CITYSCENE
Denver
> Williams & Graham

The latest bar to serve up its spin on speakeasy chic, Williams & Graham lurks behind a nondescript door in the back of a bookstore dedicated to all things booze. Located in Denver’s LoHi neighborhood, it’s a cozy, dimly lit vintage-meets-goth room where owner and head barkeep Sean Kenyon and his genuinely charming bartenders serve up an array of cocktails. Local hooch, including Leopold Bros, Stranahan’s and Spring 44, features prominently in drinks like the South Park and the Vodkatini; additions from orgeat to Bloody Mary mix are made in-house. We’re hooked on the Smoking Frenchman, a mezcal-kissed concoction that quenches the thirst brought on by the spicy, caramel-Marsala popcorn. A solid, compact menu, including an 11 pm to 1 am “third shift” board of three egg-based sandwiches, means you never have to drink on an empty stomach.
—Kendra Anderson

Williams & Graham, 3160 Tejon St.; Denver, 303-997-8886, williamsandgraham.com (reviewed W&S, 04/12)



> Osteria Marco

With a menu as Italy-centric as its wine list and chef-owner, Frank Bonanno, Osteria Marco delivers wood-oven pizzas and house-made salumi to go with with juice from Friuli to Sicily. Behind Osteria's basement doors, opened in late fall 2007, Piedmont and Tuscany are well represented, but it's the smaller hits from points south (Moletteri's aglianico from Irpinia; Santadi's Rocca Rubis from Sardinia) that set this list apart. The best thing? No bottle on offer costs more than $70.
—Tucker Shaw

1450 Larimer; 303-534-5855; osteriamarco.com
(reviewed W&S 4/08)



> Table 6

Table 6 puts the buzz back into the space once filled by neighborhood favorite Beehive. Chef Aaron Whitcomb works to strike a balance between bar food and the foamed and fruit-jus'd dishes he made at Adega, the town's most ambitious restaurant, coming up with dishes like a Cobb salad that trades chicken for fried oysters, or a fork-tender beef brisket banked against Maytag blue cheese-infused mash. The wine list is also imaginative, with selections like a New York riesling from Dr. Konstantin Frank and a Sicilian nero d'avola from Morgante. Best of all, selections are priced modestly - bottles generally run $20 to $40, glasses $5 to $7.
—Tara Q. Thomas


Table 6, 609 Corona St., Denver, CO; 303-831-8800