“This is a village-level wine, and yet its sense of place is so profound—that spicy, stony minerality. Unbelievable class and refinement for a wine of this price.” —P. Liem
“It’s lean and citrusy, with sweetness that would really complement spicy dishes. With a chile, pepper, scallion and lemongrass sauce, I think this would be absolutely perfect. It would also be really good with pork, or shellfish with chile.” —A. Weil
Hexamer
2006 Nahe Quarzit Riesling QbA $22
“This is a special selection from a parcel of quartzite soil in the Meddersheimer Rheingrafenberg. It’s always picked at Spätlese level or higher, yet retains a vivid, nearly electric energy and tension thanks to mouthwatering acidity.” —P. Liem
“Riesling is the gateway drug, it’s delicious yet serious. I like this kind of wine with duck breast—the acidity and the richness pairs well with the meat.” —J. Marvin
“When I need a wine at ten A.M. on my deck, this is it.” —J. Heber
Fox Run
2006 Seneca Lake Reserve Riesling $30
“The Finger Lakes has some of the most profound riesling in North America. They’ve got it all there: an ideal climate, steep slopes and slate soils.” —W. Weber
“I would like to see what this is like in ten years; it’s pithy now and I’d like to see that mellow. It’s got great potential to age.” —J. Heber
Frankland Estate
2007 Frankland River
Isolation Ridge Riesling $25
“The palate has a limeade quality, a kind of noble austerity to the texture.”
—E. Porto Carreiro
“I’ve never been to Western Australia, but this is nothing like riesling from Germany, or Alsace…I’d drink it with an applewood smoked pork chop.” —R. Clement
Jacob’s Creek
2006 Barossa Steingarten Riesling $28
“There’s lots of power here, almost a viscous texture, starting to lean toward a little bit of that petrol character. Between these two Australian Rieslings, the Jacob’s Creek definitely is the more versatile, just based on where the wine sits on the palate, its heft and its viscosity.” —R. Clement
Rich White
Château de Chamboureau
2004 Savennières Sec $24
“It has a smoky nuttiness, and a round mouth feel. It doesn’t have too much oak. On the nose, it reminds me of some sort of smelly cheese. It’s got a lot of interesting things that you don’t get in a lot of white wines. Chicken thighs stuffed with goat cheese would be good with this.”—E. Railsback
“It could stand up to marinated olives, or a little cheese plate.” —A. Weil
Schloss Gobelsburg
2006 Kamptal Steinsetz
Grüner Veltliner $24
“Just lovely. Spicy, crisp, great fleshy texture.”—J. Heber
“Steinsetz creates full-bodied, complex veltliner, marked by the minerality of the gravel and loess soils. In Burgundy, a wine of this quality would literally be four or five times the price.” —P. Liem
Del Rio
2006 Rogue Valley Viognier $20
“Del Rio is a giant vineyard that basically made the Rogue Valley appellation.”—J. Kosseff
“This is a great rich white wine that’s not a chardonnay. It’s made for cheese and charcuterie.” — J. Marvin
Zaca Mesa
2006 Santa Ynez Valley Roussanne $25
“Zaca Mesa makes cool wines across the board—it’s a great property. The roussanne and other white Rhône varieties are planted on north-facing slopes, so they get a little less ripe.” —E. Kelley
“Zaca Mesa’s Roussanne is how I got my mother to try something besides California chardonnay.” —W. Weber
“I think white Rhône varietals and pork, savory pork, go really well together.”
—J. Kosseff
Domaine Olivier Pithon
2006 Cotes du Roussillon Cuvée Laïs $28
“This is a regal, rich white, like an Hermitage Blanc if Hermitage were bathed in Roussillon’s warm light. But it’s a fraction of the cost of a great Hermitage Blanc. (It’s also the best wine I’ve ever tasted that’s named after a Jersey cow.)” —T.Q. Thomas
“A wine for the people who don’t like white wine.” —R. Pierce
“The oak seems almost like a bridge to the wines of Burgundy.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“There’s a little honey to the flavor. It’s so pure. I’d pair it with skate wing fried in butter.” —R. Clement
Hogue
2006 Columbia Valley Chardonnay $9
“For people looking for chardonnay it’s got everything; this is the sort of wine that would work in every state in the country. That fleshy mouthfeel, that bit of tropical fruit. It’s a crowd-pleaser.” —R. Pierce
“It’s the right white for a cocktail party, or a ham and gruyère panini.” —J. Greene
Santa Barbara Crossing
2005 Santa Barbara County
Chardonnay $10
“This is a Thanksgiving white. It could also work with a dish of scallops, with a little cinnamon and butternut squash.” —A. Weil
“It’s Central Coast chardonnay all the way, with big, full flavors backed up by salty acidity. A lot of wine for ten bucks.” —W. Weber
Iron Horse
2005 Green Valley Chardonnay $27
“I’ve always liked the Iron Horse wines. It’s a very California style of chardonnay, but these have more acidity that most, which keeps them interesting. It would go with salmon, lobster, crab, and lighter meats.” —A. Weil
“Creamy and rich, with that vibrant acidity. I’d love to see this paired with seared day-boat scallops with an edamame purée and truffled kabayaki sauce...” —N. Daquip
L’Ecole No. 41
2006 Columbia Valley Semillon $16
“From the nose to the mouth to the acidity, this wine’s fruit is well balanced, not overpowering. It’s a great summer patio wine.”
— B. Gillespie
“This would be a good roast turkey wine; it’s appealing.” —E. Kelley
“I’d serve it with smoked fish—salmon, trout.” —J. Marvin
R. López di Heredia
1996 Rioja Viña Gravonia Crianza $27
“I would thank this operation one million times if I could. This is the reward for patience. Almond…marzipan… Amazing wine. It’s the best value here without question.” —R. Pierce
“An Old School white, the kind of wine only López de Heredia and few others produce. Waxy, mineral and fresh…a white for fried sardines.” —P. Tapia
“Or Marcona almonds. You don’t want to get too complicated. I could see a nice bowl of polenta with some Manchego cheese.”
—R. Clement
Sherry
Lustau
Jerez Puerto Fino Solera Reserva $14
“I jumpstart my appetite with fino. It makes me want to eat. This is a wine that gets people hungry.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“I really like the briny, clean flavors. It’s so crisp. I’d have it with oysters or some charcuterie.” —Steve Goldun
Hidalgo
Jerez Amontillado Napoleón $19
“This has the complexity of an aged amontillado while retaining the dry, austere finesse and liveliness of a fino.” —P. Liem
“Upfront, it’s really briny, and it has an almondy sort of flavor. It’s really a time and place wine. The real beauty of certain wines is in their context. You’re starting the evening, the sun’s going down in the summer…Sherry in this context is one of the most beautiful things in the world.” —A. Weil
“I’d want this with a dry salty cheese and almonds, or on the back porch, with some nuts.” —E. Railsback
Rosé
Muga
2006 Rioja Rosé $11
“It’s a lot of wine for the money! Very crisp and easy to drink. It’s got really nice acidity, a rose petal color, and lots of strawberry flavor.” —T. Snyder
“This offers more flavor most Rioja rosados while avoiding the watermelon candy syndrome. Instead, it tastes of garnacha’s cherry flavors and tempranillo’s spice, as vibrant as its pink hue.” —T.Q. Thomas
Commanderie de la Bargemone
2007 Coteaux d’Aix en
Provence Rosé $15
“This was my summer outdoor drinking wine last year. I split a case with a friend and kept it around for picnics in Central Park, beach trips to Long Island, pool parties. It’s full of bright strawberry flavors, refreshingly crisp.” —N. Drummer
“I can tell just from seeing the bottle that this needs grilled lamb. People think that rosé is just for summer, but I think it’s great with food all year round.” —J. Marvin
“There’s so much food that can go with this. It’s salty. It’s fatty. Rosé is the most versatile wine out there.” —J. Kosseff
2007 Santorini Thalassitis $25
“Santorini has become one of my go-to wines for summer and Gaia’s is one of the best. It’s a little citrusy and a lot of mineral—what you might expect from a volcanic Greek isle.” —Josh Greene
“To me this totally a fish—smelt and olives—wine.” —J. Heber
“Something that reminds me of fresh ocean water...Briny, sea shell minerality. Very dry and clean, great with fresh Kumamoto oysters or cedar-smoked salmon.” — N. Daquip
Feudi di San Gregorio
2006 Sannio Falanghina $18
“It’s floral, with an astringent finish—that soft, coating mouthfeel. This is definitely an aperitif wine, great with cured meats.”
—J. Kosseff
“I’d drink it with simply prepared fish. There’s fresh halibut hitting Seattle now.”
—J. Marvin
“This is full of invigorating lemon zest, almond and white stone fruit flavors—delicious with mozzarella di bufala and heirloom tomatoes.” —Nicole Drummer
Marco Porello
2006 Roero Arneis Camestri $16
“Marco Porello is a young winemaker in Piedmont’s Roero, where his family has tended vines for generations. Camestri is his top site for arneis, a vineyard that gives a lot of complexity to what is often a simple white wine.” —W. Weber
“I would classify this as a steely wine. It’s got a salty quality—almost like the salty taste you find in pilsner beer. It would really go well with something from the sea, like some crudo with fleur de sel.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“Or a salty fish, like a brandade, some bacalao.” —R. Clement
Bucci
2006 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
Classico Superiore $22
“Italy’s best white grape. Refreshing, lemony, nutty. A perfect aperitivo. To me, if there’s a path to quality white in Italy, verdicchio is on it.” —J. Heber
“Have that with your Copper River salmon.” —J. Marvin
Bastianich
2006 Colli Orientali del Friuli
Tocai Friulano $17
“You know the flavor of star fruit, the skin? This has that.” —R. Pierce
“There’s a bit of an herbal quality, like dried herbs, celery leaf, a foliage quality. Friuli has been so cutting edge for the past several years and when you taste a wine like this you can see they haven’t let up.”—R. Clement
“In Brazil we make a drink where you just open a passion fruit and let it drip into a glass of rum and at the end there’s almost a fruitlike quality from the seeds. This wine has a quality like that, a bitterness. It’s the sort of wine to have with some crusty bread and prosciutto or dry cheese drizzled with some really good olive oil. You wash it down with a wine like this.” —E. Porto Carreiro
Livio Felluga
2006 Colli Orientali del Friuli Pinot Grigio $25
“Mineral, floral, pear: great combination of rich soil and mineral. It’s hard not to like.”
—J. Kosseff
“It’s definitely picked up more of that mineral character with a year of age. When I first tasted this, it was all sunny pear, lemon-lime and deeper nectarine flavors. It’s richer now, delicious with grilled fish.”
—J. Greene
“I can see it with the halibut with creamy nettles and prosciutto that we do at Beato. There’s a bechamel base of the nettles, and the acidity would cut right through it.”
— Brandon Gillespie
King Estate
2006 Oregon Signature Collection
Pinot Gris $16
“It has a lot more tropical character than most pinot gris. It’s got flavors that you might associate with sauvignon blanc, like passionfruit. With this wine, you could get into dishes that have a little more weight—richer fish, like langoustine and mussels, or chicken with a cream sauce.” —A. Weil
Hanna
2007 Russian River Valley
Sauvignon Blanc $17
“This is textbook California sauvignon blanc.” —J. Kosseff
“Classic, exact typicity. For food, this seems like salad territory; it’s an acid thing.”
—J. Marvin
“I’d serve it with roast chicken, a little bit salty with crispy skin.” —J. Kosseff
Mulderbosch
2007 Stellenbosch Sauvignon Blanc $21
“This is more toned than in years past, really lean and focused. We do this grilled asparagus-and-burrata dish that would be good here.” —J. Heber
“I’ve always liked South African wine, especially the white wines. This is impressive sauvignon blanc.” —J. Marvin
Kim Crawford
2007 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc $17
“You know, you’ve got your citrusy New Zealand sauvignon blanc and your green pepper New Zealand sauvignon blanc—this is the green pepper version right here, all about the herbs, not so much about the gooseberry. I’d serve it with salads and other dishes with uncooked vegetables. I think vegans would love this wine.” —R. Clement
“This would be good with Vietnamese food—not the real spicy stuff, but a stew with fresh herbs.” —E. Porto Carreiro
Shaw + Smith
2007 Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc $23
“Now here’s your citrus…really nice citrus fruit, a hint of orange zest, and grapefruit, along with a touch of some green, like fennel.” —R. Pierce
“This would be great with the large Aussie crayfish they call marron, or with lobster, or salt prawns spritzed with lemon.”
—Patrick J. Comiskey
Casa Marin
2007 San Antonio Valley
Laurel Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc $25
“This is one of the best sauvignons from Chile and a terrific example of Lo Abarca, Chile’s far coast—a great terroir for sauvignon. The wine has a generous texture, in total balance with the mineral acidity.” —P. Tapia
Riesling
J.L. Wolf
2006 Pfalz Wachenheimer Riesling $16
“This is a village-level wine, and yet its sense of place is so profound—that spicy, stony minerality. Unbelievable class and refinement for a wine of this price.” —P. Liem
“It’s lean and citrusy, with sweetness that would really complement spicy dishes. With a chile, pepper, scallion and lemongrass sauce, I think this would be absolutely perfect. It would also be really good with pork, or shellfish with chile.” —A. Weil
Hexamer
2006 Nahe Quarzit Riesling QbA $22
“This is a special selection from a parcel of quartzite soil in the Meddersheimer Rheingrafenberg. It’s always picked at Spätlese level or higher, yet retains a vivid, nearly electric energy and tension thanks to mouthwatering acidity.” —P. Liem
“Riesling is the gateway drug, it’s delicious yet serious. I like this kind of wine with duck breast—the acidity and the richness pairs well with the meat.” —J. Marvin
“When I need a wine at ten A.M. on my deck, this is it.” —J. Heber
Fox Run
2006 Seneca Lake Reserve Riesling $30
“The Finger Lakes has some of the most profound riesling in North America. They’ve got it all there: an ideal climate, steep slopes and slate soils.” —W. Weber
“I would like to see what this is like in ten years; it’s pithy now and I’d like to see that mellow. It’s got great potential to age.” —J. Heber
Frankland Estate
2007 Frankland River
Isolation Ridge Riesling $25
“The palate has a limeade quality, a kind of noble austerity to the texture.”
—E. Porto Carreiro
“I’ve never been to Western Australia, but this is nothing like riesling from Germany, or Alsace…I’d drink it with an applewood smoked pork chop.” —R. Clement
Jacob’s Creek
2006 Barossa Steingarten Riesling $28
“There’s lots of power here, almost a viscous texture, starting to lean toward a little bit of that petrol character. Between these two Australian Rieslings, the Jacob’s Creek definitely is the more versatile, just based on where the wine sits on the palate, its heft and its viscosity.” —R. Clement
Rich White
Château de Chamboureau
2004 Savennières Sec $24
“It has a smoky nuttiness, and a round mouth feel. It doesn’t have too much oak. On the nose, it reminds me of some sort of smelly cheese. It’s got a lot of interesting things that you don’t get in a lot of white wines. Chicken thighs stuffed with goat cheese would be good with this.”—E. Railsback
“It could stand up to marinated olives, or a little cheese plate.” —A. Weil
Schloss Gobelsburg
2006 Kamptal Steinsetz
Grüner Veltliner $24
“Just lovely. Spicy, crisp, great fleshy texture.”—J. Heber
“Steinsetz creates full-bodied, complex veltliner, marked by the minerality of the gravel and loess soils. In Burgundy, a wine of this quality would literally be four or five times the price.” —P. Liem
Del Rio
2006 Rogue Valley Viognier $20
“Del Rio is a giant vineyard that basically made the Rogue Valley appellation.”—J. Kosseff
“This is a great rich white wine that’s not a chardonnay. It’s made for cheese and charcuterie.” — J. Marvin
Zaca Mesa
2006 Santa Ynez Valley Roussanne $25
“Zaca Mesa makes cool wines across the board—it’s a great property. The roussanne and other white Rhône varieties are planted on north-facing slopes, so they get a little less ripe.” —E. Kelley
“Zaca Mesa’s Roussanne is how I got my mother to try something besides California chardonnay.” —W. Weber
“I think white Rhône varietals and pork, savory pork, go really well together.”
—J. Kosseff
Domaine Olivier Pithon
2006 Cotes du Roussillon Cuvée Laïs $28
“This is a regal, rich white, like an Hermitage Blanc if Hermitage were bathed in Roussillon’s warm light. But it’s a fraction of the cost of a great Hermitage Blanc. (It’s also the best wine I’ve ever tasted that’s named after a Jersey cow.)” —T.Q. Thomas
“A wine for the people who don’t like white wine.” —R. Pierce
“The oak seems almost like a bridge to the wines of Burgundy.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“There’s a little honey to the flavor. It’s so pure. I’d pair it with skate wing fried in butter.” —R. Clement
Hogue
2006 Columbia Valley Chardonnay $9
“For people looking for chardonnay it’s got everything; this is the sort of wine that would work in every state in the country. That fleshy mouthfeel, that bit of tropical fruit. It’s a crowd-pleaser.” —R. Pierce
“It’s the right white for a cocktail party, or a ham and gruyère panini.” —J. Greene
Santa Barbara Crossing
2005 Santa Barbara County
Chardonnay $10
“This is a Thanksgiving white. It could also work with a dish of scallops, with a little cinnamon and butternut squash.” —A. Weil
“It’s Central Coast chardonnay all the way, with big, full flavors backed up by salty acidity. A lot of wine for ten bucks.” —W. Weber
Iron Horse
2005 Green Valley Chardonnay $27
“I’ve always liked the Iron Horse wines. It’s a very California style of chardonnay, but these have more acidity that most, which keeps them interesting. It would go with salmon, lobster, crab, and lighter meats.” —A. Weil
“Creamy and rich, with that vibrant acidity. I’d love to see this paired with seared day-boat scallops with an edamame purée and truffled kabayaki sauce...” —N. Daquip
L’Ecole No. 41
2006 Columbia Valley Semillon $16
“From the nose to the mouth to the acidity, this wine’s fruit is well balanced, not overpowering. It’s a great summer patio wine.”
— B. Gillespie
“This would be a good roast turkey wine; it’s appealing.” —E. Kelley
“I’d serve it with smoked fish—salmon, trout.” —J. Marvin
R. López di Heredia
1996 Rioja Viña Gravonia Crianza $27
“I would thank this operation one million times if I could. This is the reward for patience. Almond…marzipan… Amazing wine. It’s the best value here without question.” —R. Pierce
“An Old School white, the kind of wine only López de Heredia and few others produce. Waxy, mineral and fresh…a white for fried sardines.” —P. Tapia
“Or Marcona almonds. You don’t want to get too complicated. I could see a nice bowl of polenta with some Manchego cheese.”
—R. Clement
Sherry
Lustau
Jerez Puerto Fino Solera Reserva $14
“I jumpstart my appetite with fino. It makes me want to eat. This is a wine that gets people hungry.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“I really like the briny, clean flavors. It’s so crisp. I’d have it with oysters or some charcuterie.” —Steve Goldun
Hidalgo
Jerez Amontillado Napoleón $19
“This has the complexity of an aged amontillado while retaining the dry, austere finesse and liveliness of a fino.” —P. Liem
“Upfront, it’s really briny, and it has an almondy sort of flavor. It’s really a time and place wine. The real beauty of certain wines is in their context. You’re starting the evening, the sun’s going down in the summer…Sherry in this context is one of the most beautiful things in the world.” —A. Weil
“I’d want this with a dry salty cheese and almonds, or on the back porch, with some nuts.” —E. Railsback
Rosé
Muga
2006 Rioja Rosé $11
“It’s a lot of wine for the money! Very crisp and easy to drink. It’s got really nice acidity, a rose petal color, and lots of strawberry flavor.” —T. Snyder
“This offers more flavor most Rioja rosados while avoiding the watermelon candy syndrome. Instead, it tastes of garnacha’s cherry flavors and tempranillo’s spice, as vibrant as its pink hue.” —T.Q. Thomas
Commanderie de la Bargemone
2007 Coteaux d’Aix en
Provence Rosé $15
“This was my summer outdoor drinking wine last year. I split a case with a friend and kept it around for picnics in Central Park, beach trips to Long Island, pool parties. It’s full of bright strawberry flavors, refreshingly crisp.” —N. Drummer
“I can tell just from seeing the bottle that this needs grilled lamb. People think that rosé is just for summer, but I think it’s great with food all year round.” —J. Marvin
“There’s so much food that can go with this. It’s salty. It’s fatty. Rosé is the most versatile wine out there.” —J. Kosseff
2006 Roero Arneis Camestri $16
“Marco Porello is a young winemaker in Piedmont’s Roero, where his family has tended vines for generations. Camestri is his top site for arneis, a vineyard that gives a lot of complexity to what is often a simple white wine.” —W. Weber
“I would classify this as a steely wine. It’s got a salty quality—almost like the salty taste you find in pilsner beer. It would really go well with something from the sea, like some crudo with fleur de sel.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“Or a salty fish, like a brandade, some bacalao.” —R. Clement
Bucci
2006 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
Classico Superiore $22
“Italy’s best white grape. Refreshing, lemony, nutty. A perfect aperitivo. To me, if there’s a path to quality white in Italy, verdicchio is on it.” —J. Heber
“Have that with your Copper River salmon.” —J. Marvin
Bastianich
2006 Colli Orientali del Friuli
Tocai Friulano $17
“You know the flavor of star fruit, the skin? This has that.” —R. Pierce
“There’s a bit of an herbal quality, like dried herbs, celery leaf, a foliage quality. Friuli has been so cutting edge for the past several years and when you taste a wine like this you can see they haven’t let up.”—R. Clement
“In Brazil we make a drink where you just open a passion fruit and let it drip into a glass of rum and at the end there’s almost a fruitlike quality from the seeds. This wine has a quality like that, a bitterness. It’s the sort of wine to have with some crusty bread and prosciutto or dry cheese drizzled with some really good olive oil. You wash it down with a wine like this.” —E. Porto Carreiro
Livio Felluga
2006 Colli Orientali del Friuli Pinot Grigio $25
“Mineral, floral, pear: great combination of rich soil and mineral. It’s hard not to like.”
—J. Kosseff
“It’s definitely picked up more of that mineral character with a year of age. When I first tasted this, it was all sunny pear, lemon-lime and deeper nectarine flavors. It’s richer now, delicious with grilled fish.”
—J. Greene
“I can see it with the halibut with creamy nettles and prosciutto that we do at Beato. There’s a bechamel base of the nettles, and the acidity would cut right through it.”
— Brandon Gillespie
King Estate
2006 Oregon Signature Collection
Pinot Gris $16
“It has a lot more tropical character than most pinot gris. It’s got flavors that you might associate with sauvignon blanc, like passionfruit. With this wine, you could get into dishes that have a little more weight—richer fish, like langoustine and mussels, or chicken with a cream sauce.” —A. Weil
Hanna
2007 Russian River Valley
Sauvignon Blanc $17
“This is textbook California sauvignon blanc.” —J. Kosseff
“Classic, exact typicity. For food, this seems like salad territory; it’s an acid thing.”
—J. Marvin
“I’d serve it with roast chicken, a little bit salty with crispy skin.” —J. Kosseff
Mulderbosch
2007 Stellenbosch Sauvignon Blanc $21
“This is more toned than in years past, really lean and focused. We do this grilled asparagus-and-burrata dish that would be good here.” —J. Heber
“I’ve always liked South African wine, especially the white wines. This is impressive sauvignon blanc.” —J. Marvin
Kim Crawford
2007 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc $17
“You know, you’ve got your citrusy New Zealand sauvignon blanc and your green pepper New Zealand sauvignon blanc—this is the green pepper version right here, all about the herbs, not so much about the gooseberry. I’d serve it with salads and other dishes with uncooked vegetables. I think vegans would love this wine.” —R. Clement
“This would be good with Vietnamese food—not the real spicy stuff, but a stew with fresh herbs.” —E. Porto Carreiro
Shaw + Smith
2007 Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc $23
“Now here’s your citrus…really nice citrus fruit, a hint of orange zest, and grapefruit, along with a touch of some green, like fennel.” —R. Pierce
“This would be great with the large Aussie crayfish they call marron, or with lobster, or salt prawns spritzed with lemon.”
—Patrick J. Comiskey
Casa Marin
2007 San Antonio Valley
Laurel Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc $25
“This is one of the best sauvignons from Chile and a terrific example of Lo Abarca, Chile’s far coast—a great terroir for sauvignon. The wine has a generous texture, in total balance with the mineral acidity.” —P. Tapia
Riesling
J.L. Wolf
2006 Pfalz Wachenheimer Riesling $16
“This is a village-level wine, and yet its sense of place is so profound—that spicy, stony minerality. Unbelievable class and refinement for a wine of this price.” —P. Liem
“It’s lean and citrusy, with sweetness that would really complement spicy dishes. With a chile, pepper, scallion and lemongrass sauce, I think this would be absolutely perfect. It would also be really good with pork, or shellfish with chile.” —A. Weil
Hexamer
2006 Nahe Quarzit Riesling QbA $22
“This is a special selection from a parcel of quartzite soil in the Meddersheimer Rheingrafenberg. It’s always picked at Spätlese level or higher, yet retains a vivid, nearly electric energy and tension thanks to mouthwatering acidity.” —P. Liem
“Riesling is the gateway drug, it’s delicious yet serious. I like this kind of wine with duck breast—the acidity and the richness pairs well with the meat.” —J. Marvin
“When I need a wine at ten A.M. on my deck, this is it.” —J. Heber
Fox Run
2006 Seneca Lake Reserve Riesling $30
“The Finger Lakes has some of the most profound riesling in North America. They’ve got it all there: an ideal climate, steep slopes and slate soils.” —W. Weber
“I would like to see what this is like in ten years; it’s pithy now and I’d like to see that mellow. It’s got great potential to age.” —J. Heber
Frankland Estate
2007 Frankland River
Isolation Ridge Riesling $25
“The palate has a limeade quality, a kind of noble austerity to the texture.”
—E. Porto Carreiro
“I’ve never been to Western Australia, but this is nothing like riesling from Germany, or Alsace…I’d drink it with an applewood smoked pork chop.” —R. Clement
Jacob’s Creek
2006 Barossa Steingarten Riesling $28
“There’s lots of power here, almost a viscous texture, starting to lean toward a little bit of that petrol character. Between these two Australian Rieslings, the Jacob’s Creek definitely is the more versatile, just based on where the wine sits on the palate, its heft and its viscosity.” —R. Clement
Rich White
Château de Chamboureau
2004 Savennières Sec $24
“It has a smoky nuttiness, and a round mouth feel. It doesn’t have too much oak. On the nose, it reminds me of some sort of smelly cheese. It’s got a lot of interesting things that you don’t get in a lot of white wines. Chicken thighs stuffed with goat cheese would be good with this.”—E. Railsback
“It could stand up to marinated olives, or a little cheese plate.” —A. Weil
Schloss Gobelsburg
2006 Kamptal Steinsetz
Grüner Veltliner $24
“Just lovely. Spicy, crisp, great fleshy texture.”—J. Heber
“Steinsetz creates full-bodied, complex veltliner, marked by the minerality of the gravel and loess soils. In Burgundy, a wine of this quality would literally be four or five times the price.” —P. Liem
Del Rio
2006 Rogue Valley Viognier $20
“Del Rio is a giant vineyard that basically made the Rogue Valley appellation.”—J. Kosseff
“This is a great rich white wine that’s not a chardonnay. It’s made for cheese and charcuterie.” — J. Marvin
Zaca Mesa
2006 Santa Ynez Valley Roussanne $25
“Zaca Mesa makes cool wines across the board—it’s a great property. The roussanne and other white Rhône varieties are planted on north-facing slopes, so they get a little less ripe.” —E. Kelley
“Zaca Mesa’s Roussanne is how I got my mother to try something besides California chardonnay.” —W. Weber
“I think white Rhône varietals and pork, savory pork, go really well together.”
—J. Kosseff
Domaine Olivier Pithon
2006 Cotes du Roussillon Cuvée Laïs $28
“This is a regal, rich white, like an Hermitage Blanc if Hermitage were bathed in Roussillon’s warm light. But it’s a fraction of the cost of a great Hermitage Blanc. (It’s also the best wine I’ve ever tasted that’s named after a Jersey cow.)” —T.Q. Thomas
“A wine for the people who don’t like white wine.” —R. Pierce
“The oak seems almost like a bridge to the wines of Burgundy.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“There’s a little honey to the flavor. It’s so pure. I’d pair it with skate wing fried in butter.” —R. Clement
Hogue
2006 Columbia Valley Chardonnay $9
“For people looking for chardonnay it’s got everything; this is the sort of wine that would work in every state in the country. That fleshy mouthfeel, that bit of tropical fruit. It’s a crowd-pleaser.” —R. Pierce
“It’s the right white for a cocktail party, or a ham and gruyère panini.” —J. Greene
Santa Barbara Crossing
2005 Santa Barbara County
Chardonnay $10
“This is a Thanksgiving white. It could also work with a dish of scallops, with a little cinnamon and butternut squash.” —A. Weil
“It’s Central Coast chardonnay all the way, with big, full flavors backed up by salty acidity. A lot of wine for ten bucks.” —W. Weber
Iron Horse
2005 Green Valley Chardonnay $27
“I’ve always liked the Iron Horse wines. It’s a very California style of chardonnay, but these have more acidity that most, which keeps them interesting. It would go with salmon, lobster, crab, and lighter meats.” —A. Weil
“Creamy and rich, with that vibrant acidity. I’d love to see this paired with seared day-boat scallops with an edamame purée and truffled kabayaki sauce...” —N. Daquip
L’Ecole No. 41
2006 Columbia Valley Semillon $16
“From the nose to the mouth to the acidity, this wine’s fruit is well balanced, not overpowering. It’s a great summer patio wine.”
— B. Gillespie
“This would be a good roast turkey wine; it’s appealing.” —E. Kelley
“I’d serve it with smoked fish—salmon, trout.” —J. Marvin
R. López di Heredia
1996 Rioja Viña Gravonia Crianza $27
“I would thank this operation one million times if I could. This is the reward for patience. Almond…marzipan… Amazing wine. It’s the best value here without question.” —R. Pierce
“An Old School white, the kind of wine only López de Heredia and few others produce. Waxy, mineral and fresh…a white for fried sardines.” —P. Tapia
“Or Marcona almonds. You don’t want to get too complicated. I could see a nice bowl of polenta with some Manchego cheese.”
—R. Clement
Sherry
Lustau
Jerez Puerto Fino Solera Reserva $14
“I jumpstart my appetite with fino. It makes me want to eat. This is a wine that gets people hungry.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“I really like the briny, clean flavors. It’s so crisp. I’d have it with oysters or some charcuterie.” —Steve Goldun
Hidalgo
Jerez Amontillado Napoleón $19
“This has the complexity of an aged amontillado while retaining the dry, austere finesse and liveliness of a fino.” —P. Liem
“Upfront, it’s really briny, and it has an almondy sort of flavor. It’s really a time and place wine. The real beauty of certain wines is in their context. You’re starting the evening, the sun’s going down in the summer…Sherry in this context is one of the most beautiful things in the world.” —A. Weil
“I’d want this with a dry salty cheese and almonds, or on the back porch, with some nuts.” —E. Railsback
Rosé
Muga
2006 Rioja Rosé $11
“It’s a lot of wine for the money! Very crisp and easy to drink. It’s got really nice acidity, a rose petal color, and lots of strawberry flavor.” —T. Snyder
“This offers more flavor most Rioja rosados while avoiding the watermelon candy syndrome. Instead, it tastes of garnacha’s cherry flavors and tempranillo’s spice, as vibrant as its pink hue.” —T.Q. Thomas
Commanderie de la Bargemone
2007 Coteaux d’Aix en
Provence Rosé $15
“This was my summer outdoor drinking wine last year. I split a case with a friend and kept it around for picnics in Central Park, beach trips to Long Island, pool parties. It’s full of bright strawberry flavors, refreshingly crisp.” —N. Drummer
“I can tell just from seeing the bottle that this needs grilled lamb. People think that rosé is just for summer, but I think it’s great with food all year round.” —J. Marvin
“There’s so much food that can go with this. It’s salty. It’s fatty. Rosé is the most versatile wine out there.” —J. Kosseff
2006 Colli Orientali del Friuli Tocai Friulano $17
“You know the flavor of star fruit, the skin? This has that.” —R. Pierce
“There’s a bit of an herbal quality, like dried herbs, celery leaf, a foliage quality. Friuli has been so cutting edge for the past several years and when you taste a wine like this you can see they haven’t let up.”—R. Clement
“In Brazil we make a drink where you just open a passion fruit and let it drip into a glass of rum and at the end there’s almost a fruitlike quality from the seeds. This wine has a quality like that, a bitterness. It’s the sort of wine to have with some crusty bread and prosciutto or dry cheese drizzled with some really good olive oil. You wash it down with a wine like this.” —E. Porto Carreiro
Livio Felluga
2006 Colli Orientali del Friuli Pinot Grigio $25
“Mineral, floral, pear: great combination of rich soil and mineral. It’s hard not to like.”
—J. Kosseff
“It’s definitely picked up more of that mineral character with a year of age. When I first tasted this, it was all sunny pear, lemon-lime and deeper nectarine flavors. It’s richer now, delicious with grilled fish.”
—J. Greene
“I can see it with the halibut with creamy nettles and prosciutto that we do at Beato. There’s a bechamel base of the nettles, and the acidity would cut right through it.”
— Brandon Gillespie
King Estate
2006 Oregon Signature Collection
Pinot Gris $16
“It has a lot more tropical character than most pinot gris. It’s got flavors that you might associate with sauvignon blanc, like passionfruit. With this wine, you could get into dishes that have a little more weight—richer fish, like langoustine and mussels, or chicken with a cream sauce.” —A. Weil
Hanna
2007 Russian River Valley
Sauvignon Blanc $17
“This is textbook California sauvignon blanc.” —J. Kosseff
“Classic, exact typicity. For food, this seems like salad territory; it’s an acid thing.”
—J. Marvin
“I’d serve it with roast chicken, a little bit salty with crispy skin.” —J. Kosseff
Mulderbosch
2007 Stellenbosch Sauvignon Blanc $21
“This is more toned than in years past, really lean and focused. We do this grilled asparagus-and-burrata dish that would be good here.” —J. Heber
“I’ve always liked South African wine, especially the white wines. This is impressive sauvignon blanc.” —J. Marvin
Kim Crawford
2007 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc $17
“You know, you’ve got your citrusy New Zealand sauvignon blanc and your green pepper New Zealand sauvignon blanc—this is the green pepper version right here, all about the herbs, not so much about the gooseberry. I’d serve it with salads and other dishes with uncooked vegetables. I think vegans would love this wine.” —R. Clement
“This would be good with Vietnamese food—not the real spicy stuff, but a stew with fresh herbs.” —E. Porto Carreiro
Shaw + Smith
2007 Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc $23
“Now here’s your citrus…really nice citrus fruit, a hint of orange zest, and grapefruit, along with a touch of some green, like fennel.” —R. Pierce
“This would be great with the large Aussie crayfish they call marron, or with lobster, or salt prawns spritzed with lemon.”
—Patrick J. Comiskey
Casa Marin
2007 San Antonio Valley
Laurel Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc $25
“This is one of the best sauvignons from Chile and a terrific example of Lo Abarca, Chile’s far coast—a great terroir for sauvignon. The wine has a generous texture, in total balance with the mineral acidity.” —P. Tapia
Riesling
J.L. Wolf
2006 Pfalz Wachenheimer Riesling $16
“This is a village-level wine, and yet its sense of place is so profound—that spicy, stony minerality. Unbelievable class and refinement for a wine of this price.” —P. Liem
“It’s lean and citrusy, with sweetness that would really complement spicy dishes. With a chile, pepper, scallion and lemongrass sauce, I think this would be absolutely perfect. It would also be really good with pork, or shellfish with chile.” —A. Weil
Hexamer
2006 Nahe Quarzit Riesling QbA $22
“This is a special selection from a parcel of quartzite soil in the Meddersheimer Rheingrafenberg. It’s always picked at Spätlese level or higher, yet retains a vivid, nearly electric energy and tension thanks to mouthwatering acidity.” —P. Liem
“Riesling is the gateway drug, it’s delicious yet serious. I like this kind of wine with duck breast—the acidity and the richness pairs well with the meat.” —J. Marvin
“When I need a wine at ten A.M. on my deck, this is it.” —J. Heber
Fox Run
2006 Seneca Lake Reserve Riesling $30
“The Finger Lakes has some of the most profound riesling in North America. They’ve got it all there: an ideal climate, steep slopes and slate soils.” —W. Weber
“I would like to see what this is like in ten years; it’s pithy now and I’d like to see that mellow. It’s got great potential to age.” —J. Heber
Frankland Estate
2007 Frankland River
Isolation Ridge Riesling $25
“The palate has a limeade quality, a kind of noble austerity to the texture.”
—E. Porto Carreiro
“I’ve never been to Western Australia, but this is nothing like riesling from Germany, or Alsace…I’d drink it with an applewood smoked pork chop.” —R. Clement
Jacob’s Creek
2006 Barossa Steingarten Riesling $28
“There’s lots of power here, almost a viscous texture, starting to lean toward a little bit of that petrol character. Between these two Australian Rieslings, the Jacob’s Creek definitely is the more versatile, just based on where the wine sits on the palate, its heft and its viscosity.” —R. Clement
Rich White
Château de Chamboureau
2004 Savennières Sec $24
“It has a smoky nuttiness, and a round mouth feel. It doesn’t have too much oak. On the nose, it reminds me of some sort of smelly cheese. It’s got a lot of interesting things that you don’t get in a lot of white wines. Chicken thighs stuffed with goat cheese would be good with this.”—E. Railsback
“It could stand up to marinated olives, or a little cheese plate.” —A. Weil
Schloss Gobelsburg
2006 Kamptal Steinsetz
Grüner Veltliner $24
“Just lovely. Spicy, crisp, great fleshy texture.”—J. Heber
“Steinsetz creates full-bodied, complex veltliner, marked by the minerality of the gravel and loess soils. In Burgundy, a wine of this quality would literally be four or five times the price.” —P. Liem
Del Rio
2006 Rogue Valley Viognier $20
“Del Rio is a giant vineyard that basically made the Rogue Valley appellation.”—J. Kosseff
“This is a great rich white wine that’s not a chardonnay. It’s made for cheese and charcuterie.” — J. Marvin
Zaca Mesa
2006 Santa Ynez Valley Roussanne $25
“Zaca Mesa makes cool wines across the board—it’s a great property. The roussanne and other white Rhône varieties are planted on north-facing slopes, so they get a little less ripe.” —E. Kelley
“Zaca Mesa’s Roussanne is how I got my mother to try something besides California chardonnay.” —W. Weber
“I think white Rhône varietals and pork, savory pork, go really well together.”
—J. Kosseff
Domaine Olivier Pithon
2006 Cotes du Roussillon Cuvée Laïs $28
“This is a regal, rich white, like an Hermitage Blanc if Hermitage were bathed in Roussillon’s warm light. But it’s a fraction of the cost of a great Hermitage Blanc. (It’s also the best wine I’ve ever tasted that’s named after a Jersey cow.)” —T.Q. Thomas
“A wine for the people who don’t like white wine.” —R. Pierce
“The oak seems almost like a bridge to the wines of Burgundy.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“There’s a little honey to the flavor. It’s so pure. I’d pair it with skate wing fried in butter.” —R. Clement
Hogue
2006 Columbia Valley Chardonnay $9
“For people looking for chardonnay it’s got everything; this is the sort of wine that would work in every state in the country. That fleshy mouthfeel, that bit of tropical fruit. It’s a crowd-pleaser.” —R. Pierce
“It’s the right white for a cocktail party, or a ham and gruyère panini.” —J. Greene
Santa Barbara Crossing
2005 Santa Barbara County
Chardonnay $10
“This is a Thanksgiving white. It could also work with a dish of scallops, with a little cinnamon and butternut squash.” —A. Weil
“It’s Central Coast chardonnay all the way, with big, full flavors backed up by salty acidity. A lot of wine for ten bucks.” —W. Weber
Iron Horse
2005 Green Valley Chardonnay $27
“I’ve always liked the Iron Horse wines. It’s a very California style of chardonnay, but these have more acidity that most, which keeps them interesting. It would go with salmon, lobster, crab, and lighter meats.” —A. Weil
“Creamy and rich, with that vibrant acidity. I’d love to see this paired with seared day-boat scallops with an edamame purée and truffled kabayaki sauce...” —N. Daquip
L’Ecole No. 41
2006 Columbia Valley Semillon $16
“From the nose to the mouth to the acidity, this wine’s fruit is well balanced, not overpowering. It’s a great summer patio wine.”
— B. Gillespie
“This would be a good roast turkey wine; it’s appealing.” —E. Kelley
“I’d serve it with smoked fish—salmon, trout.” —J. Marvin
R. López di Heredia
1996 Rioja Viña Gravonia Crianza $27
“I would thank this operation one million times if I could. This is the reward for patience. Almond…marzipan… Amazing wine. It’s the best value here without question.” —R. Pierce
“An Old School white, the kind of wine only López de Heredia and few others produce. Waxy, mineral and fresh…a white for fried sardines.” —P. Tapia
“Or Marcona almonds. You don’t want to get too complicated. I could see a nice bowl of polenta with some Manchego cheese.”
—R. Clement
Sherry
Lustau
Jerez Puerto Fino Solera Reserva $14
“I jumpstart my appetite with fino. It makes me want to eat. This is a wine that gets people hungry.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“I really like the briny, clean flavors. It’s so crisp. I’d have it with oysters or some charcuterie.” —Steve Goldun
Hidalgo
Jerez Amontillado Napoleón $19
“This has the complexity of an aged amontillado while retaining the dry, austere finesse and liveliness of a fino.” —P. Liem
“Upfront, it’s really briny, and it has an almondy sort of flavor. It’s really a time and place wine. The real beauty of certain wines is in their context. You’re starting the evening, the sun’s going down in the summer…Sherry in this context is one of the most beautiful things in the world.” —A. Weil
“I’d want this with a dry salty cheese and almonds, or on the back porch, with some nuts.” —E. Railsback
Rosé
Muga
2006 Rioja Rosé $11
“It’s a lot of wine for the money! Very crisp and easy to drink. It’s got really nice acidity, a rose petal color, and lots of strawberry flavor.” —T. Snyder
“This offers more flavor most Rioja rosados while avoiding the watermelon candy syndrome. Instead, it tastes of garnacha’s cherry flavors and tempranillo’s spice, as vibrant as its pink hue.” —T.Q. Thomas
Commanderie de la Bargemone
2007 Coteaux d’Aix en
Provence Rosé $15
“This was my summer outdoor drinking wine last year. I split a case with a friend and kept it around for picnics in Central Park, beach trips to Long Island, pool parties. It’s full of bright strawberry flavors, refreshingly crisp.” —N. Drummer
“I can tell just from seeing the bottle that this needs grilled lamb. People think that rosé is just for summer, but I think it’s great with food all year round.” —J. Marvin
“There’s so much food that can go with this. It’s salty. It’s fatty. Rosé is the most versatile wine out there.” —J. Kosseff
2006 Oregon Signature Collection Pinot Gris $16
“It has a lot more tropical character than most pinot gris. It’s got flavors that you might associate with sauvignon blanc, like passionfruit. With this wine, you could get into dishes that have a little more weight—richer fish, like langoustine and mussels, or chicken with a cream sauce.” —A. Weil
Hanna
2007 Russian River Valley
Sauvignon Blanc $17
“This is textbook California sauvignon blanc.” —J. Kosseff
“Classic, exact typicity. For food, this seems like salad territory; it’s an acid thing.”
—J. Marvin
“I’d serve it with roast chicken, a little bit salty with crispy skin.” —J. Kosseff
Mulderbosch
2007 Stellenbosch Sauvignon Blanc $21
“This is more toned than in years past, really lean and focused. We do this grilled asparagus-and-burrata dish that would be good here.” —J. Heber
“I’ve always liked South African wine, especially the white wines. This is impressive sauvignon blanc.” —J. Marvin
Kim Crawford
2007 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc $17
“You know, you’ve got your citrusy New Zealand sauvignon blanc and your green pepper New Zealand sauvignon blanc—this is the green pepper version right here, all about the herbs, not so much about the gooseberry. I’d serve it with salads and other dishes with uncooked vegetables. I think vegans would love this wine.” —R. Clement
“This would be good with Vietnamese food—not the real spicy stuff, but a stew with fresh herbs.” —E. Porto Carreiro
Shaw + Smith
2007 Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc $23
“Now here’s your citrus…really nice citrus fruit, a hint of orange zest, and grapefruit, along with a touch of some green, like fennel.” —R. Pierce
“This would be great with the large Aussie crayfish they call marron, or with lobster, or salt prawns spritzed with lemon.”
—Patrick J. Comiskey
Casa Marin
2007 San Antonio Valley
Laurel Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc $25
“This is one of the best sauvignons from Chile and a terrific example of Lo Abarca, Chile’s far coast—a great terroir for sauvignon. The wine has a generous texture, in total balance with the mineral acidity.” —P. Tapia
Riesling
J.L. Wolf
2006 Pfalz Wachenheimer Riesling $16
“This is a village-level wine, and yet its sense of place is so profound—that spicy, stony minerality. Unbelievable class and refinement for a wine of this price.” —P. Liem
“It’s lean and citrusy, with sweetness that would really complement spicy dishes. With a chile, pepper, scallion and lemongrass sauce, I think this would be absolutely perfect. It would also be really good with pork, or shellfish with chile.” —A. Weil
Hexamer
2006 Nahe Quarzit Riesling QbA $22
“This is a special selection from a parcel of quartzite soil in the Meddersheimer Rheingrafenberg. It’s always picked at Spätlese level or higher, yet retains a vivid, nearly electric energy and tension thanks to mouthwatering acidity.” —P. Liem
“Riesling is the gateway drug, it’s delicious yet serious. I like this kind of wine with duck breast—the acidity and the richness pairs well with the meat.” —J. Marvin
“When I need a wine at ten A.M. on my deck, this is it.” —J. Heber
Fox Run
2006 Seneca Lake Reserve Riesling $30
“The Finger Lakes has some of the most profound riesling in North America. They’ve got it all there: an ideal climate, steep slopes and slate soils.” —W. Weber
“I would like to see what this is like in ten years; it’s pithy now and I’d like to see that mellow. It’s got great potential to age.” —J. Heber
Frankland Estate
2007 Frankland River
Isolation Ridge Riesling $25
“The palate has a limeade quality, a kind of noble austerity to the texture.”
—E. Porto Carreiro
“I’ve never been to Western Australia, but this is nothing like riesling from Germany, or Alsace…I’d drink it with an applewood smoked pork chop.” —R. Clement
Jacob’s Creek
2006 Barossa Steingarten Riesling $28
“There’s lots of power here, almost a viscous texture, starting to lean toward a little bit of that petrol character. Between these two Australian Rieslings, the Jacob’s Creek definitely is the more versatile, just based on where the wine sits on the palate, its heft and its viscosity.” —R. Clement
Rich White
Château de Chamboureau
2004 Savennières Sec $24
“It has a smoky nuttiness, and a round mouth feel. It doesn’t have too much oak. On the nose, it reminds me of some sort of smelly cheese. It’s got a lot of interesting things that you don’t get in a lot of white wines. Chicken thighs stuffed with goat cheese would be good with this.”—E. Railsback
“It could stand up to marinated olives, or a little cheese plate.” —A. Weil
Schloss Gobelsburg
2006 Kamptal Steinsetz
Grüner Veltliner $24
“Just lovely. Spicy, crisp, great fleshy texture.”—J. Heber
“Steinsetz creates full-bodied, complex veltliner, marked by the minerality of the gravel and loess soils. In Burgundy, a wine of this quality would literally be four or five times the price.” —P. Liem
Del Rio
2006 Rogue Valley Viognier $20
“Del Rio is a giant vineyard that basically made the Rogue Valley appellation.”—J. Kosseff
“This is a great rich white wine that’s not a chardonnay. It’s made for cheese and charcuterie.” — J. Marvin
Zaca Mesa
2006 Santa Ynez Valley Roussanne $25
“Zaca Mesa makes cool wines across the board—it’s a great property. The roussanne and other white Rhône varieties are planted on north-facing slopes, so they get a little less ripe.” —E. Kelley
“Zaca Mesa’s Roussanne is how I got my mother to try something besides California chardonnay.” —W. Weber
“I think white Rhône varietals and pork, savory pork, go really well together.”
—J. Kosseff
Domaine Olivier Pithon
2006 Cotes du Roussillon Cuvée Laïs $28
“This is a regal, rich white, like an Hermitage Blanc if Hermitage were bathed in Roussillon’s warm light. But it’s a fraction of the cost of a great Hermitage Blanc. (It’s also the best wine I’ve ever tasted that’s named after a Jersey cow.)” —T.Q. Thomas
“A wine for the people who don’t like white wine.” —R. Pierce
“The oak seems almost like a bridge to the wines of Burgundy.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“There’s a little honey to the flavor. It’s so pure. I’d pair it with skate wing fried in butter.” —R. Clement
Hogue
2006 Columbia Valley Chardonnay $9
“For people looking for chardonnay it’s got everything; this is the sort of wine that would work in every state in the country. That fleshy mouthfeel, that bit of tropical fruit. It’s a crowd-pleaser.” —R. Pierce
“It’s the right white for a cocktail party, or a ham and gruyère panini.” —J. Greene
Santa Barbara Crossing
2005 Santa Barbara County
Chardonnay $10
“This is a Thanksgiving white. It could also work with a dish of scallops, with a little cinnamon and butternut squash.” —A. Weil
“It’s Central Coast chardonnay all the way, with big, full flavors backed up by salty acidity. A lot of wine for ten bucks.” —W. Weber
Iron Horse
2005 Green Valley Chardonnay $27
“I’ve always liked the Iron Horse wines. It’s a very California style of chardonnay, but these have more acidity that most, which keeps them interesting. It would go with salmon, lobster, crab, and lighter meats.” —A. Weil
“Creamy and rich, with that vibrant acidity. I’d love to see this paired with seared day-boat scallops with an edamame purée and truffled kabayaki sauce...” —N. Daquip
L’Ecole No. 41
2006 Columbia Valley Semillon $16
“From the nose to the mouth to the acidity, this wine’s fruit is well balanced, not overpowering. It’s a great summer patio wine.”
— B. Gillespie
“This would be a good roast turkey wine; it’s appealing.” —E. Kelley
“I’d serve it with smoked fish—salmon, trout.” —J. Marvin
R. López di Heredia
1996 Rioja Viña Gravonia Crianza $27
“I would thank this operation one million times if I could. This is the reward for patience. Almond…marzipan… Amazing wine. It’s the best value here without question.” —R. Pierce
“An Old School white, the kind of wine only López de Heredia and few others produce. Waxy, mineral and fresh…a white for fried sardines.” —P. Tapia
“Or Marcona almonds. You don’t want to get too complicated. I could see a nice bowl of polenta with some Manchego cheese.”
