Flight, on the former Glenview Naval Air Base, brings not only wine flights to this suburban Chicago neighborhood but food flights as well. What better accompaniment to a trio of tartars than wine steward Adam Bloom's "spicy whites" flight of gewurztraminers - Thomas Fogarty and Gundlach-Bundschu from California, and Domaine Weinbach from Alsace? Or check out "smoky reds," which matches up a Ben Marco Malbec from Argentina with a Veramonte Cabernet/Carmenère from the other side of the Andes and a Hacienda Monasterio Ribera del Duero from Spain - terrific with tiny New Zealand lamb chops done three ways.

—Laura Levy Shatkin

Flight Wine Bar and Restaurant,1820 Tower Dr., Glenview, IL; 847-729-9463