O Château, a wine tasting salon run by Olivier Magny, a former sommelier at the Hôtel de Crillon, has moved from a cramped, one-room cave to the 17th century Hôtel Dupin, a grand space of vaulted ceilings and thick stone walls in the center of Paris. Here, behind a beautiful granite bar, Magny showcases 40 wines by the glass, with pours such as a Gevrey-Chambertin by Denis Mortet and a 1985 Pétrus. O Château isn’t a full-service restaurant, but with a bottle list offering over 500 labels and a menu that ranges from classic charcuterie and cheese plates to soups, sandwiches and desserts, it’s easy to make a night of it.

—Tim Eustis

O Château, 68 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau, 1er Arr., Paris; (33) 01.44.739.780, o-chateau.com (reviewed W&S, 8/11)