—R. Clement
Sherry
Lustau
Jerez Puerto Fino Solera Reserva $14
“I jumpstart my appetite with fino. It makes me want to eat. This is a wine that gets people hungry.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“I really like the briny, clean flavors. It’s so crisp. I’d have it with oysters or some charcuterie.” —Steve Goldun
Hidalgo
Jerez Amontillado Napoleón $19
“This has the complexity of an aged amontillado while retaining the dry, austere finesse and liveliness of a fino.” —P. Liem
“Upfront, it’s really briny, and it has an almondy sort of flavor. It’s really a time and place wine. The real beauty of certain wines is in their context. You’re starting the evening, the sun’s going down in the summer…Sherry in this context is one of the most beautiful things in the world.” —A. Weil
“I’d want this with a dry salty cheese and almonds, or on the back porch, with some nuts.” —E. Railsback
Rosé
Muga
2006 Rioja Rosé $11
“It’s a lot of wine for the money! Very crisp and easy to drink. It’s got really nice acidity, a rose petal color, and lots of strawberry flavor.” —T. Snyder
“This offers more flavor most Rioja rosados while avoiding the watermelon candy syndrome. Instead, it tastes of garnacha’s cherry flavors and tempranillo’s spice, as vibrant as its pink hue.” —T.Q. Thomas
Commanderie de la Bargemone
2007 Coteaux d’Aix en
Provence Rosé $15
“This was my summer outdoor drinking wine last year. I split a case with a friend and kept it around for picnics in Central Park, beach trips to Long Island, pool parties. It’s full of bright strawberry flavors, refreshingly crisp.” —N. Drummer
“I can tell just from seeing the bottle that this needs grilled lamb. People think that rosé is just for summer, but I think it’s great with food all year round.” —J. Marvin
“There’s so much food that can go with this. It’s salty. It’s fatty. Rosé is the most versatile wine out there.” —J. Kosseff
2007 Stellenbosch Sauvignon Blanc $21
“This is more toned than in years past, really lean and focused. We do this grilled asparagus-and-burrata dish that would be good here.” —J. Heber
“I’ve always liked South African wine, especially the white wines. This is impressive sauvignon blanc.” —J. Marvin
Kim Crawford
2007 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc $17
“You know, you’ve got your citrusy New Zealand sauvignon blanc and your green pepper New Zealand sauvignon blanc—this is the green pepper version right here, all about the herbs, not so much about the gooseberry. I’d serve it with salads and other dishes with uncooked vegetables. I think vegans would love this wine.” —R. Clement
“This would be good with Vietnamese food—not the real spicy stuff, but a stew with fresh herbs.” —E. Porto Carreiro
Shaw + Smith
2007 Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc $23
“Now here’s your citrus…really nice citrus fruit, a hint of orange zest, and grapefruit, along with a touch of some green, like fennel.” —R. Pierce
“This would be great with the large Aussie crayfish they call marron, or with lobster, or salt prawns spritzed with lemon.”
—Patrick J. Comiskey
Casa Marin
2007 San Antonio Valley
Laurel Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc $25
“This is one of the best sauvignons from Chile and a terrific example of Lo Abarca, Chile’s far coast—a great terroir for sauvignon. The wine has a generous texture, in total balance with the mineral acidity.” —P. Tapia
Riesling
J.L. Wolf
2006 Pfalz Wachenheimer Riesling $16
“This is a village-level wine, and yet its sense of place is so profound—that spicy, stony minerality. Unbelievable class and refinement for a wine of this price.” —P. Liem
“It’s lean and citrusy, with sweetness that would really complement spicy dishes. With a chile, pepper, scallion and lemongrass sauce, I think this would be absolutely perfect. It would also be really good with pork, or shellfish with chile.” —A. Weil
Hexamer
2006 Nahe Quarzit Riesling QbA $22
“This is a special selection from a parcel of quartzite soil in the Meddersheimer Rheingrafenberg. It’s always picked at Spätlese level or higher, yet retains a vivid, nearly electric energy and tension thanks to mouthwatering acidity.” —P. Liem
“Riesling is the gateway drug, it’s delicious yet serious. I like this kind of wine with duck breast—the acidity and the richness pairs well with the meat.” —J. Marvin
“When I need a wine at ten A.M. on my deck, this is it.” —J. Heber
Fox Run
2006 Seneca Lake Reserve Riesling $30
“The Finger Lakes has some of the most profound riesling in North America. They’ve got it all there: an ideal climate, steep slopes and slate soils.” —W. Weber
“I would like to see what this is like in ten years; it’s pithy now and I’d like to see that mellow. It’s got great potential to age.” —J. Heber
Frankland Estate
2007 Frankland River
Isolation Ridge Riesling $25
“The palate has a limeade quality, a kind of noble austerity to the texture.”
—E. Porto Carreiro
“I’ve never been to Western Australia, but this is nothing like riesling from Germany, or Alsace…I’d drink it with an applewood smoked pork chop.” —R. Clement
Jacob’s Creek
2006 Barossa Steingarten Riesling $28
“There’s lots of power here, almost a viscous texture, starting to lean toward a little bit of that petrol character. Between these two Australian Rieslings, the Jacob’s Creek definitely is the more versatile, just based on where the wine sits on the palate, its heft and its viscosity.” —R. Clement
Rich White
Château de Chamboureau
2004 Savennières Sec $24
“It has a smoky nuttiness, and a round mouth feel. It doesn’t have too much oak. On the nose, it reminds me of some sort of smelly cheese. It’s got a lot of interesting things that you don’t get in a lot of white wines. Chicken thighs stuffed with goat cheese would be good with this.”—E. Railsback
“It could stand up to marinated olives, or a little cheese plate.” —A. Weil
Schloss Gobelsburg
2006 Kamptal Steinsetz
Grüner Veltliner $24
“Just lovely. Spicy, crisp, great fleshy texture.”—J. Heber
“Steinsetz creates full-bodied, complex veltliner, marked by the minerality of the gravel and loess soils. In Burgundy, a wine of this quality would literally be four or five times the price.” —P. Liem
Del Rio
2006 Rogue Valley Viognier $20
“Del Rio is a giant vineyard that basically made the Rogue Valley appellation.”—J. Kosseff
“This is a great rich white wine that’s not a chardonnay. It’s made for cheese and charcuterie.” — J. Marvin
Zaca Mesa
2006 Santa Ynez Valley Roussanne $25
“Zaca Mesa makes cool wines across the board—it’s a great property. The roussanne and other white Rhône varieties are planted on north-facing slopes, so they get a little less ripe.” —E. Kelley
“Zaca Mesa’s Roussanne is how I got my mother to try something besides California chardonnay.” —W. Weber
“I think white Rhône varietals and pork, savory pork, go really well together.”
—J. Kosseff
Domaine Olivier Pithon
2006 Cotes du Roussillon Cuvée Laïs $28
“This is a regal, rich white, like an Hermitage Blanc if Hermitage were bathed in Roussillon’s warm light. But it’s a fraction of the cost of a great Hermitage Blanc. (It’s also the best wine I’ve ever tasted that’s named after a Jersey cow.)” —T.Q. Thomas
“A wine for the people who don’t like white wine.” —R. Pierce
“The oak seems almost like a bridge to the wines of Burgundy.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“There’s a little honey to the flavor. It’s so pure. I’d pair it with skate wing fried in butter.” —R. Clement
Hogue
2006 Columbia Valley Chardonnay $9
“For people looking for chardonnay it’s got everything; this is the sort of wine that would work in every state in the country. That fleshy mouthfeel, that bit of tropical fruit. It’s a crowd-pleaser.” —R. Pierce
“It’s the right white for a cocktail party, or a ham and gruyère panini.” —J. Greene
Santa Barbara Crossing
2005 Santa Barbara County
Chardonnay $10
“This is a Thanksgiving white. It could also work with a dish of scallops, with a little cinnamon and butternut squash.” —A. Weil
“It’s Central Coast chardonnay all the way, with big, full flavors backed up by salty acidity. A lot of wine for ten bucks.” —W. Weber
Iron Horse
2005 Green Valley Chardonnay $27
“I’ve always liked the Iron Horse wines. It’s a very California style of chardonnay, but these have more acidity that most, which keeps them interesting. It would go with salmon, lobster, crab, and lighter meats.” —A. Weil
“Creamy and rich, with that vibrant acidity. I’d love to see this paired with seared day-boat scallops with an edamame purée and truffled kabayaki sauce...” —N. Daquip
L’Ecole No. 41
2006 Columbia Valley Semillon $16
“From the nose to the mouth to the acidity, this wine’s fruit is well balanced, not overpowering. It’s a great summer patio wine.”
— B. Gillespie
“This would be a good roast turkey wine; it’s appealing.” —E. Kelley
“I’d serve it with smoked fish—salmon, trout.” —J. Marvin
R. López di Heredia
1996 Rioja Viña Gravonia Crianza $27
“I would thank this operation one million times if I could. This is the reward for patience. Almond…marzipan… Amazing wine. It’s the best value here without question.” —R. Pierce
“An Old School white, the kind of wine only López de Heredia and few others produce. Waxy, mineral and fresh…a white for fried sardines.” —P. Tapia
“Or Marcona almonds. You don’t want to get too complicated. I could see a nice bowl of polenta with some Manchego cheese.”
—R. Clement
Sherry
Lustau
Jerez Puerto Fino Solera Reserva $14
“I jumpstart my appetite with fino. It makes me want to eat. This is a wine that gets people hungry.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“I really like the briny, clean flavors. It’s so crisp. I’d have it with oysters or some charcuterie.” —Steve Goldun
Hidalgo
Jerez Amontillado Napoleón $19
“This has the complexity of an aged amontillado while retaining the dry, austere finesse and liveliness of a fino.” —P. Liem
“Upfront, it’s really briny, and it has an almondy sort of flavor. It’s really a time and place wine. The real beauty of certain wines is in their context. You’re starting the evening, the sun’s going down in the summer…Sherry in this context is one of the most beautiful things in the world.” —A. Weil
“I’d want this with a dry salty cheese and almonds, or on the back porch, with some nuts.” —E. Railsback
Rosé
Muga
2006 Rioja Rosé $11
“It’s a lot of wine for the money! Very crisp and easy to drink. It’s got really nice acidity, a rose petal color, and lots of strawberry flavor.” —T. Snyder
“This offers more flavor most Rioja rosados while avoiding the watermelon candy syndrome. Instead, it tastes of garnacha’s cherry flavors and tempranillo’s spice, as vibrant as its pink hue.” —T.Q. Thomas
Commanderie de la Bargemone
2007 Coteaux d’Aix en
Provence Rosé $15
“This was my summer outdoor drinking wine last year. I split a case with a friend and kept it around for picnics in Central Park, beach trips to Long Island, pool parties. It’s full of bright strawberry flavors, refreshingly crisp.” —N. Drummer
“I can tell just from seeing the bottle that this needs grilled lamb. People think that rosé is just for summer, but I think it’s great with food all year round.” —J. Marvin
“There’s so much food that can go with this. It’s salty. It’s fatty. Rosé is the most versatile wine out there.” —J. Kosseff
2007 Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc $23
“Now here’s your citrus…really nice citrus fruit, a hint of orange zest, and grapefruit, along with a touch of some green, like fennel.” —R. Pierce
“This would be great with the large Aussie crayfish they call marron, or with lobster, or salt prawns spritzed with lemon.” —Patrick J. Comiskey
Casa Marin
2007 San Antonio Valley
Laurel Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc $25
“This is one of the best sauvignons from Chile and a terrific example of Lo Abarca, Chile’s far coast—a great terroir for sauvignon. The wine has a generous texture, in total balance with the mineral acidity.” —P. Tapia
Riesling
J.L. Wolf
2006 Pfalz Wachenheimer Riesling $16
“This is a village-level wine, and yet its sense of place is so profound—that spicy, stony minerality. Unbelievable class and refinement for a wine of this price.” —P. Liem
“It’s lean and citrusy, with sweetness that would really complement spicy dishes. With a chile, pepper, scallion and lemongrass sauce, I think this would be absolutely perfect. It would also be really good with pork, or shellfish with chile.” —A. Weil
Hexamer
2006 Nahe Quarzit Riesling QbA $22
“This is a special selection from a parcel of quartzite soil in the Meddersheimer Rheingrafenberg. It’s always picked at Spätlese level or higher, yet retains a vivid, nearly electric energy and tension thanks to mouthwatering acidity.” —P. Liem
“Riesling is the gateway drug, it’s delicious yet serious. I like this kind of wine with duck breast—the acidity and the richness pairs well with the meat.” —J. Marvin
“When I need a wine at ten A.M. on my deck, this is it.” —J. Heber
Fox Run
2006 Seneca Lake Reserve Riesling $30
“The Finger Lakes has some of the most profound riesling in North America. They’ve got it all there: an ideal climate, steep slopes and slate soils.” —W. Weber
“I would like to see what this is like in ten years; it’s pithy now and I’d like to see that mellow. It’s got great potential to age.” —J. Heber
Frankland Estate
2007 Frankland River
Isolation Ridge Riesling $25
“The palate has a limeade quality, a kind of noble austerity to the texture.”
—E. Porto Carreiro
“I’ve never been to Western Australia, but this is nothing like riesling from Germany, or Alsace…I’d drink it with an applewood smoked pork chop.” —R. Clement
Jacob’s Creek
2006 Barossa Steingarten Riesling $28
“There’s lots of power here, almost a viscous texture, starting to lean toward a little bit of that petrol character. Between these two Australian Rieslings, the Jacob’s Creek definitely is the more versatile, just based on where the wine sits on the palate, its heft and its viscosity.” —R. Clement
Rich White
Château de Chamboureau
2004 Savennières Sec $24
“It has a smoky nuttiness, and a round mouth feel. It doesn’t have too much oak. On the nose, it reminds me of some sort of smelly cheese. It’s got a lot of interesting things that you don’t get in a lot of white wines. Chicken thighs stuffed with goat cheese would be good with this.”—E. Railsback
“It could stand up to marinated olives, or a little cheese plate.” —A. Weil
Schloss Gobelsburg
2006 Kamptal Steinsetz
Grüner Veltliner $24
“Just lovely. Spicy, crisp, great fleshy texture.”—J. Heber
“Steinsetz creates full-bodied, complex veltliner, marked by the minerality of the gravel and loess soils. In Burgundy, a wine of this quality would literally be four or five times the price.” —P. Liem
Del Rio
2006 Rogue Valley Viognier $20
“Del Rio is a giant vineyard that basically made the Rogue Valley appellation.”—J. Kosseff
“This is a great rich white wine that’s not a chardonnay. It’s made for cheese and charcuterie.” — J. Marvin
Zaca Mesa
2006 Santa Ynez Valley Roussanne $25
“Zaca Mesa makes cool wines across the board—it’s a great property. The roussanne and other white Rhône varieties are planted on north-facing slopes, so they get a little less ripe.” —E. Kelley
“Zaca Mesa’s Roussanne is how I got my mother to try something besides California chardonnay.” —W. Weber
“I think white Rhône varietals and pork, savory pork, go really well together.”
—J. Kosseff
Domaine Olivier Pithon
2006 Cotes du Roussillon Cuvée Laïs $28
“This is a regal, rich white, like an Hermitage Blanc if Hermitage were bathed in Roussillon’s warm light. But it’s a fraction of the cost of a great Hermitage Blanc. (It’s also the best wine I’ve ever tasted that’s named after a Jersey cow.)” —T.Q. Thomas
“A wine for the people who don’t like white wine.” —R. Pierce
“The oak seems almost like a bridge to the wines of Burgundy.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“There’s a little honey to the flavor. It’s so pure. I’d pair it with skate wing fried in butter.” —R. Clement
Hogue
2006 Columbia Valley Chardonnay $9
“For people looking for chardonnay it’s got everything; this is the sort of wine that would work in every state in the country. That fleshy mouthfeel, that bit of tropical fruit. It’s a crowd-pleaser.” —R. Pierce
“It’s the right white for a cocktail party, or a ham and gruyère panini.” —J. Greene
Santa Barbara Crossing
2005 Santa Barbara County
Chardonnay $10
“This is a Thanksgiving white. It could also work with a dish of scallops, with a little cinnamon and butternut squash.” —A. Weil
“It’s Central Coast chardonnay all the way, with big, full flavors backed up by salty acidity. A lot of wine for ten bucks.” —W. Weber
Iron Horse
2005 Green Valley Chardonnay $27
“I’ve always liked the Iron Horse wines. It’s a very California style of chardonnay, but these have more acidity that most, which keeps them interesting. It would go with salmon, lobster, crab, and lighter meats.” —A. Weil
“Creamy and rich, with that vibrant acidity. I’d love to see this paired with seared day-boat scallops with an edamame purée and truffled kabayaki sauce...” —N. Daquip
L’Ecole No. 41
2006 Columbia Valley Semillon $16
“From the nose to the mouth to the acidity, this wine’s fruit is well balanced, not overpowering. It’s a great summer patio wine.”
— B. Gillespie
“This would be a good roast turkey wine; it’s appealing.” —E. Kelley
“I’d serve it with smoked fish—salmon, trout.” —J. Marvin
R. López di Heredia
1996 Rioja Viña Gravonia Crianza $27
“I would thank this operation one million times if I could. This is the reward for patience. Almond…marzipan… Amazing wine. It’s the best value here without question.” —R. Pierce
“An Old School white, the kind of wine only López de Heredia and few others produce. Waxy, mineral and fresh…a white for fried sardines.” —P. Tapia
“Or Marcona almonds. You don’t want to get too complicated. I could see a nice bowl of polenta with some Manchego cheese.”
—R. Clement
Sherry
Lustau
Jerez Puerto Fino Solera Reserva $14
“I jumpstart my appetite with fino. It makes me want to eat. This is a wine that gets people hungry.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“I really like the briny, clean flavors. It’s so crisp. I’d have it with oysters or some charcuterie.” —Steve Goldun
Hidalgo
Jerez Amontillado Napoleón $19
“This has the complexity of an aged amontillado while retaining the dry, austere finesse and liveliness of a fino.” —P. Liem
“Upfront, it’s really briny, and it has an almondy sort of flavor. It’s really a time and place wine. The real beauty of certain wines is in their context. You’re starting the evening, the sun’s going down in the summer…Sherry in this context is one of the most beautiful things in the world.” —A. Weil
“I’d want this with a dry salty cheese and almonds, or on the back porch, with some nuts.” —E. Railsback
Rosé
Muga
2006 Rioja Rosé $11
“It’s a lot of wine for the money! Very crisp and easy to drink. It’s got really nice acidity, a rose petal color, and lots of strawberry flavor.” —T. Snyder
“This offers more flavor most Rioja rosados while avoiding the watermelon candy syndrome. Instead, it tastes of garnacha’s cherry flavors and tempranillo’s spice, as vibrant as its pink hue.” —T.Q. Thomas
Commanderie de la Bargemone
2007 Coteaux d’Aix en
Provence Rosé $15
“This was my summer outdoor drinking wine last year. I split a case with a friend and kept it around for picnics in Central Park, beach trips to Long Island, pool parties. It’s full of bright strawberry flavors, refreshingly crisp.” —N. Drummer
“I can tell just from seeing the bottle that this needs grilled lamb. People think that rosé is just for summer, but I think it’s great with food all year round.” —J. Marvin
“There’s so much food that can go with this. It’s salty. It’s fatty. Rosé is the most versatile wine out there.” —J. Kosseff
2006 Pfalz Wachenheimer Riesling $16
“This is a village-level wine, and yet its sense of place is so profound—that spicy, stony minerality. Unbelievable class and refinement for a wine of this price.” —P. Liem
“It’s lean and citrusy, with sweetness that would really complement spicy dishes. With a chile, pepper, scallion and lemongrass sauce, I think this would be absolutely perfect. It would also be really good with pork, or shellfish with chile.” —A. Weil
Hexamer
2006 Nahe Quarzit Riesling QbA $22
“This is a special selection from a parcel of quartzite soil in the Meddersheimer Rheingrafenberg. It’s always picked at Spätlese level or higher, yet retains a vivid, nearly electric energy and tension thanks to mouthwatering acidity.” —P. Liem
“Riesling is the gateway drug, it’s delicious yet serious. I like this kind of wine with duck breast—the acidity and the richness pairs well with the meat.” —J. Marvin
“When I need a wine at ten A.M. on my deck, this is it.” —J. Heber
Fox Run
2006 Seneca Lake Reserve Riesling $30
“The Finger Lakes has some of the most profound riesling in North America. They’ve got it all there: an ideal climate, steep slopes and slate soils.” —W. Weber
“I would like to see what this is like in ten years; it’s pithy now and I’d like to see that mellow. It’s got great potential to age.” —J. Heber
Frankland Estate
2007 Frankland River
Isolation Ridge Riesling $25
“The palate has a limeade quality, a kind of noble austerity to the texture.”
—E. Porto Carreiro
“I’ve never been to Western Australia, but this is nothing like riesling from Germany, or Alsace…I’d drink it with an applewood smoked pork chop.” —R. Clement
Jacob’s Creek
2006 Barossa Steingarten Riesling $28
“There’s lots of power here, almost a viscous texture, starting to lean toward a little bit of that petrol character. Between these two Australian Rieslings, the Jacob’s Creek definitely is the more versatile, just based on where the wine sits on the palate, its heft and its viscosity.” —R. Clement
Rich White
Château de Chamboureau
2004 Savennières Sec $24
“It has a smoky nuttiness, and a round mouth feel. It doesn’t have too much oak. On the nose, it reminds me of some sort of smelly cheese. It’s got a lot of interesting things that you don’t get in a lot of white wines. Chicken thighs stuffed with goat cheese would be good with this.”—E. Railsback
“It could stand up to marinated olives, or a little cheese plate.” —A. Weil
Schloss Gobelsburg
2006 Kamptal Steinsetz
Grüner Veltliner $24
“Just lovely. Spicy, crisp, great fleshy texture.”—J. Heber
“Steinsetz creates full-bodied, complex veltliner, marked by the minerality of the gravel and loess soils. In Burgundy, a wine of this quality would literally be four or five times the price.” —P. Liem
Del Rio
2006 Rogue Valley Viognier $20
“Del Rio is a giant vineyard that basically made the Rogue Valley appellation.”—J. Kosseff
“This is a great rich white wine that’s not a chardonnay. It’s made for cheese and charcuterie.” — J. Marvin
Zaca Mesa
2006 Santa Ynez Valley Roussanne $25
“Zaca Mesa makes cool wines across the board—it’s a great property. The roussanne and other white Rhône varieties are planted on north-facing slopes, so they get a little less ripe.” —E. Kelley
“Zaca Mesa’s Roussanne is how I got my mother to try something besides California chardonnay.” —W. Weber
“I think white Rhône varietals and pork, savory pork, go really well together.”
—J. Kosseff
Domaine Olivier Pithon
2006 Cotes du Roussillon Cuvée Laïs $28
“This is a regal, rich white, like an Hermitage Blanc if Hermitage were bathed in Roussillon’s warm light. But it’s a fraction of the cost of a great Hermitage Blanc. (It’s also the best wine I’ve ever tasted that’s named after a Jersey cow.)” —T.Q. Thomas
“A wine for the people who don’t like white wine.” —R. Pierce
“The oak seems almost like a bridge to the wines of Burgundy.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“There’s a little honey to the flavor. It’s so pure. I’d pair it with skate wing fried in butter.” —R. Clement
Hogue
2006 Columbia Valley Chardonnay $9
“For people looking for chardonnay it’s got everything; this is the sort of wine that would work in every state in the country. That fleshy mouthfeel, that bit of tropical fruit. It’s a crowd-pleaser.” —R. Pierce
“It’s the right white for a cocktail party, or a ham and gruyère panini.” —J. Greene
Santa Barbara Crossing
2005 Santa Barbara County
Chardonnay $10
“This is a Thanksgiving white. It could also work with a dish of scallops, with a little cinnamon and butternut squash.” —A. Weil
“It’s Central Coast chardonnay all the way, with big, full flavors backed up by salty acidity. A lot of wine for ten bucks.” —W. Weber
Iron Horse
2005 Green Valley Chardonnay $27
“I’ve always liked the Iron Horse wines. It’s a very California style of chardonnay, but these have more acidity that most, which keeps them interesting. It would go with salmon, lobster, crab, and lighter meats.” —A. Weil
“Creamy and rich, with that vibrant acidity. I’d love to see this paired with seared day-boat scallops with an edamame purée and truffled kabayaki sauce...” —N. Daquip
L’Ecole No. 41
2006 Columbia Valley Semillon $16
“From the nose to the mouth to the acidity, this wine’s fruit is well balanced, not overpowering. It’s a great summer patio wine.”
— B. Gillespie
“This would be a good roast turkey wine; it’s appealing.” —E. Kelley
“I’d serve it with smoked fish—salmon, trout.” —J. Marvin
R. López di Heredia
1996 Rioja Viña Gravonia Crianza $27
“I would thank this operation one million times if I could. This is the reward for patience. Almond…marzipan… Amazing wine. It’s the best value here without question.” —R. Pierce
“An Old School white, the kind of wine only López de Heredia and few others produce. Waxy, mineral and fresh…a white for fried sardines.” —P. Tapia
“Or Marcona almonds. You don’t want to get too complicated. I could see a nice bowl of polenta with some Manchego cheese.”
—R. Clement
Sherry
Lustau
Jerez Puerto Fino Solera Reserva $14
“I jumpstart my appetite with fino. It makes me want to eat. This is a wine that gets people hungry.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“I really like the briny, clean flavors. It’s so crisp. I’d have it with oysters or some charcuterie.” —Steve Goldun
Hidalgo
Jerez Amontillado Napoleón $19
“This has the complexity of an aged amontillado while retaining the dry, austere finesse and liveliness of a fino.” —P. Liem
“Upfront, it’s really briny, and it has an almondy sort of flavor. It’s really a time and place wine. The real beauty of certain wines is in their context. You’re starting the evening, the sun’s going down in the summer…Sherry in this context is one of the most beautiful things in the world.” —A. Weil
“I’d want this with a dry salty cheese and almonds, or on the back porch, with some nuts.” —E. Railsback
Rosé
Muga
2006 Rioja Rosé $11
“It’s a lot of wine for the money! Very crisp and easy to drink. It’s got really nice acidity, a rose petal color, and lots of strawberry flavor.” —T. Snyder
“This offers more flavor most Rioja rosados while avoiding the watermelon candy syndrome. Instead, it tastes of garnacha’s cherry flavors and tempranillo’s spice, as vibrant as its pink hue.” —T.Q. Thomas
Commanderie de la Bargemone
2007 Coteaux d’Aix en
Provence Rosé $15
“This was my summer outdoor drinking wine last year. I split a case with a friend and kept it around for picnics in Central Park, beach trips to Long Island, pool parties. It’s full of bright strawberry flavors, refreshingly crisp.” —N. Drummer
“I can tell just from seeing the bottle that this needs grilled lamb. People think that rosé is just for summer, but I think it’s great with food all year round.” —J. Marvin
“There’s so much food that can go with this. It’s salty. It’s fatty. Rosé is the most versatile wine out there.” —J. Kosseff
2006 Seneca Lake Reserve Riesling $30
“The Finger Lakes has some of the most profound riesling in North America. They’ve got it all there: an ideal climate, steep slopes and slate soils.” —W. Weber
“I would like to see what this is like in ten years; it’s pithy now and I’d like to see that mellow. It’s got great potential to age.” —J. Heber
Frankland Estate
2007 Frankland River
Isolation Ridge Riesling $25
“The palate has a limeade quality, a kind of noble austerity to the texture.”
—E. Porto Carreiro
“I’ve never been to Western Australia, but this is nothing like riesling from Germany, or Alsace…I’d drink it with an applewood smoked pork chop.” —R. Clement
Jacob’s Creek
2006 Barossa Steingarten Riesling $28
“There’s lots of power here, almost a viscous texture, starting to lean toward a little bit of that petrol character. Between these two Australian Rieslings, the Jacob’s Creek definitely is the more versatile, just based on where the wine sits on the palate, its heft and its viscosity.” —R. Clement
Rich White
Château de Chamboureau
2004 Savennières Sec $24
“It has a smoky nuttiness, and a round mouth feel. It doesn’t have too much oak. On the nose, it reminds me of some sort of smelly cheese. It’s got a lot of interesting things that you don’t get in a lot of white wines. Chicken thighs stuffed with goat cheese would be good with this.”—E. Railsback
“It could stand up to marinated olives, or a little cheese plate.” —A. Weil
Schloss Gobelsburg
2006 Kamptal Steinsetz
Grüner Veltliner $24
“Just lovely. Spicy, crisp, great fleshy texture.”—J. Heber
“Steinsetz creates full-bodied, complex veltliner, marked by the minerality of the gravel and loess soils. In Burgundy, a wine of this quality would literally be four or five times the price.” —P. Liem
Del Rio
2006 Rogue Valley Viognier $20
“Del Rio is a giant vineyard that basically made the Rogue Valley appellation.”—J. Kosseff
“This is a great rich white wine that’s not a chardonnay. It’s made for cheese and charcuterie.” — J. Marvin
Zaca Mesa
2006 Santa Ynez Valley Roussanne $25
“Zaca Mesa makes cool wines across the board—it’s a great property. The roussanne and other white Rhône varieties are planted on north-facing slopes, so they get a little less ripe.” —E. Kelley
“Zaca Mesa’s Roussanne is how I got my mother to try something besides California chardonnay.” —W. Weber
“I think white Rhône varietals and pork, savory pork, go really well together.”
—J. Kosseff
Domaine Olivier Pithon
2006 Cotes du Roussillon Cuvée Laïs $28
“This is a regal, rich white, like an Hermitage Blanc if Hermitage were bathed in Roussillon’s warm light. But it’s a fraction of the cost of a great Hermitage Blanc. (It’s also the best wine I’ve ever tasted that’s named after a Jersey cow.)” —T.Q. Thomas
“A wine for the people who don’t like white wine.” —R. Pierce
“The oak seems almost like a bridge to the wines of Burgundy.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“There’s a little honey to the flavor. It’s so pure. I’d pair it with skate wing fried in butter.” —R. Clement
Hogue
2006 Columbia Valley Chardonnay $9
“For people looking for chardonnay it’s got everything; this is the sort of wine that would work in every state in the country. That fleshy mouthfeel, that bit of tropical fruit. It’s a crowd-pleaser.” —R. Pierce
“It’s the right white for a cocktail party, or a ham and gruyère panini.” —J. Greene
Santa Barbara Crossing
2005 Santa Barbara County
Chardonnay $10
“This is a Thanksgiving white. It could also work with a dish of scallops, with a little cinnamon and butternut squash.” —A. Weil
“It’s Central Coast chardonnay all the way, with big, full flavors backed up by salty acidity. A lot of wine for ten bucks.” —W. Weber
Iron Horse
2005 Green Valley Chardonnay $27
“I’ve always liked the Iron Horse wines. It’s a very California style of chardonnay, but these have more acidity that most, which keeps them interesting. It would go with salmon, lobster, crab, and lighter meats.” —A. Weil
“Creamy and rich, with that vibrant acidity. I’d love to see this paired with seared day-boat scallops with an edamame purée and truffled kabayaki sauce...” —N. Daquip
L’Ecole No. 41
2006 Columbia Valley Semillon $16
“From the nose to the mouth to the acidity, this wine’s fruit is well balanced, not overpowering. It’s a great summer patio wine.”
— B. Gillespie
“This would be a good roast turkey wine; it’s appealing.” —E. Kelley
“I’d serve it with smoked fish—salmon, trout.” —J. Marvin
R. López di Heredia
1996 Rioja Viña Gravonia Crianza $27
“I would thank this operation one million times if I could. This is the reward for patience. Almond…marzipan… Amazing wine. It’s the best value here without question.” —R. Pierce
“An Old School white, the kind of wine only López de Heredia and few others produce. Waxy, mineral and fresh…a white for fried sardines.” —P. Tapia
“Or Marcona almonds. You don’t want to get too complicated. I could see a nice bowl of polenta with some Manchego cheese.”
—R. Clement
Sherry
Lustau
Jerez Puerto Fino Solera Reserva $14
“I jumpstart my appetite with fino. It makes me want to eat. This is a wine that gets people hungry.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“I really like the briny, clean flavors. It’s so crisp. I’d have it with oysters or some charcuterie.” —Steve Goldun
Hidalgo
Jerez Amontillado Napoleón $19
“This has the complexity of an aged amontillado while retaining the dry, austere finesse and liveliness of a fino.” —P. Liem
“Upfront, it’s really briny, and it has an almondy sort of flavor. It’s really a time and place wine. The real beauty of certain wines is in their context. You’re starting the evening, the sun’s going down in the summer…Sherry in this context is one of the most beautiful things in the world.” —A. Weil
“I’d want this with a dry salty cheese and almonds, or on the back porch, with some nuts.” —E. Railsback
Rosé
Muga
2006 Rioja Rosé $11
“It’s a lot of wine for the money! Very crisp and easy to drink. It’s got really nice acidity, a rose petal color, and lots of strawberry flavor.” —T. Snyder
“This offers more flavor most Rioja rosados while avoiding the watermelon candy syndrome. Instead, it tastes of garnacha’s cherry flavors and tempranillo’s spice, as vibrant as its pink hue.” —T.Q. Thomas
Commanderie de la Bargemone
2007 Coteaux d’Aix en
Provence Rosé $15
“This was my summer outdoor drinking wine last year. I split a case with a friend and kept it around for picnics in Central Park, beach trips to Long Island, pool parties. It’s full of bright strawberry flavors, refreshingly crisp.” —N. Drummer
“I can tell just from seeing the bottle that this needs grilled lamb. People think that rosé is just for summer, but I think it’s great with food all year round.” —J. Marvin
“There’s so much food that can go with this. It’s salty. It’s fatty. Rosé is the most versatile wine out there.” —J. Kosseff
2006 Barossa Steingarten Riesling $28
“There’s lots of power here, almost a viscous texture, starting to lean toward a little bit of that petrol character. Between these two Australian Rieslings, the Jacob’s Creek definitely is the more versatile, just based on where the wine sits on the palate, its heft and its viscosity.” —R. Clement
Rich White
Château de Chamboureau
2004 Savennières Sec $24
“It has a smoky nuttiness, and a round mouth feel. It doesn’t have too much oak. On the nose, it reminds me of some sort of smelly cheese. It’s got a lot of interesting things that you don’t get in a lot of white wines. Chicken thighs stuffed with goat cheese would be good with this.”—E. Railsback
“It could stand up to marinated olives, or a little cheese plate.” —A. Weil
Schloss Gobelsburg
2006 Kamptal Steinsetz
Grüner Veltliner $24
“Just lovely. Spicy, crisp, great fleshy texture.”—J. Heber
“Steinsetz creates full-bodied, complex veltliner, marked by the minerality of the gravel and loess soils. In Burgundy, a wine of this quality would literally be four or five times the price.” —P. Liem
Del Rio
2006 Rogue Valley Viognier $20
“Del Rio is a giant vineyard that basically made the Rogue Valley appellation.”—J. Kosseff
“This is a great rich white wine that’s not a chardonnay. It’s made for cheese and charcuterie.” — J. Marvin
Zaca Mesa
2006 Santa Ynez Valley Roussanne $25
“Zaca Mesa makes cool wines across the board—it’s a great property. The roussanne and other white Rhône varieties are planted on north-facing slopes, so they get a little less ripe.” —E. Kelley
“Zaca Mesa’s Roussanne is how I got my mother to try something besides California chardonnay.” —W. Weber
“I think white Rhône varietals and pork, savory pork, go really well together.”
—J. Kosseff
Domaine Olivier Pithon
2006 Cotes du Roussillon Cuvée Laïs $28
“This is a regal, rich white, like an Hermitage Blanc if Hermitage were bathed in Roussillon’s warm light. But it’s a fraction of the cost of a great Hermitage Blanc. (It’s also the best wine I’ve ever tasted that’s named after a Jersey cow.)” —T.Q. Thomas
“A wine for the people who don’t like white wine.” —R. Pierce
“The oak seems almost like a bridge to the wines of Burgundy.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“There’s a little honey to the flavor. It’s so pure. I’d pair it with skate wing fried in butter.” —R. Clement
Hogue
2006 Columbia Valley Chardonnay $9
“For people looking for chardonnay it’s got everything; this is the sort of wine that would work in every state in the country. That fleshy mouthfeel, that bit of tropical fruit. It’s a crowd-pleaser.” —R. Pierce
“It’s the right white for a cocktail party, or a ham and gruyère panini.” —J. Greene
Santa Barbara Crossing
2005 Santa Barbara County
Chardonnay $10
“This is a Thanksgiving white. It could also work with a dish of scallops, with a little cinnamon and butternut squash.” —A. Weil
“It’s Central Coast chardonnay all the way, with big, full flavors backed up by salty acidity. A lot of wine for ten bucks.” —W. Weber
Iron Horse
2005 Green Valley Chardonnay $27
“I’ve always liked the Iron Horse wines. It’s a very California style of chardonnay, but these have more acidity that most, which keeps them interesting. It would go with salmon, lobster, crab, and lighter meats.” —A. Weil
“Creamy and rich, with that vibrant acidity. I’d love to see this paired with seared day-boat scallops with an edamame purée and truffled kabayaki sauce...” —N. Daquip
L’Ecole No. 41
2006 Columbia Valley Semillon $16
“From the nose to the mouth to the acidity, this wine’s fruit is well balanced, not overpowering. It’s a great summer patio wine.”
— B. Gillespie
“This would be a good roast turkey wine; it’s appealing.” —E. Kelley
“I’d serve it with smoked fish—salmon, trout.” —J. Marvin
R. López di Heredia
1996 Rioja Viña Gravonia Crianza $27
“I would thank this operation one million times if I could. This is the reward for patience. Almond…marzipan… Amazing wine. It’s the best value here without question.” —R. Pierce
“An Old School white, the kind of wine only López de Heredia and few others produce. Waxy, mineral and fresh…a white for fried sardines.” —P. Tapia
“Or Marcona almonds. You don’t want to get too complicated. I could see a nice bowl of polenta with some Manchego cheese.”
—R. Clement
Sherry
Lustau
Jerez Puerto Fino Solera Reserva $14
“I jumpstart my appetite with fino. It makes me want to eat. This is a wine that gets people hungry.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“I really like the briny, clean flavors. It’s so crisp. I’d have it with oysters or some charcuterie.” —Steve Goldun
Hidalgo
Jerez Amontillado Napoleón $19
“This has the complexity of an aged amontillado while retaining the dry, austere finesse and liveliness of a fino.” —P. Liem
“Upfront, it’s really briny, and it has an almondy sort of flavor. It’s really a time and place wine. The real beauty of certain wines is in their context. You’re starting the evening, the sun’s going down in the summer…Sherry in this context is one of the most beautiful things in the world.” —A. Weil
“I’d want this with a dry salty cheese and almonds, or on the back porch, with some nuts.” —E. Railsback
Rosé
Muga
2006 Rioja Rosé $11
“It’s a lot of wine for the money! Very crisp and easy to drink. It’s got really nice acidity, a rose petal color, and lots of strawberry flavor.” —T. Snyder
“This offers more flavor most Rioja rosados while avoiding the watermelon candy syndrome. Instead, it tastes of garnacha’s cherry flavors and tempranillo’s spice, as vibrant as its pink hue.” —T.Q. Thomas
Commanderie de la Bargemone
2007 Coteaux d’Aix en
Provence Rosé $15
“This was my summer outdoor drinking wine last year. I split a case with a friend and kept it around for picnics in Central Park, beach trips to Long Island, pool parties. It’s full of bright strawberry flavors, refreshingly crisp.” —N. Drummer
“I can tell just from seeing the bottle that this needs grilled lamb. People think that rosé is just for summer, but I think it’s great with food all year round.” —J. Marvin
“There’s so much food that can go with this. It’s salty. It’s fatty. Rosé is the most versatile wine out there.” —J. Kosseff
2006 Kamptal Steinsetz Grüner Veltliner $24
“Just lovely. Spicy, crisp, great fleshy texture.”—J. Heber
“Steinsetz creates full-bodied, complex veltliner, marked by the minerality of the gravel and loess soils. In Burgundy, a wine of this quality would literally be four or five times the price.” —P. Liem
Del Rio
2006 Rogue Valley Viognier $20
“Del Rio is a giant vineyard that basically made the Rogue Valley appellation.”—J. Kosseff
“This is a great rich white wine that’s not a chardonnay. It’s made for cheese and charcuterie.” — J. Marvin
Zaca Mesa
2006 Santa Ynez Valley Roussanne $25
“Zaca Mesa makes cool wines across the board—it’s a great property. The roussanne and other white Rhône varieties are planted on north-facing slopes, so they get a little less ripe.” —E. Kelley
“Zaca Mesa’s Roussanne is how I got my mother to try something besides California chardonnay.” —W. Weber
“I think white Rhône varietals and pork, savory pork, go really well together.”
—J. Kosseff
Domaine Olivier Pithon
2006 Cotes du Roussillon Cuvée Laïs $28
“This is a regal, rich white, like an Hermitage Blanc if Hermitage were bathed in Roussillon’s warm light. But it’s a fraction of the cost of a great Hermitage Blanc. (It’s also the best wine I’ve ever tasted that’s named after a Jersey cow.)” —T.Q. Thomas
“A wine for the people who don’t like white wine.” —R. Pierce
“The oak seems almost like a bridge to the wines of Burgundy.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“There’s a little honey to the flavor. It’s so pure. I’d pair it with skate wing fried in butter.” —R. Clement
Hogue
2006 Columbia Valley Chardonnay $9
“For people looking for chardonnay it’s got everything; this is the sort of wine that would work in every state in the country. That fleshy mouthfeel, that bit of tropical fruit. It’s a crowd-pleaser.” —R. Pierce
“It’s the right white for a cocktail party, or a ham and gruyère panini.” —J. Greene
Santa Barbara Crossing
2005 Santa Barbara County
Chardonnay $10
“This is a Thanksgiving white. It could also work with a dish of scallops, with a little cinnamon and butternut squash.” —A. Weil
“It’s Central Coast chardonnay all the way, with big, full flavors backed up by salty acidity. A lot of wine for ten bucks.” —W. Weber
Iron Horse
2005 Green Valley Chardonnay $27
“I’ve always liked the Iron Horse wines. It’s a very California style of chardonnay, but these have more acidity that most, which keeps them interesting. It would go with salmon, lobster, crab, and lighter meats.” —A. Weil
“Creamy and rich, with that vibrant acidity. I’d love to see this paired with seared day-boat scallops with an edamame purée and truffled kabayaki sauce...” —N. Daquip
L’Ecole No. 41
2006 Columbia Valley Semillon $16
“From the nose to the mouth to the acidity, this wine’s fruit is well balanced, not overpowering. It’s a great summer patio wine.”
— B. Gillespie
“This would be a good roast turkey wine; it’s appealing.” —E. Kelley
“I’d serve it with smoked fish—salmon, trout.” —J. Marvin
R. López di Heredia
1996 Rioja Viña Gravonia Crianza $27
“I would thank this operation one million times if I could. This is the reward for patience. Almond…marzipan… Amazing wine. It’s the best value here without question.” —R. Pierce
“An Old School white, the kind of wine only López de Heredia and few others produce. Waxy, mineral and fresh…a white for fried sardines.” —P. Tapia
“Or Marcona almonds. You don’t want to get too complicated. I could see a nice bowl of polenta with some Manchego cheese.”
—R. Clement
Sherry
Lustau
Jerez Puerto Fino Solera Reserva $14
“I jumpstart my appetite with fino. It makes me want to eat. This is a wine that gets people hungry.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“I really like the briny, clean flavors. It’s so crisp. I’d have it with oysters or some charcuterie.” —Steve Goldun
Hidalgo
Jerez Amontillado Napoleón $19
“This has the complexity of an aged amontillado while retaining the dry, austere finesse and liveliness of a fino.” —P. Liem
“Upfront, it’s really briny, and it has an almondy sort of flavor. It’s really a time and place wine. The real beauty of certain wines is in their context. You’re starting the evening, the sun’s going down in the summer…Sherry in this context is one of the most beautiful things in the world.” —A. Weil
“I’d want this with a dry salty cheese and almonds, or on the back porch, with some nuts.” —E. Railsback
Rosé
Muga
2006 Rioja Rosé $11
“It’s a lot of wine for the money! Very crisp and easy to drink. It’s got really nice acidity, a rose petal color, and lots of strawberry flavor.” —T. Snyder
“This offers more flavor most Rioja rosados while avoiding the watermelon candy syndrome. Instead, it tastes of garnacha’s cherry flavors and tempranillo’s spice, as vibrant as its pink hue.” —T.Q. Thomas
Commanderie de la Bargemone
2007 Coteaux d’Aix en
Provence Rosé $15
“This was my summer outdoor drinking wine last year. I split a case with a friend and kept it around for picnics in Central Park, beach trips to Long Island, pool parties. It’s full of bright strawberry flavors, refreshingly crisp.” —N. Drummer
“I can tell just from seeing the bottle that this needs grilled lamb. People think that rosé is just for summer, but I think it’s great with food all year round.” —J. Marvin
“There’s so much food that can go with this. It’s salty. It’s fatty. Rosé is the most versatile wine out there.” —J. Kosseff
2006 Santa Ynez Valley Roussanne $25
“Zaca Mesa makes cool wines across the board—it’s a great property. The roussanne and other white Rhône varieties are planted on north-facing slopes, so they get a little less ripe.” —E. Kelley
“Zaca Mesa’s Roussanne is how I got my mother to try something besides California chardonnay.” —W. Weber
“I think white Rhône varietals and pork, savory pork, go really well together.” —J. Kosseff
Domaine Olivier Pithon
2006 Cotes du Roussillon Cuvée Laïs $28
“This is a regal, rich white, like an Hermitage Blanc if Hermitage were bathed in Roussillon’s warm light. But it’s a fraction of the cost of a great Hermitage Blanc. (It’s also the best wine I’ve ever tasted that’s named after a Jersey cow.)” —T.Q. Thomas
“A wine for the people who don’t like white wine.” —R. Pierce
“The oak seems almost like a bridge to the wines of Burgundy.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“There’s a little honey to the flavor. It’s so pure. I’d pair it with skate wing fried in butter.” —R. Clement
Hogue
2006 Columbia Valley Chardonnay $9
“For people looking for chardonnay it’s got everything; this is the sort of wine that would work in every state in the country. That fleshy mouthfeel, that bit of tropical fruit. It’s a crowd-pleaser.” —R. Pierce
“It’s the right white for a cocktail party, or a ham and gruyère panini.” —J. Greene
Santa Barbara Crossing
2005 Santa Barbara County
Chardonnay $10
“This is a Thanksgiving white. It could also work with a dish of scallops, with a little cinnamon and butternut squash.” —A. Weil
“It’s Central Coast chardonnay all the way, with big, full flavors backed up by salty acidity. A lot of wine for ten bucks.” —W. Weber
Iron Horse
2005 Green Valley Chardonnay $27
“I’ve always liked the Iron Horse wines. It’s a very California style of chardonnay, but these have more acidity that most, which keeps them interesting. It would go with salmon, lobster, crab, and lighter meats.” —A. Weil
“Creamy and rich, with that vibrant acidity. I’d love to see this paired with seared day-boat scallops with an edamame purée and truffled kabayaki sauce...” —N. Daquip
L’Ecole No. 41
2006 Columbia Valley Semillon $16
“From the nose to the mouth to the acidity, this wine’s fruit is well balanced, not overpowering. It’s a great summer patio wine.”
— B. Gillespie
“This would be a good roast turkey wine; it’s appealing.” —E. Kelley
“I’d serve it with smoked fish—salmon, trout.” —J. Marvin
R. López di Heredia
1996 Rioja Viña Gravonia Crianza $27
“I would thank this operation one million times if I could. This is the reward for patience. Almond…marzipan… Amazing wine. It’s the best value here without question.” —R. Pierce
“An Old School white, the kind of wine only López de Heredia and few others produce. Waxy, mineral and fresh…a white for fried sardines.” —P. Tapia
“Or Marcona almonds. You don’t want to get too complicated. I could see a nice bowl of polenta with some Manchego cheese.”
—R. Clement
Sherry
Lustau
Jerez Puerto Fino Solera Reserva $14
“I jumpstart my appetite with fino. It makes me want to eat. This is a wine that gets people hungry.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“I really like the briny, clean flavors. It’s so crisp. I’d have it with oysters or some charcuterie.” —Steve Goldun
Hidalgo
Jerez Amontillado Napoleón $19
“This has the complexity of an aged amontillado while retaining the dry, austere finesse and liveliness of a fino.” —P. Liem
“Upfront, it’s really briny, and it has an almondy sort of flavor. It’s really a time and place wine. The real beauty of certain wines is in their context. You’re starting the evening, the sun’s going down in the summer…Sherry in this context is one of the most beautiful things in the world.” —A. Weil
“I’d want this with a dry salty cheese and almonds, or on the back porch, with some nuts.” —E. Railsback
Rosé
Muga
2006 Rioja Rosé $11
“It’s a lot of wine for the money! Very crisp and easy to drink. It’s got really nice acidity, a rose petal color, and lots of strawberry flavor.” —T. Snyder
“This offers more flavor most Rioja rosados while avoiding the watermelon candy syndrome. Instead, it tastes of garnacha’s cherry flavors and tempranillo’s spice, as vibrant as its pink hue.” —T.Q. Thomas
Commanderie de la Bargemone
2007 Coteaux d’Aix en
Provence Rosé $15
“This was my summer outdoor drinking wine last year. I split a case with a friend and kept it around for picnics in Central Park, beach trips to Long Island, pool parties. It’s full of bright strawberry flavors, refreshingly crisp.” —N. Drummer
“I can tell just from seeing the bottle that this needs grilled lamb. People think that rosé is just for summer, but I think it’s great with food all year round.” —J. Marvin
“There’s so much food that can go with this. It’s salty. It’s fatty. Rosé is the most versatile wine out there.” —J. Kosseff
2006 Columbia Valley Chardonnay $9
“For people looking for chardonnay it’s got everything; this is the sort of wine that would work in every state in the country. That fleshy mouthfeel, that bit of tropical fruit. It’s a crowd-pleaser.” —R. Pierce
“It’s the right white for a cocktail party, or a ham and gruyère panini.” —J. Greene
Santa Barbara Crossing
2005 Santa Barbara County
Chardonnay $10
“This is a Thanksgiving white. It could also work with a dish of scallops, with a little cinnamon and butternut squash.” —A. Weil
“It’s Central Coast chardonnay all the way, with big, full flavors backed up by salty acidity. A lot of wine for ten bucks.” —W. Weber
Iron Horse
2005 Green Valley Chardonnay $27
“I’ve always liked the Iron Horse wines. It’s a very California style of chardonnay, but these have more acidity that most, which keeps them interesting. It would go with salmon, lobster, crab, and lighter meats.” —A. Weil
“Creamy and rich, with that vibrant acidity. I’d love to see this paired with seared day-boat scallops with an edamame purée and truffled kabayaki sauce...” —N. Daquip
L’Ecole No. 41
2006 Columbia Valley Semillon $16
“From the nose to the mouth to the acidity, this wine’s fruit is well balanced, not overpowering. It’s a great summer patio wine.”
— B. Gillespie
“This would be a good roast turkey wine; it’s appealing.” —E. Kelley
“I’d serve it with smoked fish—salmon, trout.” —J. Marvin
R. López di Heredia
1996 Rioja Viña Gravonia Crianza $27
“I would thank this operation one million times if I could. This is the reward for patience. Almond…marzipan… Amazing wine. It’s the best value here without question.” —R. Pierce
“An Old School white, the kind of wine only López de Heredia and few others produce. Waxy, mineral and fresh…a white for fried sardines.” —P. Tapia
“Or Marcona almonds. You don’t want to get too complicated. I could see a nice bowl of polenta with some Manchego cheese.”
