Cocoliquot draws patrons to its sleek space with the promise of affordable, exciting and fine wine and French food. Co-owner Brian Haltinner put together 50 wines by the glass, primarily Old World, which top out at $10; bottles max at $40. Notables include an Anjou-Villages from Ogereau, the Château d'Epire Savenni¸res and a Petite Arvine from Favre in Switzerland. With so much to choose from, pairing wines with chef and partner Jeff Orr's small plates-delectable classics such as rillettes, brandade and house-made charcuterie-is inherently easy.

—Kate Bast

Cocoliquot, 225 King St., Madison, WI; 608-255-2626;