The Cosmopolitan, Las Vegas’ latest gee-whiz casino resort, is full of star chef destinations, but chef Scott Conant’s deceptively simple brick-walled enoteca may be the most welcome arrival. Here, italian antipasti and assaggini are true small tastes—not just pared-down entrees—expressing more care and quality than their prices would hint, and the chewy, just-charred Napoli-style pizzas are easily the best on the Strip. The wine list—upwards of 300 labels by the bottle and another 18 available by the quarter, half or full bottle—are entirely Italian, from sparkling wines through dessert (a first for Vegas), with plenty of unusual picks for a mid-afternoon glass with some salumi or a dinner of maccheroni with polpettine.—E.C. Gladstone

—Gladstone

D.O.C.G. Enoteca, The Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas, 3708 Las Vegas Blvd. S., Las Vegas; 702-698-7100, cosmopolitanlasvegas.com (reviewed W&S, 4/11)