—R. Clement
Sherry
Lustau
Jerez Puerto Fino Solera Reserva $14
“I jumpstart my appetite with fino. It makes me want to eat. This is a wine that gets people hungry.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“I really like the briny, clean flavors. It’s so crisp. I’d have it with oysters or some charcuterie.” —Steve Goldun
Hidalgo
Jerez Amontillado Napoleón $19
“This has the complexity of an aged amontillado while retaining the dry, austere finesse and liveliness of a fino.” —P. Liem
“Upfront, it’s really briny, and it has an almondy sort of flavor. It’s really a time and place wine. The real beauty of certain wines is in their context. You’re starting the evening, the sun’s going down in the summer…Sherry in this context is one of the most beautiful things in the world.” —A. Weil
“I’d want this with a dry salty cheese and almonds, or on the back porch, with some nuts.” —E. Railsback
Rosé
Muga
2006 Rioja Rosé $11
“It’s a lot of wine for the money! Very crisp and easy to drink. It’s got really nice acidity, a rose petal color, and lots of strawberry flavor.” —T. Snyder
“This offers more flavor most Rioja rosados while avoiding the watermelon candy syndrome. Instead, it tastes of garnacha’s cherry flavors and tempranillo’s spice, as vibrant as its pink hue.” —T.Q. Thomas
Commanderie de la Bargemone
2007 Coteaux d’Aix en
Provence Rosé $15
“This was my summer outdoor drinking wine last year. I split a case with a friend and kept it around for picnics in Central Park, beach trips to Long Island, pool parties. It’s full of bright strawberry flavors, refreshingly crisp.” —N. Drummer
“I can tell just from seeing the bottle that this needs grilled lamb. People think that rosé is just for summer, but I think it’s great with food all year round.” —J. Marvin
“There’s so much food that can go with this. It’s salty. It’s fatty. Rosé is the most versatile wine out there.” —J. Kosseff
2005 Green Valley Chardonnay $27
“I’ve always liked the Iron Horse wines. It’s a very California style of chardonnay, but these have more acidity that most, which keeps them interesting. It would go with salmon, lobster, crab, and lighter meats.” —A. Weil
“Creamy and rich, with that vibrant acidity. I’d love to see this paired with seared day-boat scallops with an edamame purée and truffled kabayaki sauce...” —N. Daquip
L’Ecole No. 41
2006 Columbia Valley Semillon $16
“From the nose to the mouth to the acidity, this wine’s fruit is well balanced, not overpowering. It’s a great summer patio wine.”
— B. Gillespie
“This would be a good roast turkey wine; it’s appealing.” —E. Kelley
“I’d serve it with smoked fish—salmon, trout.” —J. Marvin
R. López di Heredia
1996 Rioja Viña Gravonia Crianza $27
“I would thank this operation one million times if I could. This is the reward for patience. Almond…marzipan… Amazing wine. It’s the best value here without question.” —R. Pierce
“An Old School white, the kind of wine only López de Heredia and few others produce. Waxy, mineral and fresh…a white for fried sardines.” —P. Tapia
“Or Marcona almonds. You don’t want to get too complicated. I could see a nice bowl of polenta with some Manchego cheese.”
—R. Clement
Sherry
Lustau
Jerez Puerto Fino Solera Reserva $14
“I jumpstart my appetite with fino. It makes me want to eat. This is a wine that gets people hungry.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“I really like the briny, clean flavors. It’s so crisp. I’d have it with oysters or some charcuterie.” —Steve Goldun
Hidalgo
Jerez Amontillado Napoleón $19
“This has the complexity of an aged amontillado while retaining the dry, austere finesse and liveliness of a fino.” —P. Liem
“Upfront, it’s really briny, and it has an almondy sort of flavor. It’s really a time and place wine. The real beauty of certain wines is in their context. You’re starting the evening, the sun’s going down in the summer…Sherry in this context is one of the most beautiful things in the world.” —A. Weil
“I’d want this with a dry salty cheese and almonds, or on the back porch, with some nuts.” —E. Railsback
Rosé
Muga
2006 Rioja Rosé $11
“It’s a lot of wine for the money! Very crisp and easy to drink. It’s got really nice acidity, a rose petal color, and lots of strawberry flavor.” —T. Snyder
“This offers more flavor most Rioja rosados while avoiding the watermelon candy syndrome. Instead, it tastes of garnacha’s cherry flavors and tempranillo’s spice, as vibrant as its pink hue.” —T.Q. Thomas
Commanderie de la Bargemone
2007 Coteaux d’Aix en
Provence Rosé $15
“This was my summer outdoor drinking wine last year. I split a case with a friend and kept it around for picnics in Central Park, beach trips to Long Island, pool parties. It’s full of bright strawberry flavors, refreshingly crisp.” —N. Drummer
“I can tell just from seeing the bottle that this needs grilled lamb. People think that rosé is just for summer, but I think it’s great with food all year round.” —J. Marvin
“There’s so much food that can go with this. It’s salty. It’s fatty. Rosé is the most versatile wine out there.” —J. Kosseff
“I would thank this operation one million times if I could. This is the reward for patience. Almond…marzipan… Amazing wine. It’s the best value here without question.” —R. Pierce
“An Old School white, the kind of wine only López de Heredia and few others produce. Waxy, mineral and fresh…a white for fried sardines.” —P. Tapia
“Or Marcona almonds. You don’t want to get too complicated. I could see a nice bowl of polenta with some Manchego cheese.” —R. Clement
Sherry
Lustau
Jerez Puerto Fino Solera Reserva $14
“I jumpstart my appetite with fino. It makes me want to eat. This is a wine that gets people hungry.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“I really like the briny, clean flavors. It’s so crisp. I’d have it with oysters or some charcuterie.” —Steve Goldun
Hidalgo
Jerez Amontillado Napoleón $19
“This has the complexity of an aged amontillado while retaining the dry, austere finesse and liveliness of a fino.” —P. Liem
“Upfront, it’s really briny, and it has an almondy sort of flavor. It’s really a time and place wine. The real beauty of certain wines is in their context. You’re starting the evening, the sun’s going down in the summer…Sherry in this context is one of the most beautiful things in the world.” —A. Weil
“I’d want this with a dry salty cheese and almonds, or on the back porch, with some nuts.” —E. Railsback
Rosé
Muga
2006 Rioja Rosé $11
“It’s a lot of wine for the money! Very crisp and easy to drink. It’s got really nice acidity, a rose petal color, and lots of strawberry flavor.” —T. Snyder
“This offers more flavor most Rioja rosados while avoiding the watermelon candy syndrome. Instead, it tastes of garnacha’s cherry flavors and tempranillo’s spice, as vibrant as its pink hue.” —T.Q. Thomas
Commanderie de la Bargemone
2007 Coteaux d’Aix en
Provence Rosé $15
“This was my summer outdoor drinking wine last year. I split a case with a friend and kept it around for picnics in Central Park, beach trips to Long Island, pool parties. It’s full of bright strawberry flavors, refreshingly crisp.” —N. Drummer
“I can tell just from seeing the bottle that this needs grilled lamb. People think that rosé is just for summer, but I think it’s great with food all year round.” —J. Marvin
“There’s so much food that can go with this. It’s salty. It’s fatty. Rosé is the most versatile wine out there.” —J. Kosseff
“This has the complexity of an aged amontillado while retaining the dry, austere finesse and liveliness of a fino.” —P. Liem
“Upfront, it’s really briny, and it has an almondy sort of flavor. It’s really a time and place wine. The real beauty of certain wines is in their context. You’re starting the evening, the sun’s going down in the summer…Sherry in this context is one of the most beautiful things in the world.” —A. Weil
“I’d want this with a dry salty cheese and almonds, or on the back porch, with some nuts.” —E. Railsback
Rosé
Muga
2006 Rioja Rosé $11
“It’s a lot of wine for the money! Very crisp and easy to drink. It’s got really nice acidity, a rose petal color, and lots of strawberry flavor.” —T. Snyder
“This offers more flavor most Rioja rosados while avoiding the watermelon candy syndrome. Instead, it tastes of garnacha’s cherry flavors and tempranillo’s spice, as vibrant as its pink hue.” —T.Q. Thomas
Commanderie de la Bargemone
2007 Coteaux d’Aix en
Provence Rosé $15
“This was my summer outdoor drinking wine last year. I split a case with a friend and kept it around for picnics in Central Park, beach trips to Long Island, pool parties. It’s full of bright strawberry flavors, refreshingly crisp.” —N. Drummer
“I can tell just from seeing the bottle that this needs grilled lamb. People think that rosé is just for summer, but I think it’s great with food all year round.” —J. Marvin
“There’s so much food that can go with this. It’s salty. It’s fatty. Rosé is the most versatile wine out there.” —J. Kosseff
2007 Coteaux d’Aix en Provence Rosé $15
“This was my summer outdoor drinking wine last year. I split a case with a friend and kept it around for picnics in Central Park, beach trips to Long Island, pool parties. It’s full of bright strawberry flavors, refreshingly crisp.” —N. Drummer
“I can tell just from seeing the bottle that this needs grilled lamb. People think that rosé is just for summer, but I think it’s great with food all year round.” —J. Marvin
“There’s so much food that can go with this. It’s salty. It’s fatty. Rosé is the most versatile wine out there.” —J. Kosseff
Bright Red
J. Lohr
2007 Monterey Wildflower Valdiguié $9
“In the midst of a lot of high-alcohol wines coming out of California, this one stands apart for its light, super-fresh flavors (not to mention its price). It’s light enough to match grilled fish yet has plenty enough purple berry flavor for a burger as well.” —T.Q. Thomas
“This is a picnic red, simple, friendly and affordable.” —J. Heber
Jean-François Mérieau
2006 Touraine Le Bois Jacou Gamay $15
“This has bright rustic berry fruits, pepper, mineral and a nice balancing acidity. Delicious!” —J. Marvin
“It seems like you can really taste the Loire terroir. It brings out a smoke and an earthy quality that most Beaujolais don’t have.”
—R. Pierce
“This is a straight-up bistro wine, for straight-up bistro food like roast lamb with lentils.” —E. Porto Carreiro
Georges Duboeuf
2006 Moulin-à-Vent
Domaine des Rosiers $15
“Acidity is in the voice of this wine. If you have too much acidity it’s like getting yelled at. It’s too much. This one’s just right.”
—R. Pierce
“It’s a nice silky wine, and it’s got a lot of oomph, too, for Beaujolais. The high tone is good for duck confit, Old School, with braised cabbage.” —Mark Mendoza
Skouras
2005 Nemea St. George $13
“It really has a nose like pinot noir.”
—R. Pierce
“It really does; such a clean, silky palate, with fresh acidity.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“That’s agiorgitiko’s plummy flavors and the scent of Nemea’s sun-warmed, wild-oregano-filled slopes. I’d serve it with moussaka or grilled lamb with dark olives.”
—T.Q. Thomas
MacMurray Ranch
2005 Central Coast Pinot Noir $20
“With some California pinots, you can’t even tell if it’s syrah or pinot. This is definitely pinot.” —A. Weil
“It’s a very easy, everyday wine and shows its varietal very well, especially at this price point.” —T. Snyder
“You could serve it with roast chicken or duck, but I’d probably prefer to drink this on its own, before dinner on a warm summer night outside.” —Chris Tanghe
A to Z
2006 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir $20
“This is a little earthier [than MacMurray]. It has that rainy, forest floor feel to it, an accurate representation of Oregon pinot. I can see it with chicken with mushrooms in a cream sauce. Mushroom anything, salmon anything, game bird anything…it would also be fantastic with a carbonara.”
—A. Weil
Cristom
2006 Willamette Valley
Mt. Jefferson Cuvée Pinot Noir $30
“You stick your nose in there; it’s nothing but pinot noir.” —J. Heber
“It’s entry-level Oregon pinot noir, balanced and flavorful.” —J. Marvin
“It’s the thinking man’s cabernet.”—E. Kelley
Handley
2006 Mendocino County Pinot Noir $25
“Mendocino Pinot Noir has this beautiful wild cherry and black tea aroma. I’d serve this a little cool with duck confit and sauteed morel mushrooms.” —N. Daquip
“Milla Handley’s pinots are fresh and unpretentious. This one has the cool scent of the Mendocino coast.” —J. Greene
Calera
2006 Mount Harlan Cuvée Pinot Noir $30
“This is so silky, and meaty at the same time. It has what I like to call my goatee of tannin (a shadow, not a full-on beard).” —M. Mendoza
“There’s such blue fruit to this wine.”
—R. Clement
“It’s got a lot more minerals than I’m used to in California pinots, that’s for sure. And tarter fruits—red currants, Rainer cherries, raspberries. It’s a great wine for roast duck or quail.” — C. Tanghe
Domaine de la Noblaie
2004 Chinon
Les Chiens-Chiens Rouge $15
“Talk about a pure rustic expression of Loire valley cab franc! The berry fruit, minerals, herbal notes and pepper. Loads of complexity.”
—J. Marvin
“It’s like someone coming up to you with a bundle of dill and putting it in your face. It seems like a great pairing with our roast turkey sandwich, with a cranberry mayonnaise.” —R. Pierce
“It’s big and it’s meaty, but it’s got this candied violet thing on the finish. Chinon can be too serious. This one’s got some charm.” —R. Clement
Thierry Puzelat
2006 Vin de Table
La Tesnière Pineau d’Aunis $27
“I love French country wines. This might change your perception of any wine you’ve ever tasted before.” —A. Weil
“Pineau d’aunis is a deliciously rustic, food-friendly variety that deserves to be better known. Puzelat tames the grape’s tough tannins and brings out a plummy flavor that’s succulent and inviting.” —P. Liem
Rhône Family
Le Pigeolet en Provence
2006 Vin de Pays de Vaucluse $16
“This is one of those wines you just want to drink the second it’s open. It’s got really bright fruit, and good acidity.”
—E. Railsback
“This far outperforms its appellation. It’s a stand out for its restrained ripeness and easy, natural feel.” —T.Q. Thomas
“The lively acidity makes it delicious, savory and food friendly as well. I can see it with liver paté and cornichons.”
—N. Drummer
Château Mont-Redon
2005 Côtes du Rhône $15
“Spicy and wild. This is the best wine for the price in this tasting. This is great; it’s got balance, structure, flavor.” —J. Kosseff
“For leg of lamb, rosemary, garlic. Keep it simple.” —J. Marvin
Domaine du Nizas
2003 Coteaux du Languedoc $17
“It’s a nice entry into southern France, the wood gives you some familiarity, yet it’s all Rhône varietals in its expression.” —J. Marvin
“Particularly in the hot vintage of 2003, this stands out for its woodsy, earthy flavors, stony minerality and firm tannin. It’s a syrah with some restraint.” —T.Q. Thomas
“A wine for sausages, merguez, Basque sausage.” —E. Kelley
Yalumba
2006 Barossa Bush Vine Grenache $16
“There’s a nice violet floral aroma, but it’s a big wine, very sweet, very ripe. It’s like Châteauneuf-du-Pape in a super-hot year.” —R. Clement
“It’s ripe, but it’s got some acid; there’s a sort of sweet-tart thing with the sugar.” —R. Pierce
“Total chick wine; all those flowers and sweet raspberry fruit.” —M. Mendoza
d’Arenberg
2005 McLaren Vale
d’Arry’s Original Shiraz–Grenache $19
“This may have grenache but it’s much deeper and smokier than the Yalumba.” —R. Pierce
“And it’s got those big, dark chewy tannins that signals shiraz.” —M. Mendoza
“It’s a great, old-fashioned McLaren Vale red, the kind of classical, old-vine blend you don’t see around much anymore. It’s named for Chester Osborn’s father, who first made it in the 1960s. This 2005 is one of their best yet.” —J. Greene
“It’s really voluptuous, great with venison with porcini and bacon.” —C. Tanghe
Penfolds
2004 South Australia Bin 389
Cabernet–Shiraz $28
“It’s got big, black fruit, and lots of cassis and kir. It doesn’t have too much heat, and it’s got some cabernet to mellow it out. It’s an all-things-to-all people wine. It’s somewhat light on its feet, so you could drink it in the summer, but it’s also hearty enough for the winter.” —A. Weil
“It’s also a wine you can use to start a collection. This will age for fifteen years or more.” —J. Greene
Boomtown
2006 Columbia Valley Syrah $15
“It’s got that sexy layer of oak. I see lots of people liking it a lot. It’s not as dark and tannic as the Penfolds.” —E. Railsback
“I loved this wine. It has a lot of red berry fruit and it’s easy to drink.” —E. Moro
Gordon Brothers
2005 Columbia Valley Syrah $19
“It’s hearty, with a lot of black cherry and toffee flavor—a wine that’ll go with a steak or barbecue, anything with a bit of spice and strong flavors.” —S. Goldun
“This needs grilled red meat.” —J. Kosseff
“Or even Korean BBQ, the balance between the sweetness and the spice in both the food and the wine would work.” —E. Kelley
Qupé
2006 Central Coast Syrah $17
“One of my favorite value wines year in and out. Blackberry, peppery and clean. This is the first California wine I ever collected. The prices were—still are—low.” —J. Heber
“This works with deep south, saucy barbecue. Or a lot of the sesame-flavored pan-Asian dishes.” — J. Kosseff
Philippe Faury
2005 St-Joseph $28
“How clovey is that? You get all these white flowers too.” —R. Pierce
“I dig it. It’s just full-on syrah from sandy soils, very light, very pretty, and no oak at all. I’d serve it with cassoulet.”—E. Porto Carreiro
“Or a cold venison salad with rocket. This wine is a ‘Hepburn’—sleek and elegant. The color’s really beautiful, too. And look at this, it’s 12.8 percent alcohol.” —M. Mendoza
Parducci
2004 Mendocino
True Grit Petite Sirah $25
“This has those textbook chewy tannins of petite, that cocoa powder thing that happens with the tannins.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“It has just a terrific amount of potential; it will evolve so much over the years.”
—R. Clement
“This wine is all about John Wayne, western food. Well there, pilgrim….ribs off the grill, or ribs with some sweet, herbed rub, maybe a little vinegar in the barbecue sauce.”
—M. Mendoza
Mediterranean/
Iberian Varieties
Chakana
2006 Mendoza Bonarda $11
“There’s a delicate balance between something that’s fresh and good, and something that’s watery and poorly made. This is not at all watery. It’s light and it’s fresh.” —A. Weil
“If you don’t know bonarda, this Chakana is a great way to taste the red fruit flavors and vibrant acidity of the grape.” —P. Tapia
Quinta do Encontro
2004 Bairrada Q do E $9
“This is really good for a nine-dollar wine. It’s a fuller-bodied red with a bit of oak—lots of vanilla notes—but it’s easily approachable. It’s got light tannins, which make it easy to drink.”—E. Railsback
“The baga grape in Bairrada can often be unrelentingly tannic. Here it’s deliciously spicy, especially with grilled lamb.” —J. Greene
Dona Maria
2005 Alentejano VR $17
“This is fantastic. It’s got lots of sweet black fruit, leather and smoke, and earth. It’s powerful and the grippy tannins would be great with braised short ribs or some other braised meat dish. It’s definitely a food wine—it really has the acidity and the tannin structure for it.” —C. Tanghe
“It’s going to go with any sort of grilled steak, spiced meats.” —J. Heber
“Or with Portuguese cheeses, like Serra da Estrela.” —E. Kelley
Gordonzello Peregrino
2005 Tierras de León
Roble Prieto Picudo $18
“It really needs salty Iberian tapas.”
—J. Kosseff
“This Peregrino feels like a refreshing black cherry sorbet, precisely the way Prieto Picudo should taste.” —P. Tapia
Marqués de Cáceres
2001 Rioja Reserva $23
“It has such a soft, fleshy cherry fruit, such a lovely texture.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“A velvety wine, this is really delicious…it took seven years to make that texture.” —M. Mendoza
“It’s a wine for grilled lamb, or beef. That earthiness would pair with mushrooms, to go along with the meat.” —P.J. Comiskey
Ridge
2006 Sonoma County
Three Valleys Zinfandel $22
“It’s bright and tasty. I definitely don’t like a lot of zins; usually the color is so dense that you can’t even see through it. Here, the alcohol is low enough. It’s very refreshing for a zinfandel, not at all over the top. It has some carignan, which seems to lighten it up a bit.” —E. Railsback
Frog’s Leap
2006 Napa Valley Zinfandel $27
“A classic claret-style zin—this has a lot of acidity. It’s not jammy. What’s really cool about it is that comes from organic, dry-farmed vineyards, which is significant because Napa’s sort of irrigation-heavy. Zinfandel in particular seems to respond really well to dry farming. The other thing I love about this wine is that it’s 13.5 alcohol, which is less than most cabs, and this is a zin, which is supposed to be big and bad.” —W. Weber
Italian Reds
Librandi
2004 Cirò Duca San Felice Riserva $18
“I like that it’s fairly light in color, and it’s still rustic and hearty—this would go great with lamb with garlic and herbs. The wine can actually stand up to some pretty heavy foods.” —S. Goldun
“I order this almost every time I go to Pizzeria Delfina in San Francisco. We drank Cirò all summer when I lived in Rome, and when I have it here it just takes me back. The acidity and funky, earthy fruit flavors are totally Italian.” —W. Weber
Fattoria La Peschiera
2005 Morellino di Scansano $17
“The ideal combination of dried fruit, grainy tannins, acidity.” —J. Kosseff
“It’s a steal at the price, with all that structure and flavor, you could even lay it down.”
—J. Marvin
“Drink it with steak tagliatta, a rare steak grilled and tossed with salad.” —J. Heber
Melini
2005 Chianti Classico Isassi $15
“I get a lot of rose petal. Maybe dried rose petal. There’s some dried meat in there too…this is a palate wine. It’s delicious.” —R. Clement
“Serve it with duck with cherries.” —M. Mendoza
“Or it’s juicy enough to go with a capicola sandwich.” —R. Pierce
Le Macchiole
2005 Bolgheri Rosso $32
“Surprisingly accessible. I think it’s the best wine I’ve had today. Very New World style. But it’s so plush, so concentrated. I’d serve it with Kobe beef.” —M. Mendoza
“This estate grows one of the best cabernet francs in the world. The Bolgheri Rosso is one-third the price—a selection from the younger merlot and cab franc vines with a little syrah and sangiovese. It’s a way in to one of the great vineyards of Tuscany.”
—J. Greene
Abbazia di Novacella
2006 Alto Adige Lagrein $27
“This lagrein’s got a lot of concentration, but it doesn’t have the typical tough tannins. It has bright cherry fruit, and the acidity feels fresh in your mouth. Just classic.” —E. Railsback
“This has the freshness and the spice of a great red from the Italian Alps. The acidity makes it really versatile. It’s too light for steak, but with that acidity it needs something with a little bit of fat…like a grilled bone-in pork chop.” —W. Weber
Il Roncal
2005 Colli Orientali del Friuli
Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso $22
“The tart, bright cherry fruit makes your mouth pucker. It has a classic earthiness. I think it’s a wine to drink in a year or two, though. Not right away.” —E. Railsback
“I love refosco for its juicy fruitiness and freshness. This has considerable depth yet it doesn’t feel heavy, thanks to a lively balance of acidity and tannin.” —P. Liem
Poderi Luigi Einaudi
2006 Dolcetto di Dogliani $22
“This is a sexy wine. The nose isn’t so hard to figure out, and you just want to taste it.” — J. Kosseff
“Dogliani always has intense, structured dolcettos. This one is a bird wine: game hen, quail.” —J. Heber
Cantina del Pino
2005 Barbera d’Alba $32
“Barbera d’Alba will always be the younger brother of the bigger Piedmontese wines—a wine that speaks to youth and energy. Very primary with fruit while being playful and spicy. With slow-roasted baby back ribs—this would be my Old World alternative to zinfandel this summer.” —N. Daquip
“The acidity in barbera makes it one of my go-to red wines. You can drink it with almost anything. This one also shows a sense of minerality, a firmness and satisfying flavor.” —W. Weber
Damilano
2005 Nebbiolo d’Alba $21
“It’s an amazing wine for the money. The distance between Barolo and Alba is like the distance between Echo Park and Silver Lake, but the grape can still perform, hill to hill.” —R. Clement
“It’s so elegant and balanced. This is the best value of them all.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“It actually smells a little bit like Fernet. No, really, it's like Averna. It's killer.”
—M. Mendoza
Cabernet Family
Snoqualmie
2006 Columbia Valley Merlot $10
“This is a great little wine for ten dollars.” —R. Pierce
“It has some classic Washington merlot elements, a nice red berry lightness and succulent texture. There's a little creamy caramel wood flavor on the finish. It's easy to drink on its own.” —Patrick J. Comiskey
Santa Rita
2006 Rapel Valley Reserva Carmenère $14
“A textbook carmenère, this offers bell peppers and chocolatey flavors surrounded by a mellow, round texture.” —P. Tapia
“The vegetal nose reminds me of cabernet franc. It's a wine for the more adventurous. This brings in different flavors and textures and florals, more than just dark fruit and oak. It would work really well with cassoulet—pork sausage, beef tongue and duck confit.
Morandé
2005 Maipo Valley
Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon $17
“It's not so green that it's over the top and it doesn't have a big fat oak presence. The acidity gives it its brightness.” —E. Railsback
Bodegas Nieto Senetiner
2005 Mendoza Don Nicanor Malbec $17
“My marker for malbec is that it looks like syrah but it tastes like cabernet.” —J. Heber
“This is a voluptuous and ripe example of the grape. It seems it was made for Argentine asado.” —P. Tapia
Caro
2006 Mendoza Amancaya $20
“This really shows its Bordeaux roots, with a great texture.” —J. Kosseff
“This is a joint venture between Catena and Lafite–Rothschild in Bordeaux. Their top wine, “Caro,” is twice as expensive. Amancaya has more malbec in the blend, meant for early drinking.” —J. Greene
“For the price, this is really good, and it's showing better now than the Caro.”
—J. Heber
Tamarack
2006 Columbia Valley Firehouse Red $20
“This is a kitchen–sink blend from great vineyards all over the Columbia Valley—it's routinely one of the state's best bang–for–the–buck reds. The 2006 is juicy and rich, with a healthy slug of chocolatey oak to hold all that fruit together.” —P.J. Comiskey
“It smells like a caramel macchiato. I'd serve this with beef bourguignon.”
—E. Porto Carreiro
Chateau Ste. Michelle
2005 Columbia Valley Indian Wells Cabernet Sauvignon $19
“Foursquare and dark–fruited, this has black cherry and plum flavors grounded by firm tannin.” —P.J. Comiskey
“It fits in with a rib–eye steak.” —R. Clement
Cadence
2006 Columbia Valley Coda $25
“This has a lot of red fruit, like cranberry. It's a perfect prime rib wine. It's delicate and not at all in your face, like a lot of other Washington wines.” —A. Weil
“Ben Smith's wines are elegant and satisfying, and this is a great way to get to know his style.” —W. Weber
Chateau Phélan–Ségur
2004 St–Estèphe $25
“This is a vintage for people who are long on time and short on money.” —A. Weil
“Many of the '04s from St–Estèphe are sort of unforgiving as young wines. This one is easy to drink. It has a clean fruit quality, a lot of complexity, a lot of layers. It needs some cellaring to show off what it's got…a great counter to expensive California cabernets, and a fantastic value for Left Bank Bordeaux.” —S. Goldun
“I finished up some '89 Phélan two years ago, just when it was beginning to fade. Still working on a case of 2000. This 2004 will keep beautifully—one of the more elegant wines from St–Estèphe.” —J. Greene
Beringer
2005 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $27
“This is a big rich wine, made for a steak. At the price, it delivers a lot in terms of value.”
—J. Kosseff
“Wines from that area can easily be up to $230. This one has nice length and a beautiful nose. The mouthfeel is very velvety. It's a great value at $27.” —B. Gillespie
Pelton House
2005 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $45
“This is a new brand from a great vineyard farmed by Jess Jackson's family company. It's made by a Chilean woman, Marcia Monahan, who planted some carmenère on the property to blend in with this cabernet. A vineyard to watch.” —J. Greene
Sweet & Complex
Dr. Loosen
2006 Mosel Riesling Beerenauslese $25
“This is all from Bernkasteler Lay, harvested from early–developing botrytis. Don't be fooled by the price. This is serious BA, made by one of the masters of the style. It could be the greatest value in dessert wine currently on the market.” —P. Liem
“I'd drink it with baked apricot stuffed with mascarpone.” —R. Pierce
“For me, this is like pumpkin, some candied pumpkin dessert. Even a pumpkin soup.” —M. Mendoza
Royal Tokaji Wine Company
2003 Tokaji 5 Puttonyos $39
“Tokaji really have a niche. It's definitely not riesling, definitely not Sauternes. It's its own thing with a unique place on the menu.”
—R. Pierce
“Tokaji used to be considered one of the finest wines in the world; this wine ranks up there, without the price tag to match. It's opulent, with golden apricot, orange, beeswax and smoke flavors, with vibrant acidity that wraps it tightly and will keep this going for at least another twenty years.” —T.Q. Thomas
“I'm getting such a hit of orange. A wine for orange mousse.” —M. Mendoza
Loel
Cyprus Commandaria $12
“It's got a lot of salty, nutty characteristics. This would go well with aged Manchego, and would make a nice aperitif.”
—E. Railsback
“Where else in the world can you find a satin–textured wine laden with figgy fruit, spice and molasses notes for $12? A glass is all you need for dessert, and a little goes a long way.” —T.Q. Thomas
Quinta do Vesuvio
2005 Porto $63
“It tastes really great this young, but I'd keep it for twenty years.” —J. Kosseff
“And it will easily live that long. Vesuvio is only ever made as a single–quinta Port; it's one of the Symington family's best properties.” —J. Greene
“For a young Port like this, pairing it with a Roquefort is perfect. There's a wonderful balance.” —E. Kelley
Croft
2005 Porto Quinta da Roeda $47
“It has a classic profile and needs some age. An excellent value in a Vintage Port. Some of the sweeter wines tend to be more exuberant; this one's a little drier.” —S. Goldun
“The Taylor Fonseca group purchased Roeda in 2001 and the work they've done on the vineyard is beginning to show in this 2005. It's a legendary site, and will likely regain its reputation as a top vineyard in the years to come. Which makes it a great buy at the moment.” —J. Greene
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2006 Touraine Le Bois Jacou Gamay $15
“This has bright rustic berry fruits, pepper, mineral and a nice balancing acidity. Delicious!” —J. Marvin
“It seems like you can really taste the Loire terroir. It brings out a smoke and an earthy quality that most Beaujolais don’t have.” —R. Pierce
“This is a straight-up bistro wine, for straight-up bistro food like roast lamb with lentils.” —E. Porto Carreiro
Georges Duboeuf
2006 Moulin-à-Vent
Domaine des Rosiers $15
“Acidity is in the voice of this wine. If you have too much acidity it’s like getting yelled at. It’s too much. This one’s just right.”
—R. Pierce
“It’s a nice silky wine, and it’s got a lot of oomph, too, for Beaujolais. The high tone is good for duck confit, Old School, with braised cabbage.” —Mark Mendoza
Skouras
2005 Nemea St. George $13
“It really has a nose like pinot noir.”
—R. Pierce
“It really does; such a clean, silky palate, with fresh acidity.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“That’s agiorgitiko’s plummy flavors and the scent of Nemea’s sun-warmed, wild-oregano-filled slopes. I’d serve it with moussaka or grilled lamb with dark olives.”
—T.Q. Thomas
MacMurray Ranch
2005 Central Coast Pinot Noir $20
“With some California pinots, you can’t even tell if it’s syrah or pinot. This is definitely pinot.” —A. Weil
“It’s a very easy, everyday wine and shows its varietal very well, especially at this price point.” —T. Snyder
“You could serve it with roast chicken or duck, but I’d probably prefer to drink this on its own, before dinner on a warm summer night outside.” —Chris Tanghe
A to Z
2006 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir $20
“This is a little earthier [than MacMurray]. It has that rainy, forest floor feel to it, an accurate representation of Oregon pinot. I can see it with chicken with mushrooms in a cream sauce. Mushroom anything, salmon anything, game bird anything…it would also be fantastic with a carbonara.”
—A. Weil
Cristom
2006 Willamette Valley
Mt. Jefferson Cuvée Pinot Noir $30
“You stick your nose in there; it’s nothing but pinot noir.” —J. Heber
“It’s entry-level Oregon pinot noir, balanced and flavorful.” —J. Marvin
“It’s the thinking man’s cabernet.”—E. Kelley
Handley
2006 Mendocino County Pinot Noir $25
“Mendocino Pinot Noir has this beautiful wild cherry and black tea aroma. I’d serve this a little cool with duck confit and sauteed morel mushrooms.” —N. Daquip
“Milla Handley’s pinots are fresh and unpretentious. This one has the cool scent of the Mendocino coast.” —J. Greene
Calera
2006 Mount Harlan Cuvée Pinot Noir $30
“This is so silky, and meaty at the same time. It has what I like to call my goatee of tannin (a shadow, not a full-on beard).” —M. Mendoza
“There’s such blue fruit to this wine.”
—R. Clement
“It’s got a lot more minerals than I’m used to in California pinots, that’s for sure. And tarter fruits—red currants, Rainer cherries, raspberries. It’s a great wine for roast duck or quail.” — C. Tanghe
Domaine de la Noblaie
2004 Chinon
Les Chiens-Chiens Rouge $15
“Talk about a pure rustic expression of Loire valley cab franc! The berry fruit, minerals, herbal notes and pepper. Loads of complexity.”
—J. Marvin
“It’s like someone coming up to you with a bundle of dill and putting it in your face. It seems like a great pairing with our roast turkey sandwich, with a cranberry mayonnaise.” —R. Pierce
“It’s big and it’s meaty, but it’s got this candied violet thing on the finish. Chinon can be too serious. This one’s got some charm.” —R. Clement
Thierry Puzelat
2006 Vin de Table
La Tesnière Pineau d’Aunis $27
“I love French country wines. This might change your perception of any wine you’ve ever tasted before.” —A. Weil
“Pineau d’aunis is a deliciously rustic, food-friendly variety that deserves to be better known. Puzelat tames the grape’s tough tannins and brings out a plummy flavor that’s succulent and inviting.” —P. Liem
Rhône Family
Le Pigeolet en Provence
2006 Vin de Pays de Vaucluse $16
“This is one of those wines you just want to drink the second it’s open. It’s got really bright fruit, and good acidity.”
—E. Railsback
“This far outperforms its appellation. It’s a stand out for its restrained ripeness and easy, natural feel.” —T.Q. Thomas
“The lively acidity makes it delicious, savory and food friendly as well. I can see it with liver paté and cornichons.”
—N. Drummer
Château Mont-Redon
2005 Côtes du Rhône $15
“Spicy and wild. This is the best wine for the price in this tasting. This is great; it’s got balance, structure, flavor.” —J. Kosseff
“For leg of lamb, rosemary, garlic. Keep it simple.” —J. Marvin
Domaine du Nizas
2003 Coteaux du Languedoc $17
“It’s a nice entry into southern France, the wood gives you some familiarity, yet it’s all Rhône varietals in its expression.” —J. Marvin
“Particularly in the hot vintage of 2003, this stands out for its woodsy, earthy flavors, stony minerality and firm tannin. It’s a syrah with some restraint.” —T.Q. Thomas
“A wine for sausages, merguez, Basque sausage.” —E. Kelley
Yalumba
2006 Barossa Bush Vine Grenache $16
“There’s a nice violet floral aroma, but it’s a big wine, very sweet, very ripe. It’s like Châteauneuf-du-Pape in a super-hot year.” —R. Clement
“It’s ripe, but it’s got some acid; there’s a sort of sweet-tart thing with the sugar.” —R. Pierce
“Total chick wine; all those flowers and sweet raspberry fruit.” —M. Mendoza
d’Arenberg
2005 McLaren Vale
d’Arry’s Original Shiraz–Grenache $19
“This may have grenache but it’s much deeper and smokier than the Yalumba.” —R. Pierce
“And it’s got those big, dark chewy tannins that signals shiraz.” —M. Mendoza
“It’s a great, old-fashioned McLaren Vale red, the kind of classical, old-vine blend you don’t see around much anymore. It’s named for Chester Osborn’s father, who first made it in the 1960s. This 2005 is one of their best yet.” —J. Greene
“It’s really voluptuous, great with venison with porcini and bacon.” —C. Tanghe
Penfolds
2004 South Australia Bin 389
Cabernet–Shiraz $28
“It’s got big, black fruit, and lots of cassis and kir. It doesn’t have too much heat, and it’s got some cabernet to mellow it out. It’s an all-things-to-all people wine. It’s somewhat light on its feet, so you could drink it in the summer, but it’s also hearty enough for the winter.” —A. Weil
“It’s also a wine you can use to start a collection. This will age for fifteen years or more.” —J. Greene
Boomtown
2006 Columbia Valley Syrah $15
“It’s got that sexy layer of oak. I see lots of people liking it a lot. It’s not as dark and tannic as the Penfolds.” —E. Railsback
“I loved this wine. It has a lot of red berry fruit and it’s easy to drink.” —E. Moro
Gordon Brothers
2005 Columbia Valley Syrah $19
“It’s hearty, with a lot of black cherry and toffee flavor—a wine that’ll go with a steak or barbecue, anything with a bit of spice and strong flavors.” —S. Goldun
“This needs grilled red meat.” —J. Kosseff
“Or even Korean BBQ, the balance between the sweetness and the spice in both the food and the wine would work.” —E. Kelley
Qupé
2006 Central Coast Syrah $17
“One of my favorite value wines year in and out. Blackberry, peppery and clean. This is the first California wine I ever collected. The prices were—still are—low.” —J. Heber
“This works with deep south, saucy barbecue. Or a lot of the sesame-flavored pan-Asian dishes.” — J. Kosseff
Philippe Faury
2005 St-Joseph $28
“How clovey is that? You get all these white flowers too.” —R. Pierce
“I dig it. It’s just full-on syrah from sandy soils, very light, very pretty, and no oak at all. I’d serve it with cassoulet.”—E. Porto Carreiro
“Or a cold venison salad with rocket. This wine is a ‘Hepburn’—sleek and elegant. The color’s really beautiful, too. And look at this, it’s 12.8 percent alcohol.” —M. Mendoza
Parducci
2004 Mendocino
True Grit Petite Sirah $25
“This has those textbook chewy tannins of petite, that cocoa powder thing that happens with the tannins.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“It has just a terrific amount of potential; it will evolve so much over the years.”
—R. Clement
“This wine is all about John Wayne, western food. Well there, pilgrim….ribs off the grill, or ribs with some sweet, herbed rub, maybe a little vinegar in the barbecue sauce.”
—M. Mendoza
Mediterranean/
Iberian Varieties
Chakana
2006 Mendoza Bonarda $11
“There’s a delicate balance between something that’s fresh and good, and something that’s watery and poorly made. This is not at all watery. It’s light and it’s fresh.” —A. Weil
“If you don’t know bonarda, this Chakana is a great way to taste the red fruit flavors and vibrant acidity of the grape.” —P. Tapia
Quinta do Encontro
2004 Bairrada Q do E $9
“This is really good for a nine-dollar wine. It’s a fuller-bodied red with a bit of oak—lots of vanilla notes—but it’s easily approachable. It’s got light tannins, which make it easy to drink.”—E. Railsback
“The baga grape in Bairrada can often be unrelentingly tannic. Here it’s deliciously spicy, especially with grilled lamb.” —J. Greene
Dona Maria
2005 Alentejano VR $17
“This is fantastic. It’s got lots of sweet black fruit, leather and smoke, and earth. It’s powerful and the grippy tannins would be great with braised short ribs or some other braised meat dish. It’s definitely a food wine—it really has the acidity and the tannin structure for it.” —C. Tanghe
“It’s going to go with any sort of grilled steak, spiced meats.” —J. Heber
“Or with Portuguese cheeses, like Serra da Estrela.” —E. Kelley
Gordonzello Peregrino
2005 Tierras de León
Roble Prieto Picudo $18
“It really needs salty Iberian tapas.”
—J. Kosseff
“This Peregrino feels like a refreshing black cherry sorbet, precisely the way Prieto Picudo should taste.” —P. Tapia
Marqués de Cáceres
2001 Rioja Reserva $23
“It has such a soft, fleshy cherry fruit, such a lovely texture.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“A velvety wine, this is really delicious…it took seven years to make that texture.” —M. Mendoza
“It’s a wine for grilled lamb, or beef. That earthiness would pair with mushrooms, to go along with the meat.” —P.J. Comiskey
Ridge
2006 Sonoma County
Three Valleys Zinfandel $22
“It’s bright and tasty. I definitely don’t like a lot of zins; usually the color is so dense that you can’t even see through it. Here, the alcohol is low enough. It’s very refreshing for a zinfandel, not at all over the top. It has some carignan, which seems to lighten it up a bit.” —E. Railsback
Frog’s Leap
2006 Napa Valley Zinfandel $27
“A classic claret-style zin—this has a lot of acidity. It’s not jammy. What’s really cool about it is that comes from organic, dry-farmed vineyards, which is significant because Napa’s sort of irrigation-heavy. Zinfandel in particular seems to respond really well to dry farming. The other thing I love about this wine is that it’s 13.5 alcohol, which is less than most cabs, and this is a zin, which is supposed to be big and bad.” —W. Weber
Italian Reds
Librandi
2004 Cirò Duca San Felice Riserva $18
“I like that it’s fairly light in color, and it’s still rustic and hearty—this would go great with lamb with garlic and herbs. The wine can actually stand up to some pretty heavy foods.” —S. Goldun
“I order this almost every time I go to Pizzeria Delfina in San Francisco. We drank Cirò all summer when I lived in Rome, and when I have it here it just takes me back. The acidity and funky, earthy fruit flavors are totally Italian.” —W. Weber
Fattoria La Peschiera
2005 Morellino di Scansano $17
“The ideal combination of dried fruit, grainy tannins, acidity.” —J. Kosseff
“It’s a steal at the price, with all that structure and flavor, you could even lay it down.”
—J. Marvin
“Drink it with steak tagliatta, a rare steak grilled and tossed with salad.” —J. Heber
Melini
2005 Chianti Classico Isassi $15
“I get a lot of rose petal. Maybe dried rose petal. There’s some dried meat in there too…this is a palate wine. It’s delicious.” —R. Clement
“Serve it with duck with cherries.” —M. Mendoza
“Or it’s juicy enough to go with a capicola sandwich.” —R. Pierce
Le Macchiole
2005 Bolgheri Rosso $32
“Surprisingly accessible. I think it’s the best wine I’ve had today. Very New World style. But it’s so plush, so concentrated. I’d serve it with Kobe beef.” —M. Mendoza
“This estate grows one of the best cabernet francs in the world. The Bolgheri Rosso is one-third the price—a selection from the younger merlot and cab franc vines with a little syrah and sangiovese. It’s a way in to one of the great vineyards of Tuscany.”
—J. Greene
Abbazia di Novacella
2006 Alto Adige Lagrein $27
“This lagrein’s got a lot of concentration, but it doesn’t have the typical tough tannins. It has bright cherry fruit, and the acidity feels fresh in your mouth. Just classic.” —E. Railsback
“This has the freshness and the spice of a great red from the Italian Alps. The acidity makes it really versatile. It’s too light for steak, but with that acidity it needs something with a little bit of fat…like a grilled bone-in pork chop.” —W. Weber
Il Roncal
2005 Colli Orientali del Friuli
Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso $22
“The tart, bright cherry fruit makes your mouth pucker. It has a classic earthiness. I think it’s a wine to drink in a year or two, though. Not right away.” —E. Railsback
“I love refosco for its juicy fruitiness and freshness. This has considerable depth yet it doesn’t feel heavy, thanks to a lively balance of acidity and tannin.” —P. Liem
Poderi Luigi Einaudi
2006 Dolcetto di Dogliani $22
“This is a sexy wine. The nose isn’t so hard to figure out, and you just want to taste it.” — J. Kosseff
“Dogliani always has intense, structured dolcettos. This one is a bird wine: game hen, quail.” —J. Heber
Cantina del Pino
2005 Barbera d’Alba $32
“Barbera d’Alba will always be the younger brother of the bigger Piedmontese wines—a wine that speaks to youth and energy. Very primary with fruit while being playful and spicy. With slow-roasted baby back ribs—this would be my Old World alternative to zinfandel this summer.” —N. Daquip
“The acidity in barbera makes it one of my go-to red wines. You can drink it with almost anything. This one also shows a sense of minerality, a firmness and satisfying flavor.” —W. Weber
Damilano
2005 Nebbiolo d’Alba $21
“It’s an amazing wine for the money. The distance between Barolo and Alba is like the distance between Echo Park and Silver Lake, but the grape can still perform, hill to hill.” —R. Clement
“It’s so elegant and balanced. This is the best value of them all.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“It actually smells a little bit like Fernet. No, really, it's like Averna. It's killer.”
—M. Mendoza
Cabernet Family
Snoqualmie
2006 Columbia Valley Merlot $10
“This is a great little wine for ten dollars.” —R. Pierce
“It has some classic Washington merlot elements, a nice red berry lightness and succulent texture. There's a little creamy caramel wood flavor on the finish. It's easy to drink on its own.” —Patrick J. Comiskey
Santa Rita
2006 Rapel Valley Reserva Carmenère $14
“A textbook carmenère, this offers bell peppers and chocolatey flavors surrounded by a mellow, round texture.” —P. Tapia
“The vegetal nose reminds me of cabernet franc. It's a wine for the more adventurous. This brings in different flavors and textures and florals, more than just dark fruit and oak. It would work really well with cassoulet—pork sausage, beef tongue and duck confit.
Morandé
2005 Maipo Valley
Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon $17
“It's not so green that it's over the top and it doesn't have a big fat oak presence. The acidity gives it its brightness.” —E. Railsback
Bodegas Nieto Senetiner
2005 Mendoza Don Nicanor Malbec $17
“My marker for malbec is that it looks like syrah but it tastes like cabernet.” —J. Heber
“This is a voluptuous and ripe example of the grape. It seems it was made for Argentine asado.” —P. Tapia
Caro
2006 Mendoza Amancaya $20
“This really shows its Bordeaux roots, with a great texture.” —J. Kosseff
“This is a joint venture between Catena and Lafite–Rothschild in Bordeaux. Their top wine, “Caro,” is twice as expensive. Amancaya has more malbec in the blend, meant for early drinking.” —J. Greene
“For the price, this is really good, and it's showing better now than the Caro.”
—J. Heber
Tamarack
2006 Columbia Valley Firehouse Red $20
“This is a kitchen–sink blend from great vineyards all over the Columbia Valley—it's routinely one of the state's best bang–for–the–buck reds. The 2006 is juicy and rich, with a healthy slug of chocolatey oak to hold all that fruit together.” —P.J. Comiskey
“It smells like a caramel macchiato. I'd serve this with beef bourguignon.”
—E. Porto Carreiro
Chateau Ste. Michelle
2005 Columbia Valley Indian Wells Cabernet Sauvignon $19
“Foursquare and dark–fruited, this has black cherry and plum flavors grounded by firm tannin.” —P.J. Comiskey
“It fits in with a rib–eye steak.” —R. Clement
Cadence
2006 Columbia Valley Coda $25
“This has a lot of red fruit, like cranberry. It's a perfect prime rib wine. It's delicate and not at all in your face, like a lot of other Washington wines.” —A. Weil
“Ben Smith's wines are elegant and satisfying, and this is a great way to get to know his style.” —W. Weber
Chateau Phélan–Ségur
2004 St–Estèphe $25
“This is a vintage for people who are long on time and short on money.” —A. Weil
“Many of the '04s from St–Estèphe are sort of unforgiving as young wines. This one is easy to drink. It has a clean fruit quality, a lot of complexity, a lot of layers. It needs some cellaring to show off what it's got…a great counter to expensive California cabernets, and a fantastic value for Left Bank Bordeaux.” —S. Goldun
“I finished up some '89 Phélan two years ago, just when it was beginning to fade. Still working on a case of 2000. This 2004 will keep beautifully—one of the more elegant wines from St–Estèphe.” —J. Greene
Beringer
2005 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $27
“This is a big rich wine, made for a steak. At the price, it delivers a lot in terms of value.”
—J. Kosseff
“Wines from that area can easily be up to $230. This one has nice length and a beautiful nose. The mouthfeel is very velvety. It's a great value at $27.” —B. Gillespie
Pelton House
2005 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $45
“This is a new brand from a great vineyard farmed by Jess Jackson's family company. It's made by a Chilean woman, Marcia Monahan, who planted some carmenère on the property to blend in with this cabernet. A vineyard to watch.” —J. Greene
Sweet & Complex
Dr. Loosen
2006 Mosel Riesling Beerenauslese $25
“This is all from Bernkasteler Lay, harvested from early–developing botrytis. Don't be fooled by the price. This is serious BA, made by one of the masters of the style. It could be the greatest value in dessert wine currently on the market.” —P. Liem
“I'd drink it with baked apricot stuffed with mascarpone.” —R. Pierce
“For me, this is like pumpkin, some candied pumpkin dessert. Even a pumpkin soup.” —M. Mendoza
Royal Tokaji Wine Company
2003 Tokaji 5 Puttonyos $39
“Tokaji really have a niche. It's definitely not riesling, definitely not Sauternes. It's its own thing with a unique place on the menu.”
—R. Pierce
“Tokaji used to be considered one of the finest wines in the world; this wine ranks up there, without the price tag to match. It's opulent, with golden apricot, orange, beeswax and smoke flavors, with vibrant acidity that wraps it tightly and will keep this going for at least another twenty years.” —T.Q. Thomas
“I'm getting such a hit of orange. A wine for orange mousse.” —M. Mendoza
Loel
Cyprus Commandaria $12
“It's got a lot of salty, nutty characteristics. This would go well with aged Manchego, and would make a nice aperitif.”
—E. Railsback
“Where else in the world can you find a satin–textured wine laden with figgy fruit, spice and molasses notes for $12? A glass is all you need for dessert, and a little goes a long way.” —T.Q. Thomas
Quinta do Vesuvio
2005 Porto $63
“It tastes really great this young, but I'd keep it for twenty years.” —J. Kosseff
“And it will easily live that long. Vesuvio is only ever made as a single–quinta Port; it's one of the Symington family's best properties.” —J. Greene
“For a young Port like this, pairing it with a Roquefort is perfect. There's a wonderful balance.” —E. Kelley
Croft
2005 Porto Quinta da Roeda $47
“It has a classic profile and needs some age. An excellent value in a Vintage Port. Some of the sweeter wines tend to be more exuberant; this one's a little drier.” —S. Goldun
“The Taylor Fonseca group purchased Roeda in 2001 and the work they've done on the vineyard is beginning to show in this 2005. It's a legendary site, and will likely regain its reputation as a top vineyard in the years to come. Which makes it a great buy at the moment.” —J. Greene
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2005 Nemea St. George $13
“It really has a nose like pinot noir.” —R. Pierce
“It really does; such a clean, silky palate, with fresh acidity.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“That’s agiorgitiko’s plummy flavors and the scent of Nemea’s sun-warmed, wild-oregano-filled slopes. I’d serve it with moussaka or grilled lamb with dark olives.” —T.Q. Thomas
MacMurray Ranch
2005 Central Coast Pinot Noir $20
“With some California pinots, you can’t even tell if it’s syrah or pinot. This is definitely pinot.” —A. Weil
“It’s a very easy, everyday wine and shows its varietal very well, especially at this price point.” —T. Snyder
“You could serve it with roast chicken or duck, but I’d probably prefer to drink this on its own, before dinner on a warm summer night outside.” —Chris Tanghe
A to Z
2006 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir $20
“This is a little earthier [than MacMurray]. It has that rainy, forest floor feel to it, an accurate representation of Oregon pinot. I can see it with chicken with mushrooms in a cream sauce. Mushroom anything, salmon anything, game bird anything…it would also be fantastic with a carbonara.”
—A. Weil
Cristom
2006 Willamette Valley
Mt. Jefferson Cuvée Pinot Noir $30
“You stick your nose in there; it’s nothing but pinot noir.” —J. Heber
“It’s entry-level Oregon pinot noir, balanced and flavorful.” —J. Marvin
“It’s the thinking man’s cabernet.”—E. Kelley
Handley
2006 Mendocino County Pinot Noir $25
“Mendocino Pinot Noir has this beautiful wild cherry and black tea aroma. I’d serve this a little cool with duck confit and sauteed morel mushrooms.” —N. Daquip
“Milla Handley’s pinots are fresh and unpretentious. This one has the cool scent of the Mendocino coast.” —J. Greene
Calera
2006 Mount Harlan Cuvée Pinot Noir $30
“This is so silky, and meaty at the same time. It has what I like to call my goatee of tannin (a shadow, not a full-on beard).” —M. Mendoza
“There’s such blue fruit to this wine.”
