Photo by Stacy Zarin Goldberg
In a room of wrought iron, slabs of reclaimed wood and Spanish tiles, Chef Haidar Karoum and wine
director Sebastian Zutant have transformed this corner of Logan Circle into Spain. Stop in for
pintxos such as a fava bean and almond spread and a glass of Txacoli—or, better yet, sercial
Madeira; order bocadillos of spicy lamb and grilled vegetables on house-baked bread to go with
the brooding Anima Negra from Mallorca. The wine list is a lesson in top Spanish names from all
corners of the country, from López de Heredía in Rioja to Juan Gil in Jumilla and Licinia in
Madrid. But don't overlook the cocktails: Bar manager Adam Bernbach has a restrained hand and
keen palate that results in food-friendly drinks like the Adonis (dry Oloroso, sweet vermouth
and bitters) or the Tecolate, a blend of Tequila and Cava scented with rosemary and grapefruit.
—Margaret Shakespeare
Estadio, 1520 14th Street NW, Washington, DC; 202-319-1404,
estadio-dc.com (reviewed W&S, 10/11)
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Detour around the neighborhood crowd in The Passenger and slip through a side door into the candlelit Columbia Room. Created by mixologist Derek Brown (a W&S Best New Sommelier in 2007), the 16-seat room is part performance space, part lab for Brown's obsessive experiments with fine spirits and hand-shaved ice. Sit at the low-set bar to watch him at work; the cost of the evening includes a glass of Champagne to start followed by two custom-made drinks. The first drink comes with a small dish: One recent evening an earthy Tequila laced with gentian matched a chilled corn and poblano soup. The second drink comes with truffle butter popcorn, and can be whatever you fancy: a bespoke drink or a classic such as the Martinez, forerunner of the Martini, and signature drink of the house. Thursday, Friday and Saturday only; reservations a must.
—Margaret Shakespeare
The Columbia Room (within The Passenger), 1021 7th Street NW, Washington, DC; 202-393-0220,
passengerdc.com/Columbia
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Enology
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The District was more than a few wine bars behind most major cities until recently. Adam Manson has opened two of the best new spots, first the romantic Veritas, and Enology, where he's authored an exclusively American wine list. Headliners zinfandel and cabernet command a flight apiece, but Manson and GM Chris Cunningham also showcase niche grape interests through flights like "Dare to be Different" (mondeuse, graciano, tempranillo) and glass pours such as Robert Foley's Charbono and Dr. Konstantin Frank's Rkatsiteli.
—Christine Leddy
Enology Wine Bar, 3238 Wisconsin Ave., NW, Washington, DC; 202-362-0362,
enologydc.com
(reviewed W&S 4/09)
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Dino
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Dino showcases Italy in small bites-crostini, cicchetti, salumi and artisan cheeses. Bigger appetite? Dig into lusty lasagnette al rag, bracioli or a whole roast fish. But don't lift a fork without reading the wine list. Owner Dean Gold's passion for Italian wines is clear in his descriptions of each bottle. It's also evident in the low markups, and the fact that many choices are available by the half-pour.
—Margaret Shakespeare
3435 Connecticut Ave., Washington, DC; 202-686-2966
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Proof
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With the opening of the Verizon Center, the Penn Quarter district could easily have gone into sports bar overtime, but it did the unexpected, building DC's hottest dining zone. And if wine is your game, Proof is where you want to be. The 1,400-plus cellar is packed with first-growth Bordeaux, California cabernet icons and cult wines like Sine Qua Non. The by-the-glass list is just as exciting: This is where wine director Sebastian Zutant indulges his irreverent, avant-garde side, trading in crowd pleasers for outsiders like a Lebanese white blend and a Txakolina from Basque Country. Just when they become faves of Proof's fans, though, Zutant sends out a new first line.
—Christine Leddy
Proof, 775 G St., NW, Washington, DC; 202-737-7663,
proofdc.com (reviewed W&S 10/09)
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Vino Volo
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Vino Volo makes a layover at Dulles far less painful than usual with 30 rotating wines by the glass that run $6 to $14. In Concourse C, the shiny new lounge offers a comfortable place to sit and enjoy a glass of wine or a flight of three tastes; the store also sells bottles to carry on board or ship. The Dulles store is the first of a planned five to seven stores to open in airports across the US this year.
—T.Q.T.
Vino Volo, Washington Dulles Int'l. Airport, Concourse C, Gate C4, Washington, DC; 800-961-VINO
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