CITYSCENE
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Dali Wine Bar & Cellar
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At Dali, the staff will open any selection on their ever-changing list if guests agree to purchase at least two glasses of a bottle. It's the sort of deal that makes ordering, say, a crisp Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc or a lush-with-cherry Penner-Ash Pinot Noir both a treat and a relative bargain. The idea came from owner Paul Pinnell, former manager of Nana's, one of Dallas's great wine destinations, and wine director Rudy Mikula, an alum of New York's Per Se; both are fervent about reasonable pricing, an attitude they extend to the retail and online stores. But Dali is not all about wine. Joel Harloff's chardonnay-steamed scallops with orange butter veer into fine dining territory, especially paired with a glass of Domaine Matrot Meursault.
—Bill Addison
Dali Wine Bar & Cellar, 1722 Routh St.,
Dallas; 468-385-9360;
daliwinebar.com
(reviewed W&S 10/08)
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York Street
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York Street brings a new meaning to "Texas café." In chef Sharon Hage's renovated cafe, the accent remains on small and friendly, with servers who call all 30-some of you "honey" and provide everything you could need (including a cool glass of sherry and a warm bowl of almonds just after you sit down, gratis). But the food is not just soulful - it's refined and sublime. Start with a bowl of coco bean soup, a nugget of foie gras melted in for extra silky depth; take a second first of bacon-dressed salad just to get a wedge of light-as-air cornbread. The list of mains is short but quality, with Jamison lamb from Pennsylvania, pork from Niman Ranch, as well as local game. To drink, Mark LaRocca will guide you through what is arguably Dallas's most interesting wine list, a single page of picks that wanders the back roads of the wine world for delicious quaffs at prices that fit the cafe vibe.
—Tara Q. Thomas
York Street, 6047 Lewis St., Dallas, TX; 214-826-0968.
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