—R. Clement
“It’s got a lot more minerals than I’m used to in California pinots, that’s for sure. And tarter fruits—red currants, Rainer cherries, raspberries. It’s a great wine for roast duck or quail.” — C. Tanghe
Domaine de la Noblaie
2004 Chinon
Les Chiens-Chiens Rouge $15
“Talk about a pure rustic expression of Loire valley cab franc! The berry fruit, minerals, herbal notes and pepper. Loads of complexity.”
—J. Marvin
“It’s like someone coming up to you with a bundle of dill and putting it in your face. It seems like a great pairing with our roast turkey sandwich, with a cranberry mayonnaise.” —R. Pierce
“It’s big and it’s meaty, but it’s got this candied violet thing on the finish. Chinon can be too serious. This one’s got some charm.” —R. Clement
Thierry Puzelat
2006 Vin de Table
La Tesnière Pineau d’Aunis $27
“I love French country wines. This might change your perception of any wine you’ve ever tasted before.” —A. Weil
“Pineau d’aunis is a deliciously rustic, food-friendly variety that deserves to be better known. Puzelat tames the grape’s tough tannins and brings out a plummy flavor that’s succulent and inviting.” —P. Liem
Rhône Family
Le Pigeolet en Provence
2006 Vin de Pays de Vaucluse $16
“This is one of those wines you just want to drink the second it’s open. It’s got really bright fruit, and good acidity.”
—E. Railsback
“This far outperforms its appellation. It’s a stand out for its restrained ripeness and easy, natural feel.” —T.Q. Thomas
“The lively acidity makes it delicious, savory and food friendly as well. I can see it with liver paté and cornichons.”
—N. Drummer
Château Mont-Redon
2005 Côtes du Rhône $15
“Spicy and wild. This is the best wine for the price in this tasting. This is great; it’s got balance, structure, flavor.” —J. Kosseff
“For leg of lamb, rosemary, garlic. Keep it simple.” —J. Marvin
Domaine du Nizas
2003 Coteaux du Languedoc $17
“It’s a nice entry into southern France, the wood gives you some familiarity, yet it’s all Rhône varietals in its expression.” —J. Marvin
“Particularly in the hot vintage of 2003, this stands out for its woodsy, earthy flavors, stony minerality and firm tannin. It’s a syrah with some restraint.” —T.Q. Thomas
“A wine for sausages, merguez, Basque sausage.” —E. Kelley
Yalumba
2006 Barossa Bush Vine Grenache $16
“There’s a nice violet floral aroma, but it’s a big wine, very sweet, very ripe. It’s like Châteauneuf-du-Pape in a super-hot year.” —R. Clement
“It’s ripe, but it’s got some acid; there’s a sort of sweet-tart thing with the sugar.” —R. Pierce
“Total chick wine; all those flowers and sweet raspberry fruit.” —M. Mendoza
d’Arenberg
2005 McLaren Vale
d’Arry’s Original Shiraz–Grenache $19
“This may have grenache but it’s much deeper and smokier than the Yalumba.” —R. Pierce
“And it’s got those big, dark chewy tannins that signals shiraz.” —M. Mendoza
“It’s a great, old-fashioned McLaren Vale red, the kind of classical, old-vine blend you don’t see around much anymore. It’s named for Chester Osborn’s father, who first made it in the 1960s. This 2005 is one of their best yet.” —J. Greene
“It’s really voluptuous, great with venison with porcini and bacon.” —C. Tanghe
Penfolds
2004 South Australia Bin 389
Cabernet–Shiraz $28
“It’s got big, black fruit, and lots of cassis and kir. It doesn’t have too much heat, and it’s got some cabernet to mellow it out. It’s an all-things-to-all people wine. It’s somewhat light on its feet, so you could drink it in the summer, but it’s also hearty enough for the winter.” —A. Weil
“It’s also a wine you can use to start a collection. This will age for fifteen years or more.” —J. Greene
Boomtown
2006 Columbia Valley Syrah $15
“It’s got that sexy layer of oak. I see lots of people liking it a lot. It’s not as dark and tannic as the Penfolds.” —E. Railsback
“I loved this wine. It has a lot of red berry fruit and it’s easy to drink.” —E. Moro
Gordon Brothers
2005 Columbia Valley Syrah $19
“It’s hearty, with a lot of black cherry and toffee flavor—a wine that’ll go with a steak or barbecue, anything with a bit of spice and strong flavors.” —S. Goldun
“This needs grilled red meat.” —J. Kosseff
“Or even Korean BBQ, the balance between the sweetness and the spice in both the food and the wine would work.” —E. Kelley
Qupé
2006 Central Coast Syrah $17
“One of my favorite value wines year in and out. Blackberry, peppery and clean. This is the first California wine I ever collected. The prices were—still are—low.” —J. Heber
“This works with deep south, saucy barbecue. Or a lot of the sesame-flavored pan-Asian dishes.” — J. Kosseff
Philippe Faury
2005 St-Joseph $28
“How clovey is that? You get all these white flowers too.” —R. Pierce
“I dig it. It’s just full-on syrah from sandy soils, very light, very pretty, and no oak at all. I’d serve it with cassoulet.”—E. Porto Carreiro
“Or a cold venison salad with rocket. This wine is a ‘Hepburn’—sleek and elegant. The color’s really beautiful, too. And look at this, it’s 12.8 percent alcohol.” —M. Mendoza
Parducci
2004 Mendocino
True Grit Petite Sirah $25
“This has those textbook chewy tannins of petite, that cocoa powder thing that happens with the tannins.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“It has just a terrific amount of potential; it will evolve so much over the years.”
—R. Clement
“This wine is all about John Wayne, western food. Well there, pilgrim….ribs off the grill, or ribs with some sweet, herbed rub, maybe a little vinegar in the barbecue sauce.”
—M. Mendoza
Mediterranean/
Iberian Varieties
Chakana
2006 Mendoza Bonarda $11
“There’s a delicate balance between something that’s fresh and good, and something that’s watery and poorly made. This is not at all watery. It’s light and it’s fresh.” —A. Weil
“If you don’t know bonarda, this Chakana is a great way to taste the red fruit flavors and vibrant acidity of the grape.” —P. Tapia
Quinta do Encontro
2004 Bairrada Q do E $9
“This is really good for a nine-dollar wine. It’s a fuller-bodied red with a bit of oak—lots of vanilla notes—but it’s easily approachable. It’s got light tannins, which make it easy to drink.”—E. Railsback
“The baga grape in Bairrada can often be unrelentingly tannic. Here it’s deliciously spicy, especially with grilled lamb.” —J. Greene
Dona Maria
2005 Alentejano VR $17
“This is fantastic. It’s got lots of sweet black fruit, leather and smoke, and earth. It’s powerful and the grippy tannins would be great with braised short ribs or some other braised meat dish. It’s definitely a food wine—it really has the acidity and the tannin structure for it.” —C. Tanghe
“It’s going to go with any sort of grilled steak, spiced meats.” —J. Heber
“Or with Portuguese cheeses, like Serra da Estrela.” —E. Kelley
Gordonzello Peregrino
2005 Tierras de León
Roble Prieto Picudo $18
“It really needs salty Iberian tapas.”
—J. Kosseff
“This Peregrino feels like a refreshing black cherry sorbet, precisely the way Prieto Picudo should taste.” —P. Tapia
Marqués de Cáceres
2001 Rioja Reserva $23
“It has such a soft, fleshy cherry fruit, such a lovely texture.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“A velvety wine, this is really delicious…it took seven years to make that texture.” —M. Mendoza
“It’s a wine for grilled lamb, or beef. That earthiness would pair with mushrooms, to go along with the meat.” —P.J. Comiskey
Ridge
2006 Sonoma County
Three Valleys Zinfandel $22
“It’s bright and tasty. I definitely don’t like a lot of zins; usually the color is so dense that you can’t even see through it. Here, the alcohol is low enough. It’s very refreshing for a zinfandel, not at all over the top. It has some carignan, which seems to lighten it up a bit.” —E. Railsback
Frog’s Leap
2006 Napa Valley Zinfandel $27
“A classic claret-style zin—this has a lot of acidity. It’s not jammy. What’s really cool about it is that comes from organic, dry-farmed vineyards, which is significant because Napa’s sort of irrigation-heavy. Zinfandel in particular seems to respond really well to dry farming. The other thing I love about this wine is that it’s 13.5 alcohol, which is less than most cabs, and this is a zin, which is supposed to be big and bad.” —W. Weber
Italian Reds
Librandi
2004 Cirò Duca San Felice Riserva $18
“I like that it’s fairly light in color, and it’s still rustic and hearty—this would go great with lamb with garlic and herbs. The wine can actually stand up to some pretty heavy foods.” —S. Goldun
“I order this almost every time I go to Pizzeria Delfina in San Francisco. We drank Cirò all summer when I lived in Rome, and when I have it here it just takes me back. The acidity and funky, earthy fruit flavors are totally Italian.” —W. Weber
Fattoria La Peschiera
2005 Morellino di Scansano $17
“The ideal combination of dried fruit, grainy tannins, acidity.” —J. Kosseff
“It’s a steal at the price, with all that structure and flavor, you could even lay it down.”
—J. Marvin
“Drink it with steak tagliatta, a rare steak grilled and tossed with salad.” —J. Heber
Melini
2005 Chianti Classico Isassi $15
“I get a lot of rose petal. Maybe dried rose petal. There’s some dried meat in there too…this is a palate wine. It’s delicious.” —R. Clement
“Serve it with duck with cherries.” —M. Mendoza
“Or it’s juicy enough to go with a capicola sandwich.” —R. Pierce
Le Macchiole
2005 Bolgheri Rosso $32
“Surprisingly accessible. I think it’s the best wine I’ve had today. Very New World style. But it’s so plush, so concentrated. I’d serve it with Kobe beef.” —M. Mendoza
“This estate grows one of the best cabernet francs in the world. The Bolgheri Rosso is one-third the price—a selection from the younger merlot and cab franc vines with a little syrah and sangiovese. It’s a way in to one of the great vineyards of Tuscany.”
—J. Greene
Abbazia di Novacella
2006 Alto Adige Lagrein $27
“This lagrein’s got a lot of concentration, but it doesn’t have the typical tough tannins. It has bright cherry fruit, and the acidity feels fresh in your mouth. Just classic.” —E. Railsback
“This has the freshness and the spice of a great red from the Italian Alps. The acidity makes it really versatile. It’s too light for steak, but with that acidity it needs something with a little bit of fat…like a grilled bone-in pork chop.” —W. Weber
Il Roncal
2005 Colli Orientali del Friuli
Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso $22
“The tart, bright cherry fruit makes your mouth pucker. It has a classic earthiness. I think it’s a wine to drink in a year or two, though. Not right away.” —E. Railsback
“I love refosco for its juicy fruitiness and freshness. This has considerable depth yet it doesn’t feel heavy, thanks to a lively balance of acidity and tannin.” —P. Liem
Poderi Luigi Einaudi
2006 Dolcetto di Dogliani $22
“This is a sexy wine. The nose isn’t so hard to figure out, and you just want to taste it.” — J. Kosseff
“Dogliani always has intense, structured dolcettos. This one is a bird wine: game hen, quail.” —J. Heber
Cantina del Pino
2005 Barbera d’Alba $32
“Barbera d’Alba will always be the younger brother of the bigger Piedmontese wines—a wine that speaks to youth and energy. Very primary with fruit while being playful and spicy. With slow-roasted baby back ribs—this would be my Old World alternative to zinfandel this summer.” —N. Daquip
“The acidity in barbera makes it one of my go-to red wines. You can drink it with almost anything. This one also shows a sense of minerality, a firmness and satisfying flavor.” —W. Weber
Damilano
2005 Nebbiolo d’Alba $21
“It’s an amazing wine for the money. The distance between Barolo and Alba is like the distance between Echo Park and Silver Lake, but the grape can still perform, hill to hill.” —R. Clement
“It’s so elegant and balanced. This is the best value of them all.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“It actually smells a little bit like Fernet. No, really, it's like Averna. It's killer.”
—M. Mendoza
Cabernet Family
Snoqualmie
2006 Columbia Valley Merlot $10
“This is a great little wine for ten dollars.” —R. Pierce
“It has some classic Washington merlot elements, a nice red berry lightness and succulent texture. There's a little creamy caramel wood flavor on the finish. It's easy to drink on its own.” —Patrick J. Comiskey
Santa Rita
2006 Rapel Valley Reserva Carmenère $14
“A textbook carmenère, this offers bell peppers and chocolatey flavors surrounded by a mellow, round texture.” —P. Tapia
“The vegetal nose reminds me of cabernet franc. It's a wine for the more adventurous. This brings in different flavors and textures and florals, more than just dark fruit and oak. It would work really well with cassoulet—pork sausage, beef tongue and duck confit.
Morandé
2005 Maipo Valley
Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon $17
“It's not so green that it's over the top and it doesn't have a big fat oak presence. The acidity gives it its brightness.” —E. Railsback
Bodegas Nieto Senetiner
2005 Mendoza Don Nicanor Malbec $17
“My marker for malbec is that it looks like syrah but it tastes like cabernet.” —J. Heber
“This is a voluptuous and ripe example of the grape. It seems it was made for Argentine asado.” —P. Tapia
Caro
2006 Mendoza Amancaya $20
“This really shows its Bordeaux roots, with a great texture.” —J. Kosseff
“This is a joint venture between Catena and Lafite–Rothschild in Bordeaux. Their top wine, “Caro,” is twice as expensive. Amancaya has more malbec in the blend, meant for early drinking.” —J. Greene
“For the price, this is really good, and it's showing better now than the Caro.”
—J. Heber
Tamarack
2006 Columbia Valley Firehouse Red $20
“This is a kitchen–sink blend from great vineyards all over the Columbia Valley—it's routinely one of the state's best bang–for–the–buck reds. The 2006 is juicy and rich, with a healthy slug of chocolatey oak to hold all that fruit together.” —P.J. Comiskey
“It smells like a caramel macchiato. I'd serve this with beef bourguignon.”
—E. Porto Carreiro
Chateau Ste. Michelle
2005 Columbia Valley Indian Wells Cabernet Sauvignon $19
“Foursquare and dark–fruited, this has black cherry and plum flavors grounded by firm tannin.” —P.J. Comiskey
“It fits in with a rib–eye steak.” —R. Clement
Cadence
2006 Columbia Valley Coda $25
“This has a lot of red fruit, like cranberry. It's a perfect prime rib wine. It's delicate and not at all in your face, like a lot of other Washington wines.” —A. Weil
“Ben Smith's wines are elegant and satisfying, and this is a great way to get to know his style.” —W. Weber
Chateau Phélan–Ségur
2004 St–Estèphe $25
“This is a vintage for people who are long on time and short on money.” —A. Weil
“Many of the '04s from St–Estèphe are sort of unforgiving as young wines. This one is easy to drink. It has a clean fruit quality, a lot of complexity, a lot of layers. It needs some cellaring to show off what it's got…a great counter to expensive California cabernets, and a fantastic value for Left Bank Bordeaux.” —S. Goldun
“I finished up some '89 Phélan two years ago, just when it was beginning to fade. Still working on a case of 2000. This 2004 will keep beautifully—one of the more elegant wines from St–Estèphe.” —J. Greene
Beringer
2005 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $27
“This is a big rich wine, made for a steak. At the price, it delivers a lot in terms of value.”
—J. Kosseff
“Wines from that area can easily be up to $230. This one has nice length and a beautiful nose. The mouthfeel is very velvety. It's a great value at $27.” —B. Gillespie
Pelton House
2005 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $45
“This is a new brand from a great vineyard farmed by Jess Jackson's family company. It's made by a Chilean woman, Marcia Monahan, who planted some carmenère on the property to blend in with this cabernet. A vineyard to watch.” —J. Greene
Sweet & Complex
Dr. Loosen
2006 Mosel Riesling Beerenauslese $25
“This is all from Bernkasteler Lay, harvested from early–developing botrytis. Don't be fooled by the price. This is serious BA, made by one of the masters of the style. It could be the greatest value in dessert wine currently on the market.” —P. Liem
“I'd drink it with baked apricot stuffed with mascarpone.” —R. Pierce
“For me, this is like pumpkin, some candied pumpkin dessert. Even a pumpkin soup.” —M. Mendoza
Royal Tokaji Wine Company
2003 Tokaji 5 Puttonyos $39
“Tokaji really have a niche. It's definitely not riesling, definitely not Sauternes. It's its own thing with a unique place on the menu.”
—R. Pierce
“Tokaji used to be considered one of the finest wines in the world; this wine ranks up there, without the price tag to match. It's opulent, with golden apricot, orange, beeswax and smoke flavors, with vibrant acidity that wraps it tightly and will keep this going for at least another twenty years.” —T.Q. Thomas
“I'm getting such a hit of orange. A wine for orange mousse.” —M. Mendoza
Loel
Cyprus Commandaria $12
“It's got a lot of salty, nutty characteristics. This would go well with aged Manchego, and would make a nice aperitif.”
—E. Railsback
“Where else in the world can you find a satin–textured wine laden with figgy fruit, spice and molasses notes for $12? A glass is all you need for dessert, and a little goes a long way.” —T.Q. Thomas
Quinta do Vesuvio
2005 Porto $63
“It tastes really great this young, but I'd keep it for twenty years.” —J. Kosseff
“And it will easily live that long. Vesuvio is only ever made as a single–quinta Port; it's one of the Symington family's best properties.” —J. Greene
“For a young Port like this, pairing it with a Roquefort is perfect. There's a wonderful balance.” —E. Kelley
Croft
2005 Porto Quinta da Roeda $47
“It has a classic profile and needs some age. An excellent value in a Vintage Port. Some of the sweeter wines tend to be more exuberant; this one's a little drier.” —S. Goldun
“The Taylor Fonseca group purchased Roeda in 2001 and the work they've done on the vineyard is beginning to show in this 2005. It's a legendary site, and will likely regain its reputation as a top vineyard in the years to come. Which makes it a great buy at the moment.” —J. Greene
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2006 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir $20
“This is a little earthier [than MacMurray]. It has that rainy, forest floor feel to it, an accurate representation of Oregon pinot. I can see it with chicken with mushrooms in a cream sauce. Mushroom anything, salmon anything, game bird anything…it would also be fantastic with a carbonara.” —A. Weil
Cristom
2006 Willamette Valley
Mt. Jefferson Cuvée Pinot Noir $30
“You stick your nose in there; it’s nothing but pinot noir.” —J. Heber
“It’s entry-level Oregon pinot noir, balanced and flavorful.” —J. Marvin
“It’s the thinking man’s cabernet.”—E. Kelley
Handley
2006 Mendocino County Pinot Noir $25
“Mendocino Pinot Noir has this beautiful wild cherry and black tea aroma. I’d serve this a little cool with duck confit and sauteed morel mushrooms.” —N. Daquip
“Milla Handley’s pinots are fresh and unpretentious. This one has the cool scent of the Mendocino coast.” —J. Greene
Calera
2006 Mount Harlan Cuvée Pinot Noir $30
“This is so silky, and meaty at the same time. It has what I like to call my goatee of tannin (a shadow, not a full-on beard).” —M. Mendoza
“There’s such blue fruit to this wine.”
—R. Clement
“It’s got a lot more minerals than I’m used to in California pinots, that’s for sure. And tarter fruits—red currants, Rainer cherries, raspberries. It’s a great wine for roast duck or quail.” — C. Tanghe
Domaine de la Noblaie
2004 Chinon
Les Chiens-Chiens Rouge $15
“Talk about a pure rustic expression of Loire valley cab franc! The berry fruit, minerals, herbal notes and pepper. Loads of complexity.”
—J. Marvin
“It’s like someone coming up to you with a bundle of dill and putting it in your face. It seems like a great pairing with our roast turkey sandwich, with a cranberry mayonnaise.” —R. Pierce
“It’s big and it’s meaty, but it’s got this candied violet thing on the finish. Chinon can be too serious. This one’s got some charm.” —R. Clement
Thierry Puzelat
2006 Vin de Table
La Tesnière Pineau d’Aunis $27
“I love French country wines. This might change your perception of any wine you’ve ever tasted before.” —A. Weil
“Pineau d’aunis is a deliciously rustic, food-friendly variety that deserves to be better known. Puzelat tames the grape’s tough tannins and brings out a plummy flavor that’s succulent and inviting.” —P. Liem
Rhône Family
Le Pigeolet en Provence
2006 Vin de Pays de Vaucluse $16
“This is one of those wines you just want to drink the second it’s open. It’s got really bright fruit, and good acidity.”
—E. Railsback
“This far outperforms its appellation. It’s a stand out for its restrained ripeness and easy, natural feel.” —T.Q. Thomas
“The lively acidity makes it delicious, savory and food friendly as well. I can see it with liver paté and cornichons.”
—N. Drummer
Château Mont-Redon
2005 Côtes du Rhône $15
“Spicy and wild. This is the best wine for the price in this tasting. This is great; it’s got balance, structure, flavor.” —J. Kosseff
“For leg of lamb, rosemary, garlic. Keep it simple.” —J. Marvin
Domaine du Nizas
2003 Coteaux du Languedoc $17
“It’s a nice entry into southern France, the wood gives you some familiarity, yet it’s all Rhône varietals in its expression.” —J. Marvin
“Particularly in the hot vintage of 2003, this stands out for its woodsy, earthy flavors, stony minerality and firm tannin. It’s a syrah with some restraint.” —T.Q. Thomas
“A wine for sausages, merguez, Basque sausage.” —E. Kelley
Yalumba
2006 Barossa Bush Vine Grenache $16
“There’s a nice violet floral aroma, but it’s a big wine, very sweet, very ripe. It’s like Châteauneuf-du-Pape in a super-hot year.” —R. Clement
“It’s ripe, but it’s got some acid; there’s a sort of sweet-tart thing with the sugar.” —R. Pierce
“Total chick wine; all those flowers and sweet raspberry fruit.” —M. Mendoza
d’Arenberg
2005 McLaren Vale
d’Arry’s Original Shiraz–Grenache $19
“This may have grenache but it’s much deeper and smokier than the Yalumba.” —R. Pierce
“And it’s got those big, dark chewy tannins that signals shiraz.” —M. Mendoza
“It’s a great, old-fashioned McLaren Vale red, the kind of classical, old-vine blend you don’t see around much anymore. It’s named for Chester Osborn’s father, who first made it in the 1960s. This 2005 is one of their best yet.” —J. Greene
“It’s really voluptuous, great with venison with porcini and bacon.” —C. Tanghe
Penfolds
2004 South Australia Bin 389
Cabernet–Shiraz $28
“It’s got big, black fruit, and lots of cassis and kir. It doesn’t have too much heat, and it’s got some cabernet to mellow it out. It’s an all-things-to-all people wine. It’s somewhat light on its feet, so you could drink it in the summer, but it’s also hearty enough for the winter.” —A. Weil
“It’s also a wine you can use to start a collection. This will age for fifteen years or more.” —J. Greene
Boomtown
2006 Columbia Valley Syrah $15
“It’s got that sexy layer of oak. I see lots of people liking it a lot. It’s not as dark and tannic as the Penfolds.” —E. Railsback
“I loved this wine. It has a lot of red berry fruit and it’s easy to drink.” —E. Moro
Gordon Brothers
2005 Columbia Valley Syrah $19
“It’s hearty, with a lot of black cherry and toffee flavor—a wine that’ll go with a steak or barbecue, anything with a bit of spice and strong flavors.” —S. Goldun
“This needs grilled red meat.” —J. Kosseff
“Or even Korean BBQ, the balance between the sweetness and the spice in both the food and the wine would work.” —E. Kelley
Qupé
2006 Central Coast Syrah $17
“One of my favorite value wines year in and out. Blackberry, peppery and clean. This is the first California wine I ever collected. The prices were—still are—low.” —J. Heber
“This works with deep south, saucy barbecue. Or a lot of the sesame-flavored pan-Asian dishes.” — J. Kosseff
Philippe Faury
2005 St-Joseph $28
“How clovey is that? You get all these white flowers too.” —R. Pierce
“I dig it. It’s just full-on syrah from sandy soils, very light, very pretty, and no oak at all. I’d serve it with cassoulet.”—E. Porto Carreiro
“Or a cold venison salad with rocket. This wine is a ‘Hepburn’—sleek and elegant. The color’s really beautiful, too. And look at this, it’s 12.8 percent alcohol.” —M. Mendoza
Parducci
2004 Mendocino
True Grit Petite Sirah $25
“This has those textbook chewy tannins of petite, that cocoa powder thing that happens with the tannins.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“It has just a terrific amount of potential; it will evolve so much over the years.”
—R. Clement
“This wine is all about John Wayne, western food. Well there, pilgrim….ribs off the grill, or ribs with some sweet, herbed rub, maybe a little vinegar in the barbecue sauce.”
—M. Mendoza
Mediterranean/
Iberian Varieties
Chakana
2006 Mendoza Bonarda $11
“There’s a delicate balance between something that’s fresh and good, and something that’s watery and poorly made. This is not at all watery. It’s light and it’s fresh.” —A. Weil
“If you don’t know bonarda, this Chakana is a great way to taste the red fruit flavors and vibrant acidity of the grape.” —P. Tapia
Quinta do Encontro
2004 Bairrada Q do E $9
“This is really good for a nine-dollar wine. It’s a fuller-bodied red with a bit of oak—lots of vanilla notes—but it’s easily approachable. It’s got light tannins, which make it easy to drink.”—E. Railsback
“The baga grape in Bairrada can often be unrelentingly tannic. Here it’s deliciously spicy, especially with grilled lamb.” —J. Greene
Dona Maria
2005 Alentejano VR $17
“This is fantastic. It’s got lots of sweet black fruit, leather and smoke, and earth. It’s powerful and the grippy tannins would be great with braised short ribs or some other braised meat dish. It’s definitely a food wine—it really has the acidity and the tannin structure for it.” —C. Tanghe
“It’s going to go with any sort of grilled steak, spiced meats.” —J. Heber
“Or with Portuguese cheeses, like Serra da Estrela.” —E. Kelley
Gordonzello Peregrino
2005 Tierras de León
Roble Prieto Picudo $18
“It really needs salty Iberian tapas.”
—J. Kosseff
“This Peregrino feels like a refreshing black cherry sorbet, precisely the way Prieto Picudo should taste.” —P. Tapia
Marqués de Cáceres
2001 Rioja Reserva $23
“It has such a soft, fleshy cherry fruit, such a lovely texture.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“A velvety wine, this is really delicious…it took seven years to make that texture.” —M. Mendoza
“It’s a wine for grilled lamb, or beef. That earthiness would pair with mushrooms, to go along with the meat.” —P.J. Comiskey
Ridge
2006 Sonoma County
Three Valleys Zinfandel $22
“It’s bright and tasty. I definitely don’t like a lot of zins; usually the color is so dense that you can’t even see through it. Here, the alcohol is low enough. It’s very refreshing for a zinfandel, not at all over the top. It has some carignan, which seems to lighten it up a bit.” —E. Railsback
Frog’s Leap
2006 Napa Valley Zinfandel $27
“A classic claret-style zin—this has a lot of acidity. It’s not jammy. What’s really cool about it is that comes from organic, dry-farmed vineyards, which is significant because Napa’s sort of irrigation-heavy. Zinfandel in particular seems to respond really well to dry farming. The other thing I love about this wine is that it’s 13.5 alcohol, which is less than most cabs, and this is a zin, which is supposed to be big and bad.” —W. Weber
Italian Reds
Librandi
2004 Cirò Duca San Felice Riserva $18
“I like that it’s fairly light in color, and it’s still rustic and hearty—this would go great with lamb with garlic and herbs. The wine can actually stand up to some pretty heavy foods.” —S. Goldun
“I order this almost every time I go to Pizzeria Delfina in San Francisco. We drank Cirò all summer when I lived in Rome, and when I have it here it just takes me back. The acidity and funky, earthy fruit flavors are totally Italian.” —W. Weber
Fattoria La Peschiera
2005 Morellino di Scansano $17
“The ideal combination of dried fruit, grainy tannins, acidity.” —J. Kosseff
“It’s a steal at the price, with all that structure and flavor, you could even lay it down.”
—J. Marvin
“Drink it with steak tagliatta, a rare steak grilled and tossed with salad.” —J. Heber
Melini
2005 Chianti Classico Isassi $15
“I get a lot of rose petal. Maybe dried rose petal. There’s some dried meat in there too…this is a palate wine. It’s delicious.” —R. Clement
“Serve it with duck with cherries.” —M. Mendoza
“Or it’s juicy enough to go with a capicola sandwich.” —R. Pierce
Le Macchiole
2005 Bolgheri Rosso $32
“Surprisingly accessible. I think it’s the best wine I’ve had today. Very New World style. But it’s so plush, so concentrated. I’d serve it with Kobe beef.” —M. Mendoza
“This estate grows one of the best cabernet francs in the world. The Bolgheri Rosso is one-third the price—a selection from the younger merlot and cab franc vines with a little syrah and sangiovese. It’s a way in to one of the great vineyards of Tuscany.”
—J. Greene
Abbazia di Novacella
2006 Alto Adige Lagrein $27
“This lagrein’s got a lot of concentration, but it doesn’t have the typical tough tannins. It has bright cherry fruit, and the acidity feels fresh in your mouth. Just classic.” —E. Railsback
“This has the freshness and the spice of a great red from the Italian Alps. The acidity makes it really versatile. It’s too light for steak, but with that acidity it needs something with a little bit of fat…like a grilled bone-in pork chop.” —W. Weber
Il Roncal
2005 Colli Orientali del Friuli
Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso $22
“The tart, bright cherry fruit makes your mouth pucker. It has a classic earthiness. I think it’s a wine to drink in a year or two, though. Not right away.” —E. Railsback
“I love refosco for its juicy fruitiness and freshness. This has considerable depth yet it doesn’t feel heavy, thanks to a lively balance of acidity and tannin.” —P. Liem
Poderi Luigi Einaudi
2006 Dolcetto di Dogliani $22
“This is a sexy wine. The nose isn’t so hard to figure out, and you just want to taste it.” — J. Kosseff
“Dogliani always has intense, structured dolcettos. This one is a bird wine: game hen, quail.” —J. Heber
Cantina del Pino
2005 Barbera d’Alba $32
“Barbera d’Alba will always be the younger brother of the bigger Piedmontese wines—a wine that speaks to youth and energy. Very primary with fruit while being playful and spicy. With slow-roasted baby back ribs—this would be my Old World alternative to zinfandel this summer.” —N. Daquip
“The acidity in barbera makes it one of my go-to red wines. You can drink it with almost anything. This one also shows a sense of minerality, a firmness and satisfying flavor.” —W. Weber
Damilano
2005 Nebbiolo d’Alba $21
“It’s an amazing wine for the money. The distance between Barolo and Alba is like the distance between Echo Park and Silver Lake, but the grape can still perform, hill to hill.” —R. Clement
“It’s so elegant and balanced. This is the best value of them all.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“It actually smells a little bit like Fernet. No, really, it's like Averna. It's killer.”
—M. Mendoza
Cabernet Family
Snoqualmie
2006 Columbia Valley Merlot $10
“This is a great little wine for ten dollars.” —R. Pierce
“It has some classic Washington merlot elements, a nice red berry lightness and succulent texture. There's a little creamy caramel wood flavor on the finish. It's easy to drink on its own.” —Patrick J. Comiskey
Santa Rita
2006 Rapel Valley Reserva Carmenère $14
“A textbook carmenère, this offers bell peppers and chocolatey flavors surrounded by a mellow, round texture.” —P. Tapia
“The vegetal nose reminds me of cabernet franc. It's a wine for the more adventurous. This brings in different flavors and textures and florals, more than just dark fruit and oak. It would work really well with cassoulet—pork sausage, beef tongue and duck confit.
Morandé
2005 Maipo Valley
Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon $17
“It's not so green that it's over the top and it doesn't have a big fat oak presence. The acidity gives it its brightness.” —E. Railsback
Bodegas Nieto Senetiner
2005 Mendoza Don Nicanor Malbec $17
“My marker for malbec is that it looks like syrah but it tastes like cabernet.” —J. Heber
“This is a voluptuous and ripe example of the grape. It seems it was made for Argentine asado.” —P. Tapia
Caro
2006 Mendoza Amancaya $20
“This really shows its Bordeaux roots, with a great texture.” —J. Kosseff
“This is a joint venture between Catena and Lafite–Rothschild in Bordeaux. Their top wine, “Caro,” is twice as expensive. Amancaya has more malbec in the blend, meant for early drinking.” —J. Greene
“For the price, this is really good, and it's showing better now than the Caro.”
—J. Heber
Tamarack
2006 Columbia Valley Firehouse Red $20
“This is a kitchen–sink blend from great vineyards all over the Columbia Valley—it's routinely one of the state's best bang–for–the–buck reds. The 2006 is juicy and rich, with a healthy slug of chocolatey oak to hold all that fruit together.” —P.J. Comiskey
“It smells like a caramel macchiato. I'd serve this with beef bourguignon.”
—E. Porto Carreiro
Chateau Ste. Michelle
2005 Columbia Valley Indian Wells Cabernet Sauvignon $19
“Foursquare and dark–fruited, this has black cherry and plum flavors grounded by firm tannin.” —P.J. Comiskey
“It fits in with a rib–eye steak.” —R. Clement
Cadence
2006 Columbia Valley Coda $25
“This has a lot of red fruit, like cranberry. It's a perfect prime rib wine. It's delicate and not at all in your face, like a lot of other Washington wines.” —A. Weil
“Ben Smith's wines are elegant and satisfying, and this is a great way to get to know his style.” —W. Weber
Chateau Phélan–Ségur
2004 St–Estèphe $25
“This is a vintage for people who are long on time and short on money.” —A. Weil
“Many of the '04s from St–Estèphe are sort of unforgiving as young wines. This one is easy to drink. It has a clean fruit quality, a lot of complexity, a lot of layers. It needs some cellaring to show off what it's got…a great counter to expensive California cabernets, and a fantastic value for Left Bank Bordeaux.” —S. Goldun
“I finished up some '89 Phélan two years ago, just when it was beginning to fade. Still working on a case of 2000. This 2004 will keep beautifully—one of the more elegant wines from St–Estèphe.” —J. Greene
Beringer
2005 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $27
“This is a big rich wine, made for a steak. At the price, it delivers a lot in terms of value.”
—J. Kosseff
“Wines from that area can easily be up to $230. This one has nice length and a beautiful nose. The mouthfeel is very velvety. It's a great value at $27.” —B. Gillespie
Pelton House
2005 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $45
“This is a new brand from a great vineyard farmed by Jess Jackson's family company. It's made by a Chilean woman, Marcia Monahan, who planted some carmenère on the property to blend in with this cabernet. A vineyard to watch.” —J. Greene
Sweet & Complex
Dr. Loosen
2006 Mosel Riesling Beerenauslese $25
“This is all from Bernkasteler Lay, harvested from early–developing botrytis. Don't be fooled by the price. This is serious BA, made by one of the masters of the style. It could be the greatest value in dessert wine currently on the market.” —P. Liem
“I'd drink it with baked apricot stuffed with mascarpone.” —R. Pierce
“For me, this is like pumpkin, some candied pumpkin dessert. Even a pumpkin soup.” —M. Mendoza
Royal Tokaji Wine Company
2003 Tokaji 5 Puttonyos $39
“Tokaji really have a niche. It's definitely not riesling, definitely not Sauternes. It's its own thing with a unique place on the menu.”
—R. Pierce
“Tokaji used to be considered one of the finest wines in the world; this wine ranks up there, without the price tag to match. It's opulent, with golden apricot, orange, beeswax and smoke flavors, with vibrant acidity that wraps it tightly and will keep this going for at least another twenty years.” —T.Q. Thomas
“I'm getting such a hit of orange. A wine for orange mousse.” —M. Mendoza
Loel
Cyprus Commandaria $12
“It's got a lot of salty, nutty characteristics. This would go well with aged Manchego, and would make a nice aperitif.”
—E. Railsback
“Where else in the world can you find a satin–textured wine laden with figgy fruit, spice and molasses notes for $12? A glass is all you need for dessert, and a little goes a long way.” —T.Q. Thomas
Quinta do Vesuvio
2005 Porto $63
“It tastes really great this young, but I'd keep it for twenty years.” —J. Kosseff
“And it will easily live that long. Vesuvio is only ever made as a single–quinta Port; it's one of the Symington family's best properties.” —J. Greene
“For a young Port like this, pairing it with a Roquefort is perfect. There's a wonderful balance.” —E. Kelley
Croft
2005 Porto Quinta da Roeda $47
“It has a classic profile and needs some age. An excellent value in a Vintage Port. Some of the sweeter wines tend to be more exuberant; this one's a little drier.” —S. Goldun
“The Taylor Fonseca group purchased Roeda in 2001 and the work they've done on the vineyard is beginning to show in this 2005. It's a legendary site, and will likely regain its reputation as a top vineyard in the years to come. Which makes it a great buy at the moment.” —J. Greene
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2006 Mendocino County Pinot Noir $25
“Mendocino Pinot Noir has this beautiful wild cherry and black tea aroma. I’d serve this a little cool with duck confit and sauteed morel mushrooms.” —N. Daquip
“Milla Handley’s pinots are fresh and unpretentious. This one has the cool scent of the Mendocino coast.” —J. Greene
Calera
2006 Mount Harlan Cuvée Pinot Noir $30
“This is so silky, and meaty at the same time. It has what I like to call my goatee of tannin (a shadow, not a full-on beard).” —M. Mendoza
“There’s such blue fruit to this wine.”
—R. Clement
“It’s got a lot more minerals than I’m used to in California pinots, that’s for sure. And tarter fruits—red currants, Rainer cherries, raspberries. It’s a great wine for roast duck or quail.” — C. Tanghe
Domaine de la Noblaie
2004 Chinon
Les Chiens-Chiens Rouge $15
“Talk about a pure rustic expression of Loire valley cab franc! The berry fruit, minerals, herbal notes and pepper. Loads of complexity.”
—J. Marvin
“It’s like someone coming up to you with a bundle of dill and putting it in your face. It seems like a great pairing with our roast turkey sandwich, with a cranberry mayonnaise.” —R. Pierce
“It’s big and it’s meaty, but it’s got this candied violet thing on the finish. Chinon can be too serious. This one’s got some charm.” —R. Clement
Thierry Puzelat
2006 Vin de Table
La Tesnière Pineau d’Aunis $27
“I love French country wines. This might change your perception of any wine you’ve ever tasted before.” —A. Weil
“Pineau d’aunis is a deliciously rustic, food-friendly variety that deserves to be better known. Puzelat tames the grape’s tough tannins and brings out a plummy flavor that’s succulent and inviting.” —P. Liem
Rhône Family
Le Pigeolet en Provence
2006 Vin de Pays de Vaucluse $16
“This is one of those wines you just want to drink the second it’s open. It’s got really bright fruit, and good acidity.”
—E. Railsback
“This far outperforms its appellation. It’s a stand out for its restrained ripeness and easy, natural feel.” —T.Q. Thomas
“The lively acidity makes it delicious, savory and food friendly as well. I can see it with liver paté and cornichons.”
—N. Drummer
Château Mont-Redon
2005 Côtes du Rhône $15
“Spicy and wild. This is the best wine for the price in this tasting. This is great; it’s got balance, structure, flavor.” —J. Kosseff
“For leg of lamb, rosemary, garlic. Keep it simple.” —J. Marvin
Domaine du Nizas
2003 Coteaux du Languedoc $17
“It’s a nice entry into southern France, the wood gives you some familiarity, yet it’s all Rhône varietals in its expression.” —J. Marvin
“Particularly in the hot vintage of 2003, this stands out for its woodsy, earthy flavors, stony minerality and firm tannin. It’s a syrah with some restraint.” —T.Q. Thomas
“A wine for sausages, merguez, Basque sausage.” —E. Kelley
Yalumba
2006 Barossa Bush Vine Grenache $16
“There’s a nice violet floral aroma, but it’s a big wine, very sweet, very ripe. It’s like Châteauneuf-du-Pape in a super-hot year.” —R. Clement
“It’s ripe, but it’s got some acid; there’s a sort of sweet-tart thing with the sugar.” —R. Pierce
“Total chick wine; all those flowers and sweet raspberry fruit.” —M. Mendoza
d’Arenberg
2005 McLaren Vale
d’Arry’s Original Shiraz–Grenache $19
“This may have grenache but it’s much deeper and smokier than the Yalumba.” —R. Pierce
“And it’s got those big, dark chewy tannins that signals shiraz.” —M. Mendoza
“It’s a great, old-fashioned McLaren Vale red, the kind of classical, old-vine blend you don’t see around much anymore. It’s named for Chester Osborn’s father, who first made it in the 1960s. This 2005 is one of their best yet.” —J. Greene
“It’s really voluptuous, great with venison with porcini and bacon.” —C. Tanghe
Penfolds
2004 South Australia Bin 389
Cabernet–Shiraz $28
“It’s got big, black fruit, and lots of cassis and kir. It doesn’t have too much heat, and it’s got some cabernet to mellow it out. It’s an all-things-to-all people wine. It’s somewhat light on its feet, so you could drink it in the summer, but it’s also hearty enough for the winter.” —A. Weil
“It’s also a wine you can use to start a collection. This will age for fifteen years or more.” —J. Greene
Boomtown
2006 Columbia Valley Syrah $15
“It’s got that sexy layer of oak. I see lots of people liking it a lot. It’s not as dark and tannic as the Penfolds.” —E. Railsback
“I loved this wine. It has a lot of red berry fruit and it’s easy to drink.” —E. Moro
Gordon Brothers
2005 Columbia Valley Syrah $19
“It’s hearty, with a lot of black cherry and toffee flavor—a wine that’ll go with a steak or barbecue, anything with a bit of spice and strong flavors.” —S. Goldun
“This needs grilled red meat.” —J. Kosseff
“Or even Korean BBQ, the balance between the sweetness and the spice in both the food and the wine would work.” —E. Kelley
Qupé
2006 Central Coast Syrah $17
“One of my favorite value wines year in and out. Blackberry, peppery and clean. This is the first California wine I ever collected. The prices were—still are—low.” —J. Heber
“This works with deep south, saucy barbecue. Or a lot of the sesame-flavored pan-Asian dishes.” — J. Kosseff
Philippe Faury
2005 St-Joseph $28
“How clovey is that? You get all these white flowers too.” —R. Pierce
“I dig it. It’s just full-on syrah from sandy soils, very light, very pretty, and no oak at all. I’d serve it with cassoulet.”—E. Porto Carreiro
“Or a cold venison salad with rocket. This wine is a ‘Hepburn’—sleek and elegant. The color’s really beautiful, too. And look at this, it’s 12.8 percent alcohol.” —M. Mendoza
Parducci
2004 Mendocino
True Grit Petite Sirah $25
“This has those textbook chewy tannins of petite, that cocoa powder thing that happens with the tannins.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“It has just a terrific amount of potential; it will evolve so much over the years.”
—R. Clement
“This wine is all about John Wayne, western food. Well there, pilgrim….ribs off the grill, or ribs with some sweet, herbed rub, maybe a little vinegar in the barbecue sauce.”
—M. Mendoza
Mediterranean/
Iberian Varieties
Chakana
2006 Mendoza Bonarda $11
“There’s a delicate balance between something that’s fresh and good, and something that’s watery and poorly made. This is not at all watery. It’s light and it’s fresh.” —A. Weil
“If you don’t know bonarda, this Chakana is a great way to taste the red fruit flavors and vibrant acidity of the grape.” —P. Tapia
Quinta do Encontro
2004 Bairrada Q do E $9
“This is really good for a nine-dollar wine. It’s a fuller-bodied red with a bit of oak—lots of vanilla notes—but it’s easily approachable. It’s got light tannins, which make it easy to drink.”—E. Railsback
“The baga grape in Bairrada can often be unrelentingly tannic. Here it’s deliciously spicy, especially with grilled lamb.” —J. Greene
Dona Maria
2005 Alentejano VR $17
“This is fantastic. It’s got lots of sweet black fruit, leather and smoke, and earth. It’s powerful and the grippy tannins would be great with braised short ribs or some other braised meat dish. It’s definitely a food wine—it really has the acidity and the tannin structure for it.” —C. Tanghe
“It’s going to go with any sort of grilled steak, spiced meats.” —J. Heber
“Or with Portuguese cheeses, like Serra da Estrela.” —E. Kelley
Gordonzello Peregrino
2005 Tierras de León
Roble Prieto Picudo $18
“It really needs salty Iberian tapas.”
—J. Kosseff
“This Peregrino feels like a refreshing black cherry sorbet, precisely the way Prieto Picudo should taste.” —P. Tapia
Marqués de Cáceres
2001 Rioja Reserva $23
“It has such a soft, fleshy cherry fruit, such a lovely texture.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“A velvety wine, this is really delicious…it took seven years to make that texture.” —M. Mendoza
“It’s a wine for grilled lamb, or beef. That earthiness would pair with mushrooms, to go along with the meat.” —P.J. Comiskey
Ridge
2006 Sonoma County
Three Valleys Zinfandel $22
“It’s bright and tasty. I definitely don’t like a lot of zins; usually the color is so dense that you can’t even see through it. Here, the alcohol is low enough. It’s very refreshing for a zinfandel, not at all over the top. It has some carignan, which seems to lighten it up a bit.” —E. Railsback
Frog’s Leap
2006 Napa Valley Zinfandel $27
“A classic claret-style zin—this has a lot of acidity. It’s not jammy. What’s really cool about it is that comes from organic, dry-farmed vineyards, which is significant because Napa’s sort of irrigation-heavy. Zinfandel in particular seems to respond really well to dry farming. The other thing I love about this wine is that it’s 13.5 alcohol, which is less than most cabs, and this is a zin, which is supposed to be big and bad.” —W. Weber
Italian Reds
Librandi
2004 Cirò Duca San Felice Riserva $18
“I like that it’s fairly light in color, and it’s still rustic and hearty—this would go great with lamb with garlic and herbs. The wine can actually stand up to some pretty heavy foods.” —S. Goldun
“I order this almost every time I go to Pizzeria Delfina in San Francisco. We drank Cirò all summer when I lived in Rome, and when I have it here it just takes me back. The acidity and funky, earthy fruit flavors are totally Italian.” —W. Weber
Fattoria La Peschiera
2005 Morellino di Scansano $17
“The ideal combination of dried fruit, grainy tannins, acidity.” —J. Kosseff
“It’s a steal at the price, with all that structure and flavor, you could even lay it down.”
—J. Marvin
“Drink it with steak tagliatta, a rare steak grilled and tossed with salad.” —J. Heber
Melini
2005 Chianti Classico Isassi $15
“I get a lot of rose petal. Maybe dried rose petal. There’s some dried meat in there too…this is a palate wine. It’s delicious.” —R. Clement
“Serve it with duck with cherries.” —M. Mendoza
“Or it’s juicy enough to go with a capicola sandwich.” —R. Pierce
Le Macchiole
2005 Bolgheri Rosso $32
“Surprisingly accessible. I think it’s the best wine I’ve had today. Very New World style. But it’s so plush, so concentrated. I’d serve it with Kobe beef.” —M. Mendoza
“This estate grows one of the best cabernet francs in the world. The Bolgheri Rosso is one-third the price—a selection from the younger merlot and cab franc vines with a little syrah and sangiovese. It’s a way in to one of the great vineyards of Tuscany.”
—J. Greene
Abbazia di Novacella
2006 Alto Adige Lagrein $27
“This lagrein’s got a lot of concentration, but it doesn’t have the typical tough tannins. It has bright cherry fruit, and the acidity feels fresh in your mouth. Just classic.” —E. Railsback
“This has the freshness and the spice of a great red from the Italian Alps. The acidity makes it really versatile. It’s too light for steak, but with that acidity it needs something with a little bit of fat…like a grilled bone-in pork chop.” —W. Weber
Il Roncal
2005 Colli Orientali del Friuli
Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso $22
“The tart, bright cherry fruit makes your mouth pucker. It has a classic earthiness. I think it’s a wine to drink in a year or two, though. Not right away.” —E. Railsback
“I love refosco for its juicy fruitiness and freshness. This has considerable depth yet it doesn’t feel heavy, thanks to a lively balance of acidity and tannin.” —P. Liem
Poderi Luigi Einaudi
2006 Dolcetto di Dogliani $22
“This is a sexy wine. The nose isn’t so hard to figure out, and you just want to taste it.” — J. Kosseff
“Dogliani always has intense, structured dolcettos. This one is a bird wine: game hen, quail.” —J. Heber
Cantina del Pino
2005 Barbera d’Alba $32
“Barbera d’Alba will always be the younger brother of the bigger Piedmontese wines—a wine that speaks to youth and energy. Very primary with fruit while being playful and spicy. With slow-roasted baby back ribs—this would be my Old World alternative to zinfandel this summer.” —N. Daquip
“The acidity in barbera makes it one of my go-to red wines. You can drink it with almost anything. This one also shows a sense of minerality, a firmness and satisfying flavor.” —W. Weber
Damilano
2005 Nebbiolo d’Alba $21
“It’s an amazing wine for the money. The distance between Barolo and Alba is like the distance between Echo Park and Silver Lake, but the grape can still perform, hill to hill.” —R. Clement
“It’s so elegant and balanced. This is the best value of them all.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“It actually smells a little bit like Fernet. No, really, it's like Averna. It's killer.”
—M. Mendoza
Cabernet Family
Snoqualmie
2006 Columbia Valley Merlot $10
“This is a great little wine for ten dollars.” —R. Pierce
“It has some classic Washington merlot elements, a nice red berry lightness and succulent texture. There's a little creamy caramel wood flavor on the finish. It's easy to drink on its own.” —Patrick J. Comiskey
Santa Rita
2006 Rapel Valley Reserva Carmenère $14
“A textbook carmenère, this offers bell peppers and chocolatey flavors surrounded by a mellow, round texture.” —P. Tapia
“The vegetal nose reminds me of cabernet franc. It's a wine for the more adventurous. This brings in different flavors and textures and florals, more than just dark fruit and oak. It would work really well with cassoulet—pork sausage, beef tongue and duck confit.
Morandé
2005 Maipo Valley
Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon $17
“It's not so green that it's over the top and it doesn't have a big fat oak presence. The acidity gives it its brightness.” —E. Railsback
Bodegas Nieto Senetiner
2005 Mendoza Don Nicanor Malbec $17
“My marker for malbec is that it looks like syrah but it tastes like cabernet.” —J. Heber
“This is a voluptuous and ripe example of the grape. It seems it was made for Argentine asado.” —P. Tapia
Caro
2006 Mendoza Amancaya $20
“This really shows its Bordeaux roots, with a great texture.” —J. Kosseff
“This is a joint venture between Catena and Lafite–Rothschild in Bordeaux. Their top wine, “Caro,” is twice as expensive. Amancaya has more malbec in the blend, meant for early drinking.” —J. Greene
“For the price, this is really good, and it's showing better now than the Caro.”
—J. Heber
Tamarack
2006 Columbia Valley Firehouse Red $20
“This is a kitchen–sink blend from great vineyards all over the Columbia Valley—it's routinely one of the state's best bang–for–the–buck reds. The 2006 is juicy and rich, with a healthy slug of chocolatey oak to hold all that fruit together.” —P.J. Comiskey
“It smells like a caramel macchiato. I'd serve this with beef bourguignon.”
—E. Porto Carreiro
Chateau Ste. Michelle
2005 Columbia Valley Indian Wells Cabernet Sauvignon $19
“Foursquare and dark–fruited, this has black cherry and plum flavors grounded by firm tannin.” —P.J. Comiskey
“It fits in with a rib–eye steak.” —R. Clement
Cadence
2006 Columbia Valley Coda $25
“This has a lot of red fruit, like cranberry. It's a perfect prime rib wine. It's delicate and not at all in your face, like a lot of other Washington wines.” —A. Weil
“Ben Smith's wines are elegant and satisfying, and this is a great way to get to know his style.” —W. Weber
Chateau Phélan–Ségur
2004 St–Estèphe $25
“This is a vintage for people who are long on time and short on money.” —A. Weil
“Many of the '04s from St–Estèphe are sort of unforgiving as young wines. This one is easy to drink. It has a clean fruit quality, a lot of complexity, a lot of layers. It needs some cellaring to show off what it's got…a great counter to expensive California cabernets, and a fantastic value for Left Bank Bordeaux.” —S. Goldun
“I finished up some '89 Phélan two years ago, just when it was beginning to fade. Still working on a case of 2000. This 2004 will keep beautifully—one of the more elegant wines from St–Estèphe.” —J. Greene
Beringer
2005 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $27
“This is a big rich wine, made for a steak. At the price, it delivers a lot in terms of value.”
—J. Kosseff
“Wines from that area can easily be up to $230. This one has nice length and a beautiful nose. The mouthfeel is very velvety. It's a great value at $27.” —B. Gillespie
Pelton House
2005 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $45
“This is a new brand from a great vineyard farmed by Jess Jackson's family company. It's made by a Chilean woman, Marcia Monahan, who planted some carmenère on the property to blend in with this cabernet. A vineyard to watch.” —J. Greene
Sweet & Complex
Dr. Loosen
2006 Mosel Riesling Beerenauslese $25
“This is all from Bernkasteler Lay, harvested from early–developing botrytis. Don't be fooled by the price. This is serious BA, made by one of the masters of the style. It could be the greatest value in dessert wine currently on the market.” —P. Liem
“I'd drink it with baked apricot stuffed with mascarpone.” —R. Pierce
“For me, this is like pumpkin, some candied pumpkin dessert. Even a pumpkin soup.” —M. Mendoza
Royal Tokaji Wine Company
2003 Tokaji 5 Puttonyos $39
“Tokaji really have a niche. It's definitely not riesling, definitely not Sauternes. It's its own thing with a unique place on the menu.”
—R. Pierce
“Tokaji used to be considered one of the finest wines in the world; this wine ranks up there, without the price tag to match. It's opulent, with golden apricot, orange, beeswax and smoke flavors, with vibrant acidity that wraps it tightly and will keep this going for at least another twenty years.” —T.Q. Thomas
“I'm getting such a hit of orange. A wine for orange mousse.” —M. Mendoza
Loel
Cyprus Commandaria $12
“It's got a lot of salty, nutty characteristics. This would go well with aged Manchego, and would make a nice aperitif.”
—E. Railsback
“Where else in the world can you find a satin–textured wine laden with figgy fruit, spice and molasses notes for $12? A glass is all you need for dessert, and a little goes a long way.” —T.Q. Thomas
Quinta do Vesuvio
2005 Porto $63
“It tastes really great this young, but I'd keep it for twenty years.” —J. Kosseff
“And it will easily live that long. Vesuvio is only ever made as a single–quinta Port; it's one of the Symington family's best properties.” —J. Greene
“For a young Port like this, pairing it with a Roquefort is perfect. There's a wonderful balance.” —E. Kelley
Croft
2005 Porto Quinta da Roeda $47
“It has a classic profile and needs some age. An excellent value in a Vintage Port. Some of the sweeter wines tend to be more exuberant; this one's a little drier.” —S. Goldun
“The Taylor Fonseca group purchased Roeda in 2001 and the work they've done on the vineyard is beginning to show in this 2005. It's a legendary site, and will likely regain its reputation as a top vineyard in the years to come. Which makes it a great buy at the moment.” —J. Greene
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2004 Chinon Les Chiens-Chiens Rouge $15
“Talk about a pure rustic expression of Loire valley cab franc! The berry fruit, minerals, herbal notes and pepper. Loads of complexity.” —J. Marvin
“It’s like someone coming up to you with a bundle of dill and putting it in your face. It seems like a great pairing with our roast turkey sandwich, with a cranberry mayonnaise.” —R. Pierce
“It’s big and it’s meaty, but it’s got this candied violet thing on the finish. Chinon can be too serious. This one’s got some charm.” —R. Clement
Thierry Puzelat
2006 Vin de Table
La Tesnière Pineau d’Aunis $27
“I love French country wines. This might change your perception of any wine you’ve ever tasted before.” —A. Weil
“Pineau d’aunis is a deliciously rustic, food-friendly variety that deserves to be better known. Puzelat tames the grape’s tough tannins and brings out a plummy flavor that’s succulent and inviting.” —P. Liem
Rhône Family
Le Pigeolet en Provence
2006 Vin de Pays de Vaucluse $16
“This is one of those wines you just want to drink the second it’s open. It’s got really bright fruit, and good acidity.”
—E. Railsback
“This far outperforms its appellation. It’s a stand out for its restrained ripeness and easy, natural feel.” —T.Q. Thomas
“The lively acidity makes it delicious, savory and food friendly as well. I can see it with liver paté and cornichons.”
—N. Drummer
Château Mont-Redon
2005 Côtes du Rhône $15
“Spicy and wild. This is the best wine for the price in this tasting. This is great; it’s got balance, structure, flavor.” —J. Kosseff
“For leg of lamb, rosemary, garlic. Keep it simple.” —J. Marvin
Domaine du Nizas
2003 Coteaux du Languedoc $17
“It’s a nice entry into southern France, the wood gives you some familiarity, yet it’s all Rhône varietals in its expression.” —J. Marvin
“Particularly in the hot vintage of 2003, this stands out for its woodsy, earthy flavors, stony minerality and firm tannin. It’s a syrah with some restraint.” —T.Q. Thomas
“A wine for sausages, merguez, Basque sausage.” —E. Kelley
Yalumba
2006 Barossa Bush Vine Grenache $16
“There’s a nice violet floral aroma, but it’s a big wine, very sweet, very ripe. It’s like Châteauneuf-du-Pape in a super-hot year.” —R. Clement
“It’s ripe, but it’s got some acid; there’s a sort of sweet-tart thing with the sugar.” —R. Pierce
“Total chick wine; all those flowers and sweet raspberry fruit.” —M. Mendoza
d’Arenberg
2005 McLaren Vale
d’Arry’s Original Shiraz–Grenache $19
“This may have grenache but it’s much deeper and smokier than the Yalumba.” —R. Pierce
“And it’s got those big, dark chewy tannins that signals shiraz.” —M. Mendoza
“It’s a great, old-fashioned McLaren Vale red, the kind of classical, old-vine blend you don’t see around much anymore. It’s named for Chester Osborn’s father, who first made it in the 1960s. This 2005 is one of their best yet.” —J. Greene
“It’s really voluptuous, great with venison with porcini and bacon.” —C. Tanghe
Penfolds
2004 South Australia Bin 389
Cabernet–Shiraz $28
“It’s got big, black fruit, and lots of cassis and kir. It doesn’t have too much heat, and it’s got some cabernet to mellow it out. It’s an all-things-to-all people wine. It’s somewhat light on its feet, so you could drink it in the summer, but it’s also hearty enough for the winter.” —A. Weil
“It’s also a wine you can use to start a collection. This will age for fifteen years or more.” —J. Greene
Boomtown
2006 Columbia Valley Syrah $15
“It’s got that sexy layer of oak. I see lots of people liking it a lot. It’s not as dark and tannic as the Penfolds.” —E. Railsback
“I loved this wine. It has a lot of red berry fruit and it’s easy to drink.” —E. Moro
Gordon Brothers
2005 Columbia Valley Syrah $19
“It’s hearty, with a lot of black cherry and toffee flavor—a wine that’ll go with a steak or barbecue, anything with a bit of spice and strong flavors.” —S. Goldun
“This needs grilled red meat.” —J. Kosseff
“Or even Korean BBQ, the balance between the sweetness and the spice in both the food and the wine would work.” —E. Kelley
Qupé
2006 Central Coast Syrah $17
“One of my favorite value wines year in and out. Blackberry, peppery and clean. This is the first California wine I ever collected. The prices were—still are—low.” —J. Heber
“This works with deep south, saucy barbecue. Or a lot of the sesame-flavored pan-Asian dishes.” — J. Kosseff
Philippe Faury
2005 St-Joseph $28
“How clovey is that? You get all these white flowers too.” —R. Pierce
“I dig it. It’s just full-on syrah from sandy soils, very light, very pretty, and no oak at all. I’d serve it with cassoulet.”—E. Porto Carreiro
“Or a cold venison salad with rocket. This wine is a ‘Hepburn’—sleek and elegant. The color’s really beautiful, too. And look at this, it’s 12.8 percent alcohol.” —M. Mendoza
Parducci
2004 Mendocino
True Grit Petite Sirah $25
“This has those textbook chewy tannins of petite, that cocoa powder thing that happens with the tannins.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“It has just a terrific amount of potential; it will evolve so much over the years.”
—R. Clement
“This wine is all about John Wayne, western food. Well there, pilgrim….ribs off the grill, or ribs with some sweet, herbed rub, maybe a little vinegar in the barbecue sauce.”
—M. Mendoza
Mediterranean/
Iberian Varieties
Chakana
2006 Mendoza Bonarda $11
“There’s a delicate balance between something that’s fresh and good, and something that’s watery and poorly made. This is not at all watery. It’s light and it’s fresh.” —A. Weil
“If you don’t know bonarda, this Chakana is a great way to taste the red fruit flavors and vibrant acidity of the grape.” —P. Tapia
Quinta do Encontro
2004 Bairrada Q do E $9
“This is really good for a nine-dollar wine. It’s a fuller-bodied red with a bit of oak—lots of vanilla notes—but it’s easily approachable. It’s got light tannins, which make it easy to drink.”—E. Railsback
“The baga grape in Bairrada can often be unrelentingly tannic. Here it’s deliciously spicy, especially with grilled lamb.” —J. Greene
Dona Maria
2005 Alentejano VR $17
“This is fantastic. It’s got lots of sweet black fruit, leather and smoke, and earth. It’s powerful and the grippy tannins would be great with braised short ribs or some other braised meat dish. It’s definitely a food wine—it really has the acidity and the tannin structure for it.” —C. Tanghe
“It’s going to go with any sort of grilled steak, spiced meats.” —J. Heber
“Or with Portuguese cheeses, like Serra da Estrela.” —E. Kelley
Gordonzello Peregrino
2005 Tierras de León
Roble Prieto Picudo $18
“It really needs salty Iberian tapas.”
—J. Kosseff
“This Peregrino feels like a refreshing black cherry sorbet, precisely the way Prieto Picudo should taste.” —P. Tapia
Marqués de Cáceres
2001 Rioja Reserva $23
“It has such a soft, fleshy cherry fruit, such a lovely texture.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“A velvety wine, this is really delicious…it took seven years to make that texture.” —M. Mendoza
“It’s a wine for grilled lamb, or beef. That earthiness would pair with mushrooms, to go along with the meat.” —P.J. Comiskey
Ridge
2006 Sonoma County
Three Valleys Zinfandel $22
“It’s bright and tasty. I definitely don’t like a lot of zins; usually the color is so dense that you can’t even see through it. Here, the alcohol is low enough. It’s very refreshing for a zinfandel, not at all over the top. It has some carignan, which seems to lighten it up a bit.” —E. Railsback
Frog’s Leap
2006 Napa Valley Zinfandel $27
“A classic claret-style zin—this has a lot of acidity. It’s not jammy. What’s really cool about it is that comes from organic, dry-farmed vineyards, which is significant because Napa’s sort of irrigation-heavy. Zinfandel in particular seems to respond really well to dry farming. The other thing I love about this wine is that it’s 13.5 alcohol, which is less than most cabs, and this is a zin, which is supposed to be big and bad.” —W. Weber
Italian Reds
Librandi
2004 Cirò Duca San Felice Riserva $18
“I like that it’s fairly light in color, and it’s still rustic and hearty—this would go great with lamb with garlic and herbs. The wine can actually stand up to some pretty heavy foods.” —S. Goldun
“I order this almost every time I go to Pizzeria Delfina in San Francisco. We drank Cirò all summer when I lived in Rome, and when I have it here it just takes me back. The acidity and funky, earthy fruit flavors are totally Italian.” —W. Weber
Fattoria La Peschiera
2005 Morellino di Scansano $17
“The ideal combination of dried fruit, grainy tannins, acidity.” —J. Kosseff
“It’s a steal at the price, with all that structure and flavor, you could even lay it down.”
—J. Marvin
“Drink it with steak tagliatta, a rare steak grilled and tossed with salad.” —J. Heber
Melini
2005 Chianti Classico Isassi $15
“I get a lot of rose petal. Maybe dried rose petal. There’s some dried meat in there too…this is a palate wine. It’s delicious.” —R. Clement
“Serve it with duck with cherries.” —M. Mendoza
“Or it’s juicy enough to go with a capicola sandwich.” —R. Pierce
Le Macchiole
2005 Bolgheri Rosso $32
“Surprisingly accessible. I think it’s the best wine I’ve had today. Very New World style. But it’s so plush, so concentrated. I’d serve it with Kobe beef.” —M. Mendoza
“This estate grows one of the best cabernet francs in the world. The Bolgheri Rosso is one-third the price—a selection from the younger merlot and cab franc vines with a little syrah and sangiovese. It’s a way in to one of the great vineyards of Tuscany.”
—J. Greene
Abbazia di Novacella
2006 Alto Adige Lagrein $27
“This lagrein’s got a lot of concentration, but it doesn’t have the typical tough tannins. It has bright cherry fruit, and the acidity feels fresh in your mouth. Just classic.” —E. Railsback
“This has the freshness and the spice of a great red from the Italian Alps. The acidity makes it really versatile. It’s too light for steak, but with that acidity it needs something with a little bit of fat…like a grilled bone-in pork chop.” —W. Weber
Il Roncal
2005 Colli Orientali del Friuli
Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso $22
“The tart, bright cherry fruit makes your mouth pucker. It has a classic earthiness. I think it’s a wine to drink in a year or two, though. Not right away.” —E. Railsback
“I love refosco for its juicy fruitiness and freshness. This has considerable depth yet it doesn’t feel heavy, thanks to a lively balance of acidity and tannin.” —P. Liem
Poderi Luigi Einaudi
2006 Dolcetto di Dogliani $22
“This is a sexy wine. The nose isn’t so hard to figure out, and you just want to taste it.” — J. Kosseff
“Dogliani always has intense, structured dolcettos. This one is a bird wine: game hen, quail.” —J. Heber
Cantina del Pino
2005 Barbera d’Alba $32
“Barbera d’Alba will always be the younger brother of the bigger Piedmontese wines—a wine that speaks to youth and energy. Very primary with fruit while being playful and spicy. With slow-roasted baby back ribs—this would be my Old World alternative to zinfandel this summer.” —N. Daquip
“The acidity in barbera makes it one of my go-to red wines. You can drink it with almost anything. This one also shows a sense of minerality, a firmness and satisfying flavor.” —W. Weber
Damilano
2005 Nebbiolo d’Alba $21
“It’s an amazing wine for the money. The distance between Barolo and Alba is like the distance between Echo Park and Silver Lake, but the grape can still perform, hill to hill.” —R. Clement
“It’s so elegant and balanced. This is the best value of them all.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“It actually smells a little bit like Fernet. No, really, it's like Averna. It's killer.”
—M. Mendoza
Cabernet Family
Snoqualmie
2006 Columbia Valley Merlot $10
“This is a great little wine for ten dollars.” —R. Pierce
“It has some classic Washington merlot elements, a nice red berry lightness and succulent texture. There's a little creamy caramel wood flavor on the finish. It's easy to drink on its own.” —Patrick J. Comiskey
Santa Rita
2006 Rapel Valley Reserva Carmenère $14
“A textbook carmenère, this offers bell peppers and chocolatey flavors surrounded by a mellow, round texture.” —P. Tapia
“The vegetal nose reminds me of cabernet franc. It's a wine for the more adventurous. This brings in different flavors and textures and florals, more than just dark fruit and oak. It would work really well with cassoulet—pork sausage, beef tongue and duck confit.
Morandé
2005 Maipo Valley
Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon $17
“It's not so green that it's over the top and it doesn't have a big fat oak presence. The acidity gives it its brightness.” —E. Railsback
Bodegas Nieto Senetiner
2005 Mendoza Don Nicanor Malbec $17
“My marker for malbec is that it looks like syrah but it tastes like cabernet.” —J. Heber
“This is a voluptuous and ripe example of the grape. It seems it was made for Argentine asado.” —P. Tapia
Caro
2006 Mendoza Amancaya $20
“This really shows its Bordeaux roots, with a great texture.” —J. Kosseff
“This is a joint venture between Catena and Lafite–Rothschild in Bordeaux. Their top wine, “Caro,” is twice as expensive. Amancaya has more malbec in the blend, meant for early drinking.” —J. Greene
“For the price, this is really good, and it's showing better now than the Caro.”
—J. Heber
Tamarack
2006 Columbia Valley Firehouse Red $20
“This is a kitchen–sink blend from great vineyards all over the Columbia Valley—it's routinely one of the state's best bang–for–the–buck reds. The 2006 is juicy and rich, with a healthy slug of chocolatey oak to hold all that fruit together.” —P.J. Comiskey
“It smells like a caramel macchiato. I'd serve this with beef bourguignon.”
—E. Porto Carreiro
Chateau Ste. Michelle
2005 Columbia Valley Indian Wells Cabernet Sauvignon $19
“Foursquare and dark–fruited, this has black cherry and plum flavors grounded by firm tannin.” —P.J. Comiskey
“It fits in with a rib–eye steak.” —R. Clement
Cadence
2006 Columbia Valley Coda $25
“This has a lot of red fruit, like cranberry. It's a perfect prime rib wine. It's delicate and not at all in your face, like a lot of other Washington wines.” —A. Weil
“Ben Smith's wines are elegant and satisfying, and this is a great way to get to know his style.” —W. Weber
Chateau Phélan–Ségur
2004 St–Estèphe $25
“This is a vintage for people who are long on time and short on money.” —A. Weil
“Many of the '04s from St–Estèphe are sort of unforgiving as young wines. This one is easy to drink. It has a clean fruit quality, a lot of complexity, a lot of layers. It needs some cellaring to show off what it's got…a great counter to expensive California cabernets, and a fantastic value for Left Bank Bordeaux.” —S. Goldun
“I finished up some '89 Phélan two years ago, just when it was beginning to fade. Still working on a case of 2000. This 2004 will keep beautifully—one of the more elegant wines from St–Estèphe.” —J. Greene
Beringer
2005 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $27
“This is a big rich wine, made for a steak. At the price, it delivers a lot in terms of value.”
—J. Kosseff
“Wines from that area can easily be up to $230. This one has nice length and a beautiful nose. The mouthfeel is very velvety. It's a great value at $27.” —B. Gillespie
Pelton House
2005 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $45
“This is a new brand from a great vineyard farmed by Jess Jackson's family company. It's made by a Chilean woman, Marcia Monahan, who planted some carmenère on the property to blend in with this cabernet. A vineyard to watch.” —J. Greene
Sweet & Complex
Dr. Loosen
2006 Mosel Riesling Beerenauslese $25
“This is all from Bernkasteler Lay, harvested from early–developing botrytis. Don't be fooled by the price. This is serious BA, made by one of the masters of the style. It could be the greatest value in dessert wine currently on the market.” —P. Liem
“I'd drink it with baked apricot stuffed with mascarpone.” —R. Pierce
“For me, this is like pumpkin, some candied pumpkin dessert. Even a pumpkin soup.” —M. Mendoza
Royal Tokaji Wine Company
2003 Tokaji 5 Puttonyos $39
“Tokaji really have a niche. It's definitely not riesling, definitely not Sauternes. It's its own thing with a unique place on the menu.”
—R. Pierce
“Tokaji used to be considered one of the finest wines in the world; this wine ranks up there, without the price tag to match. It's opulent, with golden apricot, orange, beeswax and smoke flavors, with vibrant acidity that wraps it tightly and will keep this going for at least another twenty years.” —T.Q. Thomas
“I'm getting such a hit of orange. A wine for orange mousse.” —M. Mendoza
Loel
Cyprus Commandaria $12
“It's got a lot of salty, nutty characteristics. This would go well with aged Manchego, and would make a nice aperitif.”
—E. Railsback
“Where else in the world can you find a satin–textured wine laden with figgy fruit, spice and molasses notes for $12? A glass is all you need for dessert, and a little goes a long way.” —T.Q. Thomas
Quinta do Vesuvio
2005 Porto $63
“It tastes really great this young, but I'd keep it for twenty years.” —J. Kosseff
“And it will easily live that long. Vesuvio is only ever made as a single–quinta Port; it's one of the Symington family's best properties.” —J. Greene
“For a young Port like this, pairing it with a Roquefort is perfect. There's a wonderful balance.” —E. Kelley
Croft
2005 Porto Quinta da Roeda $47
“It has a classic profile and needs some age. An excellent value in a Vintage Port. Some of the sweeter wines tend to be more exuberant; this one's a little drier.” —S. Goldun
“The Taylor Fonseca group purchased Roeda in 2001 and the work they've done on the vineyard is beginning to show in this 2005. It's a legendary site, and will likely regain its reputation as a top vineyard in the years to come. Which makes it a great buy at the moment.” —J. Greene
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2006 Vin de Pays de Vaucluse $16
“This is one of those wines you just want to drink the second it’s open. It’s got really bright fruit, and good acidity.” —E. Railsback
“This far outperforms its appellation. It’s a stand out for its restrained ripeness and easy, natural feel.” —T.Q. Thomas
“The lively acidity makes it delicious, savory and food friendly as well. I can see it with liver paté and cornichons.” —N. Drummer
Château Mont-Redon
2005 Côtes du Rhône $15
“Spicy and wild. This is the best wine for the price in this tasting. This is great; it’s got balance, structure, flavor.” —J. Kosseff
“For leg of lamb, rosemary, garlic. Keep it simple.” —J. Marvin
Domaine du Nizas
2003 Coteaux du Languedoc $17
“It’s a nice entry into southern France, the wood gives you some familiarity, yet it’s all Rhône varietals in its expression.” —J. Marvin
“Particularly in the hot vintage of 2003, this stands out for its woodsy, earthy flavors, stony minerality and firm tannin. It’s a syrah with some restraint.” —T.Q. Thomas
“A wine for sausages, merguez, Basque sausage.” —E. Kelley
Yalumba
2006 Barossa Bush Vine Grenache $16
“There’s a nice violet floral aroma, but it’s a big wine, very sweet, very ripe. It’s like Châteauneuf-du-Pape in a super-hot year.” —R. Clement
“It’s ripe, but it’s got some acid; there’s a sort of sweet-tart thing with the sugar.” —R. Pierce
“Total chick wine; all those flowers and sweet raspberry fruit.” —M. Mendoza
d’Arenberg
2005 McLaren Vale
d’Arry’s Original Shiraz–Grenache $19
“This may have grenache but it’s much deeper and smokier than the Yalumba.” —R. Pierce
“And it’s got those big, dark chewy tannins that signals shiraz.” —M. Mendoza
“It’s a great, old-fashioned McLaren Vale red, the kind of classical, old-vine blend you don’t see around much anymore. It’s named for Chester Osborn’s father, who first made it in the 1960s. This 2005 is one of their best yet.” —J. Greene
“It’s really voluptuous, great with venison with porcini and bacon.” —C. Tanghe
Penfolds
2004 South Australia Bin 389
Cabernet–Shiraz $28
“It’s got big, black fruit, and lots of cassis and kir. It doesn’t have too much heat, and it’s got some cabernet to mellow it out. It’s an all-things-to-all people wine. It’s somewhat light on its feet, so you could drink it in the summer, but it’s also hearty enough for the winter.” —A. Weil
“It’s also a wine you can use to start a collection. This will age for fifteen years or more.” —J. Greene
Boomtown
2006 Columbia Valley Syrah $15
“It’s got that sexy layer of oak. I see lots of people liking it a lot. It’s not as dark and tannic as the Penfolds.” —E. Railsback
“I loved this wine. It has a lot of red berry fruit and it’s easy to drink.” —E. Moro
Gordon Brothers
2005 Columbia Valley Syrah $19
“It’s hearty, with a lot of black cherry and toffee flavor—a wine that’ll go with a steak or barbecue, anything with a bit of spice and strong flavors.” —S. Goldun
“This needs grilled red meat.” —J. Kosseff
“Or even Korean BBQ, the balance between the sweetness and the spice in both the food and the wine would work.” —E. Kelley
Qupé
2006 Central Coast Syrah $17
“One of my favorite value wines year in and out. Blackberry, peppery and clean. This is the first California wine I ever collected. The prices were—still are—low.” —J. Heber
“This works with deep south, saucy barbecue. Or a lot of the sesame-flavored pan-Asian dishes.” — J. Kosseff
Philippe Faury
2005 St-Joseph $28
“How clovey is that? You get all these white flowers too.” —R. Pierce
“I dig it. It’s just full-on syrah from sandy soils, very light, very pretty, and no oak at all. I’d serve it with cassoulet.”—E. Porto Carreiro
“Or a cold venison salad with rocket. This wine is a ‘Hepburn’—sleek and elegant. The color’s really beautiful, too. And look at this, it’s 12.8 percent alcohol.” —M. Mendoza
Parducci
2004 Mendocino
True Grit Petite Sirah $25
“This has those textbook chewy tannins of petite, that cocoa powder thing that happens with the tannins.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“It has just a terrific amount of potential; it will evolve so much over the years.”
—R. Clement
“This wine is all about John Wayne, western food. Well there, pilgrim….ribs off the grill, or ribs with some sweet, herbed rub, maybe a little vinegar in the barbecue sauce.”
—M. Mendoza
Mediterranean/
Iberian Varieties
Chakana
2006 Mendoza Bonarda $11
“There’s a delicate balance between something that’s fresh and good, and something that’s watery and poorly made. This is not at all watery. It’s light and it’s fresh.” —A. Weil
“If you don’t know bonarda, this Chakana is a great way to taste the red fruit flavors and vibrant acidity of the grape.” —P. Tapia
Quinta do Encontro
2004 Bairrada Q do E $9
“This is really good for a nine-dollar wine. It’s a fuller-bodied red with a bit of oak—lots of vanilla notes—but it’s easily approachable. It’s got light tannins, which make it easy to drink.”—E. Railsback
“The baga grape in Bairrada can often be unrelentingly tannic. Here it’s deliciously spicy, especially with grilled lamb.” —J. Greene
Dona Maria
2005 Alentejano VR $17
“This is fantastic. It’s got lots of sweet black fruit, leather and smoke, and earth. It’s powerful and the grippy tannins would be great with braised short ribs or some other braised meat dish. It’s definitely a food wine—it really has the acidity and the tannin structure for it.” —C. Tanghe
“It’s going to go with any sort of grilled steak, spiced meats.” —J. Heber
“Or with Portuguese cheeses, like Serra da Estrela.” —E. Kelley
Gordonzello Peregrino
2005 Tierras de León
Roble Prieto Picudo $18
“It really needs salty Iberian tapas.”
—J. Kosseff
“This Peregrino feels like a refreshing black cherry sorbet, precisely the way Prieto Picudo should taste.” —P. Tapia
Marqués de Cáceres
2001 Rioja Reserva $23
“It has such a soft, fleshy cherry fruit, such a lovely texture.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“A velvety wine, this is really delicious…it took seven years to make that texture.” —M. Mendoza
“It’s a wine for grilled lamb, or beef. That earthiness would pair with mushrooms, to go along with the meat.” —P.J. Comiskey
Ridge
2006 Sonoma County
Three Valleys Zinfandel $22
“It’s bright and tasty. I definitely don’t like a lot of zins; usually the color is so dense that you can’t even see through it. Here, the alcohol is low enough. It’s very refreshing for a zinfandel, not at all over the top. It has some carignan, which seems to lighten it up a bit.” —E. Railsback
Frog’s Leap
2006 Napa Valley Zinfandel $27
“A classic claret-style zin—this has a lot of acidity. It’s not jammy. What’s really cool about it is that comes from organic, dry-farmed vineyards, which is significant because Napa’s sort of irrigation-heavy. Zinfandel in particular seems to respond really well to dry farming. The other thing I love about this wine is that it’s 13.5 alcohol, which is less than most cabs, and this is a zin, which is supposed to be big and bad.” —W. Weber
Italian Reds
Librandi
2004 Cirò Duca San Felice Riserva $18
“I like that it’s fairly light in color, and it’s still rustic and hearty—this would go great with lamb with garlic and herbs. The wine can actually stand up to some pretty heavy foods.” —S. Goldun
“I order this almost every time I go to Pizzeria Delfina in San Francisco. We drank Cirò all summer when I lived in Rome, and when I have it here it just takes me back. The acidity and funky, earthy fruit flavors are totally Italian.” —W. Weber
Fattoria La Peschiera
2005 Morellino di Scansano $17
“The ideal combination of dried fruit, grainy tannins, acidity.” —J. Kosseff
“It’s a steal at the price, with all that structure and flavor, you could even lay it down.”
—J. Marvin
“Drink it with steak tagliatta, a rare steak grilled and tossed with salad.” —J. Heber
Melini
2005 Chianti Classico Isassi $15
“I get a lot of rose petal. Maybe dried rose petal. There’s some dried meat in there too…this is a palate wine. It’s delicious.” —R. Clement
“Serve it with duck with cherries.” —M. Mendoza
“Or it’s juicy enough to go with a capicola sandwich.” —R. Pierce
Le Macchiole
2005 Bolgheri Rosso $32
“Surprisingly accessible. I think it’s the best wine I’ve had today. Very New World style. But it’s so plush, so concentrated. I’d serve it with Kobe beef.” —M. Mendoza
“This estate grows one of the best cabernet francs in the world. The Bolgheri Rosso is one-third the price—a selection from the younger merlot and cab franc vines with a little syrah and sangiovese. It’s a way in to one of the great vineyards of Tuscany.”
—J. Greene
Abbazia di Novacella
2006 Alto Adige Lagrein $27
“This lagrein’s got a lot of concentration, but it doesn’t have the typical tough tannins. It has bright cherry fruit, and the acidity feels fresh in your mouth. Just classic.” —E. Railsback
“This has the freshness and the spice of a great red from the Italian Alps. The acidity makes it really versatile. It’s too light for steak, but with that acidity it needs something with a little bit of fat…like a grilled bone-in pork chop.” —W. Weber
Il Roncal
2005 Colli Orientali del Friuli
Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso $22
“The tart, bright cherry fruit makes your mouth pucker. It has a classic earthiness. I think it’s a wine to drink in a year or two, though. Not right away.” —E. Railsback
“I love refosco for its juicy fruitiness and freshness. This has considerable depth yet it doesn’t feel heavy, thanks to a lively balance of acidity and tannin.” —P. Liem
Poderi Luigi Einaudi
2006 Dolcetto di Dogliani $22
“This is a sexy wine. The nose isn’t so hard to figure out, and you just want to taste it.” — J. Kosseff
“Dogliani always has intense, structured dolcettos. This one is a bird wine: game hen, quail.” —J. Heber
Cantina del Pino
2005 Barbera d’Alba $32
“Barbera d’Alba will always be the younger brother of the bigger Piedmontese wines—a wine that speaks to youth and energy. Very primary with fruit while being playful and spicy. With slow-roasted baby back ribs—this would be my Old World alternative to zinfandel this summer.” —N. Daquip
“The acidity in barbera makes it one of my go-to red wines. You can drink it with almost anything. This one also shows a sense of minerality, a firmness and satisfying flavor.” —W. Weber
Damilano
2005 Nebbiolo d’Alba $21
“It’s an amazing wine for the money. The distance between Barolo and Alba is like the distance between Echo Park and Silver Lake, but the grape can still perform, hill to hill.” —R. Clement
“It’s so elegant and balanced. This is the best value of them all.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“It actually smells a little bit like Fernet. No, really, it's like Averna. It's killer.”
—M. Mendoza
Cabernet Family
Snoqualmie
2006 Columbia Valley Merlot $10
“This is a great little wine for ten dollars.” —R. Pierce
“It has some classic Washington merlot elements, a nice red berry lightness and succulent texture. There's a little creamy caramel wood flavor on the finish. It's easy to drink on its own.” —Patrick J. Comiskey
Santa Rita
2006 Rapel Valley Reserva Carmenère $14
“A textbook carmenère, this offers bell peppers and chocolatey flavors surrounded by a mellow, round texture.” —P. Tapia
“The vegetal nose reminds me of cabernet franc. It's a wine for the more adventurous. This brings in different flavors and textures and florals, more than just dark fruit and oak. It would work really well with cassoulet—pork sausage, beef tongue and duck confit.
Morandé
2005 Maipo Valley
Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon $17
“It's not so green that it's over the top and it doesn't have a big fat oak presence. The acidity gives it its brightness.” —E. Railsback
Bodegas Nieto Senetiner
2005 Mendoza Don Nicanor Malbec $17
“My marker for malbec is that it looks like syrah but it tastes like cabernet.” —J. Heber
“This is a voluptuous and ripe example of the grape. It seems it was made for Argentine asado.” —P. Tapia
Caro
2006 Mendoza Amancaya $20
“This really shows its Bordeaux roots, with a great texture.” —J. Kosseff
“This is a joint venture between Catena and Lafite–Rothschild in Bordeaux. Their top wine, “Caro,” is twice as expensive. Amancaya has more malbec in the blend, meant for early drinking.” —J. Greene
“For the price, this is really good, and it's showing better now than the Caro.”
—J. Heber
Tamarack
2006 Columbia Valley Firehouse Red $20
“This is a kitchen–sink blend from great vineyards all over the Columbia Valley—it's routinely one of the state's best bang–for–the–buck reds. The 2006 is juicy and rich, with a healthy slug of chocolatey oak to hold all that fruit together.” —P.J. Comiskey
“It smells like a caramel macchiato. I'd serve this with beef bourguignon.”
—E. Porto Carreiro
Chateau Ste. Michelle
2005 Columbia Valley Indian Wells Cabernet Sauvignon $19
“Foursquare and dark–fruited, this has black cherry and plum flavors grounded by firm tannin.” —P.J. Comiskey
“It fits in with a rib–eye steak.” —R. Clement
Cadence
2006 Columbia Valley Coda $25
“This has a lot of red fruit, like cranberry. It's a perfect prime rib wine. It's delicate and not at all in your face, like a lot of other Washington wines.” —A. Weil
“Ben Smith's wines are elegant and satisfying, and this is a great way to get to know his style.” —W. Weber
Chateau Phélan–Ségur
2004 St–Estèphe $25
“This is a vintage for people who are long on time and short on money.” —A. Weil
“Many of the '04s from St–Estèphe are sort of unforgiving as young wines. This one is easy to drink. It has a clean fruit quality, a lot of complexity, a lot of layers. It needs some cellaring to show off what it's got…a great counter to expensive California cabernets, and a fantastic value for Left Bank Bordeaux.” —S. Goldun
“I finished up some '89 Phélan two years ago, just when it was beginning to fade. Still working on a case of 2000. This 2004 will keep beautifully—one of the more elegant wines from St–Estèphe.” —J. Greene
Beringer
2005 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $27
“This is a big rich wine, made for a steak. At the price, it delivers a lot in terms of value.”
—J. Kosseff
“Wines from that area can easily be up to $230. This one has nice length and a beautiful nose. The mouthfeel is very velvety. It's a great value at $27.” —B. Gillespie
Pelton House
2005 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $45
“This is a new brand from a great vineyard farmed by Jess Jackson's family company. It's made by a Chilean woman, Marcia Monahan, who planted some carmenère on the property to blend in with this cabernet. A vineyard to watch.” —J. Greene
Sweet & Complex
Dr. Loosen
2006 Mosel Riesling Beerenauslese $25
“This is all from Bernkasteler Lay, harvested from early–developing botrytis. Don't be fooled by the price. This is serious BA, made by one of the masters of the style. It could be the greatest value in dessert wine currently on the market.” —P. Liem
“I'd drink it with baked apricot stuffed with mascarpone.” —R. Pierce
“For me, this is like pumpkin, some candied pumpkin dessert. Even a pumpkin soup.” —M. Mendoza
Royal Tokaji Wine Company
2003 Tokaji 5 Puttonyos $39
“Tokaji really have a niche. It's definitely not riesling, definitely not Sauternes. It's its own thing with a unique place on the menu.”
—R. Pierce
“Tokaji used to be considered one of the finest wines in the world; this wine ranks up there, without the price tag to match. It's opulent, with golden apricot, orange, beeswax and smoke flavors, with vibrant acidity that wraps it tightly and will keep this going for at least another twenty years.” —T.Q. Thomas
“I'm getting such a hit of orange. A wine for orange mousse.” —M. Mendoza
Loel
Cyprus Commandaria $12
“It's got a lot of salty, nutty characteristics. This would go well with aged Manchego, and would make a nice aperitif.”
—E. Railsback
“Where else in the world can you find a satin–textured wine laden with figgy fruit, spice and molasses notes for $12? A glass is all you need for dessert, and a little goes a long way.” —T.Q. Thomas
Quinta do Vesuvio
2005 Porto $63
“It tastes really great this young, but I'd keep it for twenty years.” —J. Kosseff
“And it will easily live that long. Vesuvio is only ever made as a single–quinta Port; it's one of the Symington family's best properties.” —J. Greene
“For a young Port like this, pairing it with a Roquefort is perfect. There's a wonderful balance.” —E. Kelley
Croft
2005 Porto Quinta da Roeda $47
“It has a classic profile and needs some age. An excellent value in a Vintage Port. Some of the sweeter wines tend to be more exuberant; this one's a little drier.” —S. Goldun
“The Taylor Fonseca group purchased Roeda in 2001 and the work they've done on the vineyard is beginning to show in this 2005. It's a legendary site, and will likely regain its reputation as a top vineyard in the years to come. Which makes it a great buy at the moment.” —J. Greene
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2003 Coteaux du Languedoc $17
“It’s a nice entry into southern France, the wood gives you some familiarity, yet it’s all Rhône varietals in its expression.” —J. Marvin
“Particularly in the hot vintage of 2003, this stands out for its woodsy, earthy flavors, stony minerality and firm tannin. It’s a syrah with some restraint.” —T.Q. Thomas
“A wine for sausages, merguez, Basque sausage.” —E. Kelley
Yalumba
2006 Barossa Bush Vine Grenache $16
“There’s a nice violet floral aroma, but it’s a big wine, very sweet, very ripe. It’s like Châteauneuf-du-Pape in a super-hot year.” —R. Clement
“It’s ripe, but it’s got some acid; there’s a sort of sweet-tart thing with the sugar.” —R. Pierce
“Total chick wine; all those flowers and sweet raspberry fruit.” —M. Mendoza
d’Arenberg
2005 McLaren Vale
d’Arry’s Original Shiraz–Grenache $19
“This may have grenache but it’s much deeper and smokier than the Yalumba.” —R. Pierce
“And it’s got those big, dark chewy tannins that signals shiraz.” —M. Mendoza
“It’s a great, old-fashioned McLaren Vale red, the kind of classical, old-vine blend you don’t see around much anymore. It’s named for Chester Osborn’s father, who first made it in the 1960s. This 2005 is one of their best yet.” —J. Greene
“It’s really voluptuous, great with venison with porcini and bacon.” —C. Tanghe
Penfolds
2004 South Australia Bin 389
Cabernet–Shiraz $28
“It’s got big, black fruit, and lots of cassis and kir. It doesn’t have too much heat, and it’s got some cabernet to mellow it out. It’s an all-things-to-all people wine. It’s somewhat light on its feet, so you could drink it in the summer, but it’s also hearty enough for the winter.” —A. Weil
“It’s also a wine you can use to start a collection. This will age for fifteen years or more.” —J. Greene
Boomtown
2006 Columbia Valley Syrah $15
“It’s got that sexy layer of oak. I see lots of people liking it a lot. It’s not as dark and tannic as the Penfolds.” —E. Railsback
“I loved this wine. It has a lot of red berry fruit and it’s easy to drink.” —E. Moro
Gordon Brothers
2005 Columbia Valley Syrah $19
“It’s hearty, with a lot of black cherry and toffee flavor—a wine that’ll go with a steak or barbecue, anything with a bit of spice and strong flavors.” —S. Goldun
“This needs grilled red meat.” —J. Kosseff
“Or even Korean BBQ, the balance between the sweetness and the spice in both the food and the wine would work.” —E. Kelley
Qupé
2006 Central Coast Syrah $17
“One of my favorite value wines year in and out. Blackberry, peppery and clean. This is the first California wine I ever collected. The prices were—still are—low.” —J. Heber
“This works with deep south, saucy barbecue. Or a lot of the sesame-flavored pan-Asian dishes.” — J. Kosseff
Philippe Faury
2005 St-Joseph $28
“How clovey is that? You get all these white flowers too.” —R. Pierce
“I dig it. It’s just full-on syrah from sandy soils, very light, very pretty, and no oak at all. I’d serve it with cassoulet.”—E. Porto Carreiro
“Or a cold venison salad with rocket. This wine is a ‘Hepburn’—sleek and elegant. The color’s really beautiful, too. And look at this, it’s 12.8 percent alcohol.” —M. Mendoza
Parducci
2004 Mendocino
True Grit Petite Sirah $25
“This has those textbook chewy tannins of petite, that cocoa powder thing that happens with the tannins.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“It has just a terrific amount of potential; it will evolve so much over the years.”
—R. Clement
“This wine is all about John Wayne, western food. Well there, pilgrim….ribs off the grill, or ribs with some sweet, herbed rub, maybe a little vinegar in the barbecue sauce.”
—M. Mendoza
Mediterranean/
Iberian Varieties
Chakana
2006 Mendoza Bonarda $11
“There’s a delicate balance between something that’s fresh and good, and something that’s watery and poorly made. This is not at all watery. It’s light and it’s fresh.” —A. Weil
“If you don’t know bonarda, this Chakana is a great way to taste the red fruit flavors and vibrant acidity of the grape.” —P. Tapia
Quinta do Encontro
2004 Bairrada Q do E $9
“This is really good for a nine-dollar wine. It’s a fuller-bodied red with a bit of oak—lots of vanilla notes—but it’s easily approachable. It’s got light tannins, which make it easy to drink.”—E. Railsback
“The baga grape in Bairrada can often be unrelentingly tannic. Here it’s deliciously spicy, especially with grilled lamb.” —J. Greene
Dona Maria
2005 Alentejano VR $17
“This is fantastic. It’s got lots of sweet black fruit, leather and smoke, and earth. It’s powerful and the grippy tannins would be great with braised short ribs or some other braised meat dish. It’s definitely a food wine—it really has the acidity and the tannin structure for it.” —C. Tanghe
“It’s going to go with any sort of grilled steak, spiced meats.” —J. Heber
“Or with Portuguese cheeses, like Serra da Estrela.” —E. Kelley
Gordonzello Peregrino
2005 Tierras de León
Roble Prieto Picudo $18
“It really needs salty Iberian tapas.”
—J. Kosseff
“This Peregrino feels like a refreshing black cherry sorbet, precisely the way Prieto Picudo should taste.” —P. Tapia
Marqués de Cáceres
2001 Rioja Reserva $23
“It has such a soft, fleshy cherry fruit, such a lovely texture.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“A velvety wine, this is really delicious…it took seven years to make that texture.” —M. Mendoza
“It’s a wine for grilled lamb, or beef. That earthiness would pair with mushrooms, to go along with the meat.” —P.J. Comiskey
Ridge
2006 Sonoma County
Three Valleys Zinfandel $22
“It’s bright and tasty. I definitely don’t like a lot of zins; usually the color is so dense that you can’t even see through it. Here, the alcohol is low enough. It’s very refreshing for a zinfandel, not at all over the top. It has some carignan, which seems to lighten it up a bit.” —E. Railsback
Frog’s Leap
2006 Napa Valley Zinfandel $27
“A classic claret-style zin—this has a lot of acidity. It’s not jammy. What’s really cool about it is that comes from organic, dry-farmed vineyards, which is significant because Napa’s sort of irrigation-heavy. Zinfandel in particular seems to respond really well to dry farming. The other thing I love about this wine is that it’s 13.5 alcohol, which is less than most cabs, and this is a zin, which is supposed to be big and bad.” —W. Weber
Italian Reds
Librandi
2004 Cirò Duca San Felice Riserva $18
“I like that it’s fairly light in color, and it’s still rustic and hearty—this would go great with lamb with garlic and herbs. The wine can actually stand up to some pretty heavy foods.” —S. Goldun
“I order this almost every time I go to Pizzeria Delfina in San Francisco. We drank Cirò all summer when I lived in Rome, and when I have it here it just takes me back. The acidity and funky, earthy fruit flavors are totally Italian.” —W. Weber
Fattoria La Peschiera
2005 Morellino di Scansano $17
“The ideal combination of dried fruit, grainy tannins, acidity.” —J. Kosseff
“It’s a steal at the price, with all that structure and flavor, you could even lay it down.”
—J. Marvin
“Drink it with steak tagliatta, a rare steak grilled and tossed with salad.” —J. Heber
Melini
2005 Chianti Classico Isassi $15
“I get a lot of rose petal. Maybe dried rose petal. There’s some dried meat in there too…this is a palate wine. It’s delicious.” —R. Clement
“Serve it with duck with cherries.” —M. Mendoza
“Or it’s juicy enough to go with a capicola sandwich.” —R. Pierce
Le Macchiole
2005 Bolgheri Rosso $32
“Surprisingly accessible. I think it’s the best wine I’ve had today. Very New World style. But it’s so plush, so concentrated. I’d serve it with Kobe beef.” —M. Mendoza
“This estate grows one of the best cabernet francs in the world. The Bolgheri Rosso is one-third the price—a selection from the younger merlot and cab franc vines with a little syrah and sangiovese. It’s a way in to one of the great vineyards of Tuscany.”
—J. Greene
Abbazia di Novacella
2006 Alto Adige Lagrein $27
“This lagrein’s got a lot of concentration, but it doesn’t have the typical tough tannins. It has bright cherry fruit, and the acidity feels fresh in your mouth. Just classic.” —E. Railsback
“This has the freshness and the spice of a great red from the Italian Alps. The acidity makes it really versatile. It’s too light for steak, but with that acidity it needs something with a little bit of fat…like a grilled bone-in pork chop.” —W. Weber
Il Roncal
2005 Colli Orientali del Friuli
Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso $22
“The tart, bright cherry fruit makes your mouth pucker. It has a classic earthiness. I think it’s a wine to drink in a year or two, though. Not right away.” —E. Railsback
“I love refosco for its juicy fruitiness and freshness. This has considerable depth yet it doesn’t feel heavy, thanks to a lively balance of acidity and tannin.” —P. Liem
Poderi Luigi Einaudi
2006 Dolcetto di Dogliani $22
“This is a sexy wine. The nose isn’t so hard to figure out, and you just want to taste it.” — J. Kosseff
“Dogliani always has intense, structured dolcettos. This one is a bird wine: game hen, quail.” —J. Heber
Cantina del Pino
2005 Barbera d’Alba $32
“Barbera d’Alba will always be the younger brother of the bigger Piedmontese wines—a wine that speaks to youth and energy. Very primary with fruit while being playful and spicy. With slow-roasted baby back ribs—this would be my Old World alternative to zinfandel this summer.” —N. Daquip
“The acidity in barbera makes it one of my go-to red wines. You can drink it with almost anything. This one also shows a sense of minerality, a firmness and satisfying flavor.” —W. Weber
Damilano
2005 Nebbiolo d’Alba $21
“It’s an amazing wine for the money. The distance between Barolo and Alba is like the distance between Echo Park and Silver Lake, but the grape can still perform, hill to hill.” —R. Clement
“It’s so elegant and balanced. This is the best value of them all.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“It actually smells a little bit like Fernet. No, really, it's like Averna. It's killer.”
—M. Mendoza
Cabernet Family
Snoqualmie
2006 Columbia Valley Merlot $10
“This is a great little wine for ten dollars.” —R. Pierce
“It has some classic Washington merlot elements, a nice red berry lightness and succulent texture. There's a little creamy caramel wood flavor on the finish. It's easy to drink on its own.” —Patrick J. Comiskey
Santa Rita
2006 Rapel Valley Reserva Carmenère $14
“A textbook carmenère, this offers bell peppers and chocolatey flavors surrounded by a mellow, round texture.” —P. Tapia
“The vegetal nose reminds me of cabernet franc. It's a wine for the more adventurous. This brings in different flavors and textures and florals, more than just dark fruit and oak. It would work really well with cassoulet—pork sausage, beef tongue and duck confit.
Morandé
2005 Maipo Valley
Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon $17
“It's not so green that it's over the top and it doesn't have a big fat oak presence. The acidity gives it its brightness.” —E. Railsback
Bodegas Nieto Senetiner
2005 Mendoza Don Nicanor Malbec $17
“My marker for malbec is that it looks like syrah but it tastes like cabernet.” —J. Heber
“This is a voluptuous and ripe example of the grape. It seems it was made for Argentine asado.” —P. Tapia
Caro
2006 Mendoza Amancaya $20
“This really shows its Bordeaux roots, with a great texture.” —J. Kosseff
“This is a joint venture between Catena and Lafite–Rothschild in Bordeaux. Their top wine, “Caro,” is twice as expensive. Amancaya has more malbec in the blend, meant for early drinking.” —J. Greene
“For the price, this is really good, and it's showing better now than the Caro.”
—J. Heber
Tamarack
2006 Columbia Valley Firehouse Red $20
“This is a kitchen–sink blend from great vineyards all over the Columbia Valley—it's routinely one of the state's best bang–for–the–buck reds. The 2006 is juicy and rich, with a healthy slug of chocolatey oak to hold all that fruit together.” —P.J. Comiskey
“It smells like a caramel macchiato. I'd serve this with beef bourguignon.”
—E. Porto Carreiro
Chateau Ste. Michelle
2005 Columbia Valley Indian Wells Cabernet Sauvignon $19
“Foursquare and dark–fruited, this has black cherry and plum flavors grounded by firm tannin.” —P.J. Comiskey
“It fits in with a rib–eye steak.” —R. Clement
Cadence
2006 Columbia Valley Coda $25
“This has a lot of red fruit, like cranberry. It's a perfect prime rib wine. It's delicate and not at all in your face, like a lot of other Washington wines.” —A. Weil
“Ben Smith's wines are elegant and satisfying, and this is a great way to get to know his style.” —W. Weber
Chateau Phélan–Ségur
2004 St–Estèphe $25
“This is a vintage for people who are long on time and short on money.” —A. Weil
“Many of the '04s from St–Estèphe are sort of unforgiving as young wines. This one is easy to drink. It has a clean fruit quality, a lot of complexity, a lot of layers. It needs some cellaring to show off what it's got…a great counter to expensive California cabernets, and a fantastic value for Left Bank Bordeaux.” —S. Goldun
“I finished up some '89 Phélan two years ago, just when it was beginning to fade. Still working on a case of 2000. This 2004 will keep beautifully—one of the more elegant wines from St–Estèphe.” —J. Greene
Beringer
2005 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $27
“This is a big rich wine, made for a steak. At the price, it delivers a lot in terms of value.”
—J. Kosseff
“Wines from that area can easily be up to $230. This one has nice length and a beautiful nose. The mouthfeel is very velvety. It's a great value at $27.” —B. Gillespie
Pelton House
2005 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $45
“This is a new brand from a great vineyard farmed by Jess Jackson's family company. It's made by a Chilean woman, Marcia Monahan, who planted some carmenère on the property to blend in with this cabernet. A vineyard to watch.” —J. Greene
Sweet & Complex
Dr. Loosen
2006 Mosel Riesling Beerenauslese $25
“This is all from Bernkasteler Lay, harvested from early–developing botrytis. Don't be fooled by the price. This is serious BA, made by one of the masters of the style. It could be the greatest value in dessert wine currently on the market.” —P. Liem
“I'd drink it with baked apricot stuffed with mascarpone.” —R. Pierce
“For me, this is like pumpkin, some candied pumpkin dessert. Even a pumpkin soup.” —M. Mendoza
Royal Tokaji Wine Company
2003 Tokaji 5 Puttonyos $39
“Tokaji really have a niche. It's definitely not riesling, definitely not Sauternes. It's its own thing with a unique place on the menu.”
—R. Pierce
“Tokaji used to be considered one of the finest wines in the world; this wine ranks up there, without the price tag to match. It's opulent, with golden apricot, orange, beeswax and smoke flavors, with vibrant acidity that wraps it tightly and will keep this going for at least another twenty years.” —T.Q. Thomas
“I'm getting such a hit of orange. A wine for orange mousse.” —M. Mendoza
Loel
Cyprus Commandaria $12
“It's got a lot of salty, nutty characteristics. This would go well with aged Manchego, and would make a nice aperitif.”
—E. Railsback
“Where else in the world can you find a satin–textured wine laden with figgy fruit, spice and molasses notes for $12? A glass is all you need for dessert, and a little goes a long way.” —T.Q. Thomas
Quinta do Vesuvio
2005 Porto $63
“It tastes really great this young, but I'd keep it for twenty years.” —J. Kosseff
“And it will easily live that long. Vesuvio is only ever made as a single–quinta Port; it's one of the Symington family's best properties.” —J. Greene
“For a young Port like this, pairing it with a Roquefort is perfect. There's a wonderful balance.” —E. Kelley
Croft
2005 Porto Quinta da Roeda $47
“It has a classic profile and needs some age. An excellent value in a Vintage Port. Some of the sweeter wines tend to be more exuberant; this one's a little drier.” —S. Goldun
“The Taylor Fonseca group purchased Roeda in 2001 and the work they've done on the vineyard is beginning to show in this 2005. It's a legendary site, and will likely regain its reputation as a top vineyard in the years to come. Which makes it a great buy at the moment.” —J. Greene
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2005 McLaren Vale d’Arry’s Original Shiraz–Grenache $19
“This may have grenache but it’s much deeper and smokier than the Yalumba.” —R. Pierce
“And it’s got those big, dark chewy tannins that signals shiraz.” —M. Mendoza
“It’s a great, old-fashioned McLaren Vale red, the kind of classical, old-vine blend you don’t see around much anymore. It’s named for Chester Osborn’s father, who first made it in the 1960s. This 2005 is one of their best yet.” —J. Greene
“It’s really voluptuous, great with venison with porcini and bacon.” —C. Tanghe
Penfolds
2004 South Australia Bin 389
Cabernet–Shiraz $28
“It’s got big, black fruit, and lots of cassis and kir. It doesn’t have too much heat, and it’s got some cabernet to mellow it out. It’s an all-things-to-all people wine. It’s somewhat light on its feet, so you could drink it in the summer, but it’s also hearty enough for the winter.” —A. Weil
“It’s also a wine you can use to start a collection. This will age for fifteen years or more.” —J. Greene
Boomtown
2006 Columbia Valley Syrah $15
“It’s got that sexy layer of oak. I see lots of people liking it a lot. It’s not as dark and tannic as the Penfolds.” —E. Railsback
“I loved this wine. It has a lot of red berry fruit and it’s easy to drink.” —E. Moro
Gordon Brothers
2005 Columbia Valley Syrah $19
“It’s hearty, with a lot of black cherry and toffee flavor—a wine that’ll go with a steak or barbecue, anything with a bit of spice and strong flavors.” —S. Goldun
“This needs grilled red meat.” —J. Kosseff
“Or even Korean BBQ, the balance between the sweetness and the spice in both the food and the wine would work.” —E. Kelley
Qupé
2006 Central Coast Syrah $17
“One of my favorite value wines year in and out. Blackberry, peppery and clean. This is the first California wine I ever collected. The prices were—still are—low.” —J. Heber
“This works with deep south, saucy barbecue. Or a lot of the sesame-flavored pan-Asian dishes.” — J. Kosseff
Philippe Faury
2005 St-Joseph $28
“How clovey is that? You get all these white flowers too.” —R. Pierce
“I dig it. It’s just full-on syrah from sandy soils, very light, very pretty, and no oak at all. I’d serve it with cassoulet.”—E. Porto Carreiro
“Or a cold venison salad with rocket. This wine is a ‘Hepburn’—sleek and elegant. The color’s really beautiful, too. And look at this, it’s 12.8 percent alcohol.” —M. Mendoza
Parducci
2004 Mendocino
True Grit Petite Sirah $25
“This has those textbook chewy tannins of petite, that cocoa powder thing that happens with the tannins.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“It has just a terrific amount of potential; it will evolve so much over the years.”
—R. Clement
“This wine is all about John Wayne, western food. Well there, pilgrim….ribs off the grill, or ribs with some sweet, herbed rub, maybe a little vinegar in the barbecue sauce.”
—M. Mendoza
Mediterranean/
Iberian Varieties
Chakana
2006 Mendoza Bonarda $11
“There’s a delicate balance between something that’s fresh and good, and something that’s watery and poorly made. This is not at all watery. It’s light and it’s fresh.” —A. Weil
“If you don’t know bonarda, this Chakana is a great way to taste the red fruit flavors and vibrant acidity of the grape.” —P. Tapia
Quinta do Encontro
2004 Bairrada Q do E $9
“This is really good for a nine-dollar wine. It’s a fuller-bodied red with a bit of oak—lots of vanilla notes—but it’s easily approachable. It’s got light tannins, which make it easy to drink.”—E. Railsback
“The baga grape in Bairrada can often be unrelentingly tannic. Here it’s deliciously spicy, especially with grilled lamb.” —J. Greene
Dona Maria
2005 Alentejano VR $17
“This is fantastic. It’s got lots of sweet black fruit, leather and smoke, and earth. It’s powerful and the grippy tannins would be great with braised short ribs or some other braised meat dish. It’s definitely a food wine—it really has the acidity and the tannin structure for it.” —C. Tanghe
“It’s going to go with any sort of grilled steak, spiced meats.” —J. Heber
“Or with Portuguese cheeses, like Serra da Estrela.” —E. Kelley
Gordonzello Peregrino
2005 Tierras de León
Roble Prieto Picudo $18
“It really needs salty Iberian tapas.”
—J. Kosseff
“This Peregrino feels like a refreshing black cherry sorbet, precisely the way Prieto Picudo should taste.” —P. Tapia
Marqués de Cáceres
2001 Rioja Reserva $23
“It has such a soft, fleshy cherry fruit, such a lovely texture.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“A velvety wine, this is really delicious…it took seven years to make that texture.” —M. Mendoza
“It’s a wine for grilled lamb, or beef. That earthiness would pair with mushrooms, to go along with the meat.” —P.J. Comiskey
Ridge
2006 Sonoma County
Three Valleys Zinfandel $22
“It’s bright and tasty. I definitely don’t like a lot of zins; usually the color is so dense that you can’t even see through it. Here, the alcohol is low enough. It’s very refreshing for a zinfandel, not at all over the top. It has some carignan, which seems to lighten it up a bit.” —E. Railsback
Frog’s Leap
2006 Napa Valley Zinfandel $27
“A classic claret-style zin—this has a lot of acidity. It’s not jammy. What’s really cool about it is that comes from organic, dry-farmed vineyards, which is significant because Napa’s sort of irrigation-heavy. Zinfandel in particular seems to respond really well to dry farming. The other thing I love about this wine is that it’s 13.5 alcohol, which is less than most cabs, and this is a zin, which is supposed to be big and bad.” —W. Weber
Italian Reds
Librandi
2004 Cirò Duca San Felice Riserva $18
“I like that it’s fairly light in color, and it’s still rustic and hearty—this would go great with lamb with garlic and herbs. The wine can actually stand up to some pretty heavy foods.” —S. Goldun
“I order this almost every time I go to Pizzeria Delfina in San Francisco. We drank Cirò all summer when I lived in Rome, and when I have it here it just takes me back. The acidity and funky, earthy fruit flavors are totally Italian.” —W. Weber
Fattoria La Peschiera
2005 Morellino di Scansano $17
“The ideal combination of dried fruit, grainy tannins, acidity.” —J. Kosseff
“It’s a steal at the price, with all that structure and flavor, you could even lay it down.”
—J. Marvin
“Drink it with steak tagliatta, a rare steak grilled and tossed with salad.” —J. Heber
Melini
2005 Chianti Classico Isassi $15
“I get a lot of rose petal. Maybe dried rose petal. There’s some dried meat in there too…this is a palate wine. It’s delicious.” —R. Clement
“Serve it with duck with cherries.” —M. Mendoza
“Or it’s juicy enough to go with a capicola sandwich.” —R. Pierce
Le Macchiole
2005 Bolgheri Rosso $32
“Surprisingly accessible. I think it’s the best wine I’ve had today. Very New World style. But it’s so plush, so concentrated. I’d serve it with Kobe beef.” —M. Mendoza
“This estate grows one of the best cabernet francs in the world. The Bolgheri Rosso is one-third the price—a selection from the younger merlot and cab franc vines with a little syrah and sangiovese. It’s a way in to one of the great vineyards of Tuscany.”
—J. Greene
Abbazia di Novacella
2006 Alto Adige Lagrein $27
“This lagrein’s got a lot of concentration, but it doesn’t have the typical tough tannins. It has bright cherry fruit, and the acidity feels fresh in your mouth. Just classic.” —E. Railsback
“This has the freshness and the spice of a great red from the Italian Alps. The acidity makes it really versatile. It’s too light for steak, but with that acidity it needs something with a little bit of fat…like a grilled bone-in pork chop.” —W. Weber
Il Roncal
2005 Colli Orientali del Friuli
Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso $22
“The tart, bright cherry fruit makes your mouth pucker. It has a classic earthiness. I think it’s a wine to drink in a year or two, though. Not right away.” —E. Railsback
“I love refosco for its juicy fruitiness and freshness. This has considerable depth yet it doesn’t feel heavy, thanks to a lively balance of acidity and tannin.” —P. Liem
Poderi Luigi Einaudi
2006 Dolcetto di Dogliani $22
“This is a sexy wine. The nose isn’t so hard to figure out, and you just want to taste it.” — J. Kosseff
“Dogliani always has intense, structured dolcettos. This one is a bird wine: game hen, quail.” —J. Heber
Cantina del Pino
2005 Barbera d’Alba $32
“Barbera d’Alba will always be the younger brother of the bigger Piedmontese wines—a wine that speaks to youth and energy. Very primary with fruit while being playful and spicy. With slow-roasted baby back ribs—this would be my Old World alternative to zinfandel this summer.” —N. Daquip
“The acidity in barbera makes it one of my go-to red wines. You can drink it with almost anything. This one also shows a sense of minerality, a firmness and satisfying flavor.” —W. Weber
Damilano
2005 Nebbiolo d’Alba $21
“It’s an amazing wine for the money. The distance between Barolo and Alba is like the distance between Echo Park and Silver Lake, but the grape can still perform, hill to hill.” —R. Clement
“It’s so elegant and balanced. This is the best value of them all.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“It actually smells a little bit like Fernet. No, really, it's like Averna. It's killer.”
—M. Mendoza
Cabernet Family
Snoqualmie
2006 Columbia Valley Merlot $10
“This is a great little wine for ten dollars.” —R. Pierce
“It has some classic Washington merlot elements, a nice red berry lightness and succulent texture. There's a little creamy caramel wood flavor on the finish. It's easy to drink on its own.” —Patrick J. Comiskey
Santa Rita
2006 Rapel Valley Reserva Carmenère $14
“A textbook carmenère, this offers bell peppers and chocolatey flavors surrounded by a mellow, round texture.” —P. Tapia
“The vegetal nose reminds me of cabernet franc. It's a wine for the more adventurous. This brings in different flavors and textures and florals, more than just dark fruit and oak. It would work really well with cassoulet—pork sausage, beef tongue and duck confit.
Morandé
2005 Maipo Valley
Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon $17
“It's not so green that it's over the top and it doesn't have a big fat oak presence. The acidity gives it its brightness.” —E. Railsback
Bodegas Nieto Senetiner
2005 Mendoza Don Nicanor Malbec $17
“My marker for malbec is that it looks like syrah but it tastes like cabernet.” —J. Heber
“This is a voluptuous and ripe example of the grape. It seems it was made for Argentine asado.” —P. Tapia
Caro
2006 Mendoza Amancaya $20
“This really shows its Bordeaux roots, with a great texture.” —J. Kosseff
“This is a joint venture between Catena and Lafite–Rothschild in Bordeaux. Their top wine, “Caro,” is twice as expensive. Amancaya has more malbec in the blend, meant for early drinking.” —J. Greene
“For the price, this is really good, and it's showing better now than the Caro.”
—J. Heber
Tamarack
2006 Columbia Valley Firehouse Red $20
“This is a kitchen–sink blend from great vineyards all over the Columbia Valley—it's routinely one of the state's best bang–for–the–buck reds. The 2006 is juicy and rich, with a healthy slug of chocolatey oak to hold all that fruit together.” —P.J. Comiskey
“It smells like a caramel macchiato. I'd serve this with beef bourguignon.”
—E. Porto Carreiro
Chateau Ste. Michelle
2005 Columbia Valley Indian Wells Cabernet Sauvignon $19
“Foursquare and dark–fruited, this has black cherry and plum flavors grounded by firm tannin.” —P.J. Comiskey
“It fits in with a rib–eye steak.” —R. Clement
Cadence
2006 Columbia Valley Coda $25
“This has a lot of red fruit, like cranberry. It's a perfect prime rib wine. It's delicate and not at all in your face, like a lot of other Washington wines.” —A. Weil
“Ben Smith's wines are elegant and satisfying, and this is a great way to get to know his style.” —W. Weber
Chateau Phélan–Ségur
2004 St–Estèphe $25
“This is a vintage for people who are long on time and short on money.” —A. Weil
“Many of the '04s from St–Estèphe are sort of unforgiving as young wines. This one is easy to drink. It has a clean fruit quality, a lot of complexity, a lot of layers. It needs some cellaring to show off what it's got…a great counter to expensive California cabernets, and a fantastic value for Left Bank Bordeaux.” —S. Goldun
“I finished up some '89 Phélan two years ago, just when it was beginning to fade. Still working on a case of 2000. This 2004 will keep beautifully—one of the more elegant wines from St–Estèphe.” —J. Greene
Beringer
2005 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $27
“This is a big rich wine, made for a steak. At the price, it delivers a lot in terms of value.”
—J. Kosseff
“Wines from that area can easily be up to $230. This one has nice length and a beautiful nose. The mouthfeel is very velvety. It's a great value at $27.” —B. Gillespie
Pelton House
2005 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $45
“This is a new brand from a great vineyard farmed by Jess Jackson's family company. It's made by a Chilean woman, Marcia Monahan, who planted some carmenère on the property to blend in with this cabernet. A vineyard to watch.” —J. Greene
Sweet & Complex
Dr. Loosen
2006 Mosel Riesling Beerenauslese $25
“This is all from Bernkasteler Lay, harvested from early–developing botrytis. Don't be fooled by the price. This is serious BA, made by one of the masters of the style. It could be the greatest value in dessert wine currently on the market.” —P. Liem
“I'd drink it with baked apricot stuffed with mascarpone.” —R. Pierce
“For me, this is like pumpkin, some candied pumpkin dessert. Even a pumpkin soup.” —M. Mendoza
Royal Tokaji Wine Company
2003 Tokaji 5 Puttonyos $39
“Tokaji really have a niche. It's definitely not riesling, definitely not Sauternes. It's its own thing with a unique place on the menu.”
—R. Pierce
“Tokaji used to be considered one of the finest wines in the world; this wine ranks up there, without the price tag to match. It's opulent, with golden apricot, orange, beeswax and smoke flavors, with vibrant acidity that wraps it tightly and will keep this going for at least another twenty years.” —T.Q. Thomas
“I'm getting such a hit of orange. A wine for orange mousse.” —M. Mendoza
Loel
Cyprus Commandaria $12
“It's got a lot of salty, nutty characteristics. This would go well with aged Manchego, and would make a nice aperitif.”
—E. Railsback
“Where else in the world can you find a satin–textured wine laden with figgy fruit, spice and molasses notes for $12? A glass is all you need for dessert, and a little goes a long way.” —T.Q. Thomas
Quinta do Vesuvio
2005 Porto $63
“It tastes really great this young, but I'd keep it for twenty years.” —J. Kosseff
“And it will easily live that long. Vesuvio is only ever made as a single–quinta Port; it's one of the Symington family's best properties.” —J. Greene
“For a young Port like this, pairing it with a Roquefort is perfect. There's a wonderful balance.” —E. Kelley
Croft
2005 Porto Quinta da Roeda $47
“It has a classic profile and needs some age. An excellent value in a Vintage Port. Some of the sweeter wines tend to be more exuberant; this one's a little drier.” —S. Goldun
“The Taylor Fonseca group purchased Roeda in 2001 and the work they've done on the vineyard is beginning to show in this 2005. It's a legendary site, and will likely regain its reputation as a top vineyard in the years to come. Which makes it a great buy at the moment.” —J. Greene
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2006 Columbia Valley Syrah $15
“It’s got that sexy layer of oak. I see lots of people liking it a lot. It’s not as dark and tannic as the Penfolds.” —E. Railsback
“I loved this wine. It has a lot of red berry fruit and it’s easy to drink.” —E. Moro
Gordon Brothers
2005 Columbia Valley Syrah $19
“It’s hearty, with a lot of black cherry and toffee flavor—a wine that’ll go with a steak or barbecue, anything with a bit of spice and strong flavors.” —S. Goldun
“This needs grilled red meat.” —J. Kosseff
“Or even Korean BBQ, the balance between the sweetness and the spice in both the food and the wine would work.” —E. Kelley
Qupé
2006 Central Coast Syrah $17
“One of my favorite value wines year in and out. Blackberry, peppery and clean. This is the first California wine I ever collected. The prices were—still are—low.” —J. Heber
“This works with deep south, saucy barbecue. Or a lot of the sesame-flavored pan-Asian dishes.” — J. Kosseff
Philippe Faury
2005 St-Joseph $28
“How clovey is that? You get all these white flowers too.” —R. Pierce
“I dig it. It’s just full-on syrah from sandy soils, very light, very pretty, and no oak at all. I’d serve it with cassoulet.”—E. Porto Carreiro
“Or a cold venison salad with rocket. This wine is a ‘Hepburn’—sleek and elegant. The color’s really beautiful, too. And look at this, it’s 12.8 percent alcohol.” —M. Mendoza
Parducci
2004 Mendocino
True Grit Petite Sirah $25
“This has those textbook chewy tannins of petite, that cocoa powder thing that happens with the tannins.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“It has just a terrific amount of potential; it will evolve so much over the years.”
—R. Clement
“This wine is all about John Wayne, western food. Well there, pilgrim….ribs off the grill, or ribs with some sweet, herbed rub, maybe a little vinegar in the barbecue sauce.”
—M. Mendoza
Mediterranean/
Iberian Varieties
Chakana
2006 Mendoza Bonarda $11
“There’s a delicate balance between something that’s fresh and good, and something that’s watery and poorly made. This is not at all watery. It’s light and it’s fresh.” —A. Weil
“If you don’t know bonarda, this Chakana is a great way to taste the red fruit flavors and vibrant acidity of the grape.” —P. Tapia
Quinta do Encontro
2004 Bairrada Q do E $9
“This is really good for a nine-dollar wine. It’s a fuller-bodied red with a bit of oak—lots of vanilla notes—but it’s easily approachable. It’s got light tannins, which make it easy to drink.”—E. Railsback
“The baga grape in Bairrada can often be unrelentingly tannic. Here it’s deliciously spicy, especially with grilled lamb.” —J. Greene
Dona Maria
2005 Alentejano VR $17
“This is fantastic. It’s got lots of sweet black fruit, leather and smoke, and earth. It’s powerful and the grippy tannins would be great with braised short ribs or some other braised meat dish. It’s definitely a food wine—it really has the acidity and the tannin structure for it.” —C. Tanghe
“It’s going to go with any sort of grilled steak, spiced meats.” —J. Heber
“Or with Portuguese cheeses, like Serra da Estrela.” —E. Kelley
Gordonzello Peregrino
2005 Tierras de León
Roble Prieto Picudo $18
“It really needs salty Iberian tapas.”
—J. Kosseff
“This Peregrino feels like a refreshing black cherry sorbet, precisely the way Prieto Picudo should taste.” —P. Tapia
Marqués de Cáceres
2001 Rioja Reserva $23
“It has such a soft, fleshy cherry fruit, such a lovely texture.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“A velvety wine, this is really delicious…it took seven years to make that texture.” —M. Mendoza
“It’s a wine for grilled lamb, or beef. That earthiness would pair with mushrooms, to go along with the meat.” —P.J. Comiskey
Ridge
2006 Sonoma County
Three Valleys Zinfandel $22
“It’s bright and tasty. I definitely don’t like a lot of zins; usually the color is so dense that you can’t even see through it. Here, the alcohol is low enough. It’s very refreshing for a zinfandel, not at all over the top. It has some carignan, which seems to lighten it up a bit.” —E. Railsback
Frog’s Leap
2006 Napa Valley Zinfandel $27
“A classic claret-style zin—this has a lot of acidity. It’s not jammy. What’s really cool about it is that comes from organic, dry-farmed vineyards, which is significant because Napa’s sort of irrigation-heavy. Zinfandel in particular seems to respond really well to dry farming. The other thing I love about this wine is that it’s 13.5 alcohol, which is less than most cabs, and this is a zin, which is supposed to be big and bad.” —W. Weber
Italian Reds
Librandi
2004 Cirò Duca San Felice Riserva $18
“I like that it’s fairly light in color, and it’s still rustic and hearty—this would go great with lamb with garlic and herbs. The wine can actually stand up to some pretty heavy foods.” —S. Goldun
“I order this almost every time I go to Pizzeria Delfina in San Francisco. We drank Cirò all summer when I lived in Rome, and when I have it here it just takes me back. The acidity and funky, earthy fruit flavors are totally Italian.” —W. Weber
Fattoria La Peschiera
2005 Morellino di Scansano $17
“The ideal combination of dried fruit, grainy tannins, acidity.” —J. Kosseff
“It’s a steal at the price, with all that structure and flavor, you could even lay it down.”
—J. Marvin
“Drink it with steak tagliatta, a rare steak grilled and tossed with salad.” —J. Heber
Melini
2005 Chianti Classico Isassi $15
“I get a lot of rose petal. Maybe dried rose petal. There’s some dried meat in there too…this is a palate wine. It’s delicious.” —R. Clement
“Serve it with duck with cherries.” —M. Mendoza
“Or it’s juicy enough to go with a capicola sandwich.” —R. Pierce
Le Macchiole
2005 Bolgheri Rosso $32
“Surprisingly accessible. I think it’s the best wine I’ve had today. Very New World style. But it’s so plush, so concentrated. I’d serve it with Kobe beef.” —M. Mendoza
“This estate grows one of the best cabernet francs in the world. The Bolgheri Rosso is one-third the price—a selection from the younger merlot and cab franc vines with a little syrah and sangiovese. It’s a way in to one of the great vineyards of Tuscany.”
—J. Greene
Abbazia di Novacella
2006 Alto Adige Lagrein $27
“This lagrein’s got a lot of concentration, but it doesn’t have the typical tough tannins. It has bright cherry fruit, and the acidity feels fresh in your mouth. Just classic.” —E. Railsback
“This has the freshness and the spice of a great red from the Italian Alps. The acidity makes it really versatile. It’s too light for steak, but with that acidity it needs something with a little bit of fat…like a grilled bone-in pork chop.” —W. Weber
Il Roncal
2005 Colli Orientali del Friuli
Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso $22
“The tart, bright cherry fruit makes your mouth pucker. It has a classic earthiness. I think it’s a wine to drink in a year or two, though. Not right away.” —E. Railsback
“I love refosco for its juicy fruitiness and freshness. This has considerable depth yet it doesn’t feel heavy, thanks to a lively balance of acidity and tannin.” —P. Liem
Poderi Luigi Einaudi
2006 Dolcetto di Dogliani $22
“This is a sexy wine. The nose isn’t so hard to figure out, and you just want to taste it.” — J. Kosseff
“Dogliani always has intense, structured dolcettos. This one is a bird wine: game hen, quail.” —J. Heber
Cantina del Pino
2005 Barbera d’Alba $32
“Barbera d’Alba will always be the younger brother of the bigger Piedmontese wines—a wine that speaks to youth and energy. Very primary with fruit while being playful and spicy. With slow-roasted baby back ribs—this would be my Old World alternative to zinfandel this summer.” —N. Daquip
“The acidity in barbera makes it one of my go-to red wines. You can drink it with almost anything. This one also shows a sense of minerality, a firmness and satisfying flavor.” —W. Weber
Damilano
2005 Nebbiolo d’Alba $21
“It’s an amazing wine for the money. The distance between Barolo and Alba is like the distance between Echo Park and Silver Lake, but the grape can still perform, hill to hill.” —R. Clement
“It’s so elegant and balanced. This is the best value of them all.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“It actually smells a little bit like Fernet. No, really, it's like Averna. It's killer.”
—M. Mendoza
Cabernet Family
Snoqualmie
2006 Columbia Valley Merlot $10
“This is a great little wine for ten dollars.” —R. Pierce
“It has some classic Washington merlot elements, a nice red berry lightness and succulent texture. There's a little creamy caramel wood flavor on the finish. It's easy to drink on its own.” —Patrick J. Comiskey
Santa Rita
2006 Rapel Valley Reserva Carmenère $14
“A textbook carmenère, this offers bell peppers and chocolatey flavors surrounded by a mellow, round texture.” —P. Tapia
“The vegetal nose reminds me of cabernet franc. It's a wine for the more adventurous. This brings in different flavors and textures and florals, more than just dark fruit and oak. It would work really well with cassoulet—pork sausage, beef tongue and duck confit.
Morandé
2005 Maipo Valley
Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon $17
“It's not so green that it's over the top and it doesn't have a big fat oak presence. The acidity gives it its brightness.” —E. Railsback
Bodegas Nieto Senetiner
2005 Mendoza Don Nicanor Malbec $17
“My marker for malbec is that it looks like syrah but it tastes like cabernet.” —J. Heber
“This is a voluptuous and ripe example of the grape. It seems it was made for Argentine asado.” —P. Tapia
Caro
2006 Mendoza Amancaya $20
“This really shows its Bordeaux roots, with a great texture.” —J. Kosseff
“This is a joint venture between Catena and Lafite–Rothschild in Bordeaux. Their top wine, “Caro,” is twice as expensive. Amancaya has more malbec in the blend, meant for early drinking.” —J. Greene
“For the price, this is really good, and it's showing better now than the Caro.”
—J. Heber
Tamarack
2006 Columbia Valley Firehouse Red $20
“This is a kitchen–sink blend from great vineyards all over the Columbia Valley—it's routinely one of the state's best bang–for–the–buck reds. The 2006 is juicy and rich, with a healthy slug of chocolatey oak to hold all that fruit together.” —P.J. Comiskey
“It smells like a caramel macchiato. I'd serve this with beef bourguignon.”
—E. Porto Carreiro
Chateau Ste. Michelle
2005 Columbia Valley Indian Wells Cabernet Sauvignon $19
“Foursquare and dark–fruited, this has black cherry and plum flavors grounded by firm tannin.” —P.J. Comiskey
“It fits in with a rib–eye steak.” —R. Clement
Cadence
2006 Columbia Valley Coda $25
“This has a lot of red fruit, like cranberry. It's a perfect prime rib wine. It's delicate and not at all in your face, like a lot of other Washington wines.” —A. Weil
“Ben Smith's wines are elegant and satisfying, and this is a great way to get to know his style.” —W. Weber
Chateau Phélan–Ségur
2004 St–Estèphe $25
“This is a vintage for people who are long on time and short on money.” —A. Weil
“Many of the '04s from St–Estèphe are sort of unforgiving as young wines. This one is easy to drink. It has a clean fruit quality, a lot of complexity, a lot of layers. It needs some cellaring to show off what it's got…a great counter to expensive California cabernets, and a fantastic value for Left Bank Bordeaux.” —S. Goldun
“I finished up some '89 Phélan two years ago, just when it was beginning to fade. Still working on a case of 2000. This 2004 will keep beautifully—one of the more elegant wines from St–Estèphe.” —J. Greene
Beringer
2005 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $27
“This is a big rich wine, made for a steak. At the price, it delivers a lot in terms of value.”
—J. Kosseff
“Wines from that area can easily be up to $230. This one has nice length and a beautiful nose. The mouthfeel is very velvety. It's a great value at $27.” —B. Gillespie
Pelton House
2005 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $45
“This is a new brand from a great vineyard farmed by Jess Jackson's family company. It's made by a Chilean woman, Marcia Monahan, who planted some carmenère on the property to blend in with this cabernet. A vineyard to watch.” —J. Greene
Sweet & Complex
Dr. Loosen
2006 Mosel Riesling Beerenauslese $25
“This is all from Bernkasteler Lay, harvested from early–developing botrytis. Don't be fooled by the price. This is serious BA, made by one of the masters of the style. It could be the greatest value in dessert wine currently on the market.” —P. Liem
“I'd drink it with baked apricot stuffed with mascarpone.” —R. Pierce
“For me, this is like pumpkin, some candied pumpkin dessert. Even a pumpkin soup.” —M. Mendoza
Royal Tokaji Wine Company
2003 Tokaji 5 Puttonyos $39
“Tokaji really have a niche. It's definitely not riesling, definitely not Sauternes. It's its own thing with a unique place on the menu.”
—R. Pierce
“Tokaji used to be considered one of the finest wines in the world; this wine ranks up there, without the price tag to match. It's opulent, with golden apricot, orange, beeswax and smoke flavors, with vibrant acidity that wraps it tightly and will keep this going for at least another twenty years.” —T.Q. Thomas
“I'm getting such a hit of orange. A wine for orange mousse.” —M. Mendoza
Loel
Cyprus Commandaria $12
“It's got a lot of salty, nutty characteristics. This would go well with aged Manchego, and would make a nice aperitif.”
—E. Railsback
“Where else in the world can you find a satin–textured wine laden with figgy fruit, spice and molasses notes for $12? A glass is all you need for dessert, and a little goes a long way.” —T.Q. Thomas
Quinta do Vesuvio
2005 Porto $63
“It tastes really great this young, but I'd keep it for twenty years.” —J. Kosseff
“And it will easily live that long. Vesuvio is only ever made as a single–quinta Port; it's one of the Symington family's best properties.” —J. Greene
“For a young Port like this, pairing it with a Roquefort is perfect. There's a wonderful balance.” —E. Kelley
Croft
2005 Porto Quinta da Roeda $47
“It has a classic profile and needs some age. An excellent value in a Vintage Port. Some of the sweeter wines tend to be more exuberant; this one's a little drier.” —S. Goldun
“The Taylor Fonseca group purchased Roeda in 2001 and the work they've done on the vineyard is beginning to show in this 2005. It's a legendary site, and will likely regain its reputation as a top vineyard in the years to come. Which makes it a great buy at the moment.” —J. Greene
-->
2006 Central Coast Syrah $17
“One of my favorite value wines year in and out. Blackberry, peppery and clean. This is the first California wine I ever collected. The prices were—still are—low.” —J. Heber
“This works with deep south, saucy barbecue. Or a lot of the sesame-flavored pan-Asian dishes.” — J. Kosseff
Philippe Faury
2005 St-Joseph $28
“How clovey is that? You get all these white flowers too.” —R. Pierce
“I dig it. It’s just full-on syrah from sandy soils, very light, very pretty, and no oak at all. I’d serve it with cassoulet.”—E. Porto Carreiro
“Or a cold venison salad with rocket. This wine is a ‘Hepburn’—sleek and elegant. The color’s really beautiful, too. And look at this, it’s 12.8 percent alcohol.” —M. Mendoza
Parducci
2004 Mendocino
True Grit Petite Sirah $25
“This has those textbook chewy tannins of petite, that cocoa powder thing that happens with the tannins.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“It has just a terrific amount of potential; it will evolve so much over the years.”
—R. Clement
“This wine is all about John Wayne, western food. Well there, pilgrim….ribs off the grill, or ribs with some sweet, herbed rub, maybe a little vinegar in the barbecue sauce.”
—M. Mendoza
Mediterranean/
Iberian Varieties
Chakana
2006 Mendoza Bonarda $11
“There’s a delicate balance between something that’s fresh and good, and something that’s watery and poorly made. This is not at all watery. It’s light and it’s fresh.” —A. Weil
“If you don’t know bonarda, this Chakana is a great way to taste the red fruit flavors and vibrant acidity of the grape.” —P. Tapia
Quinta do Encontro
2004 Bairrada Q do E $9
“This is really good for a nine-dollar wine. It’s a fuller-bodied red with a bit of oak—lots of vanilla notes—but it’s easily approachable. It’s got light tannins, which make it easy to drink.”—E. Railsback
“The baga grape in Bairrada can often be unrelentingly tannic. Here it’s deliciously spicy, especially with grilled lamb.” —J. Greene
Dona Maria
2005 Alentejano VR $17
“This is fantastic. It’s got lots of sweet black fruit, leather and smoke, and earth. It’s powerful and the grippy tannins would be great with braised short ribs or some other braised meat dish. It’s definitely a food wine—it really has the acidity and the tannin structure for it.” —C. Tanghe
“It’s going to go with any sort of grilled steak, spiced meats.” —J. Heber
“Or with Portuguese cheeses, like Serra da Estrela.” —E. Kelley
Gordonzello Peregrino
2005 Tierras de León
Roble Prieto Picudo $18
“It really needs salty Iberian tapas.”
—J. Kosseff
“This Peregrino feels like a refreshing black cherry sorbet, precisely the way Prieto Picudo should taste.” —P. Tapia
Marqués de Cáceres
2001 Rioja Reserva $23
“It has such a soft, fleshy cherry fruit, such a lovely texture.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“A velvety wine, this is really delicious…it took seven years to make that texture.” —M. Mendoza
“It’s a wine for grilled lamb, or beef. That earthiness would pair with mushrooms, to go along with the meat.” —P.J. Comiskey
Ridge
2006 Sonoma County
Three Valleys Zinfandel $22
“It’s bright and tasty. I definitely don’t like a lot of zins; usually the color is so dense that you can’t even see through it. Here, the alcohol is low enough. It’s very refreshing for a zinfandel, not at all over the top. It has some carignan, which seems to lighten it up a bit.” —E. Railsback
Frog’s Leap
2006 Napa Valley Zinfandel $27
“A classic claret-style zin—this has a lot of acidity. It’s not jammy. What’s really cool about it is that comes from organic, dry-farmed vineyards, which is significant because Napa’s sort of irrigation-heavy. Zinfandel in particular seems to respond really well to dry farming. The other thing I love about this wine is that it’s 13.5 alcohol, which is less than most cabs, and this is a zin, which is supposed to be big and bad.” —W. Weber
Italian Reds
Librandi
2004 Cirò Duca San Felice Riserva $18
“I like that it’s fairly light in color, and it’s still rustic and hearty—this would go great with lamb with garlic and herbs. The wine can actually stand up to some pretty heavy foods.” —S. Goldun
“I order this almost every time I go to Pizzeria Delfina in San Francisco. We drank Cirò all summer when I lived in Rome, and when I have it here it just takes me back. The acidity and funky, earthy fruit flavors are totally Italian.” —W. Weber
Fattoria La Peschiera
2005 Morellino di Scansano $17
“The ideal combination of dried fruit, grainy tannins, acidity.” —J. Kosseff
“It’s a steal at the price, with all that structure and flavor, you could even lay it down.”
—J. Marvin
“Drink it with steak tagliatta, a rare steak grilled and tossed with salad.” —J. Heber
Melini
2005 Chianti Classico Isassi $15
“I get a lot of rose petal. Maybe dried rose petal. There’s some dried meat in there too…this is a palate wine. It’s delicious.” —R. Clement
“Serve it with duck with cherries.” —M. Mendoza
“Or it’s juicy enough to go with a capicola sandwich.” —R. Pierce
Le Macchiole
2005 Bolgheri Rosso $32
“Surprisingly accessible. I think it’s the best wine I’ve had today. Very New World style. But it’s so plush, so concentrated. I’d serve it with Kobe beef.” —M. Mendoza
“This estate grows one of the best cabernet francs in the world. The Bolgheri Rosso is one-third the price—a selection from the younger merlot and cab franc vines with a little syrah and sangiovese. It’s a way in to one of the great vineyards of Tuscany.”
—J. Greene
Abbazia di Novacella
2006 Alto Adige Lagrein $27
“This lagrein’s got a lot of concentration, but it doesn’t have the typical tough tannins. It has bright cherry fruit, and the acidity feels fresh in your mouth. Just classic.” —E. Railsback
“This has the freshness and the spice of a great red from the Italian Alps. The acidity makes it really versatile. It’s too light for steak, but with that acidity it needs something with a little bit of fat…like a grilled bone-in pork chop.” —W. Weber
Il Roncal
2005 Colli Orientali del Friuli
Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso $22
“The tart, bright cherry fruit makes your mouth pucker. It has a classic earthiness. I think it’s a wine to drink in a year or two, though. Not right away.” —E. Railsback
“I love refosco for its juicy fruitiness and freshness. This has considerable depth yet it doesn’t feel heavy, thanks to a lively balance of acidity and tannin.” —P. Liem
Poderi Luigi Einaudi
2006 Dolcetto di Dogliani $22
“This is a sexy wine. The nose isn’t so hard to figure out, and you just want to taste it.” — J. Kosseff
“Dogliani always has intense, structured dolcettos. This one is a bird wine: game hen, quail.” —J. Heber
Cantina del Pino
2005 Barbera d’Alba $32
“Barbera d’Alba will always be the younger brother of the bigger Piedmontese wines—a wine that speaks to youth and energy. Very primary with fruit while being playful and spicy. With slow-roasted baby back ribs—this would be my Old World alternative to zinfandel this summer.” —N. Daquip
“The acidity in barbera makes it one of my go-to red wines. You can drink it with almost anything. This one also shows a sense of minerality, a firmness and satisfying flavor.” —W. Weber
Damilano
2005 Nebbiolo d’Alba $21
“It’s an amazing wine for the money. The distance between Barolo and Alba is like the distance between Echo Park and Silver Lake, but the grape can still perform, hill to hill.” —R. Clement
“It’s so elegant and balanced. This is the best value of them all.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“It actually smells a little bit like Fernet. No, really, it's like Averna. It's killer.”
—M. Mendoza
Cabernet Family
Snoqualmie
2006 Columbia Valley Merlot $10
“This is a great little wine for ten dollars.” —R. Pierce
“It has some classic Washington merlot elements, a nice red berry lightness and succulent texture. There's a little creamy caramel wood flavor on the finish. It's easy to drink on its own.” —Patrick J. Comiskey
Santa Rita
2006 Rapel Valley Reserva Carmenère $14
“A textbook carmenère, this offers bell peppers and chocolatey flavors surrounded by a mellow, round texture.” —P. Tapia
“The vegetal nose reminds me of cabernet franc. It's a wine for the more adventurous. This brings in different flavors and textures and florals, more than just dark fruit and oak. It would work really well with cassoulet—pork sausage, beef tongue and duck confit.
Morandé
2005 Maipo Valley
Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon $17
“It's not so green that it's over the top and it doesn't have a big fat oak presence. The acidity gives it its brightness.” —E. Railsback
Bodegas Nieto Senetiner
2005 Mendoza Don Nicanor Malbec $17
“My marker for malbec is that it looks like syrah but it tastes like cabernet.” —J. Heber
“This is a voluptuous and ripe example of the grape. It seems it was made for Argentine asado.” —P. Tapia
Caro
2006 Mendoza Amancaya $20
“This really shows its Bordeaux roots, with a great texture.” —J. Kosseff
“This is a joint venture between Catena and Lafite–Rothschild in Bordeaux. Their top wine, “Caro,” is twice as expensive. Amancaya has more malbec in the blend, meant for early drinking.” —J. Greene
“For the price, this is really good, and it's showing better now than the Caro.”
—J. Heber
Tamarack
2006 Columbia Valley Firehouse Red $20
“This is a kitchen–sink blend from great vineyards all over the Columbia Valley—it's routinely one of the state's best bang–for–the–buck reds. The 2006 is juicy and rich, with a healthy slug of chocolatey oak to hold all that fruit together.” —P.J. Comiskey
“It smells like a caramel macchiato. I'd serve this with beef bourguignon.”
—E. Porto Carreiro
Chateau Ste. Michelle
2005 Columbia Valley Indian Wells Cabernet Sauvignon $19
“Foursquare and dark–fruited, this has black cherry and plum flavors grounded by firm tannin.” —P.J. Comiskey
“It fits in with a rib–eye steak.” —R. Clement
Cadence
2006 Columbia Valley Coda $25
“This has a lot of red fruit, like cranberry. It's a perfect prime rib wine. It's delicate and not at all in your face, like a lot of other Washington wines.” —A. Weil
“Ben Smith's wines are elegant and satisfying, and this is a great way to get to know his style.” —W. Weber
Chateau Phélan–Ségur
2004 St–Estèphe $25
“This is a vintage for people who are long on time and short on money.” —A. Weil
“Many of the '04s from St–Estèphe are sort of unforgiving as young wines. This one is easy to drink. It has a clean fruit quality, a lot of complexity, a lot of layers. It needs some cellaring to show off what it's got…a great counter to expensive California cabernets, and a fantastic value for Left Bank Bordeaux.” —S. Goldun
“I finished up some '89 Phélan two years ago, just when it was beginning to fade. Still working on a case of 2000. This 2004 will keep beautifully—one of the more elegant wines from St–Estèphe.” —J. Greene
Beringer
2005 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $27
“This is a big rich wine, made for a steak. At the price, it delivers a lot in terms of value.”
—J. Kosseff
“Wines from that area can easily be up to $230. This one has nice length and a beautiful nose. The mouthfeel is very velvety. It's a great value at $27.” —B. Gillespie
Pelton House
2005 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $45
“This is a new brand from a great vineyard farmed by Jess Jackson's family company. It's made by a Chilean woman, Marcia Monahan, who planted some carmenère on the property to blend in with this cabernet. A vineyard to watch.” —J. Greene
Sweet & Complex
Dr. Loosen
2006 Mosel Riesling Beerenauslese $25
“This is all from Bernkasteler Lay, harvested from early–developing botrytis. Don't be fooled by the price. This is serious BA, made by one of the masters of the style. It could be the greatest value in dessert wine currently on the market.” —P. Liem
“I'd drink it with baked apricot stuffed with mascarpone.” —R. Pierce
“For me, this is like pumpkin, some candied pumpkin dessert. Even a pumpkin soup.” —M. Mendoza
Royal Tokaji Wine Company
2003 Tokaji 5 Puttonyos $39
“Tokaji really have a niche. It's definitely not riesling, definitely not Sauternes. It's its own thing with a unique place on the menu.”
—R. Pierce
“Tokaji used to be considered one of the finest wines in the world; this wine ranks up there, without the price tag to match. It's opulent, with golden apricot, orange, beeswax and smoke flavors, with vibrant acidity that wraps it tightly and will keep this going for at least another twenty years.” —T.Q. Thomas
“I'm getting such a hit of orange. A wine for orange mousse.” —M. Mendoza
Loel
Cyprus Commandaria $12
“It's got a lot of salty, nutty characteristics. This would go well with aged Manchego, and would make a nice aperitif.”
—E. Railsback
“Where else in the world can you find a satin–textured wine laden with figgy fruit, spice and molasses notes for $12? A glass is all you need for dessert, and a little goes a long way.” —T.Q. Thomas
Quinta do Vesuvio
2005 Porto $63
“It tastes really great this young, but I'd keep it for twenty years.” —J. Kosseff
“And it will easily live that long. Vesuvio is only ever made as a single–quinta Port; it's one of the Symington family's best properties.” —J. Greene
“For a young Port like this, pairing it with a Roquefort is perfect. There's a wonderful balance.” —E. Kelley
Croft
2005 Porto Quinta da Roeda $47
“It has a classic profile and needs some age. An excellent value in a Vintage Port. Some of the sweeter wines tend to be more exuberant; this one's a little drier.” —S. Goldun
“The Taylor Fonseca group purchased Roeda in 2001 and the work they've done on the vineyard is beginning to show in this 2005. It's a legendary site, and will likely regain its reputation as a top vineyard in the years to come. Which makes it a great buy at the moment.” —J. Greene
-->
2004 Mendocino True Grit Petite Sirah $25
“This has those textbook chewy tannins of petite, that cocoa powder thing that happens with the tannins.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“It has just a terrific amount of potential; it will evolve so much over the years.” —R. Clement
“This wine is all about John Wayne, western food. Well there, pilgrim….ribs off the grill, or ribs with some sweet, herbed rub, maybe a little vinegar in the barbecue sauce.” —M. Mendoza
Mediterranean/ Iberian Varieties
Chakana
2006 Mendoza Bonarda $11
“There’s a delicate balance between something that’s fresh and good, and something that’s watery and poorly made. This is not at all watery. It’s light and it’s fresh.” —A. Weil
“If you don’t know bonarda, this Chakana is a great way to taste the red fruit flavors and vibrant acidity of the grape.” —P. Tapia
Quinta do Encontro
2004 Bairrada Q do E $9
“This is really good for a nine-dollar wine. It’s a fuller-bodied red with a bit of oak—lots of vanilla notes—but it’s easily approachable. It’s got light tannins, which make it easy to drink.”—E. Railsback
“The baga grape in Bairrada can often be unrelentingly tannic. Here it’s deliciously spicy, especially with grilled lamb.” —J. Greene
Dona Maria
2005 Alentejano VR $17
“This is fantastic. It’s got lots of sweet black fruit, leather and smoke, and earth. It’s powerful and the grippy tannins would be great with braised short ribs or some other braised meat dish. It’s definitely a food wine—it really has the acidity and the tannin structure for it.” —C. Tanghe
“It’s going to go with any sort of grilled steak, spiced meats.” —J. Heber
“Or with Portuguese cheeses, like Serra da Estrela.” —E. Kelley
Gordonzello Peregrino
2005 Tierras de León
Roble Prieto Picudo $18
“It really needs salty Iberian tapas.”
—J. Kosseff
“This Peregrino feels like a refreshing black cherry sorbet, precisely the way Prieto Picudo should taste.” —P. Tapia
Marqués de Cáceres
2001 Rioja Reserva $23
“It has such a soft, fleshy cherry fruit, such a lovely texture.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“A velvety wine, this is really delicious…it took seven years to make that texture.” —M. Mendoza
“It’s a wine for grilled lamb, or beef. That earthiness would pair with mushrooms, to go along with the meat.” —P.J. Comiskey
Ridge
2006 Sonoma County
Three Valleys Zinfandel $22
“It’s bright and tasty. I definitely don’t like a lot of zins; usually the color is so dense that you can’t even see through it. Here, the alcohol is low enough. It’s very refreshing for a zinfandel, not at all over the top. It has some carignan, which seems to lighten it up a bit.” —E. Railsback
Frog’s Leap
2006 Napa Valley Zinfandel $27
“A classic claret-style zin—this has a lot of acidity. It’s not jammy. What’s really cool about it is that comes from organic, dry-farmed vineyards, which is significant because Napa’s sort of irrigation-heavy. Zinfandel in particular seems to respond really well to dry farming. The other thing I love about this wine is that it’s 13.5 alcohol, which is less than most cabs, and this is a zin, which is supposed to be big and bad.” —W. Weber
Italian Reds
Librandi
2004 Cirò Duca San Felice Riserva $18
“I like that it’s fairly light in color, and it’s still rustic and hearty—this would go great with lamb with garlic and herbs. The wine can actually stand up to some pretty heavy foods.” —S. Goldun
“I order this almost every time I go to Pizzeria Delfina in San Francisco. We drank Cirò all summer when I lived in Rome, and when I have it here it just takes me back. The acidity and funky, earthy fruit flavors are totally Italian.” —W. Weber
Fattoria La Peschiera
2005 Morellino di Scansano $17
“The ideal combination of dried fruit, grainy tannins, acidity.” —J. Kosseff
“It’s a steal at the price, with all that structure and flavor, you could even lay it down.”
—J. Marvin
“Drink it with steak tagliatta, a rare steak grilled and tossed with salad.” —J. Heber
Melini
2005 Chianti Classico Isassi $15
“I get a lot of rose petal. Maybe dried rose petal. There’s some dried meat in there too…this is a palate wine. It’s delicious.” —R. Clement
“Serve it with duck with cherries.” —M. Mendoza
“Or it’s juicy enough to go with a capicola sandwich.” —R. Pierce
Le Macchiole
2005 Bolgheri Rosso $32
“Surprisingly accessible. I think it’s the best wine I’ve had today. Very New World style. But it’s so plush, so concentrated. I’d serve it with Kobe beef.” —M. Mendoza
“This estate grows one of the best cabernet francs in the world. The Bolgheri Rosso is one-third the price—a selection from the younger merlot and cab franc vines with a little syrah and sangiovese. It’s a way in to one of the great vineyards of Tuscany.”
—J. Greene
Abbazia di Novacella
2006 Alto Adige Lagrein $27
“This lagrein’s got a lot of concentration, but it doesn’t have the typical tough tannins. It has bright cherry fruit, and the acidity feels fresh in your mouth. Just classic.” —E. Railsback
“This has the freshness and the spice of a great red from the Italian Alps. The acidity makes it really versatile. It’s too light for steak, but with that acidity it needs something with a little bit of fat…like a grilled bone-in pork chop.” —W. Weber
Il Roncal
2005 Colli Orientali del Friuli
Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso $22
“The tart, bright cherry fruit makes your mouth pucker. It has a classic earthiness. I think it’s a wine to drink in a year or two, though. Not right away.” —E. Railsback
“I love refosco for its juicy fruitiness and freshness. This has considerable depth yet it doesn’t feel heavy, thanks to a lively balance of acidity and tannin.” —P. Liem
Poderi Luigi Einaudi
2006 Dolcetto di Dogliani $22
“This is a sexy wine. The nose isn’t so hard to figure out, and you just want to taste it.” — J. Kosseff
“Dogliani always has intense, structured dolcettos. This one is a bird wine: game hen, quail.” —J. Heber
Cantina del Pino
2005 Barbera d’Alba $32
“Barbera d’Alba will always be the younger brother of the bigger Piedmontese wines—a wine that speaks to youth and energy. Very primary with fruit while being playful and spicy. With slow-roasted baby back ribs—this would be my Old World alternative to zinfandel this summer.” —N. Daquip
“The acidity in barbera makes it one of my go-to red wines. You can drink it with almost anything. This one also shows a sense of minerality, a firmness and satisfying flavor.” —W. Weber
Damilano
2005 Nebbiolo d’Alba $21
“It’s an amazing wine for the money. The distance between Barolo and Alba is like the distance between Echo Park and Silver Lake, but the grape can still perform, hill to hill.” —R. Clement
“It’s so elegant and balanced. This is the best value of them all.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“It actually smells a little bit like Fernet. No, really, it's like Averna. It's killer.”
—M. Mendoza
Cabernet Family
Snoqualmie
2006 Columbia Valley Merlot $10
“This is a great little wine for ten dollars.” —R. Pierce
“It has some classic Washington merlot elements, a nice red berry lightness and succulent texture. There's a little creamy caramel wood flavor on the finish. It's easy to drink on its own.” —Patrick J. Comiskey
Santa Rita
2006 Rapel Valley Reserva Carmenère $14
“A textbook carmenère, this offers bell peppers and chocolatey flavors surrounded by a mellow, round texture.” —P. Tapia
“The vegetal nose reminds me of cabernet franc. It's a wine for the more adventurous. This brings in different flavors and textures and florals, more than just dark fruit and oak. It would work really well with cassoulet—pork sausage, beef tongue and duck confit.
Morandé
2005 Maipo Valley
Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon $17
“It's not so green that it's over the top and it doesn't have a big fat oak presence. The acidity gives it its brightness.” —E. Railsback
Bodegas Nieto Senetiner
2005 Mendoza Don Nicanor Malbec $17
“My marker for malbec is that it looks like syrah but it tastes like cabernet.” —J. Heber
“This is a voluptuous and ripe example of the grape. It seems it was made for Argentine asado.” —P. Tapia
Caro
2006 Mendoza Amancaya $20
“This really shows its Bordeaux roots, with a great texture.” —J. Kosseff
“This is a joint venture between Catena and Lafite–Rothschild in Bordeaux. Their top wine, “Caro,” is twice as expensive. Amancaya has more malbec in the blend, meant for early drinking.” —J. Greene
“For the price, this is really good, and it's showing better now than the Caro.”
—J. Heber
Tamarack
2006 Columbia Valley Firehouse Red $20
“This is a kitchen–sink blend from great vineyards all over the Columbia Valley—it's routinely one of the state's best bang–for–the–buck reds. The 2006 is juicy and rich, with a healthy slug of chocolatey oak to hold all that fruit together.” —P.J. Comiskey
“It smells like a caramel macchiato. I'd serve this with beef bourguignon.”
—E. Porto Carreiro
Chateau Ste. Michelle
2005 Columbia Valley Indian Wells Cabernet Sauvignon $19
“Foursquare and dark–fruited, this has black cherry and plum flavors grounded by firm tannin.” —P.J. Comiskey
“It fits in with a rib–eye steak.” —R. Clement
Cadence
2006 Columbia Valley Coda $25
“This has a lot of red fruit, like cranberry. It's a perfect prime rib wine. It's delicate and not at all in your face, like a lot of other Washington wines.” —A. Weil
“Ben Smith's wines are elegant and satisfying, and this is a great way to get to know his style.” —W. Weber
Chateau Phélan–Ségur
2004 St–Estèphe $25
“This is a vintage for people who are long on time and short on money.” —A. Weil
“Many of the '04s from St–Estèphe are sort of unforgiving as young wines. This one is easy to drink. It has a clean fruit quality, a lot of complexity, a lot of layers. It needs some cellaring to show off what it's got…a great counter to expensive California cabernets, and a fantastic value for Left Bank Bordeaux.” —S. Goldun
“I finished up some '89 Phélan two years ago, just when it was beginning to fade. Still working on a case of 2000. This 2004 will keep beautifully—one of the more elegant wines from St–Estèphe.” —J. Greene
Beringer
2005 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $27
“This is a big rich wine, made for a steak. At the price, it delivers a lot in terms of value.”
—J. Kosseff
“Wines from that area can easily be up to $230. This one has nice length and a beautiful nose. The mouthfeel is very velvety. It's a great value at $27.” —B. Gillespie
Pelton House
2005 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $45
“This is a new brand from a great vineyard farmed by Jess Jackson's family company. It's made by a Chilean woman, Marcia Monahan, who planted some carmenère on the property to blend in with this cabernet. A vineyard to watch.” —J. Greene
Sweet & Complex
Dr. Loosen
2006 Mosel Riesling Beerenauslese $25
“This is all from Bernkasteler Lay, harvested from early–developing botrytis. Don't be fooled by the price. This is serious BA, made by one of the masters of the style. It could be the greatest value in dessert wine currently on the market.” —P. Liem
“I'd drink it with baked apricot stuffed with mascarpone.” —R. Pierce
“For me, this is like pumpkin, some candied pumpkin dessert. Even a pumpkin soup.” —M. Mendoza
Royal Tokaji Wine Company
2003 Tokaji 5 Puttonyos $39
“Tokaji really have a niche. It's definitely not riesling, definitely not Sauternes. It's its own thing with a unique place on the menu.”
—R. Pierce
“Tokaji used to be considered one of the finest wines in the world; this wine ranks up there, without the price tag to match. It's opulent, with golden apricot, orange, beeswax and smoke flavors, with vibrant acidity that wraps it tightly and will keep this going for at least another twenty years.” —T.Q. Thomas
“I'm getting such a hit of orange. A wine for orange mousse.” —M. Mendoza
Loel
Cyprus Commandaria $12
“It's got a lot of salty, nutty characteristics. This would go well with aged Manchego, and would make a nice aperitif.”
—E. Railsback
“Where else in the world can you find a satin–textured wine laden with figgy fruit, spice and molasses notes for $12? A glass is all you need for dessert, and a little goes a long way.” —T.Q. Thomas
Quinta do Vesuvio
2005 Porto $63
“It tastes really great this young, but I'd keep it for twenty years.” —J. Kosseff
“And it will easily live that long. Vesuvio is only ever made as a single–quinta Port; it's one of the Symington family's best properties.” —J. Greene
“For a young Port like this, pairing it with a Roquefort is perfect. There's a wonderful balance.” —E. Kelley
Croft
2005 Porto Quinta da Roeda $47
“It has a classic profile and needs some age. An excellent value in a Vintage Port. Some of the sweeter wines tend to be more exuberant; this one's a little drier.” —S. Goldun
“The Taylor Fonseca group purchased Roeda in 2001 and the work they've done on the vineyard is beginning to show in this 2005. It's a legendary site, and will likely regain its reputation as a top vineyard in the years to come. Which makes it a great buy at the moment.” —J. Greene
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2004 Bairrada Q do E $9
“This is really good for a nine-dollar wine. It’s a fuller-bodied red with a bit of oak—lots of vanilla notes—but it’s easily approachable. It’s got light tannins, which make it easy to drink.”—E. Railsback
“The baga grape in Bairrada can often be unrelentingly tannic. Here it’s deliciously spicy, especially with grilled lamb.” —J. Greene
Dona Maria
2005 Alentejano VR $17
“This is fantastic. It’s got lots of sweet black fruit, leather and smoke, and earth. It’s powerful and the grippy tannins would be great with braised short ribs or some other braised meat dish. It’s definitely a food wine—it really has the acidity and the tannin structure for it.” —C. Tanghe
“It’s going to go with any sort of grilled steak, spiced meats.” —J. Heber
“Or with Portuguese cheeses, like Serra da Estrela.” —E. Kelley
Gordonzello Peregrino
2005 Tierras de León
Roble Prieto Picudo $18
“It really needs salty Iberian tapas.”
—J. Kosseff
“This Peregrino feels like a refreshing black cherry sorbet, precisely the way Prieto Picudo should taste.” —P. Tapia
Marqués de Cáceres
2001 Rioja Reserva $23
“It has such a soft, fleshy cherry fruit, such a lovely texture.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“A velvety wine, this is really delicious…it took seven years to make that texture.” —M. Mendoza
“It’s a wine for grilled lamb, or beef. That earthiness would pair with mushrooms, to go along with the meat.” —P.J. Comiskey
Ridge
2006 Sonoma County
Three Valleys Zinfandel $22
“It’s bright and tasty. I definitely don’t like a lot of zins; usually the color is so dense that you can’t even see through it. Here, the alcohol is low enough. It’s very refreshing for a zinfandel, not at all over the top. It has some carignan, which seems to lighten it up a bit.” —E. Railsback
Frog’s Leap
2006 Napa Valley Zinfandel $27
“A classic claret-style zin—this has a lot of acidity. It’s not jammy. What’s really cool about it is that comes from organic, dry-farmed vineyards, which is significant because Napa’s sort of irrigation-heavy. Zinfandel in particular seems to respond really well to dry farming. The other thing I love about this wine is that it’s 13.5 alcohol, which is less than most cabs, and this is a zin, which is supposed to be big and bad.” —W. Weber
Italian Reds
Librandi
2004 Cirò Duca San Felice Riserva $18
“I like that it’s fairly light in color, and it’s still rustic and hearty—this would go great with lamb with garlic and herbs. The wine can actually stand up to some pretty heavy foods.” —S. Goldun
“I order this almost every time I go to Pizzeria Delfina in San Francisco. We drank Cirò all summer when I lived in Rome, and when I have it here it just takes me back. The acidity and funky, earthy fruit flavors are totally Italian.” —W. Weber
Fattoria La Peschiera
2005 Morellino di Scansano $17
“The ideal combination of dried fruit, grainy tannins, acidity.” —J. Kosseff
“It’s a steal at the price, with all that structure and flavor, you could even lay it down.”
—J. Marvin
“Drink it with steak tagliatta, a rare steak grilled and tossed with salad.” —J. Heber
Melini
2005 Chianti Classico Isassi $15
“I get a lot of rose petal. Maybe dried rose petal. There’s some dried meat in there too…this is a palate wine. It’s delicious.” —R. Clement
“Serve it with duck with cherries.” —M. Mendoza
“Or it’s juicy enough to go with a capicola sandwich.” —R. Pierce
Le Macchiole
2005 Bolgheri Rosso $32
“Surprisingly accessible. I think it’s the best wine I’ve had today. Very New World style. But it’s so plush, so concentrated. I’d serve it with Kobe beef.” —M. Mendoza
“This estate grows one of the best cabernet francs in the world. The Bolgheri Rosso is one-third the price—a selection from the younger merlot and cab franc vines with a little syrah and sangiovese. It’s a way in to one of the great vineyards of Tuscany.”
—J. Greene
Abbazia di Novacella
2006 Alto Adige Lagrein $27
“This lagrein’s got a lot of concentration, but it doesn’t have the typical tough tannins. It has bright cherry fruit, and the acidity feels fresh in your mouth. Just classic.” —E. Railsback
“This has the freshness and the spice of a great red from the Italian Alps. The acidity makes it really versatile. It’s too light for steak, but with that acidity it needs something with a little bit of fat…like a grilled bone-in pork chop.” —W. Weber
Il Roncal
2005 Colli Orientali del Friuli
Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso $22
“The tart, bright cherry fruit makes your mouth pucker. It has a classic earthiness. I think it’s a wine to drink in a year or two, though. Not right away.” —E. Railsback
“I love refosco for its juicy fruitiness and freshness. This has considerable depth yet it doesn’t feel heavy, thanks to a lively balance of acidity and tannin.” —P. Liem
Poderi Luigi Einaudi
2006 Dolcetto di Dogliani $22
“This is a sexy wine. The nose isn’t so hard to figure out, and you just want to taste it.” — J. Kosseff
“Dogliani always has intense, structured dolcettos. This one is a bird wine: game hen, quail.” —J. Heber
Cantina del Pino
2005 Barbera d’Alba $32
“Barbera d’Alba will always be the younger brother of the bigger Piedmontese wines—a wine that speaks to youth and energy. Very primary with fruit while being playful and spicy. With slow-roasted baby back ribs—this would be my Old World alternative to zinfandel this summer.” —N. Daquip
“The acidity in barbera makes it one of my go-to red wines. You can drink it with almost anything. This one also shows a sense of minerality, a firmness and satisfying flavor.” —W. Weber
Damilano
2005 Nebbiolo d’Alba $21
“It’s an amazing wine for the money. The distance between Barolo and Alba is like the distance between Echo Park and Silver Lake, but the grape can still perform, hill to hill.” —R. Clement
“It’s so elegant and balanced. This is the best value of them all.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“It actually smells a little bit like Fernet. No, really, it's like Averna. It's killer.”
—M. Mendoza
Cabernet Family
Snoqualmie
2006 Columbia Valley Merlot $10
“This is a great little wine for ten dollars.” —R. Pierce
“It has some classic Washington merlot elements, a nice red berry lightness and succulent texture. There's a little creamy caramel wood flavor on the finish. It's easy to drink on its own.” —Patrick J. Comiskey
Santa Rita
2006 Rapel Valley Reserva Carmenère $14
“A textbook carmenère, this offers bell peppers and chocolatey flavors surrounded by a mellow, round texture.” —P. Tapia
“The vegetal nose reminds me of cabernet franc. It's a wine for the more adventurous. This brings in different flavors and textures and florals, more than just dark fruit and oak. It would work really well with cassoulet—pork sausage, beef tongue and duck confit.
Morandé
2005 Maipo Valley
Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon $17
“It's not so green that it's over the top and it doesn't have a big fat oak presence. The acidity gives it its brightness.” —E. Railsback
Bodegas Nieto Senetiner
2005 Mendoza Don Nicanor Malbec $17
“My marker for malbec is that it looks like syrah but it tastes like cabernet.” —J. Heber
“This is a voluptuous and ripe example of the grape. It seems it was made for Argentine asado.” —P. Tapia
Caro
2006 Mendoza Amancaya $20
“This really shows its Bordeaux roots, with a great texture.” —J. Kosseff
“This is a joint venture between Catena and Lafite–Rothschild in Bordeaux. Their top wine, “Caro,” is twice as expensive. Amancaya has more malbec in the blend, meant for early drinking.” —J. Greene
“For the price, this is really good, and it's showing better now than the Caro.”
—J. Heber
Tamarack
2006 Columbia Valley Firehouse Red $20
“This is a kitchen–sink blend from great vineyards all over the Columbia Valley—it's routinely one of the state's best bang–for–the–buck reds. The 2006 is juicy and rich, with a healthy slug of chocolatey oak to hold all that fruit together.” —P.J. Comiskey
“It smells like a caramel macchiato. I'd serve this with beef bourguignon.”
—E. Porto Carreiro
Chateau Ste. Michelle
2005 Columbia Valley Indian Wells Cabernet Sauvignon $19
“Foursquare and dark–fruited, this has black cherry and plum flavors grounded by firm tannin.” —P.J. Comiskey
“It fits in with a rib–eye steak.” —R. Clement
Cadence
2006 Columbia Valley Coda $25
“This has a lot of red fruit, like cranberry. It's a perfect prime rib wine. It's delicate and not at all in your face, like a lot of other Washington wines.” —A. Weil
“Ben Smith's wines are elegant and satisfying, and this is a great way to get to know his style.” —W. Weber
Chateau Phélan–Ségur
2004 St–Estèphe $25
“This is a vintage for people who are long on time and short on money.” —A. Weil
“Many of the '04s from St–Estèphe are sort of unforgiving as young wines. This one is easy to drink. It has a clean fruit quality, a lot of complexity, a lot of layers. It needs some cellaring to show off what it's got…a great counter to expensive California cabernets, and a fantastic value for Left Bank Bordeaux.” —S. Goldun
“I finished up some '89 Phélan two years ago, just when it was beginning to fade. Still working on a case of 2000. This 2004 will keep beautifully—one of the more elegant wines from St–Estèphe.” —J. Greene
Beringer
2005 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $27
“This is a big rich wine, made for a steak. At the price, it delivers a lot in terms of value.”
—J. Kosseff
“Wines from that area can easily be up to $230. This one has nice length and a beautiful nose. The mouthfeel is very velvety. It's a great value at $27.” —B. Gillespie
Pelton House
2005 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $45
“This is a new brand from a great vineyard farmed by Jess Jackson's family company. It's made by a Chilean woman, Marcia Monahan, who planted some carmenère on the property to blend in with this cabernet. A vineyard to watch.” —J. Greene
Sweet & Complex
Dr. Loosen
2006 Mosel Riesling Beerenauslese $25
“This is all from Bernkasteler Lay, harvested from early–developing botrytis. Don't be fooled by the price. This is serious BA, made by one of the masters of the style. It could be the greatest value in dessert wine currently on the market.” —P. Liem
“I'd drink it with baked apricot stuffed with mascarpone.” —R. Pierce
“For me, this is like pumpkin, some candied pumpkin dessert. Even a pumpkin soup.” —M. Mendoza
Royal Tokaji Wine Company
2003 Tokaji 5 Puttonyos $39
“Tokaji really have a niche. It's definitely not riesling, definitely not Sauternes. It's its own thing with a unique place on the menu.”
—R. Pierce
“Tokaji used to be considered one of the finest wines in the world; this wine ranks up there, without the price tag to match. It's opulent, with golden apricot, orange, beeswax and smoke flavors, with vibrant acidity that wraps it tightly and will keep this going for at least another twenty years.” —T.Q. Thomas
“I'm getting such a hit of orange. A wine for orange mousse.” —M. Mendoza
Loel
Cyprus Commandaria $12
“It's got a lot of salty, nutty characteristics. This would go well with aged Manchego, and would make a nice aperitif.”
—E. Railsback
“Where else in the world can you find a satin–textured wine laden with figgy fruit, spice and molasses notes for $12? A glass is all you need for dessert, and a little goes a long way.” —T.Q. Thomas
Quinta do Vesuvio
2005 Porto $63
“It tastes really great this young, but I'd keep it for twenty years.” —J. Kosseff
“And it will easily live that long. Vesuvio is only ever made as a single–quinta Port; it's one of the Symington family's best properties.” —J. Greene
“For a young Port like this, pairing it with a Roquefort is perfect. There's a wonderful balance.” —E. Kelley
Croft
2005 Porto Quinta da Roeda $47
“It has a classic profile and needs some age. An excellent value in a Vintage Port. Some of the sweeter wines tend to be more exuberant; this one's a little drier.” —S. Goldun
“The Taylor Fonseca group purchased Roeda in 2001 and the work they've done on the vineyard is beginning to show in this 2005. It's a legendary site, and will likely regain its reputation as a top vineyard in the years to come. Which makes it a great buy at the moment.” —J. Greene
-->
2005 Tierras de León Roble Prieto Picudo $18
“It really needs salty Iberian tapas.” —J. Kosseff
“This Peregrino feels like a refreshing black cherry sorbet, precisely the way Prieto Picudo should taste.” —P. Tapia
Marqués de Cáceres
2001 Rioja Reserva $23
“It has such a soft, fleshy cherry fruit, such a lovely texture.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“A velvety wine, this is really delicious…it took seven years to make that texture.” —M. Mendoza
“It’s a wine for grilled lamb, or beef. That earthiness would pair with mushrooms, to go along with the meat.” —P.J. Comiskey
Ridge
2006 Sonoma County
Three Valleys Zinfandel $22
“It’s bright and tasty. I definitely don’t like a lot of zins; usually the color is so dense that you can’t even see through it. Here, the alcohol is low enough. It’s very refreshing for a zinfandel, not at all over the top. It has some carignan, which seems to lighten it up a bit.” —E. Railsback
Frog’s Leap
2006 Napa Valley Zinfandel $27
“A classic claret-style zin—this has a lot of acidity. It’s not jammy. What’s really cool about it is that comes from organic, dry-farmed vineyards, which is significant because Napa’s sort of irrigation-heavy. Zinfandel in particular seems to respond really well to dry farming. The other thing I love about this wine is that it’s 13.5 alcohol, which is less than most cabs, and this is a zin, which is supposed to be big and bad.” —W. Weber
Italian Reds
Librandi
2004 Cirò Duca San Felice Riserva $18
“I like that it’s fairly light in color, and it’s still rustic and hearty—this would go great with lamb with garlic and herbs. The wine can actually stand up to some pretty heavy foods.” —S. Goldun
“I order this almost every time I go to Pizzeria Delfina in San Francisco. We drank Cirò all summer when I lived in Rome, and when I have it here it just takes me back. The acidity and funky, earthy fruit flavors are totally Italian.” —W. Weber
Fattoria La Peschiera
2005 Morellino di Scansano $17
“The ideal combination of dried fruit, grainy tannins, acidity.” —J. Kosseff
“It’s a steal at the price, with all that structure and flavor, you could even lay it down.”
—J. Marvin
“Drink it with steak tagliatta, a rare steak grilled and tossed with salad.” —J. Heber
Melini
2005 Chianti Classico Isassi $15
“I get a lot of rose petal. Maybe dried rose petal. There’s some dried meat in there too…this is a palate wine. It’s delicious.” —R. Clement
“Serve it with duck with cherries.” —M. Mendoza
“Or it’s juicy enough to go with a capicola sandwich.” —R. Pierce
Le Macchiole
2005 Bolgheri Rosso $32
“Surprisingly accessible. I think it’s the best wine I’ve had today. Very New World style. But it’s so plush, so concentrated. I’d serve it with Kobe beef.” —M. Mendoza
“This estate grows one of the best cabernet francs in the world. The Bolgheri Rosso is one-third the price—a selection from the younger merlot and cab franc vines with a little syrah and sangiovese. It’s a way in to one of the great vineyards of Tuscany.”
—J. Greene
Abbazia di Novacella
2006 Alto Adige Lagrein $27
“This lagrein’s got a lot of concentration, but it doesn’t have the typical tough tannins. It has bright cherry fruit, and the acidity feels fresh in your mouth. Just classic.” —E. Railsback
“This has the freshness and the spice of a great red from the Italian Alps. The acidity makes it really versatile. It’s too light for steak, but with that acidity it needs something with a little bit of fat…like a grilled bone-in pork chop.” —W. Weber
Il Roncal
2005 Colli Orientali del Friuli
Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso $22
“The tart, bright cherry fruit makes your mouth pucker. It has a classic earthiness. I think it’s a wine to drink in a year or two, though. Not right away.” —E. Railsback
“I love refosco for its juicy fruitiness and freshness. This has considerable depth yet it doesn’t feel heavy, thanks to a lively balance of acidity and tannin.” —P. Liem
Poderi Luigi Einaudi
2006 Dolcetto di Dogliani $22
“This is a sexy wine. The nose isn’t so hard to figure out, and you just want to taste it.” — J. Kosseff
“Dogliani always has intense, structured dolcettos. This one is a bird wine: game hen, quail.” —J. Heber
Cantina del Pino
2005 Barbera d’Alba $32
“Barbera d’Alba will always be the younger brother of the bigger Piedmontese wines—a wine that speaks to youth and energy. Very primary with fruit while being playful and spicy. With slow-roasted baby back ribs—this would be my Old World alternative to zinfandel this summer.” —N. Daquip
“The acidity in barbera makes it one of my go-to red wines. You can drink it with almost anything. This one also shows a sense of minerality, a firmness and satisfying flavor.” —W. Weber
Damilano
2005 Nebbiolo d’Alba $21
“It’s an amazing wine for the money. The distance between Barolo and Alba is like the distance between Echo Park and Silver Lake, but the grape can still perform, hill to hill.” —R. Clement
“It’s so elegant and balanced. This is the best value of them all.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“It actually smells a little bit like Fernet. No, really, it's like Averna. It's killer.”
—M. Mendoza
Cabernet Family
Snoqualmie
2006 Columbia Valley Merlot $10
“This is a great little wine for ten dollars.” —R. Pierce
“It has some classic Washington merlot elements, a nice red berry lightness and succulent texture. There's a little creamy caramel wood flavor on the finish. It's easy to drink on its own.” —Patrick J. Comiskey
Santa Rita
2006 Rapel Valley Reserva Carmenère $14
“A textbook carmenère, this offers bell peppers and chocolatey flavors surrounded by a mellow, round texture.” —P. Tapia
“The vegetal nose reminds me of cabernet franc. It's a wine for the more adventurous. This brings in different flavors and textures and florals, more than just dark fruit and oak. It would work really well with cassoulet—pork sausage, beef tongue and duck confit.
Morandé
2005 Maipo Valley
Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon $17
“It's not so green that it's over the top and it doesn't have a big fat oak presence. The acidity gives it its brightness.” —E. Railsback
Bodegas Nieto Senetiner
2005 Mendoza Don Nicanor Malbec $17
“My marker for malbec is that it looks like syrah but it tastes like cabernet.” —J. Heber
“This is a voluptuous and ripe example of the grape. It seems it was made for Argentine asado.” —P. Tapia
Caro
2006 Mendoza Amancaya $20
“This really shows its Bordeaux roots, with a great texture.” —J. Kosseff
“This is a joint venture between Catena and Lafite–Rothschild in Bordeaux. Their top wine, “Caro,” is twice as expensive. Amancaya has more malbec in the blend, meant for early drinking.” —J. Greene
“For the price, this is really good, and it's showing better now than the Caro.”
—J. Heber
Tamarack
2006 Columbia Valley Firehouse Red $20
“This is a kitchen–sink blend from great vineyards all over the Columbia Valley—it's routinely one of the state's best bang–for–the–buck reds. The 2006 is juicy and rich, with a healthy slug of chocolatey oak to hold all that fruit together.” —P.J. Comiskey
“It smells like a caramel macchiato. I'd serve this with beef bourguignon.”
—E. Porto Carreiro
Chateau Ste. Michelle
2005 Columbia Valley Indian Wells Cabernet Sauvignon $19
“Foursquare and dark–fruited, this has black cherry and plum flavors grounded by firm tannin.” —P.J. Comiskey
“It fits in with a rib–eye steak.” —R. Clement
Cadence
2006 Columbia Valley Coda $25
“This has a lot of red fruit, like cranberry. It's a perfect prime rib wine. It's delicate and not at all in your face, like a lot of other Washington wines.” —A. Weil
“Ben Smith's wines are elegant and satisfying, and this is a great way to get to know his style.” —W. Weber
Chateau Phélan–Ségur
2004 St–Estèphe $25
“This is a vintage for people who are long on time and short on money.” —A. Weil
“Many of the '04s from St–Estèphe are sort of unforgiving as young wines. This one is easy to drink. It has a clean fruit quality, a lot of complexity, a lot of layers. It needs some cellaring to show off what it's got…a great counter to expensive California cabernets, and a fantastic value for Left Bank Bordeaux.” —S. Goldun
“I finished up some '89 Phélan two years ago, just when it was beginning to fade. Still working on a case of 2000. This 2004 will keep beautifully—one of the more elegant wines from St–Estèphe.” —J. Greene
Beringer
2005 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $27
“This is a big rich wine, made for a steak. At the price, it delivers a lot in terms of value.”
—J. Kosseff
“Wines from that area can easily be up to $230. This one has nice length and a beautiful nose. The mouthfeel is very velvety. It's a great value at $27.” —B. Gillespie
Pelton House
2005 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $45
“This is a new brand from a great vineyard farmed by Jess Jackson's family company. It's made by a Chilean woman, Marcia Monahan, who planted some carmenère on the property to blend in with this cabernet. A vineyard to watch.” —J. Greene
Sweet & Complex
Dr. Loosen
2006 Mosel Riesling Beerenauslese $25
“This is all from Bernkasteler Lay, harvested from early–developing botrytis. Don't be fooled by the price. This is serious BA, made by one of the masters of the style. It could be the greatest value in dessert wine currently on the market.” —P. Liem
“I'd drink it with baked apricot stuffed with mascarpone.” —R. Pierce
“For me, this is like pumpkin, some candied pumpkin dessert. Even a pumpkin soup.” —M. Mendoza
Royal Tokaji Wine Company
2003 Tokaji 5 Puttonyos $39
“Tokaji really have a niche. It's definitely not riesling, definitely not Sauternes. It's its own thing with a unique place on the menu.”
—R. Pierce
“Tokaji used to be considered one of the finest wines in the world; this wine ranks up there, without the price tag to match. It's opulent, with golden apricot, orange, beeswax and smoke flavors, with vibrant acidity that wraps it tightly and will keep this going for at least another twenty years.” —T.Q. Thomas
“I'm getting such a hit of orange. A wine for orange mousse.” —M. Mendoza
Loel
Cyprus Commandaria $12
“It's got a lot of salty, nutty characteristics. This would go well with aged Manchego, and would make a nice aperitif.”
—E. Railsback
“Where else in the world can you find a satin–textured wine laden with figgy fruit, spice and molasses notes for $12? A glass is all you need for dessert, and a little goes a long way.” —T.Q. Thomas
Quinta do Vesuvio
2005 Porto $63
“It tastes really great this young, but I'd keep it for twenty years.” —J. Kosseff
“And it will easily live that long. Vesuvio is only ever made as a single–quinta Port; it's one of the Symington family's best properties.” —J. Greene
“For a young Port like this, pairing it with a Roquefort is perfect. There's a wonderful balance.” —E. Kelley
Croft
2005 Porto Quinta da Roeda $47
“It has a classic profile and needs some age. An excellent value in a Vintage Port. Some of the sweeter wines tend to be more exuberant; this one's a little drier.” —S. Goldun
“The Taylor Fonseca group purchased Roeda in 2001 and the work they've done on the vineyard is beginning to show in this 2005. It's a legendary site, and will likely regain its reputation as a top vineyard in the years to come. Which makes it a great buy at the moment.” —J. Greene
-->
2006 Sonoma County Three Valleys Zinfandel $22
“It’s bright and tasty. I definitely don’t like a lot of zins; usually the color is so dense that you can’t even see through it. Here, the alcohol is low enough. It’s very refreshing for a zinfandel, not at all over the top. It has some carignan, which seems to lighten it up a bit.” —E. Railsback
Frog’s Leap
2006 Napa Valley Zinfandel $27
“A classic claret-style zin—this has a lot of acidity. It’s not jammy. What’s really cool about it is that comes from organic, dry-farmed vineyards, which is significant because Napa’s sort of irrigation-heavy. Zinfandel in particular seems to respond really well to dry farming. The other thing I love about this wine is that it’s 13.5 alcohol, which is less than most cabs, and this is a zin, which is supposed to be big and bad.” —W. Weber
Italian Reds
Librandi
2004 Cirò Duca San Felice Riserva $18
“I like that it’s fairly light in color, and it’s still rustic and hearty—this would go great with lamb with garlic and herbs. The wine can actually stand up to some pretty heavy foods.” —S. Goldun
“I order this almost every time I go to Pizzeria Delfina in San Francisco. We drank Cirò all summer when I lived in Rome, and when I have it here it just takes me back. The acidity and funky, earthy fruit flavors are totally Italian.” —W. Weber
Fattoria La Peschiera
2005 Morellino di Scansano $17
“The ideal combination of dried fruit, grainy tannins, acidity.” —J. Kosseff
“It’s a steal at the price, with all that structure and flavor, you could even lay it down.”
—J. Marvin
“Drink it with steak tagliatta, a rare steak grilled and tossed with salad.” —J. Heber
Melini
2005 Chianti Classico Isassi $15
“I get a lot of rose petal. Maybe dried rose petal. There’s some dried meat in there too…this is a palate wine. It’s delicious.” —R. Clement
“Serve it with duck with cherries.” —M. Mendoza
“Or it’s juicy enough to go with a capicola sandwich.” —R. Pierce
Le Macchiole
2005 Bolgheri Rosso $32
“Surprisingly accessible. I think it’s the best wine I’ve had today. Very New World style. But it’s so plush, so concentrated. I’d serve it with Kobe beef.” —M. Mendoza
“This estate grows one of the best cabernet francs in the world. The Bolgheri Rosso is one-third the price—a selection from the younger merlot and cab franc vines with a little syrah and sangiovese. It’s a way in to one of the great vineyards of Tuscany.”
—J. Greene
Abbazia di Novacella
2006 Alto Adige Lagrein $27
“This lagrein’s got a lot of concentration, but it doesn’t have the typical tough tannins. It has bright cherry fruit, and the acidity feels fresh in your mouth. Just classic.” —E. Railsback
“This has the freshness and the spice of a great red from the Italian Alps. The acidity makes it really versatile. It’s too light for steak, but with that acidity it needs something with a little bit of fat…like a grilled bone-in pork chop.” —W. Weber
Il Roncal
2005 Colli Orientali del Friuli
Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso $22
“The tart, bright cherry fruit makes your mouth pucker. It has a classic earthiness. I think it’s a wine to drink in a year or two, though. Not right away.” —E. Railsback
“I love refosco for its juicy fruitiness and freshness. This has considerable depth yet it doesn’t feel heavy, thanks to a lively balance of acidity and tannin.” —P. Liem
Poderi Luigi Einaudi
2006 Dolcetto di Dogliani $22
“This is a sexy wine. The nose isn’t so hard to figure out, and you just want to taste it.” — J. Kosseff
“Dogliani always has intense, structured dolcettos. This one is a bird wine: game hen, quail.” —J. Heber
Cantina del Pino
2005 Barbera d’Alba $32
“Barbera d’Alba will always be the younger brother of the bigger Piedmontese wines—a wine that speaks to youth and energy. Very primary with fruit while being playful and spicy. With slow-roasted baby back ribs—this would be my Old World alternative to zinfandel this summer.” —N. Daquip
“The acidity in barbera makes it one of my go-to red wines. You can drink it with almost anything. This one also shows a sense of minerality, a firmness and satisfying flavor.” —W. Weber
Damilano
2005 Nebbiolo d’Alba $21
“It’s an amazing wine for the money. The distance between Barolo and Alba is like the distance between Echo Park and Silver Lake, but the grape can still perform, hill to hill.” —R. Clement
“It’s so elegant and balanced. This is the best value of them all.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“It actually smells a little bit like Fernet. No, really, it's like Averna. It's killer.”
—M. Mendoza
Cabernet Family
Snoqualmie
2006 Columbia Valley Merlot $10
“This is a great little wine for ten dollars.” —R. Pierce
“It has some classic Washington merlot elements, a nice red berry lightness and succulent texture. There's a little creamy caramel wood flavor on the finish. It's easy to drink on its own.” —Patrick J. Comiskey
Santa Rita
2006 Rapel Valley Reserva Carmenère $14
“A textbook carmenère, this offers bell peppers and chocolatey flavors surrounded by a mellow, round texture.” —P. Tapia
“The vegetal nose reminds me of cabernet franc. It's a wine for the more adventurous. This brings in different flavors and textures and florals, more than just dark fruit and oak. It would work really well with cassoulet—pork sausage, beef tongue and duck confit.
Morandé
2005 Maipo Valley
Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon $17
“It's not so green that it's over the top and it doesn't have a big fat oak presence. The acidity gives it its brightness.” —E. Railsback
Bodegas Nieto Senetiner
2005 Mendoza Don Nicanor Malbec $17
“My marker for malbec is that it looks like syrah but it tastes like cabernet.” —J. Heber
“This is a voluptuous and ripe example of the grape. It seems it was made for Argentine asado.” —P. Tapia
Caro
2006 Mendoza Amancaya $20
“This really shows its Bordeaux roots, with a great texture.” —J. Kosseff
“This is a joint venture between Catena and Lafite–Rothschild in Bordeaux. Their top wine, “Caro,” is twice as expensive. Amancaya has more malbec in the blend, meant for early drinking.” —J. Greene
“For the price, this is really good, and it's showing better now than the Caro.”
—J. Heber
Tamarack
2006 Columbia Valley Firehouse Red $20
“This is a kitchen–sink blend from great vineyards all over the Columbia Valley—it's routinely one of the state's best bang–for–the–buck reds. The 2006 is juicy and rich, with a healthy slug of chocolatey oak to hold all that fruit together.” —P.J. Comiskey
“It smells like a caramel macchiato. I'd serve this with beef bourguignon.”
—E. Porto Carreiro
Chateau Ste. Michelle
2005 Columbia Valley Indian Wells Cabernet Sauvignon $19
“Foursquare and dark–fruited, this has black cherry and plum flavors grounded by firm tannin.” —P.J. Comiskey
“It fits in with a rib–eye steak.” —R. Clement
Cadence
2006 Columbia Valley Coda $25
“This has a lot of red fruit, like cranberry. It's a perfect prime rib wine. It's delicate and not at all in your face, like a lot of other Washington wines.” —A. Weil
“Ben Smith's wines are elegant and satisfying, and this is a great way to get to know his style.” —W. Weber
Chateau Phélan–Ségur
2004 St–Estèphe $25
“This is a vintage for people who are long on time and short on money.” —A. Weil
“Many of the '04s from St–Estèphe are sort of unforgiving as young wines. This one is easy to drink. It has a clean fruit quality, a lot of complexity, a lot of layers. It needs some cellaring to show off what it's got…a great counter to expensive California cabernets, and a fantastic value for Left Bank Bordeaux.” —S. Goldun
“I finished up some '89 Phélan two years ago, just when it was beginning to fade. Still working on a case of 2000. This 2004 will keep beautifully—one of the more elegant wines from St–Estèphe.” —J. Greene
Beringer
2005 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $27
“This is a big rich wine, made for a steak. At the price, it delivers a lot in terms of value.”
—J. Kosseff
“Wines from that area can easily be up to $230. This one has nice length and a beautiful nose. The mouthfeel is very velvety. It's a great value at $27.” —B. Gillespie
Pelton House
2005 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $45
“This is a new brand from a great vineyard farmed by Jess Jackson's family company. It's made by a Chilean woman, Marcia Monahan, who planted some carmenère on the property to blend in with this cabernet. A vineyard to watch.” —J. Greene
Sweet & Complex
Dr. Loosen
2006 Mosel Riesling Beerenauslese $25
“This is all from Bernkasteler Lay, harvested from early–developing botrytis. Don't be fooled by the price. This is serious BA, made by one of the masters of the style. It could be the greatest value in dessert wine currently on the market.” —P. Liem
“I'd drink it with baked apricot stuffed with mascarpone.” —R. Pierce
“For me, this is like pumpkin, some candied pumpkin dessert. Even a pumpkin soup.” —M. Mendoza
Royal Tokaji Wine Company
2003 Tokaji 5 Puttonyos $39
“Tokaji really have a niche. It's definitely not riesling, definitely not Sauternes. It's its own thing with a unique place on the menu.”
—R. Pierce
“Tokaji used to be considered one of the finest wines in the world; this wine ranks up there, without the price tag to match. It's opulent, with golden apricot, orange, beeswax and smoke flavors, with vibrant acidity that wraps it tightly and will keep this going for at least another twenty years.” —T.Q. Thomas
“I'm getting such a hit of orange. A wine for orange mousse.” —M. Mendoza
Loel
Cyprus Commandaria $12
“It's got a lot of salty, nutty characteristics. This would go well with aged Manchego, and would make a nice aperitif.”
—E. Railsback
“Where else in the world can you find a satin–textured wine laden with figgy fruit, spice and molasses notes for $12? A glass is all you need for dessert, and a little goes a long way.” —T.Q. Thomas
Quinta do Vesuvio
2005 Porto $63
“It tastes really great this young, but I'd keep it for twenty years.” —J. Kosseff
“And it will easily live that long. Vesuvio is only ever made as a single–quinta Port; it's one of the Symington family's best properties.” —J. Greene
“For a young Port like this, pairing it with a Roquefort is perfect. There's a wonderful balance.” —E. Kelley
Croft
2005 Porto Quinta da Roeda $47
“It has a classic profile and needs some age. An excellent value in a Vintage Port. Some of the sweeter wines tend to be more exuberant; this one's a little drier.” —S. Goldun
“The Taylor Fonseca group purchased Roeda in 2001 and the work they've done on the vineyard is beginning to show in this 2005. It's a legendary site, and will likely regain its reputation as a top vineyard in the years to come. Which makes it a great buy at the moment.” —J. Greene
-->
2004 Cirò Duca San Felice Riserva $18
“I like that it’s fairly light in color, and it’s still rustic and hearty—this would go great with lamb with garlic and herbs. The wine can actually stand up to some pretty heavy foods.” —S. Goldun
“I order this almost every time I go to Pizzeria Delfina in San Francisco. We drank Cirò all summer when I lived in Rome, and when I have it here it just takes me back. The acidity and funky, earthy fruit flavors are totally Italian.” —W. Weber
Fattoria La Peschiera
2005 Morellino di Scansano $17
“The ideal combination of dried fruit, grainy tannins, acidity.” —J. Kosseff
“It’s a steal at the price, with all that structure and flavor, you could even lay it down.”
—J. Marvin
“Drink it with steak tagliatta, a rare steak grilled and tossed with salad.” —J. Heber
Melini
2005 Chianti Classico Isassi $15
“I get a lot of rose petal. Maybe dried rose petal. There’s some dried meat in there too…this is a palate wine. It’s delicious.” —R. Clement
“Serve it with duck with cherries.” —M. Mendoza
“Or it’s juicy enough to go with a capicola sandwich.” —R. Pierce
Le Macchiole
2005 Bolgheri Rosso $32
“Surprisingly accessible. I think it’s the best wine I’ve had today. Very New World style. But it’s so plush, so concentrated. I’d serve it with Kobe beef.” —M. Mendoza
“This estate grows one of the best cabernet francs in the world. The Bolgheri Rosso is one-third the price—a selection from the younger merlot and cab franc vines with a little syrah and sangiovese. It’s a way in to one of the great vineyards of Tuscany.”
—J. Greene
Abbazia di Novacella
2006 Alto Adige Lagrein $27
“This lagrein’s got a lot of concentration, but it doesn’t have the typical tough tannins. It has bright cherry fruit, and the acidity feels fresh in your mouth. Just classic.” —E. Railsback
“This has the freshness and the spice of a great red from the Italian Alps. The acidity makes it really versatile. It’s too light for steak, but with that acidity it needs something with a little bit of fat…like a grilled bone-in pork chop.” —W. Weber
Il Roncal
2005 Colli Orientali del Friuli
Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso $22
“The tart, bright cherry fruit makes your mouth pucker. It has a classic earthiness. I think it’s a wine to drink in a year or two, though. Not right away.” —E. Railsback
“I love refosco for its juicy fruitiness and freshness. This has considerable depth yet it doesn’t feel heavy, thanks to a lively balance of acidity and tannin.” —P. Liem
Poderi Luigi Einaudi
2006 Dolcetto di Dogliani $22
“This is a sexy wine. The nose isn’t so hard to figure out, and you just want to taste it.” — J. Kosseff
“Dogliani always has intense, structured dolcettos. This one is a bird wine: game hen, quail.” —J. Heber
Cantina del Pino
2005 Barbera d’Alba $32
“Barbera d’Alba will always be the younger brother of the bigger Piedmontese wines—a wine that speaks to youth and energy. Very primary with fruit while being playful and spicy. With slow-roasted baby back ribs—this would be my Old World alternative to zinfandel this summer.” —N. Daquip
“The acidity in barbera makes it one of my go-to red wines. You can drink it with almost anything. This one also shows a sense of minerality, a firmness and satisfying flavor.” —W. Weber
Damilano
2005 Nebbiolo d’Alba $21
“It’s an amazing wine for the money. The distance between Barolo and Alba is like the distance between Echo Park and Silver Lake, but the grape can still perform, hill to hill.” —R. Clement
“It’s so elegant and balanced. This is the best value of them all.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“It actually smells a little bit like Fernet. No, really, it's like Averna. It's killer.”
—M. Mendoza
Cabernet Family
Snoqualmie
2006 Columbia Valley Merlot $10
“This is a great little wine for ten dollars.” —R. Pierce
“It has some classic Washington merlot elements, a nice red berry lightness and succulent texture. There's a little creamy caramel wood flavor on the finish. It's easy to drink on its own.” —Patrick J. Comiskey
Santa Rita
2006 Rapel Valley Reserva Carmenère $14
“A textbook carmenère, this offers bell peppers and chocolatey flavors surrounded by a mellow, round texture.” —P. Tapia
“The vegetal nose reminds me of cabernet franc. It's a wine for the more adventurous. This brings in different flavors and textures and florals, more than just dark fruit and oak. It would work really well with cassoulet—pork sausage, beef tongue and duck confit.
Morandé
2005 Maipo Valley
Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon $17
“It's not so green that it's over the top and it doesn't have a big fat oak presence. The acidity gives it its brightness.” —E. Railsback
Bodegas Nieto Senetiner
2005 Mendoza Don Nicanor Malbec $17
“My marker for malbec is that it looks like syrah but it tastes like cabernet.” —J. Heber
“This is a voluptuous and ripe example of the grape. It seems it was made for Argentine asado.” —P. Tapia
Caro
2006 Mendoza Amancaya $20
“This really shows its Bordeaux roots, with a great texture.” —J. Kosseff
“This is a joint venture between Catena and Lafite–Rothschild in Bordeaux. Their top wine, “Caro,” is twice as expensive. Amancaya has more malbec in the blend, meant for early drinking.” —J. Greene
“For the price, this is really good, and it's showing better now than the Caro.”
—J. Heber
Tamarack
2006 Columbia Valley Firehouse Red $20
“This is a kitchen–sink blend from great vineyards all over the Columbia Valley—it's routinely one of the state's best bang–for–the–buck reds. The 2006 is juicy and rich, with a healthy slug of chocolatey oak to hold all that fruit together.” —P.J. Comiskey
“It smells like a caramel macchiato. I'd serve this with beef bourguignon.”
—E. Porto Carreiro
Chateau Ste. Michelle
2005 Columbia Valley Indian Wells Cabernet Sauvignon $19
“Foursquare and dark–fruited, this has black cherry and plum flavors grounded by firm tannin.” —P.J. Comiskey
“It fits in with a rib–eye steak.” —R. Clement
Cadence
2006 Columbia Valley Coda $25
“This has a lot of red fruit, like cranberry. It's a perfect prime rib wine. It's delicate and not at all in your face, like a lot of other Washington wines.” —A. Weil
“Ben Smith's wines are elegant and satisfying, and this is a great way to get to know his style.” —W. Weber
Chateau Phélan–Ségur
2004 St–Estèphe $25
“This is a vintage for people who are long on time and short on money.” —A. Weil
“Many of the '04s from St–Estèphe are sort of unforgiving as young wines. This one is easy to drink. It has a clean fruit quality, a lot of complexity, a lot of layers. It needs some cellaring to show off what it's got…a great counter to expensive California cabernets, and a fantastic value for Left Bank Bordeaux.” —S. Goldun
“I finished up some '89 Phélan two years ago, just when it was beginning to fade. Still working on a case of 2000. This 2004 will keep beautifully—one of the more elegant wines from St–Estèphe.” —J. Greene
Beringer
2005 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $27
“This is a big rich wine, made for a steak. At the price, it delivers a lot in terms of value.”
—J. Kosseff
“Wines from that area can easily be up to $230. This one has nice length and a beautiful nose. The mouthfeel is very velvety. It's a great value at $27.” —B. Gillespie
Pelton House
2005 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $45
“This is a new brand from a great vineyard farmed by Jess Jackson's family company. It's made by a Chilean woman, Marcia Monahan, who planted some carmenère on the property to blend in with this cabernet. A vineyard to watch.” —J. Greene
Sweet & Complex
Dr. Loosen
2006 Mosel Riesling Beerenauslese $25
“This is all from Bernkasteler Lay, harvested from early–developing botrytis. Don't be fooled by the price. This is serious BA, made by one of the masters of the style. It could be the greatest value in dessert wine currently on the market.” —P. Liem
“I'd drink it with baked apricot stuffed with mascarpone.” —R. Pierce
“For me, this is like pumpkin, some candied pumpkin dessert. Even a pumpkin soup.” —M. Mendoza
Royal Tokaji Wine Company
2003 Tokaji 5 Puttonyos $39
“Tokaji really have a niche. It's definitely not riesling, definitely not Sauternes. It's its own thing with a unique place on the menu.”
—R. Pierce
“Tokaji used to be considered one of the finest wines in the world; this wine ranks up there, without the price tag to match. It's opulent, with golden apricot, orange, beeswax and smoke flavors, with vibrant acidity that wraps it tightly and will keep this going for at least another twenty years.” —T.Q. Thomas
“I'm getting such a hit of orange. A wine for orange mousse.” —M. Mendoza
Loel
Cyprus Commandaria $12
“It's got a lot of salty, nutty characteristics. This would go well with aged Manchego, and would make a nice aperitif.”
—E. Railsback
“Where else in the world can you find a satin–textured wine laden with figgy fruit, spice and molasses notes for $12? A glass is all you need for dessert, and a little goes a long way.” —T.Q. Thomas
Quinta do Vesuvio
2005 Porto $63
“It tastes really great this young, but I'd keep it for twenty years.” —J. Kosseff
“And it will easily live that long. Vesuvio is only ever made as a single–quinta Port; it's one of the Symington family's best properties.” —J. Greene
“For a young Port like this, pairing it with a Roquefort is perfect. There's a wonderful balance.” —E. Kelley
Croft
2005 Porto Quinta da Roeda $47
“It has a classic profile and needs some age. An excellent value in a Vintage Port. Some of the sweeter wines tend to be more exuberant; this one's a little drier.” —S. Goldun
“The Taylor Fonseca group purchased Roeda in 2001 and the work they've done on the vineyard is beginning to show in this 2005. It's a legendary site, and will likely regain its reputation as a top vineyard in the years to come. Which makes it a great buy at the moment.” —J. Greene
-->
2005 Chianti Classico Isassi $15
“I get a lot of rose petal. Maybe dried rose petal. There’s some dried meat in there too…this is a palate wine. It’s delicious.” —R. Clement
“Serve it with duck with cherries.” —M. Mendoza
“Or it’s juicy enough to go with a capicola sandwich.” —R. Pierce
Le Macchiole
2005 Bolgheri Rosso $32
“Surprisingly accessible. I think it’s the best wine I’ve had today. Very New World style. But it’s so plush, so concentrated. I’d serve it with Kobe beef.” —M. Mendoza
“This estate grows one of the best cabernet francs in the world. The Bolgheri Rosso is one-third the price—a selection from the younger merlot and cab franc vines with a little syrah and sangiovese. It’s a way in to one of the great vineyards of Tuscany.”
—J. Greene
Abbazia di Novacella
2006 Alto Adige Lagrein $27
“This lagrein’s got a lot of concentration, but it doesn’t have the typical tough tannins. It has bright cherry fruit, and the acidity feels fresh in your mouth. Just classic.” —E. Railsback
“This has the freshness and the spice of a great red from the Italian Alps. The acidity makes it really versatile. It’s too light for steak, but with that acidity it needs something with a little bit of fat…like a grilled bone-in pork chop.” —W. Weber
Il Roncal
2005 Colli Orientali del Friuli
Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso $22
“The tart, bright cherry fruit makes your mouth pucker. It has a classic earthiness. I think it’s a wine to drink in a year or two, though. Not right away.” —E. Railsback
“I love refosco for its juicy fruitiness and freshness. This has considerable depth yet it doesn’t feel heavy, thanks to a lively balance of acidity and tannin.” —P. Liem
Poderi Luigi Einaudi
2006 Dolcetto di Dogliani $22
“This is a sexy wine. The nose isn’t so hard to figure out, and you just want to taste it.” — J. Kosseff
“Dogliani always has intense, structured dolcettos. This one is a bird wine: game hen, quail.” —J. Heber
Cantina del Pino
2005 Barbera d’Alba $32
“Barbera d’Alba will always be the younger brother of the bigger Piedmontese wines—a wine that speaks to youth and energy. Very primary with fruit while being playful and spicy. With slow-roasted baby back ribs—this would be my Old World alternative to zinfandel this summer.” —N. Daquip
“The acidity in barbera makes it one of my go-to red wines. You can drink it with almost anything. This one also shows a sense of minerality, a firmness and satisfying flavor.” —W. Weber
Damilano
2005 Nebbiolo d’Alba $21
“It’s an amazing wine for the money. The distance between Barolo and Alba is like the distance between Echo Park and Silver Lake, but the grape can still perform, hill to hill.” —R. Clement
“It’s so elegant and balanced. This is the best value of them all.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“It actually smells a little bit like Fernet. No, really, it's like Averna. It's killer.”
—M. Mendoza
Cabernet Family
Snoqualmie
2006 Columbia Valley Merlot $10
“This is a great little wine for ten dollars.” —R. Pierce
“It has some classic Washington merlot elements, a nice red berry lightness and succulent texture. There's a little creamy caramel wood flavor on the finish. It's easy to drink on its own.” —Patrick J. Comiskey
Santa Rita
2006 Rapel Valley Reserva Carmenère $14
“A textbook carmenère, this offers bell peppers and chocolatey flavors surrounded by a mellow, round texture.” —P. Tapia
“The vegetal nose reminds me of cabernet franc. It's a wine for the more adventurous. This brings in different flavors and textures and florals, more than just dark fruit and oak. It would work really well with cassoulet—pork sausage, beef tongue and duck confit.
Morandé
2005 Maipo Valley
Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon $17
“It's not so green that it's over the top and it doesn't have a big fat oak presence. The acidity gives it its brightness.” —E. Railsback
Bodegas Nieto Senetiner
2005 Mendoza Don Nicanor Malbec $17
“My marker for malbec is that it looks like syrah but it tastes like cabernet.” —J. Heber
“This is a voluptuous and ripe example of the grape. It seems it was made for Argentine asado.” —P. Tapia
Caro
2006 Mendoza Amancaya $20
“This really shows its Bordeaux roots, with a great texture.” —J. Kosseff
“This is a joint venture between Catena and Lafite–Rothschild in Bordeaux. Their top wine, “Caro,” is twice as expensive. Amancaya has more malbec in the blend, meant for early drinking.” —J. Greene
“For the price, this is really good, and it's showing better now than the Caro.”
—J. Heber
Tamarack
2006 Columbia Valley Firehouse Red $20
“This is a kitchen–sink blend from great vineyards all over the Columbia Valley—it's routinely one of the state's best bang–for–the–buck reds. The 2006 is juicy and rich, with a healthy slug of chocolatey oak to hold all that fruit together.” —P.J. Comiskey
“It smells like a caramel macchiato. I'd serve this with beef bourguignon.”
—E. Porto Carreiro
Chateau Ste. Michelle
2005 Columbia Valley Indian Wells Cabernet Sauvignon $19
“Foursquare and dark–fruited, this has black cherry and plum flavors grounded by firm tannin.” —P.J. Comiskey
“It fits in with a rib–eye steak.” —R. Clement
Cadence
2006 Columbia Valley Coda $25
“This has a lot of red fruit, like cranberry. It's a perfect prime rib wine. It's delicate and not at all in your face, like a lot of other Washington wines.” —A. Weil
“Ben Smith's wines are elegant and satisfying, and this is a great way to get to know his style.” —W. Weber
Chateau Phélan–Ségur
2004 St–Estèphe $25
“This is a vintage for people who are long on time and short on money.” —A. Weil
“Many of the '04s from St–Estèphe are sort of unforgiving as young wines. This one is easy to drink. It has a clean fruit quality, a lot of complexity, a lot of layers. It needs some cellaring to show off what it's got…a great counter to expensive California cabernets, and a fantastic value for Left Bank Bordeaux.” —S. Goldun
“I finished up some '89 Phélan two years ago, just when it was beginning to fade. Still working on a case of 2000. This 2004 will keep beautifully—one of the more elegant wines from St–Estèphe.” —J. Greene
Beringer
2005 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $27
“This is a big rich wine, made for a steak. At the price, it delivers a lot in terms of value.”
—J. Kosseff
“Wines from that area can easily be up to $230. This one has nice length and a beautiful nose. The mouthfeel is very velvety. It's a great value at $27.” —B. Gillespie
Pelton House
2005 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $45
“This is a new brand from a great vineyard farmed by Jess Jackson's family company. It's made by a Chilean woman, Marcia Monahan, who planted some carmenère on the property to blend in with this cabernet. A vineyard to watch.” —J. Greene
Sweet & Complex
Dr. Loosen
2006 Mosel Riesling Beerenauslese $25
“This is all from Bernkasteler Lay, harvested from early–developing botrytis. Don't be fooled by the price. This is serious BA, made by one of the masters of the style. It could be the greatest value in dessert wine currently on the market.” —P. Liem
“I'd drink it with baked apricot stuffed with mascarpone.” —R. Pierce
“For me, this is like pumpkin, some candied pumpkin dessert. Even a pumpkin soup.” —M. Mendoza
Royal Tokaji Wine Company
2003 Tokaji 5 Puttonyos $39
“Tokaji really have a niche. It's definitely not riesling, definitely not Sauternes. It's its own thing with a unique place on the menu.”
—R. Pierce
“Tokaji used to be considered one of the finest wines in the world; this wine ranks up there, without the price tag to match. It's opulent, with golden apricot, orange, beeswax and smoke flavors, with vibrant acidity that wraps it tightly and will keep this going for at least another twenty years.” —T.Q. Thomas
“I'm getting such a hit of orange. A wine for orange mousse.” —M. Mendoza
Loel
Cyprus Commandaria $12
“It's got a lot of salty, nutty characteristics. This would go well with aged Manchego, and would make a nice aperitif.”
—E. Railsback
“Where else in the world can you find a satin–textured wine laden with figgy fruit, spice and molasses notes for $12? A glass is all you need for dessert, and a little goes a long way.” —T.Q. Thomas
Quinta do Vesuvio
2005 Porto $63
“It tastes really great this young, but I'd keep it for twenty years.” —J. Kosseff
“And it will easily live that long. Vesuvio is only ever made as a single–quinta Port; it's one of the Symington family's best properties.” —J. Greene
“For a young Port like this, pairing it with a Roquefort is perfect. There's a wonderful balance.” —E. Kelley
Croft
2005 Porto Quinta da Roeda $47
“It has a classic profile and needs some age. An excellent value in a Vintage Port. Some of the sweeter wines tend to be more exuberant; this one's a little drier.” —S. Goldun
“The Taylor Fonseca group purchased Roeda in 2001 and the work they've done on the vineyard is beginning to show in this 2005. It's a legendary site, and will likely regain its reputation as a top vineyard in the years to come. Which makes it a great buy at the moment.” —J. Greene
-->
2006 Alto Adige Lagrein $27
“This lagrein’s got a lot of concentration, but it doesn’t have the typical tough tannins. It has bright cherry fruit, and the acidity feels fresh in your mouth. Just classic.” —E. Railsback
“This has the freshness and the spice of a great red from the Italian Alps. The acidity makes it really versatile. It’s too light for steak, but with that acidity it needs something with a little bit of fat…like a grilled bone-in pork chop.” —W. Weber
Il Roncal
2005 Colli Orientali del Friuli
Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso $22
“The tart, bright cherry fruit makes your mouth pucker. It has a classic earthiness. I think it’s a wine to drink in a year or two, though. Not right away.” —E. Railsback
“I love refosco for its juicy fruitiness and freshness. This has considerable depth yet it doesn’t feel heavy, thanks to a lively balance of acidity and tannin.” —P. Liem
Poderi Luigi Einaudi
2006 Dolcetto di Dogliani $22
“This is a sexy wine. The nose isn’t so hard to figure out, and you just want to taste it.” — J. Kosseff
“Dogliani always has intense, structured dolcettos. This one is a bird wine: game hen, quail.” —J. Heber
Cantina del Pino
2005 Barbera d’Alba $32
“Barbera d’Alba will always be the younger brother of the bigger Piedmontese wines—a wine that speaks to youth and energy. Very primary with fruit while being playful and spicy. With slow-roasted baby back ribs—this would be my Old World alternative to zinfandel this summer.” —N. Daquip
“The acidity in barbera makes it one of my go-to red wines. You can drink it with almost anything. This one also shows a sense of minerality, a firmness and satisfying flavor.” —W. Weber
Damilano
2005 Nebbiolo d’Alba $21
“It’s an amazing wine for the money. The distance between Barolo and Alba is like the distance between Echo Park and Silver Lake, but the grape can still perform, hill to hill.” —R. Clement
“It’s so elegant and balanced. This is the best value of them all.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“It actually smells a little bit like Fernet. No, really, it's like Averna. It's killer.”
—M. Mendoza
Cabernet Family
Snoqualmie
2006 Columbia Valley Merlot $10
“This is a great little wine for ten dollars.” —R. Pierce
“It has some classic Washington merlot elements, a nice red berry lightness and succulent texture. There's a little creamy caramel wood flavor on the finish. It's easy to drink on its own.” —Patrick J. Comiskey
Santa Rita
2006 Rapel Valley Reserva Carmenère $14
“A textbook carmenère, this offers bell peppers and chocolatey flavors surrounded by a mellow, round texture.” —P. Tapia
“The vegetal nose reminds me of cabernet franc. It's a wine for the more adventurous. This brings in different flavors and textures and florals, more than just dark fruit and oak. It would work really well with cassoulet—pork sausage, beef tongue and duck confit.
Morandé
2005 Maipo Valley
Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon $17
“It's not so green that it's over the top and it doesn't have a big fat oak presence. The acidity gives it its brightness.” —E. Railsback
Bodegas Nieto Senetiner
2005 Mendoza Don Nicanor Malbec $17
“My marker for malbec is that it looks like syrah but it tastes like cabernet.” —J. Heber
“This is a voluptuous and ripe example of the grape. It seems it was made for Argentine asado.” —P. Tapia
Caro
2006 Mendoza Amancaya $20
“This really shows its Bordeaux roots, with a great texture.” —J. Kosseff
“This is a joint venture between Catena and Lafite–Rothschild in Bordeaux. Their top wine, “Caro,” is twice as expensive. Amancaya has more malbec in the blend, meant for early drinking.” —J. Greene
“For the price, this is really good, and it's showing better now than the Caro.”
—J. Heber
Tamarack
2006 Columbia Valley Firehouse Red $20
“This is a kitchen–sink blend from great vineyards all over the Columbia Valley—it's routinely one of the state's best bang–for–the–buck reds. The 2006 is juicy and rich, with a healthy slug of chocolatey oak to hold all that fruit together.” —P.J. Comiskey
“It smells like a caramel macchiato. I'd serve this with beef bourguignon.”
—E. Porto Carreiro
Chateau Ste. Michelle
2005 Columbia Valley Indian Wells Cabernet Sauvignon $19
“Foursquare and dark–fruited, this has black cherry and plum flavors grounded by firm tannin.” —P.J. Comiskey
“It fits in with a rib–eye steak.” —R. Clement
Cadence
2006 Columbia Valley Coda $25
“This has a lot of red fruit, like cranberry. It's a perfect prime rib wine. It's delicate and not at all in your face, like a lot of other Washington wines.” —A. Weil
“Ben Smith's wines are elegant and satisfying, and this is a great way to get to know his style.” —W. Weber
Chateau Phélan–Ségur
2004 St–Estèphe $25
“This is a vintage for people who are long on time and short on money.” —A. Weil
“Many of the '04s from St–Estèphe are sort of unforgiving as young wines. This one is easy to drink. It has a clean fruit quality, a lot of complexity, a lot of layers. It needs some cellaring to show off what it's got…a great counter to expensive California cabernets, and a fantastic value for Left Bank Bordeaux.” —S. Goldun
“I finished up some '89 Phélan two years ago, just when it was beginning to fade. Still working on a case of 2000. This 2004 will keep beautifully—one of the more elegant wines from St–Estèphe.” —J. Greene
Beringer
2005 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $27
“This is a big rich wine, made for a steak. At the price, it delivers a lot in terms of value.”
—J. Kosseff
“Wines from that area can easily be up to $230. This one has nice length and a beautiful nose. The mouthfeel is very velvety. It's a great value at $27.” —B. Gillespie
Pelton House
2005 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $45
“This is a new brand from a great vineyard farmed by Jess Jackson's family company. It's made by a Chilean woman, Marcia Monahan, who planted some carmenère on the property to blend in with this cabernet. A vineyard to watch.” —J. Greene
Sweet & Complex
Dr. Loosen
2006 Mosel Riesling Beerenauslese $25
“This is all from Bernkasteler Lay, harvested from early–developing botrytis. Don't be fooled by the price. This is serious BA, made by one of the masters of the style. It could be the greatest value in dessert wine currently on the market.” —P. Liem
“I'd drink it with baked apricot stuffed with mascarpone.” —R. Pierce
“For me, this is like pumpkin, some candied pumpkin dessert. Even a pumpkin soup.” —M. Mendoza
Royal Tokaji Wine Company
2003 Tokaji 5 Puttonyos $39
“Tokaji really have a niche. It's definitely not riesling, definitely not Sauternes. It's its own thing with a unique place on the menu.”
—R. Pierce
“Tokaji used to be considered one of the finest wines in the world; this wine ranks up there, without the price tag to match. It's opulent, with golden apricot, orange, beeswax and smoke flavors, with vibrant acidity that wraps it tightly and will keep this going for at least another twenty years.” —T.Q. Thomas
“I'm getting such a hit of orange. A wine for orange mousse.” —M. Mendoza
Loel
Cyprus Commandaria $12
“It's got a lot of salty, nutty characteristics. This would go well with aged Manchego, and would make a nice aperitif.”
—E. Railsback
“Where else in the world can you find a satin–textured wine laden with figgy fruit, spice and molasses notes for $12? A glass is all you need for dessert, and a little goes a long way.” —T.Q. Thomas
Quinta do Vesuvio
2005 Porto $63
“It tastes really great this young, but I'd keep it for twenty years.” —J. Kosseff
“And it will easily live that long. Vesuvio is only ever made as a single–quinta Port; it's one of the Symington family's best properties.” —J. Greene
“For a young Port like this, pairing it with a Roquefort is perfect. There's a wonderful balance.” —E. Kelley
Croft
2005 Porto Quinta da Roeda $47
“It has a classic profile and needs some age. An excellent value in a Vintage Port. Some of the sweeter wines tend to be more exuberant; this one's a little drier.” —S. Goldun
“The Taylor Fonseca group purchased Roeda in 2001 and the work they've done on the vineyard is beginning to show in this 2005. It's a legendary site, and will likely regain its reputation as a top vineyard in the years to come. Which makes it a great buy at the moment.” —J. Greene
-->
2006 Dolcetto di Dogliani $22
“This is a sexy wine. The nose isn’t so hard to figure out, and you just want to taste it.” — J. Kosseff
“Dogliani always has intense, structured dolcettos. This one is a bird wine: game hen, quail.” —J. Heber
Cantina del Pino
2005 Barbera d’Alba $32
“Barbera d’Alba will always be the younger brother of the bigger Piedmontese wines—a wine that speaks to youth and energy. Very primary with fruit while being playful and spicy. With slow-roasted baby back ribs—this would be my Old World alternative to zinfandel this summer.” —N. Daquip
“The acidity in barbera makes it one of my go-to red wines. You can drink it with almost anything. This one also shows a sense of minerality, a firmness and satisfying flavor.” —W. Weber
Damilano
2005 Nebbiolo d’Alba $21
“It’s an amazing wine for the money. The distance between Barolo and Alba is like the distance between Echo Park and Silver Lake, but the grape can still perform, hill to hill.” —R. Clement
“It’s so elegant and balanced. This is the best value of them all.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“It actually smells a little bit like Fernet. No, really, it's like Averna. It's killer.”
—M. Mendoza
Cabernet Family
Snoqualmie
2006 Columbia Valley Merlot $10
“This is a great little wine for ten dollars.” —R. Pierce
“It has some classic Washington merlot elements, a nice red berry lightness and succulent texture. There's a little creamy caramel wood flavor on the finish. It's easy to drink on its own.” —Patrick J. Comiskey
Santa Rita
2006 Rapel Valley Reserva Carmenère $14
“A textbook carmenère, this offers bell peppers and chocolatey flavors surrounded by a mellow, round texture.” —P. Tapia
“The vegetal nose reminds me of cabernet franc. It's a wine for the more adventurous. This brings in different flavors and textures and florals, more than just dark fruit and oak. It would work really well with cassoulet—pork sausage, beef tongue and duck confit.
Morandé
2005 Maipo Valley
Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon $17
“It's not so green that it's over the top and it doesn't have a big fat oak presence. The acidity gives it its brightness.” —E. Railsback
Bodegas Nieto Senetiner
2005 Mendoza Don Nicanor Malbec $17
“My marker for malbec is that it looks like syrah but it tastes like cabernet.” —J. Heber
“This is a voluptuous and ripe example of the grape. It seems it was made for Argentine asado.” —P. Tapia
Caro
2006 Mendoza Amancaya $20
“This really shows its Bordeaux roots, with a great texture.” —J. Kosseff
“This is a joint venture between Catena and Lafite–Rothschild in Bordeaux. Their top wine, “Caro,” is twice as expensive. Amancaya has more malbec in the blend, meant for early drinking.” —J. Greene
“For the price, this is really good, and it's showing better now than the Caro.”
—J. Heber
Tamarack
2006 Columbia Valley Firehouse Red $20
“This is a kitchen–sink blend from great vineyards all over the Columbia Valley—it's routinely one of the state's best bang–for–the–buck reds. The 2006 is juicy and rich, with a healthy slug of chocolatey oak to hold all that fruit together.” —P.J. Comiskey
“It smells like a caramel macchiato. I'd serve this with beef bourguignon.”
—E. Porto Carreiro
Chateau Ste. Michelle
2005 Columbia Valley Indian Wells Cabernet Sauvignon $19
“Foursquare and dark–fruited, this has black cherry and plum flavors grounded by firm tannin.” —P.J. Comiskey
“It fits in with a rib–eye steak.” —R. Clement
Cadence
2006 Columbia Valley Coda $25
“This has a lot of red fruit, like cranberry. It's a perfect prime rib wine. It's delicate and not at all in your face, like a lot of other Washington wines.” —A. Weil
“Ben Smith's wines are elegant and satisfying, and this is a great way to get to know his style.” —W. Weber
Chateau Phélan–Ségur
2004 St–Estèphe $25
“This is a vintage for people who are long on time and short on money.” —A. Weil
“Many of the '04s from St–Estèphe are sort of unforgiving as young wines. This one is easy to drink. It has a clean fruit quality, a lot of complexity, a lot of layers. It needs some cellaring to show off what it's got…a great counter to expensive California cabernets, and a fantastic value for Left Bank Bordeaux.” —S. Goldun
“I finished up some '89 Phélan two years ago, just when it was beginning to fade. Still working on a case of 2000. This 2004 will keep beautifully—one of the more elegant wines from St–Estèphe.” —J. Greene
Beringer
2005 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $27
“This is a big rich wine, made for a steak. At the price, it delivers a lot in terms of value.”
—J. Kosseff
“Wines from that area can easily be up to $230. This one has nice length and a beautiful nose. The mouthfeel is very velvety. It's a great value at $27.” —B. Gillespie
Pelton House
2005 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $45
“This is a new brand from a great vineyard farmed by Jess Jackson's family company. It's made by a Chilean woman, Marcia Monahan, who planted some carmenère on the property to blend in with this cabernet. A vineyard to watch.” —J. Greene
Sweet & Complex
Dr. Loosen
2006 Mosel Riesling Beerenauslese $25
“This is all from Bernkasteler Lay, harvested from early–developing botrytis. Don't be fooled by the price. This is serious BA, made by one of the masters of the style. It could be the greatest value in dessert wine currently on the market.” —P. Liem
“I'd drink it with baked apricot stuffed with mascarpone.” —R. Pierce
“For me, this is like pumpkin, some candied pumpkin dessert. Even a pumpkin soup.” —M. Mendoza
Royal Tokaji Wine Company
2003 Tokaji 5 Puttonyos $39
“Tokaji really have a niche. It's definitely not riesling, definitely not Sauternes. It's its own thing with a unique place on the menu.”
—R. Pierce
“Tokaji used to be considered one of the finest wines in the world; this wine ranks up there, without the price tag to match. It's opulent, with golden apricot, orange, beeswax and smoke flavors, with vibrant acidity that wraps it tightly and will keep this going for at least another twenty years.” —T.Q. Thomas
“I'm getting such a hit of orange. A wine for orange mousse.” —M. Mendoza
Loel
Cyprus Commandaria $12
“It's got a lot of salty, nutty characteristics. This would go well with aged Manchego, and would make a nice aperitif.”
—E. Railsback
“Where else in the world can you find a satin–textured wine laden with figgy fruit, spice and molasses notes for $12? A glass is all you need for dessert, and a little goes a long way.” —T.Q. Thomas
Quinta do Vesuvio
2005 Porto $63
“It tastes really great this young, but I'd keep it for twenty years.” —J. Kosseff
“And it will easily live that long. Vesuvio is only ever made as a single–quinta Port; it's one of the Symington family's best properties.” —J. Greene
“For a young Port like this, pairing it with a Roquefort is perfect. There's a wonderful balance.” —E. Kelley
Croft
2005 Porto Quinta da Roeda $47
“It has a classic profile and needs some age. An excellent value in a Vintage Port. Some of the sweeter wines tend to be more exuberant; this one's a little drier.” —S. Goldun
“The Taylor Fonseca group purchased Roeda in 2001 and the work they've done on the vineyard is beginning to show in this 2005. It's a legendary site, and will likely regain its reputation as a top vineyard in the years to come. Which makes it a great buy at the moment.” —J. Greene
-->
2005 Nebbiolo d’Alba $21
“It’s an amazing wine for the money. The distance between Barolo and Alba is like the distance between Echo Park and Silver Lake, but the grape can still perform, hill to hill.” —R. Clement
“It’s so elegant and balanced. This is the best value of them all.” —E. Porto Carreiro
“It actually smells a little bit like Fernet. No, really, it's like Averna. It's killer.” —M. Mendoza
Cabernet Family
Snoqualmie
2006 Columbia Valley Merlot $10
“This is a great little wine for ten dollars.” —R. Pierce
“It has some classic Washington merlot elements, a nice red berry lightness and succulent texture. There's a little creamy caramel wood flavor on the finish. It's easy to drink on its own.” —Patrick J. Comiskey
Santa Rita
2006 Rapel Valley Reserva Carmenère $14
“A textbook carmenère, this offers bell peppers and chocolatey flavors surrounded by a mellow, round texture.” —P. Tapia
“The vegetal nose reminds me of cabernet franc. It's a wine for the more adventurous. This brings in different flavors and textures and florals, more than just dark fruit and oak. It would work really well with cassoulet—pork sausage, beef tongue and duck confit.
Morandé
2005 Maipo Valley
Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon $17
“It's not so green that it's over the top and it doesn't have a big fat oak presence. The acidity gives it its brightness.” —E. Railsback
Bodegas Nieto Senetiner
2005 Mendoza Don Nicanor Malbec $17
“My marker for malbec is that it looks like syrah but it tastes like cabernet.” —J. Heber
“This is a voluptuous and ripe example of the grape. It seems it was made for Argentine asado.” —P. Tapia
Caro
2006 Mendoza Amancaya $20
“This really shows its Bordeaux roots, with a great texture.” —J. Kosseff
“This is a joint venture between Catena and Lafite–Rothschild in Bordeaux. Their top wine, “Caro,” is twice as expensive. Amancaya has more malbec in the blend, meant for early drinking.” —J. Greene
“For the price, this is really good, and it's showing better now than the Caro.”
—J. Heber
Tamarack
2006 Columbia Valley Firehouse Red $20
“This is a kitchen–sink blend from great vineyards all over the Columbia Valley—it's routinely one of the state's best bang–for–the–buck reds. The 2006 is juicy and rich, with a healthy slug of chocolatey oak to hold all that fruit together.” —P.J. Comiskey
“It smells like a caramel macchiato. I'd serve this with beef bourguignon.”
—E. Porto Carreiro
Chateau Ste. Michelle
2005 Columbia Valley Indian Wells Cabernet Sauvignon $19
“Foursquare and dark–fruited, this has black cherry and plum flavors grounded by firm tannin.” —P.J. Comiskey
“It fits in with a rib–eye steak.” —R. Clement
Cadence
2006 Columbia Valley Coda $25
“This has a lot of red fruit, like cranberry. It's a perfect prime rib wine. It's delicate and not at all in your face, like a lot of other Washington wines.” —A. Weil
“Ben Smith's wines are elegant and satisfying, and this is a great way to get to know his style.” —W. Weber
Chateau Phélan–Ségur
2004 St–Estèphe $25
“This is a vintage for people who are long on time and short on money.” —A. Weil
“Many of the '04s from St–Estèphe are sort of unforgiving as young wines. This one is easy to drink. It has a clean fruit quality, a lot of complexity, a lot of layers. It needs some cellaring to show off what it's got…a great counter to expensive California cabernets, and a fantastic value for Left Bank Bordeaux.” —S. Goldun
“I finished up some '89 Phélan two years ago, just when it was beginning to fade. Still working on a case of 2000. This 2004 will keep beautifully—one of the more elegant wines from St–Estèphe.” —J. Greene
Beringer
2005 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $27
“This is a big rich wine, made for a steak. At the price, it delivers a lot in terms of value.”
—J. Kosseff
“Wines from that area can easily be up to $230. This one has nice length and a beautiful nose. The mouthfeel is very velvety. It's a great value at $27.” —B. Gillespie
Pelton House
2005 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $45
“This is a new brand from a great vineyard farmed by Jess Jackson's family company. It's made by a Chilean woman, Marcia Monahan, who planted some carmenère on the property to blend in with this cabernet. A vineyard to watch.” —J. Greene
Sweet & Complex
Dr. Loosen
2006 Mosel Riesling Beerenauslese $25
“This is all from Bernkasteler Lay, harvested from early–developing botrytis. Don't be fooled by the price. This is serious BA, made by one of the masters of the style. It could be the greatest value in dessert wine currently on the market.” —P. Liem
“I'd drink it with baked apricot stuffed with mascarpone.” —R. Pierce
“For me, this is like pumpkin, some candied pumpkin dessert. Even a pumpkin soup.” —M. Mendoza
Royal Tokaji Wine Company
2003 Tokaji 5 Puttonyos $39
“Tokaji really have a niche. It's definitely not riesling, definitely not Sauternes. It's its own thing with a unique place on the menu.”
—R. Pierce
“Tokaji used to be considered one of the finest wines in the world; this wine ranks up there, without the price tag to match. It's opulent, with golden apricot, orange, beeswax and smoke flavors, with vibrant acidity that wraps it tightly and will keep this going for at least another twenty years.” —T.Q. Thomas
“I'm getting such a hit of orange. A wine for orange mousse.” —M. Mendoza
Loel
Cyprus Commandaria $12
“It's got a lot of salty, nutty characteristics. This would go well with aged Manchego, and would make a nice aperitif.”
—E. Railsback
“Where else in the world can you find a satin–textured wine laden with figgy fruit, spice and molasses notes for $12? A glass is all you need for dessert, and a little goes a long way.” —T.Q. Thomas
Quinta do Vesuvio
2005 Porto $63
“It tastes really great this young, but I'd keep it for twenty years.” —J. Kosseff
“And it will easily live that long. Vesuvio is only ever made as a single–quinta Port; it's one of the Symington family's best properties.” —J. Greene
“For a young Port like this, pairing it with a Roquefort is perfect. There's a wonderful balance.” —E. Kelley
Croft
2005 Porto Quinta da Roeda $47
“It has a classic profile and needs some age. An excellent value in a Vintage Port. Some of the sweeter wines tend to be more exuberant; this one's a little drier.” —S. Goldun
“The Taylor Fonseca group purchased Roeda in 2001 and the work they've done on the vineyard is beginning to show in this 2005. It's a legendary site, and will likely regain its reputation as a top vineyard in the years to come. Which makes it a great buy at the moment.” —J. Greene
-->
2006 Rapel Valley Reserva Carmenère $14
“A textbook carmenère, this offers bell peppers and chocolatey flavors surrounded by a mellow, round texture.” —P. Tapia
“The vegetal nose reminds me of cabernet franc. It's a wine for the more adventurous. This brings in different flavors and textures and florals, more than just dark fruit and oak. It would work really well with cassoulet—pork sausage, beef tongue and duck confit.
Morandé
2005 Maipo Valley
Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon $17
“It's not so green that it's over the top and it doesn't have a big fat oak presence. The acidity gives it its brightness.” —E. Railsback
Bodegas Nieto Senetiner
2005 Mendoza Don Nicanor Malbec $17
“My marker for malbec is that it looks like syrah but it tastes like cabernet.” —J. Heber
“This is a voluptuous and ripe example of the grape. It seems it was made for Argentine asado.” —P. Tapia
Caro
2006 Mendoza Amancaya $20
“This really shows its Bordeaux roots, with a great texture.” —J. Kosseff
“This is a joint venture between Catena and Lafite–Rothschild in Bordeaux. Their top wine, “Caro,” is twice as expensive. Amancaya has more malbec in the blend, meant for early drinking.” —J. Greene
“For the price, this is really good, and it's showing better now than the Caro.”
—J. Heber
Tamarack
2006 Columbia Valley Firehouse Red $20
“This is a kitchen–sink blend from great vineyards all over the Columbia Valley—it's routinely one of the state's best bang–for–the–buck reds. The 2006 is juicy and rich, with a healthy slug of chocolatey oak to hold all that fruit together.” —P.J. Comiskey
“It smells like a caramel macchiato. I'd serve this with beef bourguignon.”
—E. Porto Carreiro
Chateau Ste. Michelle
2005 Columbia Valley Indian Wells Cabernet Sauvignon $19
“Foursquare and dark–fruited, this has black cherry and plum flavors grounded by firm tannin.” —P.J. Comiskey
“It fits in with a rib–eye steak.” —R. Clement
Cadence
2006 Columbia Valley Coda $25
“This has a lot of red fruit, like cranberry. It's a perfect prime rib wine. It's delicate and not at all in your face, like a lot of other Washington wines.” —A. Weil
“Ben Smith's wines are elegant and satisfying, and this is a great way to get to know his style.” —W. Weber
Chateau Phélan–Ségur
2004 St–Estèphe $25
“This is a vintage for people who are long on time and short on money.” —A. Weil
“Many of the '04s from St–Estèphe are sort of unforgiving as young wines. This one is easy to drink. It has a clean fruit quality, a lot of complexity, a lot of layers. It needs some cellaring to show off what it's got…a great counter to expensive California cabernets, and a fantastic value for Left Bank Bordeaux.” —S. Goldun
“I finished up some '89 Phélan two years ago, just when it was beginning to fade. Still working on a case of 2000. This 2004 will keep beautifully—one of the more elegant wines from St–Estèphe.” —J. Greene
Beringer
2005 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $27
“This is a big rich wine, made for a steak. At the price, it delivers a lot in terms of value.”
—J. Kosseff
“Wines from that area can easily be up to $230. This one has nice length and a beautiful nose. The mouthfeel is very velvety. It's a great value at $27.” —B. Gillespie
Pelton House
2005 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $45
“This is a new brand from a great vineyard farmed by Jess Jackson's family company. It's made by a Chilean woman, Marcia Monahan, who planted some carmenère on the property to blend in with this cabernet. A vineyard to watch.” —J. Greene
Sweet & Complex
Dr. Loosen
2006 Mosel Riesling Beerenauslese $25
“This is all from Bernkasteler Lay, harvested from early–developing botrytis. Don't be fooled by the price. This is serious BA, made by one of the masters of the style. It could be the greatest value in dessert wine currently on the market.” —P. Liem
“I'd drink it with baked apricot stuffed with mascarpone.” —R. Pierce
“For me, this is like pumpkin, some candied pumpkin dessert. Even a pumpkin soup.” —M. Mendoza
Royal Tokaji Wine Company
2003 Tokaji 5 Puttonyos $39
“Tokaji really have a niche. It's definitely not riesling, definitely not Sauternes. It's its own thing with a unique place on the menu.”
—R. Pierce
“Tokaji used to be considered one of the finest wines in the world; this wine ranks up there, without the price tag to match. It's opulent, with golden apricot, orange, beeswax and smoke flavors, with vibrant acidity that wraps it tightly and will keep this going for at least another twenty years.” —T.Q. Thomas
“I'm getting such a hit of orange. A wine for orange mousse.” —M. Mendoza
Loel
Cyprus Commandaria $12
“It's got a lot of salty, nutty characteristics. This would go well with aged Manchego, and would make a nice aperitif.”
—E. Railsback
“Where else in the world can you find a satin–textured wine laden with figgy fruit, spice and molasses notes for $12? A glass is all you need for dessert, and a little goes a long way.” —T.Q. Thomas
Quinta do Vesuvio
2005 Porto $63
“It tastes really great this young, but I'd keep it for twenty years.” —J. Kosseff
“And it will easily live that long. Vesuvio is only ever made as a single–quinta Port; it's one of the Symington family's best properties.” —J. Greene
“For a young Port like this, pairing it with a Roquefort is perfect. There's a wonderful balance.” —E. Kelley
Croft
2005 Porto Quinta da Roeda $47
“It has a classic profile and needs some age. An excellent value in a Vintage Port. Some of the sweeter wines tend to be more exuberant; this one's a little drier.” —S. Goldun
“The Taylor Fonseca group purchased Roeda in 2001 and the work they've done on the vineyard is beginning to show in this 2005. It's a legendary site, and will likely regain its reputation as a top vineyard in the years to come. Which makes it a great buy at the moment.” —J. Greene
-->
Caro
2006 Mendoza Amancaya $20
“This really shows its Bordeaux roots, with a great texture.” —J. Kosseff
“This is a joint venture between Catena and Lafite–Rothschild in Bordeaux. Their top wine, “Caro,” is twice as expensive. Amancaya has more malbec in the blend, meant for early drinking.” —J. Greene
“For the price, this is really good, and it's showing better now than the Caro.”
—J. Heber
Tamarack
2006 Columbia Valley Firehouse Red $20
“This is a kitchen–sink blend from great vineyards all over the Columbia Valley—it's routinely one of the state's best bang–for–the–buck reds. The 2006 is juicy and rich, with a healthy slug of chocolatey oak to hold all that fruit together.” —P.J. Comiskey
“It smells like a caramel macchiato. I'd serve this with beef bourguignon.”
—E. Porto Carreiro
Chateau Ste. Michelle
2005 Columbia Valley Indian Wells Cabernet Sauvignon $19
“Foursquare and dark–fruited, this has black cherry and plum flavors grounded by firm tannin.” —P.J. Comiskey
“It fits in with a rib–eye steak.” —R. Clement
Cadence
2006 Columbia Valley Coda $25
“This has a lot of red fruit, like cranberry. It's a perfect prime rib wine. It's delicate and not at all in your face, like a lot of other Washington wines.” —A. Weil
“Ben Smith's wines are elegant and satisfying, and this is a great way to get to know his style.” —W. Weber
Chateau Phélan–Ségur
2004 St–Estèphe $25
“This is a vintage for people who are long on time and short on money.” —A. Weil
“Many of the '04s from St–Estèphe are sort of unforgiving as young wines. This one is easy to drink. It has a clean fruit quality, a lot of complexity, a lot of layers. It needs some cellaring to show off what it's got…a great counter to expensive California cabernets, and a fantastic value for Left Bank Bordeaux.” —S. Goldun
“I finished up some '89 Phélan two years ago, just when it was beginning to fade. Still working on a case of 2000. This 2004 will keep beautifully—one of the more elegant wines from St–Estèphe.” —J. Greene
Beringer
2005 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $27
“This is a big rich wine, made for a steak. At the price, it delivers a lot in terms of value.”
—J. Kosseff
“Wines from that area can easily be up to $230. This one has nice length and a beautiful nose. The mouthfeel is very velvety. It's a great value at $27.” —B. Gillespie
Pelton House
2005 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $45
“This is a new brand from a great vineyard farmed by Jess Jackson's family company. It's made by a Chilean woman, Marcia Monahan, who planted some carmenère on the property to blend in with this cabernet. A vineyard to watch.” —J. Greene
Sweet & Complex
Dr. Loosen
2006 Mosel Riesling Beerenauslese $25
“This is all from Bernkasteler Lay, harvested from early–developing botrytis. Don't be fooled by the price. This is serious BA, made by one of the masters of the style. It could be the greatest value in dessert wine currently on the market.” —P. Liem
“I'd drink it with baked apricot stuffed with mascarpone.” —R. Pierce
“For me, this is like pumpkin, some candied pumpkin dessert. Even a pumpkin soup.” —M. Mendoza
Royal Tokaji Wine Company
2003 Tokaji 5 Puttonyos $39
“Tokaji really have a niche. It's definitely not riesling, definitely not Sauternes. It's its own thing with a unique place on the menu.”
—R. Pierce
“Tokaji used to be considered one of the finest wines in the world; this wine ranks up there, without the price tag to match. It's opulent, with golden apricot, orange, beeswax and smoke flavors, with vibrant acidity that wraps it tightly and will keep this going for at least another twenty years.” —T.Q. Thomas
“I'm getting such a hit of orange. A wine for orange mousse.” —M. Mendoza
Loel
Cyprus Commandaria $12
“It's got a lot of salty, nutty characteristics. This would go well with aged Manchego, and would make a nice aperitif.”
—E. Railsback
“Where else in the world can you find a satin–textured wine laden with figgy fruit, spice and molasses notes for $12? A glass is all you need for dessert, and a little goes a long way.” —T.Q. Thomas
Quinta do Vesuvio
2005 Porto $63
“It tastes really great this young, but I'd keep it for twenty years.” —J. Kosseff
“And it will easily live that long. Vesuvio is only ever made as a single–quinta Port; it's one of the Symington family's best properties.” —J. Greene
“For a young Port like this, pairing it with a Roquefort is perfect. There's a wonderful balance.” —E. Kelley
Croft
2005 Porto Quinta da Roeda $47
“It has a classic profile and needs some age. An excellent value in a Vintage Port. Some of the sweeter wines tend to be more exuberant; this one's a little drier.” —S. Goldun
“The Taylor Fonseca group purchased Roeda in 2001 and the work they've done on the vineyard is beginning to show in this 2005. It's a legendary site, and will likely regain its reputation as a top vineyard in the years to come. Which makes it a great buy at the moment.” —J. Greene
-->
2006 Columbia Valley Firehouse Red $20
“This is a kitchen–sink blend from great vineyards all over the Columbia Valley—it's routinely one of the state's best bang–for–the–buck reds. The 2006 is juicy and rich, with a healthy slug of chocolatey oak to hold all that fruit together.” —P.J. Comiskey
“It smells like a caramel macchiato. I'd serve this with beef bourguignon.” —E. Porto Carreiro
Chateau Ste. Michelle
2005 Columbia Valley Indian Wells Cabernet Sauvignon $19
“Foursquare and dark–fruited, this has black cherry and plum flavors grounded by firm tannin.” —P.J. Comiskey
“It fits in with a rib–eye steak.” —R. Clement
Cadence
2006 Columbia Valley Coda $25
“This has a lot of red fruit, like cranberry. It's a perfect prime rib wine. It's delicate and not at all in your face, like a lot of other Washington wines.” —A. Weil
“Ben Smith's wines are elegant and satisfying, and this is a great way to get to know his style.” —W. Weber
Chateau Phélan–Ségur
2004 St–Estèphe $25
“This is a vintage for people who are long on time and short on money.” —A. Weil
“Many of the '04s from St–Estèphe are sort of unforgiving as young wines. This one is easy to drink. It has a clean fruit quality, a lot of complexity, a lot of layers. It needs some cellaring to show off what it's got…a great counter to expensive California cabernets, and a fantastic value for Left Bank Bordeaux.” —S. Goldun
“I finished up some '89 Phélan two years ago, just when it was beginning to fade. Still working on a case of 2000. This 2004 will keep beautifully—one of the more elegant wines from St–Estèphe.” —J. Greene
Beringer
2005 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $27
“This is a big rich wine, made for a steak. At the price, it delivers a lot in terms of value.”
—J. Kosseff
“Wines from that area can easily be up to $230. This one has nice length and a beautiful nose. The mouthfeel is very velvety. It's a great value at $27.” —B. Gillespie
Pelton House
2005 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $45
“This is a new brand from a great vineyard farmed by Jess Jackson's family company. It's made by a Chilean woman, Marcia Monahan, who planted some carmenère on the property to blend in with this cabernet. A vineyard to watch.” —J. Greene
Sweet & Complex
Dr. Loosen
2006 Mosel Riesling Beerenauslese $25
“This is all from Bernkasteler Lay, harvested from early–developing botrytis. Don't be fooled by the price. This is serious BA, made by one of the masters of the style. It could be the greatest value in dessert wine currently on the market.” —P. Liem
“I'd drink it with baked apricot stuffed with mascarpone.” —R. Pierce
“For me, this is like pumpkin, some candied pumpkin dessert. Even a pumpkin soup.” —M. Mendoza
Royal Tokaji Wine Company
2003 Tokaji 5 Puttonyos $39
“Tokaji really have a niche. It's definitely not riesling, definitely not Sauternes. It's its own thing with a unique place on the menu.”
—R. Pierce
“Tokaji used to be considered one of the finest wines in the world; this wine ranks up there, without the price tag to match. It's opulent, with golden apricot, orange, beeswax and smoke flavors, with vibrant acidity that wraps it tightly and will keep this going for at least another twenty years.” —T.Q. Thomas
“I'm getting such a hit of orange. A wine for orange mousse.” —M. Mendoza
Loel
Cyprus Commandaria $12
“It's got a lot of salty, nutty characteristics. This would go well with aged Manchego, and would make a nice aperitif.”
—E. Railsback
“Where else in the world can you find a satin–textured wine laden with figgy fruit, spice and molasses notes for $12? A glass is all you need for dessert, and a little goes a long way.” —T.Q. Thomas
Quinta do Vesuvio
2005 Porto $63
“It tastes really great this young, but I'd keep it for twenty years.” —J. Kosseff
“And it will easily live that long. Vesuvio is only ever made as a single–quinta Port; it's one of the Symington family's best properties.” —J. Greene
“For a young Port like this, pairing it with a Roquefort is perfect. There's a wonderful balance.” —E. Kelley
Croft
2005 Porto Quinta da Roeda $47
“It has a classic profile and needs some age. An excellent value in a Vintage Port. Some of the sweeter wines tend to be more exuberant; this one's a little drier.” —S. Goldun
“The Taylor Fonseca group purchased Roeda in 2001 and the work they've done on the vineyard is beginning to show in this 2005. It's a legendary site, and will likely regain its reputation as a top vineyard in the years to come. Which makes it a great buy at the moment.” —J. Greene
-->
2006 Columbia Valley Coda $25
“This has a lot of red fruit, like cranberry. It's a perfect prime rib wine. It's delicate and not at all in your face, like a lot of other Washington wines.” —A. Weil
“Ben Smith's wines are elegant and satisfying, and this is a great way to get to know his style.” —W. Weber
Chateau Phélan–Ségur
2004 St–Estèphe $25
“This is a vintage for people who are long on time and short on money.” —A. Weil
“Many of the '04s from St–Estèphe are sort of unforgiving as young wines. This one is easy to drink. It has a clean fruit quality, a lot of complexity, a lot of layers. It needs some cellaring to show off what it's got…a great counter to expensive California cabernets, and a fantastic value for Left Bank Bordeaux.” —S. Goldun
“I finished up some '89 Phélan two years ago, just when it was beginning to fade. Still working on a case of 2000. This 2004 will keep beautifully—one of the more elegant wines from St–Estèphe.” —J. Greene
Beringer
2005 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $27
“This is a big rich wine, made for a steak. At the price, it delivers a lot in terms of value.”
—J. Kosseff
“Wines from that area can easily be up to $230. This one has nice length and a beautiful nose. The mouthfeel is very velvety. It's a great value at $27.” —B. Gillespie
Pelton House
2005 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $45
“This is a new brand from a great vineyard farmed by Jess Jackson's family company. It's made by a Chilean woman, Marcia Monahan, who planted some carmenère on the property to blend in with this cabernet. A vineyard to watch.” —J. Greene
Sweet & Complex
Dr. Loosen
2006 Mosel Riesling Beerenauslese $25
“This is all from Bernkasteler Lay, harvested from early–developing botrytis. Don't be fooled by the price. This is serious BA, made by one of the masters of the style. It could be the greatest value in dessert wine currently on the market.” —P. Liem
“I'd drink it with baked apricot stuffed with mascarpone.” —R. Pierce
“For me, this is like pumpkin, some candied pumpkin dessert. Even a pumpkin soup.” —M. Mendoza
Royal Tokaji Wine Company
2003 Tokaji 5 Puttonyos $39
“Tokaji really have a niche. It's definitely not riesling, definitely not Sauternes. It's its own thing with a unique place on the menu.”
—R. Pierce
“Tokaji used to be considered one of the finest wines in the world; this wine ranks up there, without the price tag to match. It's opulent, with golden apricot, orange, beeswax and smoke flavors, with vibrant acidity that wraps it tightly and will keep this going for at least another twenty years.” —T.Q. Thomas
“I'm getting such a hit of orange. A wine for orange mousse.” —M. Mendoza
Loel
Cyprus Commandaria $12
“It's got a lot of salty, nutty characteristics. This would go well with aged Manchego, and would make a nice aperitif.”
—E. Railsback
“Where else in the world can you find a satin–textured wine laden with figgy fruit, spice and molasses notes for $12? A glass is all you need for dessert, and a little goes a long way.” —T.Q. Thomas
Quinta do Vesuvio
2005 Porto $63
“It tastes really great this young, but I'd keep it for twenty years.” —J. Kosseff
“And it will easily live that long. Vesuvio is only ever made as a single–quinta Port; it's one of the Symington family's best properties.” —J. Greene
“For a young Port like this, pairing it with a Roquefort is perfect. There's a wonderful balance.” —E. Kelley
Croft
2005 Porto Quinta da Roeda $47
“It has a classic profile and needs some age. An excellent value in a Vintage Port. Some of the sweeter wines tend to be more exuberant; this one's a little drier.” —S. Goldun
“The Taylor Fonseca group purchased Roeda in 2001 and the work they've done on the vineyard is beginning to show in this 2005. It's a legendary site, and will likely regain its reputation as a top vineyard in the years to come. Which makes it a great buy at the moment.” —J. Greene
-->
2005 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $27
“This is a big rich wine, made for a steak. At the price, it delivers a lot in terms of value.” —J. Kosseff
“Wines from that area can easily be up to $230. This one has nice length and a beautiful nose. The mouthfeel is very velvety. It's a great value at $27.” —B. Gillespie
Pelton House
2005 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $45
“This is a new brand from a great vineyard farmed by Jess Jackson's family company. It's made by a Chilean woman, Marcia Monahan, who planted some carmenère on the property to blend in with this cabernet. A vineyard to watch.” —J. Greene
Sweet & Complex
Dr. Loosen
2006 Mosel Riesling Beerenauslese $25
“This is all from Bernkasteler Lay, harvested from early–developing botrytis. Don't be fooled by the price. This is serious BA, made by one of the masters of the style. It could be the greatest value in dessert wine currently on the market.” —P. Liem
“I'd drink it with baked apricot stuffed with mascarpone.” —R. Pierce
“For me, this is like pumpkin, some candied pumpkin dessert. Even a pumpkin soup.” —M. Mendoza
Royal Tokaji Wine Company
2003 Tokaji 5 Puttonyos $39
“Tokaji really have a niche. It's definitely not riesling, definitely not Sauternes. It's its own thing with a unique place on the menu.”
—R. Pierce
“Tokaji used to be considered one of the finest wines in the world; this wine ranks up there, without the price tag to match. It's opulent, with golden apricot, orange, beeswax and smoke flavors, with vibrant acidity that wraps it tightly and will keep this going for at least another twenty years.” —T.Q. Thomas
“I'm getting such a hit of orange. A wine for orange mousse.” —M. Mendoza
Loel
Cyprus Commandaria $12
“It's got a lot of salty, nutty characteristics. This would go well with aged Manchego, and would make a nice aperitif.”
—E. Railsback
“Where else in the world can you find a satin–textured wine laden with figgy fruit, spice and molasses notes for $12? A glass is all you need for dessert, and a little goes a long way.” —T.Q. Thomas
Quinta do Vesuvio
2005 Porto $63
“It tastes really great this young, but I'd keep it for twenty years.” —J. Kosseff
“And it will easily live that long. Vesuvio is only ever made as a single–quinta Port; it's one of the Symington family's best properties.” —J. Greene
“For a young Port like this, pairing it with a Roquefort is perfect. There's a wonderful balance.” —E. Kelley
Croft
2005 Porto Quinta da Roeda $47
“It has a classic profile and needs some age. An excellent value in a Vintage Port. Some of the sweeter wines tend to be more exuberant; this one's a little drier.” —S. Goldun
“The Taylor Fonseca group purchased Roeda in 2001 and the work they've done on the vineyard is beginning to show in this 2005. It's a legendary site, and will likely regain its reputation as a top vineyard in the years to come. Which makes it a great buy at the moment.” —J. Greene
-->
2006 Mosel Riesling Beerenauslese $25
“This is all from Bernkasteler Lay, harvested from early–developing botrytis. Don't be fooled by the price. This is serious BA, made by one of the masters of the style. It could be the greatest value in dessert wine currently on the market.” —P. Liem
“I'd drink it with baked apricot stuffed with mascarpone.” —R. Pierce
“For me, this is like pumpkin, some candied pumpkin dessert. Even a pumpkin soup.” —M. Mendoza
Royal Tokaji Wine Company
2003 Tokaji 5 Puttonyos $39
“Tokaji really have a niche. It's definitely not riesling, definitely not Sauternes. It's its own thing with a unique place on the menu.”
—R. Pierce
“Tokaji used to be considered one of the finest wines in the world; this wine ranks up there, without the price tag to match. It's opulent, with golden apricot, orange, beeswax and smoke flavors, with vibrant acidity that wraps it tightly and will keep this going for at least another twenty years.” —T.Q. Thomas
“I'm getting such a hit of orange. A wine for orange mousse.” —M. Mendoza
Loel
Cyprus Commandaria $12
“It's got a lot of salty, nutty characteristics. This would go well with aged Manchego, and would make a nice aperitif.”
—E. Railsback
“Where else in the world can you find a satin–textured wine laden with figgy fruit, spice and molasses notes for $12? A glass is all you need for dessert, and a little goes a long way.” —T.Q. Thomas
Quinta do Vesuvio
2005 Porto $63
“It tastes really great this young, but I'd keep it for twenty years.” —J. Kosseff
“And it will easily live that long. Vesuvio is only ever made as a single–quinta Port; it's one of the Symington family's best properties.” —J. Greene
“For a young Port like this, pairing it with a Roquefort is perfect. There's a wonderful balance.” —E. Kelley
Croft
2005 Porto Quinta da Roeda $47
“It has a classic profile and needs some age. An excellent value in a Vintage Port. Some of the sweeter wines tend to be more exuberant; this one's a little drier.” —S. Goldun
“The Taylor Fonseca group purchased Roeda in 2001 and the work they've done on the vineyard is beginning to show in this 2005. It's a legendary site, and will likely regain its reputation as a top vineyard in the years to come. Which makes it a great buy at the moment.” —J. Greene
-->
Cyprus Commandaria $12
“It's got a lot of salty, nutty characteristics. This would go well with aged Manchego, and would make a nice aperitif.” —E. Railsback
“Where else in the world can you find a satin–textured wine laden with figgy fruit, spice and molasses notes for $12? A glass is all you need for dessert, and a little goes a long way.” —T.Q. Thomas
Quinta do Vesuvio
2005 Porto $63
“It tastes really great this young, but I'd keep it for twenty years.” —J. Kosseff
“And it will easily live that long. Vesuvio is only ever made as a single–quinta Port; it's one of the Symington family's best properties.” —J. Greene
“For a young Port like this, pairing it with a Roquefort is perfect. There's a wonderful balance.” —E. Kelley
Croft
2005 Porto Quinta da Roeda $47
“It has a classic profile and needs some age. An excellent value in a Vintage Port. Some of the sweeter wines tend to be more exuberant; this one's a little drier.” —S. Goldun
“The Taylor Fonseca group purchased Roeda in 2001 and the work they've done on the vineyard is beginning to show in this 2005. It's a legendary site, and will likely regain its reputation as a top vineyard in the years to come. Which makes it a great buy at the moment.” —J. Greene
-->
2005 Porto Quinta da Roeda $47
“It has a classic profile and needs some age. An excellent value in a Vintage Port. Some of the sweeter wines tend to be more exuberant; this one's a little drier.” —S. Goldun
“The Taylor Fonseca group purchased Roeda in 2001 and the work they've done on the vineyard is beginning to show in this 2005. It's a legendary site, and will likely regain its reputation as a top vineyard in the years to come. Which makes it a great buy at the moment.” —J. Greene -->
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